#m.tut

[kailjoi]

Hey, I made the tutorial video. Please check it out :)

[ironslung]

yo, i was tagged by @01degree​, @realstraykids​, and @banghans​ to show my gif making process! thank you so much guys, this was super dope to do! i just ended up making a new set to do this lmfao... i couldn’t be bothered to recreate an old gif but anyway!

obviously, it depends on the set, how many gifs there are, on my computer and how its running, on the colouring and how it has to be varied, etc.- but for this 1 gif, it took about 5~ minutes (not counting vs time) so for 4 gifs it’s probably around 20 minutes and then maybe an extra bit for vs so overall my giffing process takes me about 30~ minutes when i’m being fast (that’s so sad.. im just so slow..... rip....) but yeah;; also?? idk if my giffing style is weird or wrong or whatever but hfaowijeoai i learned it from my friend like a while ago and idk all of u do it so differently im shook lmfaooo... (sidenote, i rarely change my vs settings which is why i don’t really use the processor window anymore... my settings only really change when i’m giffing stages and even then... its really not that much.)

if you’re going to take anything away from watching these videos that gifmakers are creating, then let it be the fact that we all spend time to create this content and we all put in a lot of hard work as you can see... appreciate your local gif maker and just remember to support their work.

anyway!!! thank you for watching and being kind and supporting my gifs whenever i post! i really appreciate! i’ll tag: @kimseungs, @hanjisungz, @3noracha​, @huiracha​, @poetlix​, @hyunjins​, @changbeanie​, @leeminho-s​, @juyeons​, @minknows​, @felixies​, @seoschangbin​, and @hwang-hyunjinnies​!!! sorry if you’ve already been tagged ; ____ ; and u dont have to do it but yeah... if you do i’d love to see!! 

(also, did i just force you all to listen to a tmg song in full? yes... yes i did <3) 

[kailjoi]

Color Tutorial

You can also color the lineart if you’d like. It makes everything much softer, but I didn’t do that here.

This is just how I personally color things. By no means am I a professional, but I do hope this advice helps with giving someone the ‘OH!’ moment that has helped me improve so many times. Anyways, have a little me I drew to help your art :)

[kailjoi]

just porting over a quick face guideline tutorial for someone on insta

[kailjoi]

neon ?

Because of the positive comments I received for the last piece I did with the neon, I figured I’d make a little tutorial because the lighting is a lot of fun to draw.

Start with something you’ve colored and shaded. [I drew this in a few minutes so I could say I drew Josuke crying but also to make this how-to.]

Add a dark background color of some sort, and lighten up the middle behind the drawing slightly. Usually, I use a dark blue, but don’t use black because it can be harsh.

Draw whatever you’d like to be the neon sign in bright white with a solid brush. For the purpose of this tutorial, I just did ‘neon hearts.’ [Keep in mind that a lot of neon signs use cursive because the neon tube has to connect through the whole sign, but you can do whatever you’d like.]

On a new layer behind the white, take a bright neon color, and using an airbrush or another very soft brush at a large size, trace the thing you just drew in white.

Apply a harsh gaussian blur to this new color layer to spread it out.

On a new layer, using the airbrush again, do the same thing, and apply another blur, but at a slightly less intensity to keep the color a little closer.

Now take the color of the sign, make it a little brighter and closer to white, and use the airbrush again. Do not apply a blur this time.

This gives it a color halo:

Make a new layer above your colored drawing for each color of your signs. Take the colors you used for the signs and apply them with the airbrush or a soft brush to the places on the drawing that the sign would light up.

Set these layers to blending mode overlay.

Use a small solid brush to add colored highlights to anywhere else they need to be, like eyes or anything shiny.

And that’s about it! If you want to add anything additional, you can add the wires or unlit parts of the signs in a solid dark grey, like I did on my neon piece. I hope this is helpful!

Keep arting! If there are any other tutorials you guys would like, just shoot me an ask. uwu

[kailjoi]

So, just for the record, I wanted to see how much I've improved with comics and digital art in general. The first image is one of the first digital pieces I did and one of my earliest comic pages. Obviously the second image is one I finished today.

I wanted to share some things I've learned about comics with you, because these are things I had to figure out myself that I wish I had been told going in.

TEN [10] COMIC DRAWING TIPS:

[Keep in mind this refers to comic books and spreads, not 4-panel comics or Sunday-funnies/humor comics.]

1. Look at page references, please. Comics are like any other art- in order to make them look better, it’s nice to have some references. Reference manga you like, internet web comics, and doujinshi artists. I’ve been spending a lot of time lately printing out pages of doujin I like and writing comments about the page layout and flow that the artist used, so I can use it for reference later.

2. Start with single panel flows. What I’m talking about is ask-blog style, panel by panel storytelling. It’s simple, it’s easy, there’s no page-paneling involved. This is how you can get a better idea of character movement and speech bubble placement. I’ve been doing this for ages.

3. Panels don’t have to be square. Normally panels on comic pages are square/rectangular because they fit together on the page easily that way, and there is less wasted negative space; however, it is also very common to add oddly-shaped panels in every once in a while for interest. I use triangles a lot to turn big rectangles into more panels.

4. Panels are allowed to touch. In addition to using different panel shapes, you can overlap panels to make the page more interesting. Try not to crowd the page with panels though, because that will make it hard to read. Sometimes classic rectangles work just fine.

5. Make sure you keep the flow. This is the most basic piece of page layout information I can give you. If doesn’t matter if you decide to draw a comic left-to-right or right-to-left, the pages still need to be readable, and in order to be readable, the panels need to flow together. When you look at the page, starting at the appropriate top corner, the panels and speech bubbles need to follow naturally. If you were a reader of your comic who has never seen it before, you don’t want to have to reread or do a double-take in order to figure out in what order the dialogue is happening. The easiest way to do this is to stack panels from side to side, and then top to bottom. Divide your page into 1 to about 4 ‘rows’ of panels. Start with the appropriate top corner and fill the first ‘row’ before moving to the second. Your brain wants to read horizontally before it reads vertically, so let it go in that direction before you lead it down the page. Same concept with speech bubbles. The ones on the top of the page are going to catch the eye first, and then downwards.

6. Angles are important. No one wants to read a page of character heads talking for a whole comic, that’s boring. If you want to draw comics, you have to be able to draw a variety of character angles. As the comic artist, you’re like the cameraman. No one wants to watch a movie where the camera never moves or changes angles. Take the same concept into your pages. Use full body shots to make it dramatic or introduce a character, Use close ups for thinking or speaking. Use sweeping shots to display the scene/background. The angles you use determine your panel placement.

7. The scene’s energy matters. Panels can be used to slow down or speed up a scene. The reader is only going to look at the panels for a split second each, or as long as it takes to read the text in them. You have to use this in order for force their brain to slow down or speed up. Small, closely packed panels will make the scene speed up. This is good for quick movements or fight scenes, saving the bigger panels for dramatic whacks or cool poses. Long panels that span the width of the page, and big page spreads will pause the reader and cause them to slow down a little. This is good for emotional scenes or romantic scenes. You can use the combinations of these to pace your story. For example, I’m going to use wide panels as my characters lean in for a kiss, but use short, small, vertical panels for a close up on their lips as the moment speeds up like their heartbeats... you get the idea.

8. Speech bubbles convey emotion, not just words. Ovals work, but they’re plain. Unless it fits with your art style, making every speech bubble the same shape is a little boring. I take a lot of inspiration from Japanese manga and the elongated, unique, free-hand speech bubbles that it uses. They don’t have to be ovals- they can be slightly square, with rounded corners, or a little bit more angled. Changing the speech bubbles changes how your brain reads the text too. Thought bubbles are obviously read like thoughts, since they’re bubbly and seem internal. Hard angles or spasms in the lines of the bubble might indicate a harsh tone, anger, or sudden speech/surprise. Double-lined speech bubbles tend to be the other end of a phone call. Speech bubbles with dotted lines instead of solid make it seem like a whisper. Squares are usually a narration. No bubble at all may be a mumble under the character’s breath. This also can apply to slight text changes and fonts that you use for your words too.

9. Break the fourth wall. Why stay constricted and confined to those stupid square-shaped panels when you can utterly destroy all the work you put into drawing those straight lines? Break out of the panels. Hell, break a little out of the page itself. Panel edges are annoyingly straight and that’s not going to work with your pastel-aesthetic-lesbian Steven Universe fan-comic. Instead, let small parts of the characters come off of the panels. Let their head poke out of the top of the box and overlap the other panel. Put a whole body shot down the side of the page and draw your panels around it. We wanted to look at your handsome superhero OC for the whole page anyways. You can also let panels hit the side of the page to keep the page looking open and less crowded. Speech bubbles can break the fourth wall too, but they don’t always have too. Sometimes nice squares with everything neatly inside is just what the scene needs.

10. Finishing touches bring a page together. Now that you’ve drawn all your panels and bubbles and drawn in all the characters, you can add screen tones. Well, I’ve never used screen tones specifically, but shading does look very nice in grey-scale. Also, don’t be afraid of adding a black panel background to make it dark, or a panel with hyper-realistic shading for drama. You can add speed lines [very cool by the way], sound effects, or sparkles, bubbles, and blush. These details bring the page alive and make it appealing to look at. You can also draw your comic in color, but just remember that color takes a lot of time, so when you’re starting out and trying to get the hang of things, I wouldn’t worry about color.

Anyways, I hope this can help some of you who have wanted to draw comics or are doing so and need some advice. I’m not an expert or a professional, but I’m happy to try and answer any questions you might have, just ask.

Happy drawing!

[ironslung]

hi sweetheart;; first of all i’m really sorry for the delay in answering this question, i was sorta busy today, so thank you for waiting so long! and secondly, i really hope you were looking for a tutorial fnoawiefoawf bc that’s what i’m gonna give you!!

edit: this got fairly long because i included pictures and did my best to explain everything in detail !!! i hope it made sense and that you like it!!

edit edit: also, the ask wouldn’t let me use the read more option so i’m having to do it the hardway :[ sorry about that! 

so the process is fairly simple, all you really need is:

photoshop

whatever pic you’re using

so, firstly, open the image in photoshop, and while the image layer is selected, go to ‘Select > Select and Mask’ (or ALT + CTRL + R)

a window like this will open up:

in the dropdown window titled ‘View,’ select whichever one will be easier for you. personally i tend to go with ‘Overlay’ because its the easiest option to distinguish what has been selected and what hasn’t (for me at least.) plus, you can change the colour of the overlay if it’s too hard to see so i find it the most useful!

so now, using the tools on the left, you can mask your object out of the background.

the Quick Selection Tool is great for large areas of the same colour, as it’s a going to find pixels that are largely similar and select those. the Refine Edge Brush Tool is good for areas that are very fine and thin, things like hair can be masked using this. the Brush Tool is much like a paint brush and you can control exactly what you’re masking. the Lasso Tools (both freehand and polygonal ones) are good for large areas that aren’t specific in shape, rather getting a whole area. the Hand Tool is to move around the canvas. and the Zoom Tool is to oiawnefoaneiw well... zoom...

anyway, so i usually use a combination of the quick selection tool + the brush tool. i use the quick selection to get the major areas that i want, and then i use the brush tool to be more precise and specific in my selection.

the above image is using just the quick selection tool, it gets the major areas that i want, but as you can see there are certain places (between his legs, his hair, etc) that aren’t very accurate. for the purposes of my icon, i don’t really need anything below his shoulders, so i wouldn’t worry anything there. rather, now i’d use the brush tool to be more accurate with my selection.

(this is fairly rough oaiwnefoainefoawn but you get the basic idea!!!)

ok so now, on the Properties panel on the right, if you scroll down, you can play with the adjustments. i rarely use these because i try to mask my image as carefully as i can so i have a fairly clean and cut image, but if you’d like to you can!

so, with the ‘Output Settings,’ in the dropdown menu ‘Output To:’ i’d either pick: ‘New Layer’, or ‘New Layer with Mask’. the ‘New Layer’ option will simply open up the masked image in a new layer and nothing else. the ‘New Layer with Mask’ option will open up a new version of your image but with a layer mask. a layer mask is simply a cover that goes over the layer and hides parts of the image from being seen. i usually use the second option because it’s easier to find mistakes and fix them, rather than going back and doing your masking all over again! so again its up to you! but if you’re happy with your selection then go ahead and use ‘New Layer’ as the output option. then hit ‘OK’

as you can see, in the layers panel, the first layer is what ‘Output to New Layer’ would look like, whereas the second layer would be ‘Output to New Layer with Mask.’ to keep fixing the mask, you’d just double click on the mask, and that will open up the select and mask panel again!

okay, so now, back to the image, you want to select the area that you’re going to be use for the icon, whether that be the whole image or in this case part of the image. (you can do this step right at the beginning tbh, it’ll save you time if you’re not trying to mask everything perfectly, but i tend to do more of the image than i think i’ll need in case i want to tilt the image or smth!)

using the rectangular marquee tool, i’d select what area i want, and then (making sure you’re on the correct layer) copy that part of the image.

once copied, go ‘File > New’ or ‘CTRL+N’

this panel will open up, and you can chose your specifications from here. i tend to go 500x500pixels but in this case my original image was about 754 pixels so i did that by itself, and made a square as my new canvas. depending on how good quality your image will result in higher or lower amt of pixels, which will in turn give you a different size to work with. so when you have the proportions hit ‘Create’

you’ll get a new blank canvas like this

go ahead and delete the white layer so you’re left with a transparent canvas (you can do this from the creating a new page panel but oaoifnwaoife i never do it i’m Big Stupid..... anyway...

so now, paste the image on this screen and resize as needed.

now, set that layer to invisible by clicking the little eye beside the layer. now, selecting the ‘Elipse Tool,’

click on the screen and you should get a window that looks like this:

click ‘OK’ and this is what your screen should look like

so, you can change the colour of the shape by using the square i’ve pointed to. i changed my colour to black, then centered it using the moving tool. now, while holding the ‘shift’ and ‘alt’ key on your keyboard, drag the transform corners out.

making it as big as you want, but not bigger than the canvas, click the checkmark on the upper right hand corner.

okay, so now, make the hidden layer visible, and make sure everything is centered how you like it.

select your image layer, and hit ‘ctrl + j’, this will duplicate the image in the exact same place. hide the duplicated layer, that’s for later. now, while staying on the visible image, hover over the shape, while holding ‘alt’ on your keyboard. a little downwards arrow and box should appear there while you’re hovering. click on the shape layer while holding alt and what should happen is this:

basically what this does is it makes it so that the only things that are visible from the image layer are whatever area of the layer below it is showing.

anyway, so now, looking back at the duplicated image, make it visible, and erase the bottom part of the image that you don’t want. in my case, its the part of his shirt.

so you can erase as far up as you want, as long as you don’t cut off the part that you want over hanging from the shape.

at this point, your icon is pretty much done! i usually add a colouring on top of the icon to make it more my style and more to my taste!! but that’s not really necessary!

and that’s that! you’ve got an icon! now, when you go to save it, make sure you save it as a PNG rather than a JPG. a png will preserve the transparent background that we made!

and save! and that’ll give you!! a transparent icon!!!

i really hope this helped/explained it well! sorry that it took me so long and that my tutorial was fairly lengthy, but i wanted to be thorough in my explanation! mwah i hope you have a good day!

[ironslung]

how did u make ur icon?

hi sweetheart;; first of all i’m really sorry for the delay in answering this question, i was sorta busy today, so thank you for waiting so long! and secondly, i really hope you were looking for a tutorial fnoawiefoawf bc that’s what i’m gonna give you!! 

also i couldn’t put a read more on this ask so i had to make this a separate post which you can find: here!