#leftwall

[neko-jen]

There is a clock, hung on the left wall.

Its hands are stuck.

[ Dark room - Installation, 2010 ]

[theunusualworldofrockclimbing]

Today I had an epic day climbing some of the classic routes at the Cromlech. I started the day by leading Cenotaph corner which I found long and sustained. It felt to me like there were two crux sections. There was loads of opportunity for gear placements which made the climb a safe one for me to jump on. There were plenty of rests if you bridged out and saved energy. I was pretty wrecked at the top breathing deeply and thankful there was no more climbing! Psyched to have led it clean with no rests or falls. Jez then led left wall and I seconded it. One of the best pitches I have ever climbed. I definitely want to come back and lead it some day when I am feeling stronger. Protection seemed to be superb but I felt pretty pumped taking it out so I imagine it was hard work putting it in! I then led Cemetery Gates which we did in two parts and Jez did the top grim jim which I had done last year. Although this route is a little polished I don't think it affects the grade or the enjoyment of it. Didn't really have to do any jamming just used the big jugs. As if all that climbing wasn't enough I then went climbing in the evening with Fred and Ruth at Carreg Wastad called Overhanging Chimney VS. Fred did the first pitch where it was quite tricky to navigate the start of the climb and although rated the hardest pitch seemed fairly simple climbing just crap gear placement opportunities. The best pitch was the second pitch that Ruth led with an overhanging awkward chimney. Ruth climbed it to the right which seemed to be the best way to tackle it. Then my pitch was the final pitch which was quite straightforward.