#motor shield

[itssbcomponents-blog]

Motorshield for the Raspberry Pi

Design your own robot that is based on Raspberry Pi. It is possible with Raspberry Pi Motor Shield that is available online on SB Components shop online. Shop Now

[itssbcomponents-blog]

Control Your Stepper & DC Motors with Raspberry Pi Motor Shield

Learn how to Control Your Stepper & DC Motors with Raspberry Pi Motor Shield, Read this blog on SB Components to know more.

[ijtsrd]

Multiple Behaviour In Autonomous Robotic Vehicle

by Santosh. P | Vignesh. S | Suresh. S" Multiple Behaviour In Autonomous Robotic Vehicle" 

Published in International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development (ijtsrd), ISSN: 2456-6470, Volume-2 | Issue-3 , April 2018, 

URL: http://www.ijtsrd.com/papers/ijtsrd11506.pdf  

Direct URL: http://www.ijtsrd.com/computer-science/embedded-system/11506/ multiple-behaviour-in-autonomous-robotic-vehicle/santosh-p

indexed journal, ugc journal list, submit paper online

The advancement in mobile robotics in recent decades have inspired and cemented a belief that multiple autonomous robotic agents, often cooperatively helping the humans. In order to provide more generalized adaptive capability in dynamic environments, it is desirable to exclude as many detail assumptions as possible. In order to utilize autonomous mobile robots in real life, the ability of adapting themselves to the environment which change in determinately. Studies have been conducted applying diverse algorithms to robot control for the learning of motion rules and path planning in general environments. . Utilizing DNA programming, Kozza showed that robots can find out motion rules for roaming around grid spaces to get preys, with environmental information only. The robot's sensor information and position data relative to the obstacle is entered, classified to generate representative pattern, which in turn is entered into the Associative Memory to generate generalized motion rules. The desired destination can be determined with information the robot generates. 

[sirmixabot-blog]

SirMixABot's updated tech uses an Arduino mega, Adafruit motor shield, and SparkFun WiFi module to power and connect to devices.  A 3D printed electronics board keeps everything mounted securely beneath the action.  See more at www.SirMixABot.com

[fotophilosophy]

Update to First Robot

Update to First Robot

After making my first robot, I decided that it isn’t all that interesting. Sure, I could have refined the use of the ultrasonic sensor, but I wanted to a bit bigger. Enter the Pixy CMUCam5.

The Pixy CMUCam5 is an amazing piece of kit, with on-board vision processing.

I came across the camera through one of the robotics shops, and upon checking, realized that this was a successful kickstarted…

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[muellermh]

Projekt für 2017- #Arduino #Roboter

Projekt für 2017- #Arduino #Roboter

Eins meiner 2017 Projekte ist gestartet, “Erwin” lernt langsam das Laufen. Weitere Features kommen in den nächsten Tagen dazu.

Aktuell verfügt er nur über ein UNO Microcontroller, einem UltraSchall Messer und einem Motor Shield.

Hinzu kommt als erstes eine Bluetooth Anbindung um ihn manuell zu steuern und das autonome Fahren zu…

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[jdruid]

New Post has been published on DREW5.net

New Post has been published on http://drew5.net/2014/10/09/building-a-windows-phone-controlled-arduino-robot-part-1/

Building a Windows Phone Controlled Arduino Robot - Part 1

I am partnering with one of the universities near me to perform a few workshops to build a Windows Phone App to control an arduino robot via Bluetooth. I recently built an universal app that communicated to an arduino board to perform a little trivia game. It was fun and straightforward. I am bringing most of that underlying code over to controlling a robot. Here is what I got so far:

[youtube_sc url="kgzftiLK-Fo"]

Here are all the parts I got for the robot:

DFRobot 2WD Mobile Platform for Arduino Product Code: RB-Dfr-16 (RobotShop.com)

DFRobot Wheel Encoders for DFRobot 3PA and 4WD Rovers (2pk) Product Code: RB-Dfr-46 (RobotShop.com)

SunFouder 2 pcs Ultrasonic Module HC-SR04 Distance Sensor for Arduino UNO (Amazon.com)

Seeed Studio Motor Shield (local Radio Shack or online)

The first step was to assemble the bot.

After I built the bottom portion I realized I should solder the motor since it will be easier before it is assembled. So I took everything apart and stared that process.

Once soldering was done, I assembled the bottom portion again.

A few other things to note. The bottom plate seems like the roller ball should “drop” in. It is supposed to go under, since the battery pack sits on top. Unassembled again for me. There is a jack for either an external power supply or charger if the batteries were rechargeable. There was some articles online discussing adding a capacitor if a charger was going to be used. I did not want to add that since I did not have the right capacitors.

This is what the underside of the switch looks like after it is added.

Here is a diagram if you were to use the trickle charger option.

This was the wiring setup I used.

I originally used a seed studio shield that had grove connectors, which worked fine. However I did not want to deal with finding the connectors or making new connectors for the Bluetooth module

See video of the test. Everything worked!

[youtube_sc url="kgzftiLK-Fo"]

Next up, adding the Bluetooth module and building a Windows Universal App.

[tinkerpit]

So This is SMT

Up until this project, I've always done through-hole soldering.  But for this project, I knew the chip was surface mount, so I figured, why not make the whole circuit surface mount.

So what is the project? Well, over the holidays I played with this little tank-like robot.  My wife calls it "tank", I call it "battery-sucker 4000" (now sucking more than ever!)

Each of those IR leds is running at 60mA, and they are not configured in series at all.  Overall, there are 10 IR LEDs on this guy, all running all the time.  So for one thing, I need to rebuild the IR bars.  To run this guy, I have 4x AA's to run the motor, and a 9V to run the Arduino and logic circuits.  The Arduino has a motor shield on top, that has been slightly customized to eliminate the extra features (all jumpers are cut) and make it stack tighter (TinkerKit connections are gone).  I also cut the traces between the TK analog inputs and the analog pins to ensure no interference.  On top of the motor shield is a custom cap-shield that I made to distribute power and sensor headers.

The red/yellow wires run off to a switch.  The thin wires run off to a bluetooth serial adapter, which was added as an afterthought of course.  The double sided tape is where it was "attached" in the picture above.  If you look, you'll see that originally I designed it to take in 6V + 3V to supply 9V to the Arduino's Vin pin.  Because the motors killed the 6V source, I changed it to where they share GND and the Arduino gets a fixed 9V battery instead.

And that's where the problem lies.  My Arduino setup is pulling 600mA constant draw off that 9V battery.  Going thru the 7805 on the Arduino, that means I am wasting a constant 2.4 watts of energy thru the shunt regulator.  The 9V was falling rapidly.  In fact, within 10 minutes of playing the 9V cell was under 7V.

Time for a new cap, this time with a switching regulator instead of a linear regulator.  In my (admittedly not very thorough) search, I found the MAX1674 boost regulator.  In theory, capable of boosting 0.7V to 5V.  So I layed out a double sided board to handle the surface mount 1674 and components along with the through-hole headers.

The transfers were beautiful.  And my three alignment holes made sure I had both sides relatively in line.  So I transferred to both sides and took it to the etchant.  One thing I did do was fill in the large planes with a permanent marker on top of the toner.  After etching, I think the alignment holes and permanent marker both had a good effect.

Damn, I screwed up.  All of the header solder points should be on the other side.  Other than that, this is damned near perfect alignment and very little pitting in the copper.  Time for the fun part, putting it together.

Since I am limited to two hands, and at times I wasn't sure that was enough, there are no pictures during the assembly.  So here's some post assembly pictures.

Yes, I am that lame.  I called it the "Robo-Cap Shield".  For the most part, the SMT parts were easy to work with.  The 0402 caps and resistors were a little tricky at first and are so freaking tiny the hardest part was handling them, but I think I worked them out fairly well. The 0402's at the top of the first picture were the early ones, and tend to have more solder and are sloppier.  The 0805's are nice and easy.  The large caps were easier still.  Even the chip was easy.  The inductor wasn't hard, but once the solder bonded, the inductor core started acting as a heat sink.  Not wanting to damage the wire on the inductor, I didn't want to heat it enough to remelt the solder to straighten it out.  Luckily it doesn't need to be perfectly straight to work.

Half a dozen tests later, here is the finished product.  Yes, I cut too close to the edges and nearly took off my 6V sense wire on the top edge.  The bridge wire connects the "dirty" groundplane on the bottom with the "clean" groundplane on top.  The Arduino fills this role, but for testing I wanted the board to work on it's own (and I have corrected my drawings to include this connection).  I also removed the LED header in favor of some SMT LEDs on the right side.  Finally, I had to cut a chunk out of the corner so I could get to the screw terminals on the motor shield.

I definitely like SMT, but I think once I use the last of these 0402's, I probably will pick up 0805's or 0603's instead.

So far, this shield works good.  It powers the 5V Arduino from 2x AAA batteries and runs somewhere (theoretically) around 80-90% efficiency.  Now I just need to remake the IR bars.  One major change on this shield from the last one besides the regulator circuit: I included transistors to toggle power to the IR bars on the undercarriage header.  I also removed the track sensors.  Hopefully, when I finish the IR bars and put it back together, this robot may suck less than ever.