#marking knife

[grinwooddesigns]

Marking Knife Build From an Old File - Woodworking Marking Knife

[dekeros]

Small Marking Knife for woodworking

[danielthux]

Marking knife made from scrap wood, old sawz all blade and brass plumbing compression nut.

[oldtimeywoodworking-blog]

Making a marking knife and using a mortising chisel -Stumpy Nubs Old Timey Woodworking #1 

STUMPY'S WEBSITE►http://www.stumpynubs.com

SUBSCRIBE►http://www.youtube.com/user/StumpyNubsWorkshop

The first episode of a whole new show! Stumpy takes you back to a time of simple woodworking pleasures! This time he shows you how to make your own marking knife and how to use it for a lot more than marking! Then he demonstrates how to use a traditional mortising chisel. All this and everything else that has made Stumpy Nubs videos among the most watched in woodworking!

[jsr-furnituremaking]

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Thirteen

During this lesson I decided it was time to create the groove for the back and divider of the cabinet. I did this using the methods previously explained further ↓ the blog ;) The main problem I had during this lesson was the fact there were only two combination planes, and I left mine at home :( . However I decided it would be better to go home and pick it up, rather then waste lesson time. I also had to put on a wooden guard on the plane to stop it from marking the cabinet wood. The groove that I created was 4mm deep, and 6mm wide.

Wood attached to guard

Groove cut in wood ready for cupboard back

I then used a combination of chisels and a number 71 plane to create the divider groove. The biggest problem was tear out along the edge of the groove, but I learnt from the first one that I did and chisels deeper first. This meant that the second groove was much better. This groove was 16mm and 4mm deep.

Grooves complete

[jsr-furnituremaking]

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Ten

I never realized how many different types of Dovetail joints there were, but I learnt another one today. This Dovetail Joint was a Mired Corner Dovetail. This is very similar to the Through Dovetail, apart from (as the name says) mitered pins on each end. To help understand see below for diagrams of each piece of wood. The Tail Board:

Above: Shows end of Tail Board with areas to cut out

Above: 3D image of Tail Board

The Pin Board:

Above: Shows end of Pin Board with areas to cut out

Above: 3D image of Pin Board

Above: Side view which will be the same on each end of both boards

I think that aesthetically this is the best looking Dovetail Joint that I have made. It was very hard to understand how to create this joint initially, but with an example joint that I could take apart, I soon learned just how easily it really is. The hardest part of joint was getting the mitre correct on both pieces of wood, and therefore getting it to joint squarely.

 I will add some photos later, as they are on a different camera ;) .

[jsr-furnituremaking]

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Seven

Once I had successfully created a single Dovetail joint, the next was to make a through D/T. This involved similar cutting techniques, but very different marking out initially. Below shows all the measurements in one diagram. These are then explained in the step by step instructions.

Step 1:

I first cut the board into two sections, and by using a plane and shooting board, smoothed off the edge so it was completely square.

Above: Shooting board being used to plane square edge

Step 2: Once I had planed both pieces I then began to mark out the tails. To begin I measured 2mm in from both sides, as this would be the width of the pins on the other board, and any smaller would mean they would snap off. I then made a cut line all the way round the piece of wood, using the thickness of the piece of wood. Finally using a ruler, measure across the piece of wood until you can easily divide that by the number of tails you require. As I wanted four tails, I measured 120mm across, and then marked every 30mm.

Above: measuring and marking every 30mm. Starting from 10mm as the end of the ruler may not be accurate

Step 3: Once you have marked on the required distances for your tails, use a Try Square to draw them up to the edge of the wood.

Above: Lines meet the edge of board and cut line is clearly visible

Step 4:

Then I marked on each side of this line 1mm, as this is where the pins will end.

Above: 1mm has been marked either side of the line.

Step 5:

I then used the Dovetail Marker to draw the angled lines from each 1mm marked points across the top edge of the board, and also from the 4mm lines. Mark all waste which is to be removed. I then used my D/T saw, and coping saw to remove as much waste between the tails as possible.

Above: Tails are clearly marked.

Step 6:

Then using different sized chisels, I removed the remainder of the waste, and used these to mark out the pins on the edge of the other piece of wood.

Pairing down the joins to remove waste.

Step 7:

The image below shows that I have marked the pins by using the tails as a guide, and I then removed this with a D/T saw, coping saw and chisels.

Above: The pins marked out.

Above: The pins cut out and finished.

Step 8:

After some adjustment and pairing, this joint should fit together perfectly, and be at a true 90 degree angle.

Above: The finished joint.

After finishing the joint, I had time to reflect on how I felt it went. I was really pleased with the overall joint, especially the edge you can see in the photo above, however the other side of the joint would need to be clamped up to get a neat finish.

[jsr-furnituremaking]

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Six

Today I used the Dovetail Marker made in the previous lesson to make a full dovetail joint. To begin I marked out the tail, using the normal tools such as the Marking Gauge, Marking knife and also the new D/T Marker. To use the D/T Marker, it is as simple as holding against the edge of the wood till the angle fits neatly, and drawing a line on either side of the marker, as shown below.

Once this was marked out, we cut off all the waste, include the half off of the back to just leave the tail.

 This was then used to make the slot where the tail would sit in the other piece of wood. This is done so even if the actual cut line is slightly off the marked cutting line, then it will still slot neatly into the joint. Once again to cut off all the waste I put the wood in the vice at an angle, which is how I find it easier to cut angled lines, and then cut straight down.

Once I had cut, chisel and smoothed of both section with a hand router, I put both pieces together, and found they came to be the best joint I had made so far.

The join (Although not fully pushed together)

 I was really pleased, and as I had some spare time I even made myself two bench hooks! This is because there isn't many in the workshop, and I had been using a left handed on, which made cutting difficult.