So, I have in fact set off on that Pictish Stone Road Trip I mentioned a while back! I’ve just completed the second day of my little tour and am now comfortably ensconced in an Aberdeen hotel, which frankly looks a bit like a prison from the outside but is actually very nice. The wi-fi in the previous hotel wasn’t very good, however, so I’m just now starting to upload any photos. Which, as this photoset implies, will not all be of Pictish stones.
The first stop on my road trip was the McManus Gallery in Dundee, the city’s biggest museum and art gallery. Officially it’s just called ‘the mcmanus’ (all lower-case) since a big refurbishment a few years ago but I don’t think anyone actually calls it that. This is one of its most striking exhibits, the skeleton of the Tay Whale, and the story behind it is rather sad.
Once upon a time, Dundee was one of the big names in the whaling industry. The shipyards there were well-known for their whaling vessels, which included the ill-fated Terra Nova of Scott-of-the-Antarctic fame, but the city didn’t limit itself to just building the ships. One December day in 1883, a humpback whale swam up the Firth of Tay and some of the winter-bored whalers in port decided to hunt it, because I guess that was just kind of what you did when you saw a humpback whale in 1883. While they successfully harpooned the whale, after a long struggle the harpoon lines broke and the whale escaped into the North Sea. Where, we must presume, it slowly and painfully died of blood loss, infection, shock or some other complication stemming from having large chunks of sharp metal lodged in its flesh, for its carcass was found floating off Stonehaven a week later. The poor whale was towed back to land and transported to Dundee, where - once it stank too much for people to want to come and see it - it was publicly dissected by one John Struthers, an anatomy professor from the University of Aberdeen.
Then, to add insult to injury, William Topaz McGonagall wrote a poem about it.