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It's not possible to 'occupy' your own land!
Antiquities Authority attempts to solve mystery of Tomb of the Maccabees
In an effort to solve one of Jewish history’s greatest mysteries, the Israel Antiquities Authority recently sought to find the long lost Tomb of the Maccabees, believed to be located near Modi’in, between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.
Considering such a search to be of the highest national and scientific importance, the authority recruited volunteers to aid them to finally solve the riddle surrounding the final resting place of the renowned ancient Jewish warriors.
According to historical sources, the Maccabees – Matityahu the Hasmonean and his five sons, from the ancient city of Modi’in – led the uprising against Greek rule and were responsible for cleansing the impurity from the Second Temple. Read more.
Breaking lock in Modi'in
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Steel Door Modi'in
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Locksmiths Modi'in
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Rabbi Samuel M Cohon’s 4th Israel Pilgrimage Report, June 22 2014, #11 The Final One: Modi’in, a new place and an Amichai story
For our final day in Israel we had a special experience planned. Congregation Yozma in the growing Israeli city of Modi’in, midway between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, has a fabulous program with a local home for developmentally challenged children and young adults. They share Shabbat weekly with them, have a tutoring program for them (and others in the community), and work with them and prepare them for bar and bat mitzvah, which the children experience at the Kotel followed by a party at Yozma. There is a great deal of peer-to-peer teaching and sharing, and because of the yozma, the initiative of a lay leader, Yuval Newman, their leadership and their rabbinic team of Kineret Shiryon and Nir Barkin, and Executive Director Eyal Ronder, they have created a wonderful model for Reform Jewish living in Israel.
Yozma itself is a unique congregation. They chose to begin by making it a true community center rather than focusing on the synagogue aspects first, and became the first Reform congregation in Israel to receive their own land to build on. I visited Yozma first many years ago on an ARZA rabbinic mission, and at that time they were still trying to figure out how to find the means to build on the land before they lost the opportunity. Their ECE, their gan for preschool and kindergarten children, was very successful, and they wanted to eventually move to creating a Reform Jewish day school. It was clear even then, back in the 1990’s, that Modi’in was a perfect place to build a successful Reform Jewish entity in Israel. Modi’in has an ancient history as the small town where the Maccabees came from and where their revolt against the Syrian Greeks began in 167 BCE. But it was always a small town until recently.
Then, the Israeli government decided to encourage development in some centers aways from the Haifa-Tel Aviv-Jerusalem axis, spreading the population centers out. Beersheva in the Negev has grown exponentially. And Modi’in in the center, midway between the high tech, business, art and fashion center (and beaches—I saw a teen carrying a surfboard to the buss stop in Modi’in) of Tel Aviv and the government, financial and religious center of Jerusalem. Moshe Safdie, the architect of the Getty Center in Los Angeles, Hebrew Union College in Jerusalem, and many other beautiful modern buildings was contracted to design the entire city, an unusual and extraordinary opportunity. Modi’in is thus either beautiful and unified, if you like Safdie’s work, or a modernist nightmare, if you don’t. I like it a lot, and so did our group.
From an Israeli’s perspective, the Safdie-designed medium-sized, fast-growing city of Modi’in, with lots of park space, all new homes, very little crime and no slums, is a kind of yuppie-heaven. It is a bedroom community located in Israel proper, although close to areas that are technically in the West Bank, and it is less expensive, far less congested and stressed than Tel Aviv or Jerusalem or even Haifa. In some parts of Modi’in on a clear day you can see the Mediterranean, and the commute by train, bus, or car to jobs in Tel Aviv or Jerusalem might be 30 minutes. It is a very pleasant place, up in the hills so it’s not too hot in the summer, but not as high as Jerusalem so it’s not as cold as the capital city in the winter.
We began our visit to Modi’in with a stop at the construction site where their new day school is close to completion. It is a large building that will house over 500 students for grade school through middle school, with hopes to expand to a Reform Jewish high school eventually. Unlike Jewish day schools in the US this will be supported by the state, and it promises to be very, very successful, as their preschool has been, in creating Reform Jews in Israel. If most Israelis used to say that the only true form of Judaism they didn’t practice was Orthodoxy, today there is a growing population of young Jews who understand the Reform movement and like it very much—making it, as Rabbi Barkin said, the true form of Judaism they choose not to practice.
Our visit continued with a meeting with virtually the entire staff of Congregation Yozma, with the exception of the founding, Rabbi Kinneret Shiryon, who was in the US raising funds for the construction of their new sanctuary. Rabbi Nir Barkin, the very charming and articulate co-rabbi, a recovering high-tech veteran, explained the vision of Yozma as a community center in which they began with a very successful preschool, then created a place where Jewish activity was going on all the time. This is contrast to the Orthodox synagogues in Modi’in, of which there are a number, as always in Israel, staffed by government-funded rabbis, but they are generally empty except on Shabbat, and not so full even then. Yozma is a busy place, filled with learning, social action activities, simchas, and services. Clearly it is now a very successful congregation, and while much of the financial support continues to come from abroad, particularly America, it has become a magnet for positive, Reform Jewish identity in Erets Yisrael.
My family’s foundation, the Rabbi Samuel S. and A. Irma Cohon Memorial Foundation, gave a sizable grant to Yozma last year for their inspirational work with the children and young adults of Beit Eiden, the home for developmentally challenged in nearby Ramle, and the leader of their volunteer driven effort joined Rabbi Barkin in speaking about the program. We were presented with a beautiful mosaic created by one of the students in the program. It was quite moving for me, on behalf of my parents and my family, to accept it.
After a talk about Yozma’s history and vibrant Q & A about their congregation and its model and growth, we had the distinct pleasure of sharing Havdallah with their oldest pre-school class. It was a lovely service, about as long as our ECE Shabbat, and the children were engage, attentive, and unbelievably cute. The climax of the Havdallah was a presentation the class had been working on dramatizing the story of David and Goliath to an Israeli kids’ recording of the tale from the Tanakh. It was nothing short of fantastic.
After more dialogue with Rabbi Barkin and Eyal Ronder and the staff, and more refreshments—we have eaten very well and too much here in Israel!—we headed back to Jerusalem and talked about this upbeat finale.
While we were touring Saturday afternoon Doron told some of us a great story about the famous Israeli poet Yehudah Amichai. It seems that a few years ago two of Doron’s fellow guides were leading a teaching session with some visitors from Mexico, and they stopped in the Yemin Mosheh neighborhood to do a bit of learning. The subject was the contrast between the antique qualities of Israel and its current vibrant life, and how tourists miss it. To illustrate the point, they were reading the classic Amichai poem “Tourists” about a man bringing home groceries underneath a Roman arch and the tourists looking at the arch instead of the man. And as they read this poem who should walk up but Yehudah Amichai himself, who lived in Yemin Mosheh! One of the guides knew him, and he called out to Amichai, who stopped and actually read the poem for the stunned tourists himself, and then stayed to talk about it with them. The tourists were convinced the whole thing was staged, but it genuinely happened by chance.
We talked about that story, and the poem, and the fact that we had just seen vivid evidence that after all of our explorations under- and over-the surface of Israel, our immersion in its history and culture, what was most impressive was the incredible diversity and energy of contemporary Israeli life. We delved deep into the past, but it is the future embodied by the energy of those adorable children, and the markets, cafes, parades, religious services, and cultural centers, the concerts and the cacophonous chorus of the streets, that embody what Israel has come to mean to each of us over this pilgrimage.
At the Beit Ticho concluding dinner—more great food in yet another fascinating older area of the “New City” of Jerusalem—we shared what we each liked best or felt was most memorable about our experience in Israel. And each answer was different, and came from varying parts of the trip, and none was really predictable.
Neither is Israel. Each visit is unique, every one nearly miraculous in new and unexpected ways.
May we each return many times to Israel—this year was in Jerusalem. Perhaps next year, too!