the zambian cities series: livingstone — the city that was zambia before zambia existed
the beginning: before zambia was zambia, there was a crossing point on the zambezi. the old drift — a few kilometres above the falls — was where people crossed: first by dugout canoe, then by iron boat pulled by eight lozi paddlers, then by steel-cabled barge. by around 1897, a small british colonial outpost had grown up there — the first municipality in what would become zambia. mosquitoes ended that experiment. malaria killed enough settlers that the europeans moved to higher ground, and as that settlement grew into a town it took a name: livingstone.
the explorer: david livingstone reached the falls on 16 november 1855 — the first european to see mosi-oa-tunya from the zambian bank, shown there by local chiefs. what he did was document them for a european audience. the victoria falls railway bridge, completed in 1905, placed livingstone at the crossing point of one of colonial africa's most ambitious infrastructure projects.
the capital years (1907-1935): livingstone was the capital of northern rhodesia. of all the towns in northern rhodesia, colonial livingstone took on the most markedly british character — edwardian buildings lining the main street, deep racial segregation. in 1935, the capital moved to lusaka — closer to the copperbelt's economic heartland. but livingstone did not collapse. timber, hides, tobacco, and cotton continued. and the tourist trade became the city's new identity.
the independence era: zimbabwe's post-independence instability from the late 1990s onward was, paradoxically, good for livingstone — visitors who might have chosen zimbabwe's side of the falls began choosing zambia's. a genuine revival followed: new lodges along the zambezi, bungee jumping from the victoria falls bridge, white-water rafting, helicopter and microlight operators.
livingstone today: 177,393 people (2022 census). the livingstone museum — the oldest and largest in zambia — holding five galleries including the david livingstone memorabilia collection donated by the livingstone family.
livingstone is the only city in zambia retaining a non-african colonial name unchanged since independence — because kenneth kaunda, whose father was educated by the scottish missionaries who followed livingstone's footsteps, chose to leave it. the city carries an explorer's name across an independence he never lived to see.
the zambian cities series continues. 🇿🇲🏙