An Introduction to the Lyngen Alps
The Lyngen Alps in Northern Norway have been on my bucket list for a long time. They first caught my attention in a Warren Miller film segment. The idea of skiing to the sea above the Arctic Circle seemed nothing short of awesome and like something I had to do in my lifetime. Beyond the scenic beauty, I liked that skiing there involved boats and required human power. Helis and cats allow you to access unreal terrain but ski touring is its own unique reward and better for the environment.
To mark my 50th year, I decided to make it happen with a group of longtime ski buddies. Some of whom were also celebrating the same milestone. I was spurred on after a conversation with a friend on a trip to Valdez with Alaska Backcountry Guides, two years ago. She told me about Lyngen Lodge, a boutique lodge about a 2 1/2-hour drive north of Tromsø. She was considering it herself.
There are lots of guides and programs that operate in the Lyngen region. Many people decide to do the trip on a boat, which adds to the adventure factor but also means less comfort. In contrast, Lyngen Lodge is the only high-end lodge of its type in the area. The views, accommodations, amenities, food, and staff are world-class. To get to the ski zones you go out the backdoor, take a quick van drive, or use their power boat, which is excellent. The mountain access is incredible. Everywhere, I mean everywhere you look, there are hero lines and tours. The options are endless.
Check out the Lyngen Alps on the FatMap app or the book The Lyngen Alps: Skiing, Climbing/Trekking. You’ll get a good sense of what’s out there.
We arrived in Norway on April 20th for a 9-day trip, which included 6 days of skiing. I found my travel logistics to be the easiest among our group since I came directly from New York City. I booked a flight with SAS from Newark to Oslo and then made the 2-hour connecting flight to Tromsø. The time difference from New York is 6 hours. I found getting here to be affordable and relatively simple as far as international travel goes. Some members of our group rented a car, while others opted for the van transfer provided by Lyngen Lodge. a couple of members of our group rented a car while the rest opted for the van transfer provided by Lyngen Lodge.
When you arrive in Tromsø, you’re immediately greeted by epic terrain all around you. While the mountains in view are not as big as Alaska, "it has serious Valdez vibes," as one friend put it. There are good tours as close as 15-30 minutes away. A lot of people decide to base camp in the city for that reason. I understand why pro skier and Norrona athlete Nikolai Schirmer calls this area home. It's a badass adventure town. At lunch, I saw two people paragliding over the harbor. There's a Norrona shop in the mall and a good store called City to Summit if you need to pick up any gear, bars, or gels.
Lyngen Lodge is in the town of Djuvik, a small fishing village, northeast of Tromsø, that was occupied by the Nazis in World War II. 3,000 Germans built a base at the edge of the harbor. Only ruins remain but you can see the ominous ramparts as you pass by the harbor on boat. There are salmon fisheries in the area and the region has also long supplied Europe and the rest of the world with dried cod. You'll see a lot of fish hanging out to dry. Something I had never seen or smelled before.
We stayed on the property after our ski days, opting for sauna sessions and cold plunges in the Fjord, but there's some sightseeing to do if that's what you're into.
The British owner and former Austrian ski guide, Graham, found the idyllic spot while on a ski tour. Not every room has a view, but I was lucky. I had both postcard Fjord and mountain vistas right out my window. When we were there, it never got dark. So, I recommend bringing an eye mask. Because of the light this time of year, you're also not likely to see the Northern Lights.
Regarding the ski touring itself, Lyngen Lodge doesn't cater to extreme backcountry skiers. They’re open and direct about this. They ask that you bring ski crampons, which you will need unless you're an uphill ace, but not ice axes or boot crampons. Couloir skiing is not on the menu even though they surround you. Similar to my experience at CMH, their approach is on the more conservative side. It's a perfect setup for people who have solid ski touring experience, want long scenic runs below 38 degrees in steepness and an amazing lodge experience, and are in very good shape. You do about 3,000-4,500 feet a day.
Our Austrian UIAGM-certified guide was knowledgeable and a great skier. We passed our fitness, skills, and safety test on day one, and he got us on to some fun and steep faces on 3 of our 6 ski days. One of which I'd put on par with Alaska or BC in terms of aggressiveness. But I would have preferred more. I like a good dose of adrenaline and fear on my adventure vacations.
There are three guides at the lodge for a total of 16 people. At Lyngen each group gets one guide. In Alaska, you typically have both a lead and tail guide. You want that for more gnarly terrain. It gives you a lot more options as well as improves safety. We asked for the extra guide and were willing to pay for it but were told no. Again, this is just not the program at Lyngen Lodge. Their concept is more scenic and laidback.
That said, the trip was a success and a fantastic introductory and exploratory mission to what may be the Mecca of ski touring. The weather was perfect. We had no down days, which can happen given the skiing is mostly above treeline in the alpine.
Not all of us got to explore Tromsø, but there's a Polar Museum there. As it turns out, the city was established as the “Gateway to the Arctic” in the late 1800s. There are a lot of research vessels in the harbor. Oslo is a beautiful and interesting city. The Opera House and Munch Museum are iconic, must-see destinations. In 1940, Munch donated all of his work to the municipality of Oslo. The volume of his artwork on display is staggering. To put it in perspective, the museum is 10 stories tall.
Another thing to admire is Norway’s commitment to climate and sustainability. I knew that 80% of the country’s cars were EVs, but I didn’t know that heli-skiing was off-limits. Helis are amazing machines, but if they were allowed, it would be a very different environment. There’s something special in just how untouched so much of this land is. Norway puts the wild in the wilderness. I’ll be back to explore the Lyngen Alps for sure.
In terms of Lyngen Lodge, I recommend it for everyone besides backcountry skiers looking for couloirs and 38 degrees plus consistently. It’s a 5-star and unforgettable experience in one of the most gorgeous places in the world.
