#modern muzzleloading

[thelaurelhighlander]

The Traditions™ Deerhunter series consists of affordable, lightweight, and compact muzzleloaders available in .50 caliber percussion, or flintlock, designed for hunting. They feature 24-inch octagonal barrels, a 1:48" twist rate, and synthetic, or hardwood stock. Muzzleloaders are equipped with adjustable Williams metal fiber optic sights. Both weigh in at approximately 6 lbs, making it easy to carry. The series is popular for its simplicity.

A 1:48 twist rate remains a popular choice for traditional-style modern muzzleloaders is a versatile "compromise" twist rate designed to handle both patched round ball, and conical bullets, such as the maxiball. This twist rate allows for the use of round balls for target/small game, and conical bullets for deer hunting. It is generally best for, but not limited to, mid-range shooting (50 to 100 yards).

Best Accuracy/Hunting Load: 70 to 80 grains of 3F Black Powder with a .490 round ball and patched with a .015 or .018 patch.

Alternative (Conical): 75 grains of 3F black powder has been shown to work well with, or similar to, 250 to 300 grain conical projectiles.

Maximum Load: 105 grains of 3F black powder.

I can definitely recommend either one for hunting whitetails. Both the Deerhunter percussion, or the flintlock model is a descent modernized muzzleloader that won't break the bank, and works well as a "bare bones" weapon to put meat in the freezer.

(Percussion model shown)

[thelaurelhighlander]

Federal Premium's B.O.R. Lock Trophy Copper 270 grn. MZ Bullet. First stage shows cutaway view of bullet, the second shows actual bullet, third is bullet compression during muzzleloading, and last is bullet fired (note barrel striations on polymer cup).

[thelaurelhighlander]

My Traditions Deerhunter .50 caliber flintlock rifle is a basic lightweight (Approximately 6 lbs.) muzzleloader with a 1:48" twist rate for primitive hunting season.

Most of the venison I harvest during flintlock season is less than 25 yards (75 feet), my Deerhunter does a great job of putting meat on the table. This muzzleloader works with patch & round ball, or pure lead conical bullet like a minié, or maxiball bullet.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Anatomy of a Modern Inline Muzzleloader.

I love hunting with my inline muzzleloader. It's highly accurate out to 200+ yards, easier to clean (removable breech plug), and it takes #209 shotgun primers which are available just about everywhere, compared to #11 percussion caps.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Lee 2 Cavity Bullet Mold .50 Caliber 320 Grain R.E.A.L. (Rifling Engraved At Loading) Maxi Ball Projectile

I have a few Lee bullet molds for making black powder projectiles. The .50 caliber maxi ball mold is what I use the most, since I tend to hunt the local whitetails with either my percussion Deerhunter, or my flintlock Deerhunter rifle. This soft lead bullet functions extremely well in both muzzleloaders, and is easier to load than patch & round ball.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Traditions PA Pellet Ultralight Flintlock Rifle

Traditions PA Pellet Ultralight just became a game changer for Flintlock season! Based off of the popular PA Pellet Flintlock, Traditions has changed the barrel to be made of Premium grade Chromoly steel which is typically found on centerfire rifles. This material makes the barrel extremely strong, lightweight, and accurate. The new 1:28" twist allows you to fire saboted bullets and modern muzzleloading projectiles. Traditions PA Pellet Ultralight allows for the firing of loose or pelletized powder and also has a stronger flintlock system enabling a more consistent ignition and better spark. Flints not included. 

Features:

• Accelerator Breech Plug

• Ignites loose or pelletized powder

• In-line ignition

• Improved hardened frizzen

• Rubber Butt Pad

• Alloy Fiber Optic Sights

• Solid Aluminum Ramrod

• Sling Swivel Studs

[thelaurelhighlander]

Cutting, shaping, or even rebeveling hard English flints with a Dremel tool is entirely possible, but doing so requires care to avoid shattering the brittle stone. You should use a diamond cutting wheel like a Dremel EZ545 Diamond Wheel, or Dremel 545 Diamond Wheel. Run your Dremel at a low to moderate speed (around 15,000 to 20,000 RPM). High speeds cause friction, and excessive heat. Let the tool do the work (do not force the blade into the stone). Never hold the flint freehand while grinding, or cutting. Secure it tightly in a padded (I use a piece of wood between the metal jaws with a scrap piece of leather to prevent the flint from cracking). A spray bottle keeps the flint wet while cutting. Water reduces heat buildup, which prevents the flint from cracking, and suppresses harmful dust. Make sure to wear goggles, and a mask.

My flintlock rifle requires 5/8" flints, and I love using English flint. If your flint is too wide, or if it's long, and hits the barrel or if it binds up on the frizzen, use a simple whetstone to grind one side, or the back edge down until you have a safe 1/16 inch clearance between the flint, and the barrel, or the frizzen. When installing the flint remember to use a thin piece of leather wrap to secure the stone tightly, and protect your lock's top jaw (I don't use lead wraps as I can make my own out of leather).

I used to be pretty good at flint knapping, but I'm not as sure handed as I once was, I now use a dremel with a flex attachment, and I can make a few of them in the time it used to take me to make one.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Harvesting whitetails in heavy woodlands requires a streamlined setup to handle the moisture, and debris common in hunting dense timber.

Modern muzzleloading gear requires standard backcountry hunting essentials paired with blackpowder specific shooting, and maintenance tools.

Your kit must keep your powder & primers bone dry, allow for quick reloading, or a possible follow up shot.

Backcountry gear should also include emergency items for use rugged terrain.

A breakdown of the specific essentials ensures you are fully prepared for the field.

Apparel (Heavily Forested Woodlands):

• Layering: Moisture wicking base layers (Merino wool), an insulating mid-layer (fleece, down, or wool). A quiet, wind & waterproof outer shell that block the damp cold.

• Base Layers: Moisture wicking, odor controlling merino wool. Perspiration is your enemy when hiking ridges; wool prevent you from freezing when you stop.

• Outerwear: Soft, fleece lined, or quiet wool lined layers. Avoid stiff, noisy "crinkly" rain gear, as every snap, and rustle echoes in close quarters timber.

• Scent Control: Carbon lined clothing, scent elimination sprays, and scent free laundry detergents.

• Gaiters: Protects your lower legs, and boots from mud, briars, and dew as you navigate creek bottoms, and brushy draws.

• Footwear: Waterproof, aggressively treaded rubber boots for navigating creek crossings, and muddy forest floors.

• Safety: A certified blaze orange hat & jacket, or vest (mandatory in Pennsylvania).

Muzzleloader:

• Firearm: A modern inline short barreled muzzleloader (.45, or .50 caliber) for easy maneuvering through thick brush as heavy woodlands limit shots mostly to 50 yards, or so. And should be equipped with either a reliable low power variable scope (2-7×32mm), red dot, or high quality peep sights.

• Projectiles: Saboted, or non-saboted bullets (250–300 grain).

• Propellant: Black powder substitute, premeasured loose powder, or in pellet form.

• Ignition: 209 shotgun primers (keep at least a half dozen extras in a waterproof case).

Blackpowder Essentials:

• Breech Plug Wrench: Essential for removing the plug for thorough cleaning, or clearing obstructions.

• Breech Plug Grease: Anti-seize lubricant to prevent the plug from seizing in the barrel.

• Speed Loaders: Carry at least 4 pre-measured tubes containing your bullet, powder, and primer for quick reloading, or follow up shots.

• Capping/Decapping Tool: To safely, and quickly seat primers on the nipple in cold, or wet weather.

• Bullet Starter: Short, and long starter to seat the bullet into the bore.

• Nipple Pick & Pipe Cleaners: To clear the flash channel if you needed.

• Muzzle Covers: Specialized rubber muzzle covers to keep mud, and snow out of your barrel (these are designed to be fired thru).

• Dry Patches: For drying the bore before loading, and wiping down the exterior (I carry torn pieces of cotton undershirt in a zippy bag).

• Ramrod Accessories: T-handle attachment, brass Jag, and brass bore brush (buckstalker has a built in jag as part of the ramrod).

• Possibles Pouch: A small belt pouch for your blackpowder essentials (primers, powder, projectiles, etc).

Shooting Gear:

• Shooting Stick: A Compact, collapsible shooting stick for quick, steady rests in tight shooting lanes, and is a must for uneven, hilly terrain where natural rests are scarce.

• Wind Checker: A bottle of scent powder, or milkweed floss to constantly monitor the thermals, which shift unpredictably in hilly timber regions.

• Navigation: A hunting GPS, or downloaded offline topographic maps to track boundary lines, and bedding areas, etc. (I still carry a waterproof map & magnetic compass).

Daypack & Field Gear:

• Day Pack: A low profile 15L to 20L day pack, or lumbar pack.

• Binoculars: Compact, high clarity 8x32mm, or 10x42mm binoculars.

• Pruning Shears/Saw: A compact, folding hand saw, or pruning shears for quietly clearing shooting lanes through branches.

• FlashLight: A quality hands free led headlamp (with a red, or green light setting), or an led flashlight.

• Safety & Survival Kit: Fire starter & tinder tabs, survival blanket, zip ties, basic medical supplies, whistle, and a emergency satcom device (like a Garmin inReach, or SPOT X).

• Field Dressing/Harvesting Kit: Ultralight game bags, game tarp, skinning scalpel w/ replaceable blades, or a razor sharp fixed blade hunting knife w/ sharpener, black nitrile gloves, paracord, and a portage strap (deer drag).

• Extra Batteries: For headlamp, flashlight, or gps (whatever you carry, make sure your equipment takes a popular type & all the same battery, AA, AAA, etc).