If you read about Jaisalmer, you'll read about the licentious diwan who tormented the Kuldhara chief's daughter and drove the Paliwals out of Jaisalmer district leaving intact houses full of gold. Here, aratikumarrao goes looking for the Paliwal legacy in a poem recited by the Manganiyars:
"Intrigued by snatches of their history that hinted at their tenacious ability to thrive within a harsh landscape, and curious to go beyond the tourist drivel of Salim Singh (the licentious diwan), I began to poke around. Where did they come from? What was their life like? And yes, why did 84 villages really up and leave? And, what was most interesting … How did they get so rich in a dreary desert?"
Late one July afternoon, when monsoon clouds eclipsed the desert sun but refused to relieve the heat, I sat in the picture window of a coffee shop waiting for a call from Mame Khan. A few weeks prior, he had traced someone who knew the Paliwal chhand.
All morning, Mame Khan and I were engaged in intense negotiation with the old Manganiyar and his nephew Babu Khan.
“You will make a movie of us,” Babu Khan rasped. I will only take notes, I said.
“You will sell the chhand,” he said. I will only take notes, I said.
“You will make a lot of money from the video,” he said. I will only take notes, I said.
“Give us 20,000 rupees for the chhand,” he said. “I will pay you for your time, but I don’t have that much”, I said.
And so it went on. Let me at least come and meet you, I said; I have come from far.
Finally, there I was, on a long straight narrow road that sliced through the hot desert in the direction of Fatehgarh. The landscape changed as my jeep raced along, as the desert swallowed the sandstone structures of Jaisalmer.