Silverton Mountain - A Backcountry Rite of Passage
Silverton is serious. Located in a remote part of the San Juan Mountains, it’s close to 7 of Colorado’s 53 fourteeners. The mountains are big and steep. They make the Front Range look like foothills. Navigating the tight switchbacks over Red Mountain Pass on the way into town for the first time makes even someone comfortable with heights pay attention, particularly if you’re driving at night in snow. There are fast passing trucks, no guard rails, and it’s a long way down.
But the extreme terrain isn’t the only draw. Silverton is a unique place. The town was established in 1873, after the Utes ceded it, or more accurately, were pushed from the land. Many of the original buildings still exist, its mining roots still visible. The last mine shut in 1992. A trip here is a journey back in time. While there’s a boutique hotel in town, The Wyman, there’s nothing fancy about Silverton. It’s a rugged, adventure town, and not for everyone. On the Silverton Mountain website, they advertise it as “all thrills no frills.” That’s no lie.
Alaska is often referred to as the “North Shore of skiing.” It’s where the top skiers and riders go to test their limits, scare themselves, and get a good adrenaline rush. Silverton is an experience in that mold and a good introduction to big mountain backcountry.
I made my first trip in 2009, with two good friends, John Winsor and Alex Bogusky. Having been in Colorado since the early 80s, John was a mountain goat. Alex and I were both East Coasters and relatively new to big mountain backcountry. I grew up in New England and primarily skied in Vermont and Quebec. Alex was originally from Miami, and learned to ski on trips to Colorado.
Like many East Coast skiers, I could ski fast and hold an edge. I moved to Boulder in 2006, and got hooked on backcountry, touring with John, Alex, and Mike Alkaitis, who also happened to be an AMGA-certified guide, in Rocky Mountain National Park. I also spent many a weekend testing my nerve and skills in the East Vail Chutes, Vail’s notoriously consequential sidecountry, and on the East Wall of Arapahoe Basin.
After a few seasons living in Colorado, it felt like the right time to step things up. At that point, I didn’t feel ready for Alaska, but I remember reading a New York Times article about Silverton. The first line of the article read, “CHANCES are you’re not good enough to ski Silverton Mountain - or to ski it with grace, anyway.” That was all the encouragement I needed.
I found exactly what I was looking for and then some. Jagged peaks, open bowls, steep couloirs, cliffs, tight trees, adventurous ridge walks, and a terrific guide, Fabio Grasso, now Silverton’s head of snow safety. Not only did it challenge my ability, it tested my fitness level. With only one chairlift, most of Silverton is accessed by human power. The hikes range from 5 minutes to an hour. The mountain tops out at 13,487 feet. Depending on your group’s speed and ability level, you can expect to get 4 to 6 laps. There tends to be 8 people per group with a single guide. Each run you ski all the way down to the road and are picked up in an old beat up school bus. The runs are long. Up to 3,000 vertical feet, and there’s no easy way down.
A lot of people work a helicopter drop into the day. In addition to the single chairlift, it’s one of Silverton’s differentiating features. It gives your legs a break and is an adventure in itself. But even with two helicopter drops, I remember being completely worked afterwards. This is not a trip you can just roll into without a workout plan. But as exhausted as I was, I was equally exhilarated. The experience changed me. It took my adrenaline addiction to new heights, gave me more confidence, and opened my eyes to the wonder of big mountain backcountry skiing. It sparked a love affair that’s perhaps even stronger today.
Two seasons ago, I returned for my first visit in 12 years, having since then opted for trips to British Columbia and Alaska. This time I wasn’t just in Silverton for the endorphin rush. I was there to do some good in support of SOS Outreach, a non-profit that gives young people in underserved mountain communities access to mentorship and leadership opportunities.
We were staying at the historic Grand Imperial Hotel, which dates back to 1883, for a weekend of brainstorming, community building, and skiing at Silverton Mountain and touring around Red Mountain Pass with the San Juan Mountain Guides. I was joined by two longtime ski buddies, Tod Francis, an SOS board member, and Dustin Robertson, a fellow marketing consultant.
Dustin and I rolled into town a day early, grabbed a burrito and coffee at the Coffee Bear, and then headed up to the mountain. It was MLK weekend. Conditions were thin by Silverton standards. It meant that we needed to walk far for the goods. Early in the day, we made a long hike up to what’s called the “Billboard.” The exact sort of hike that gives Silverton its reputation. It’s roped and the final pitch is basically a vertical climb. To give you perspective, we had a special forces officer in our group. This was his first time at Silverton. He could handle the terrain but was visibly anxious on the climb. Once on top he told us, “I jump out of airplanes at night with night goggles. This was scarier.” Even the bravest of us get a little gripped up there.
So, is Silverton as challenging as the hype makes it out to be? Well, no, if you’re sending the gnarliest lines at Jackson, Snowbird, Arapahoe Basin, Crested Butte, or Big Sky. Or if you’re already going big in the backcountry or taking trips to British Columbia, Alaska, Norway, or the Alps. It’s also not without its annoyances. If you get stuck in a bad group, your day can be rough. They do a pretty good job of matching people to others with similar ability levels, but people lie. Dustin and I skied with a couple of mogul rippers from Park City, but it’s best to show up with as many friends as you can. I also recommend going later in the season. March or April is when the snow is best. The snowpack is also safer and more stable. You’re likely to get access to more challenging zones. I also suggest skipping the helicopter unless they can guarantee access to the very biggest lines you cannot hike to.
Silverton is a stop adventurous expert skiers and snowboarders should make at least once. Particularly, if you’re just getting into the backcountry, are up for earning your turns, and enjoy spartan and remote mountain experiences. It’s a place unlike any other. My time there gave me the courage to pursue even greater objectives.
