HARVESTING VENISON

HUNTING WHITETAIL DEER

[thelaurelhighlander]

[s-culper]

[thelaurelhighlander]

Doing a Mock Scrape:

Mock scrapes are powerful communication hubs that allow you to dictate whitetail travel patterns, inventory local bucks, and draw deer into ideal shooting lanes. The most effective setups feature a dedicated overhanging licking branch positioned over a cleared oval of dirt, strategically placed just out of arm's reach of your tree stand.

Place scrapes in staging areas between known bedding, and feeding zones, or where multiple travel corridors converge (e.g., logging roads, field edges).

Locate the scrape 30 to 50 yards upwind, or crosswind of your blind. This forces bucks to stop, and circle downwind of the area. Choose flat, dry ground as slopes, or wet mud will cause scents, and urine to wash away, or fail to absorb properly.

A.) The Licking Branch:

The Licking Branch (The Key to Success)

1.) Use a flexible, living vine (such as wild grape, or Virginia creeper), or a branch from a highly visible tree.

2.) Ensure the tip of the branch hangs roughly at waist to chest height (3 to 4 feet off the ground).

3.) Use durable branches (like beech, or oak) that hold their leaves throughout the late season, making the scrape a visual beacon to passing deer.

B.) Prepping the Dirt:

1.) Clear an oval shaped patch about 3 feet in diameter directly beneath the licking branch.

2.) Scrape away all leaves, pine needles, and debris. Use your boots to expose the black, bare soil.

3.) Mimic the look of a pawed up area, and leave initial tracks using your boot, or an old deer hoof.

Scent Application:

4.) Wear rubber gloves during the entire setup and application process to keep human scent off the branches, and ground.

5.) Start by rubbing the licking branch with pre-orbital scents, or glandular lures to encourage deer to rub their foreheads on the vine.

6.) Use synthetic, or natural buck/doe urine directly on the dirt.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Building a DIY ground blind using camouflage netting is an inexpensive, highly customizable, and lightweight way to conceal your movements in the field. Using a freestanding structure wrapped in high quality 3D mesh creates depth, eliminates silhouettes, and ensures you remain completely undetected.

Opt for durable polyester mesh featuring a non glare finish and 3D leaf cut texture, such as the Hunter's Specialties 3D Mesh Blind Material, or Allen Vanish Camo Netting.

While options for framing run from four T-posts, sturdy wooden stakes, rebar, or 3/4-inch PVC pipe, I tend to use what I find in the field. Heavy duty zip ties, paracord, or flexible wire work for fastening, and I carry pruning shears, a saw, and a rubber mallet (which also works great for stomping).

Find a thick natural backdrop like a hedge, large tree, or brush pile to eliminate your silhouette. A downed forked tree, or large gap in boulders work great. Use nature to your advantage.

Ensure the blind faces downwind, and offers clear shooting lanes toward target areas.

Clear all twigs, leaves, and rocks from the floor area to keep your movements dead silent.

Sit on your hunting seat to measure the optimal height for the front wall, and windows.

Drive your frame stakes firmly into the ground to outline a three-sided, or U-shaped enclosure.

If using poles, tie paracord tautly between the tops of the poles to form a sturdy top rail for hanging the net.

Wrap and Secure the Netting by draping your mesh tightly across the outside of the stakes to create walls covering three sides, leaving the back open or curtained for entry. Secure the material evenly along the frame at 6 to 8 inch intervals using zip ties or wire. Keep the netting pulled snug to prevent it from flapping, stretching, or making noise in high winds.

Sit inside the blind with your gear to map out the necessary lines of sight for observation. Carefully create small, strategic openings in the mesh, keep these openings as small as possible to minimize the chance of wildlife spotting internal movements.

Gather downed branches, weeds, evergreen limbs, and native tall grasses from the immediate area for "brushing in". Weave these items directly into the mesh netting, and stack larger limbs against the base of the frame to break up the straight lines of the structure. Avoid using foreign vegetation as anomalous shapes or textures may appear unnatural in the environment.

Wearing camouflaged clothing helps an individual blend into the shadows created inside the blind.

(Setup pictured not one of mine. Just for illustration purposes only)

[thelaurelhighlander]

Grilled Venison Backstrap

This recipe will work with any outdoor grill (gas grill, charcoal grill, etc.).

Ingredients:

• 1 lb venison backstrap (whole)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• salt and black pepper, to taste

Instructions:

• Season the steak according to the instructions below, then let it rest at room temperature for 30-60 minutes before cooking.

• Heat grill to 350°F.

• Pat the steak dry with paper towels.

• Drizzle olive oil over the steak and use a basting brush or your hands to completely cover the steak in oil.

• Season generously with salt and black pepper on all sides.

• Place the backstrap on the grill, directly over the flames. Cook for 2 minutes.

• Flip and cook for an additional 2 minutes.

• Flip and cook for an additional 1 minute. Repeat and cook for an additional 1 minute.

• Check the temperature and continue flipping the steak frequently until the internal temperature reaches 120-125°F for medium-rare. The cooking time will depend on which portion of the backstrap you're using and the size of the animal.

• Remove the steak to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 minutes.

• Cut into ½" slices or into medallion-size steaks. Enjoy will some creamy horseradish sauce, or a creamy, tangy mustard sauce like for stone crab claws (this is excellent on venison).

[bluelady127]

[thelaurelhighlander]

Lee 2 Cavity Bullet Mold .50 Caliber 320 Grain R.E.A.L. (Rifling Engraved At Loading) Maxi Ball Projectile

I have a few Lee bullet molds for making black powder projectiles. The .50 caliber maxi ball mold is what I use the most, since I tend to hunt the local whitetails with either my percussion Deerhunter, or my flintlock Deerhunter rifle. This soft lead bullet functions extremely well in both muzzleloaders, and is easier to load than patch & round ball.

[hootershoney234]

Doe makes speedy exit .

[thelaurelhighlander]

"Slick Head"

[thelaurelhighlander]

Traditional Whitetail Tactics:

Traditional whitetail tactics rely on woodsmanship, terrain reading, and stealth rather than relying solely on electronic scouting, or bait. Core methods include still hunting (moving at a snail's pace into the wind to spot deer), ground hunting (using natural "caves", or brush to hide movement), and terrian based ambushes.

1. Still Hunting:

The "Slow Down" Method: Instead of covering miles of terrain, move just 100 yards over several hours. The goal is to see the deer before it sees you.

Match Conditions: Ideal for damp, quiet days with falling snow, or a steady breeze, which muffle your approach and help conceal your silhouette.

The Pause: Take a few quiet steps, stop next to a tree, or a shadow, and use binoculars to meticulously glass the woods. If the local squirrels, and birds are relaxed, your presence isn't disrupting the woods.

2. Terrain Based Ambush:

Scout the Terrain: Focus on geographic "pinch points", or "funnels," such as where a ridge narrows. Because deer take the path of least resistance, these features concentrate their movement.

Morning vs. Afternoon: Set up as close to bedding areas as possible in the morning, and on the edges of feeding areas, like green oaks, or agricultural fields, in the afternoon.

The 7 Day Rule: Mature bucks frequently revisit the exact same travel corridors, or scrapes within the same 7 day window year after year.

3. Hunting from the Ground:

Natural Blinds: Abandon heavy commercial blinds in favor of building "hides" out of blowdowns, logs, and thickets along heavily used trails.

No Sky lining: Sit low enough that you don't need to stand up to draw your bow, or shoulder a gun. Keep a backdrop (like a thick bush, or tree) to prevent yourself from being silhouetted.

Shot Clearance: Ensure you can draw your bow, or swing your weapon without your limbs,or elbows hitting a tree, or snagging on vegetation.

4. Calling, and Mock Scrapes:

Visualizing the Scenario: Aggressive calling works best during the pre rut and peak rut when bucks are actively seeking does, or sparring.

The Tending Grunt: Use a deep, fighting grunt to imitate a rival buck invading another buck's space.

Scratch, and Scrape: Clear a patch of earth under a tree, use a heavy stick to break branches, and paw the ground, and use your voice to make a wheeze or grunt. This tricks a mature buck into thinking an inferior interloper is in his area. 

[thelaurelhighlander]

The Longhunter shirts from Four Winds Fashions are designed to be historically accurate, meaning they run much larger, baggier, and longer than modern standard clothing. Despite the oversized cut, the designer advises customers to order their normal t-shirt size. The garments are intentionally up sized during production to account for future fabric shrinkage.

Four Winds Fashions make more that shirts like hunting frocks, sashes, and custom Capote coats, etc.. So if you're into reenactments check them out. Well worth the money.

Note: I've looked at different companies that make longhunter shirts, and none of them had any sizes bigger than an extra large, or a really tight 2xl. Most were really expensive. Four Winds Fashions longhunter shirt sizes run medium to 6xl, and are made to order. These larger sizes fit comfortably well even for a big "knuckle dragger" like me, and the price is around fifty bucks. I wear mine during fall whitetail season, and bought one size larger so I can wear my wool commando sweater underneath. Instead of a woven sash (which is traditional), I wear a 2" wide belt & my trade knife, (sometimes my old colt revolver). I am in no way a reenactor, nor am I a traditionalist when it comes to muzzleloading, but I do love these shirts, and highly recommend them.

[thelaurelhighlander]

OKC Old Hickory Slicer Knife w/ 8" Blade

(Makes a great fur trade, or scalping knife, but unfortunately no commercial sheath is available, so one would need to be custom made)

[thelaurelhighlander]

When It Comes To An American Pit Viper Bite:

Medical experts, and organizations generally consider traditional commercial snake bite kits, especially those featuring suction devices, or scalpels, to be ineffective, and potentially harmful.

Why Traditional Kits Fail:

• Ineffective Suction: Studies show that suction devices (like the Sawyer Extractor) remove less than 2% of the venom, which is not enough to prevent systemic effects.

• Increased Tissue Damage: The negative pressure from suction can concentrate venom at the site, worsening local tissue destruction, and necrosis.

• Cutting is Dangerous: Using scalpels to make incisions can lead to severe infections, damage to underlying nerves, or blood vessels, and increased bleeding.

• Tourniquet Risks: Applying a tourniquet can cut off circulation entirely, potentially leading to limb loss by trapping venom in one area, and causing extreme localized damage.

What NOT to do:

• Do not apply a tourniquet: This cuts off blood flow and can cause the limb to die.

• Do not use suction devices, or cut the wound: This is ineffective and can damage the tissue further.

• Do not use electrical shock: You should never use a stun gun, or electrical charge to treat a snake bite.

• Do not apply ice: Freezing the wound worsens local tissue damage.

• Pressure Immobilization (Specific Regions): While this may work in Australia, for instance, where specialized compression bandages with visual pressure indicators are standard for slowing venom spread from certain species. This is not the case for North American pit vipers. Pressure immobilization should not be used for rattlesnake, copperhead, or water moccasin bites (we don't have water moccasins in my state). While it does slow the venom, these particular venoms cause severe local tissue damage. Trapping the venom in the limb can worsen tissue destruction (necrosis), increase internal pressure, and lead to a surgical emergency.

What Actually Works:

• Seek Medical Help Immediately: Call 911, or get to a hospital ASAP. Antivenom is the only definitive treatment for envenomation.

• Stay Calm, and Still: Limit movement to slow the spread of venom through the lymphatic system.

• Keep the limb calm: Immobilize the affected area and keep it at, or slightly below heart level to slow the spread of venom through the bloodstream.

• Remove Jewelry: Take off rings, watches, or tight clothing near the bite site, as limbs can swell rapidly.

• Clean the wound: Gently wash the area with soap and water.

• The "Sharpie" Method: Use a permanent marker to circle the bite area, and write down the time. Every 15-30 minutes, mark the progress of the swelling to help doctors assess the severity.

Side Note: Many dangerous "old wives' tales" surround snakebites. Folklore remedies like using a tourniquet, cutting an 'X' at the wound site, sucking out the poison, drinking alcohol, using gunpowder, or the use a hot iron/coal to burn the wound. I've heard them all, some even from Grandfather, and my Ugga (grandma).

The truth is instead of helping, these myths trap venom, cause damage tissue, speed up your heart rate, and in some methods cause unnecessary severe burns. These myths do nothing to neutralize the venom, and only further complicate medical treatment. Commercially produced "snake bite" kits only exacerbate the risk.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Venison Swiss Steaks

Key Ingredients:

• Venison Steaks: 1.5 to 2 lbs of round steak, backstrap, or cubed steak.

• Dredge: 1/2 cup flour, salt, pepper, and garlic powder.

• Cooking Liquid: 1 can of stewed, or crushed tomatoes (or 1 can of French onion soup) combined with a dash of Worcestershire sauce, and beef broth.

• Aromatics: 1 large sliced onion, diced celery, and minced garlic.

Step by Step Instructions:

• Tenderize: If your meat isn't already cubed, use a meat mallet to pound the steaks until they are about 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch thick to break down tough fibers.

• Dredge & Sear: Combine the flour and seasonings in a shallow dish. Dredge the steaks in the mixture. Heat 2-3 tablespoons of oil in a heavy Dutch oven, or skillet over medium high heat, and sear the steaks on both sides until beautifully browned. Remove and set aside.

• Sauté Aromatics: In the same pan, toss in your sliced onions, and celery, cooking until softened (about 3-5 minutes).

• Braise: Return the steaks to the pan, and cover with your tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, and any additional beef broth, or water.

• Oven Method: Cover the Dutch oven, and bake at 325°F to 350°F for 1.5 to 2 hours.

• Slow Cooker Method: Transfer everything to a slow cooker, and cook on low for 6 to 8 hours.

Preparation Tips:

• Prevent Drying: Venison is very lean, and dries out quickly if cooked too fast at high temperatures. Braising it in liquid over a long period makes it melt in your mouth tender.

Deglaze: When you add your liquids to the pot, scrape up all the delicious, browned flour bits left from searing the meat. This will build a richer gravy base.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Cutting, shaping, or even rebeveling hard English flints with a Dremel tool is entirely possible, but doing so requires care to avoid shattering the brittle stone. You should use a diamond cutting wheel like a Dremel EZ545 Diamond Wheel, or Dremel 545 Diamond Wheel. Run your Dremel at a low to moderate speed (around 15,000 to 20,000 RPM). High speeds cause friction, and excessive heat. Let the tool do the work (do not force the blade into the stone). Never hold the flint freehand while grinding, or cutting. Secure it tightly in a padded (I use a piece of wood between the metal jaws with a scrap piece of leather to prevent the flint from cracking). A spray bottle keeps the flint wet while cutting. Water reduces heat buildup, which prevents the flint from cracking, and suppresses harmful dust. Make sure to wear goggles, and a mask.

My flintlock rifle requires 5/8" flints, and I love using English flint. If your flint is too wide, or if it's long, and hits the barrel or if it binds up on the frizzen, use a simple whetstone to grind one side, or the back edge down until you have a safe 1/16 inch clearance between the flint, and the barrel, or the frizzen. When installing the flint remember to use a thin piece of leather wrap to secure the stone tightly, and protect your lock's top jaw (I don't use lead wraps as I can make my own out of leather).

I used to be pretty good at flint knapping, but I'm not as sure handed as I once was, I now use a dremel with a flex attachment, and I can make a few of them in the time it used to take me to make one.

[thelaurelhighlander]

Cold Steel 90TH Trail Hawk Drop Forged Tomahawk 22" Overall

Drop forged 1055 carbon steel with straight grain American Hickory Handle.

Specifications:

• Primary Edge: 2 1/4"

• Overall: 22"

• Hawk: 6 1/2"

• Weight: 19.1 oz.

• No Sheath

• Made in Taiwan

You should able to find these for around $25.00, or so. They are made overseas, so they're not the best to go out of the box, and do take a little work tuning them up.

This is the one I carry, and I did do some customizing including cutting about 3½" off the bottom. It's a decent work horse in the field (I wouldn't be carrying one if it wasn't), but if you are looking for ready to go out of the box, this hawk isn't for you.

[thelaurelhighlander]

(Pictured: EK Archery Jaguar crossbow 175 lb. Draw)

I may be hunting strictly with a crossbow this year, it's lighter, and less gear to carry, and I can quietly hunt without giving my location away. I can also hunt every season with one weapon, from the 1st bow season (October 3 to November 20), and late archery/flintlock season (December 26, 2026 - January 18, 2027) to regular rifle season (Saturday, November 28 - Sunday, December 13, 2026) with my archery tag. The only season I can't use a crossbow is antlerless muzzleloader season (October 17 - October 25, 2026). I'm also considering packing out the meat this season without having to drag it through the woods.

[thelaurelhighlander]

The ideal size for a hunting pack depends primarily on your trip duration. The standard rule of thumb being 1,000 cubic inches, or 15 to 20 liters of pack capacity per day.