The following is a Field Trip Report of the Trinidad and Tobago Field Naturalists’ Club’s trip to Mt. Tabor. The trip was on 30th March, 2008 and is written by Damian Robinson. It is an excerpt from the TTFNC’s quarterly bulletin, The Field Naturalist, Issue No. 2/2008.
The March monthly field trip was to Mount St. Benedict, which is located on the southern facing slopes of the Northern Range. All of the twenty-five (25) members and guests that were present for this field trip finally gathered atop the mount at around 7:30 a.m. The brief delay arose when separate groups chose to park their vehicles at the Church and at the Top of the Mount complex respectively. The former group was furthest from the meeting point and encountered heavy rainfall en-route to the others, the day having begun very overcast and rainy. Once the groups converged and the rain lessened Professor Cooper got things going by pointed out a tarantula he had sighted on a nearby wall. After hearing a bit on their biology we descended from the car park to a well marked benched trail through the forest and commenced the St. Benedict field trip.
The dominant vegetation that was present at the beginning of the trail was mostly seasonal evergreen tropical forest, but with some remnants of a cocoa plantation. As the group made its way along the hillside trail we observed some sort of derelict water collection apparatus and structures in the valley bottom that appeared to be the former water supply for Mount St. Benedict. Rusted pipes lead from this water collection point to the Abbey. As we walked further up the trail we encountered the singing chirps of a Yellow-throated frog (Mannophryne trinitatis). This frog is in the same genus of the Bloody Bay Poison Frog (Mannophryne olmonae) which is endemic to Tobago. Dr Cooper explained that tests done on M. trinitatis found the chytrid fungus, Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis, which causes the amphibian disease chytridiomycosis. This disease may be responsible for the declining populations of M. olmonae, as that species is now critically endangered; habitat destruction may also be a contributing factor for its decline in Tobago. Various bats were also seen flying around under the forest canopy.
After trekking through the relatively dense forest, contrasting vegetation was entered, in which only stands of Caribbean Pine (Pinus caribaea) were present. This vegetation was planted as part of the Forestry Division’s reforestation programme. A forester once told me, whilst on an internship at the Forestry Divisions North-West Conservancy that different species of trees were initially used in reforestation projects, but the only one that survived the almost yearly dry season bushfires was the Caribbean Pine. Therefore this species was chosen for re-vegetating these once degraded and deforested hillsides. This ability to survive bushfires was evident in the area we were hiking, which appeared to have been recently ravaged by fire. The reduced undergrowth and leaf litter, burnt pine needles and scorched trunks were testimony to this. A Club member noted that one clear disadvantage of the planting of only this species, which is not native to Trinidad and Tobago, was the reduction in biodiversity typically seen in local natural forests. The area could well be described as being “ecologically dead” the vegetation having created a hostile environment for local fauna.
The trek up the steep Caribbean Pine hillside forest soon transitioned to gently sloping dense tropical forest, similar to that first encountered when the hike began. A caterpillar of an unidentified moth was found making its way along the foliage with its armour of long spiny bristles that extended from the body segments of alternating orange and black colours. In the distance we saw, through the undergrowth, what appeared to be a very well kept trail. These trails were almost smooth and are created and used by the leftcutter ants (Atta cephalotes) to forage for leaves which are transported back to the nests and used to cultivate a fungus that is a food source for the ants. Along or main tail we eventually reached a fork. One path lead down back to Mount St Benedict whilst the other lead up to the abandoned remains of a building. The ruins, which were said to be on the summit of Mt. Tabor, comprised mainly the foundation of the structure. This was the former residence of the Abbot. The only distinguishable architectural features of the remains were a retaining wall with buttress support and a chamber that someone could barely fit into. This chamber had a semi-circular arched ceiling made of stone. Within the remains of this structure one of the many tall trees that grew was of particular interest. When the bark was slashed with a cutlass, a dark red sap poured out that closely resembled real blood. This species, commonly known as the Blood-wood (Croton gossypiifolius) can be used for making colour dyes and has recently been discovered to have medicinal applications. The mango trees observed were indicative of the human influence in the forest. Some of the birds seen in this area include the Golden-headed Manakin (Pipra erythrocephala), Short-tailed Hawk, (Buteo brachyurus), Orange winged parrot (Amazona amazonica), and the White-Lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus).
When the rest at the Mt. Tabor summit, with all the wonders it gave us, was finished, the group commenced the walk down the hill, and more surprises awaited us. A few persons decided to follow the trail that went higher along the ridge. As we walked through the dense forest we entered an area where the understory was almost as tall as some of the people. The vegetation consisted mainly of ferns and small plants with wild flowers, which were lightly interspersed with palms and medium sized trees. Some plants of interest there were the Mountain Rose (Brownea latifolia) and various savannah flowers. What made walking through this area so relaxing, but surreal, was the heavy fog that hung low over us. It appeared as though we were in a cloud forest. The air was cool and every breath of it felt replenishing. The only thing missing from that landscape was the calm sound of a light breeze over the plants. Instead the sound of loud music emanating from the Maracas Valley below overwhelmed and polluted our senses. More birds were encountered here including the Turquoise Tanager (Tangara Mexicana) and the Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana).
More surprises greeted us when we walked further down the trail, away from the low vegetation and back once more into the reforested area of Caribbean Pine. What made this second encounter with the pines different from the earlier one, was the fog that was still hovering over the hills. The fog-filled pine forest is not the typical vegetation associated with Trinidad. The feeling when we walked through was as if we were in a totally different country, maybe in a whole different biome, where such imagery is the norm. As we progressed through the pine the rain started to fall heavily, just as we reached the Forestry Divisions fire tower. As some of us begun to bravely climb the eighty-eight (88) steps of the flimsy looking structure, we soon realised what a beautiful view was revealed once we were above the crowns of the pine forest. Even through the pouring rain, the panoramic view of the Caroni Plains, Swamp, the Central Range, and the San Fernando Hill, barely visible on the horizon overwhelmed us. The sights of all this really made Trinidad seem so small. After climbing down the stairs we walked the remaining short distance down the hill and back to the car park. At this point the day’s field trip to St. Benedict’s was over, and it was now time to be heading off to the Coopers’ residence where the Club was invited for some good old English tea and a fun game of cricket.
The Abbey of Mount St. Benedict situated 600 feet above sea level is a significant tourist attraction that provides spiritual guidance to Christians and Non-Christians. On the entrance to the monastery, there is a large sign written in Latin "PAX" meaning a "place where peace reigns". In October 2012, The Abbey of Mount St Benedict celebrated its 100th anniversary.
The history of Mount Saint Benedict goes back to 1911 when Abbot Dom Mayeul de Caigny of Brazil wrote to the Archbishop of Port_Of_Spain John Pius to establish a Benedictine foundation in Trinidad. The Archbishop granted permission and on the 17th January 1912, Dom Mayeul purchased a small estate located in the hills of Tunapuna from Mr Andrew Victoriano Gomez. Tunapuna, which means “the way of the water”, had no roads and to get there meant climbing the steep hills on foot. The Abbot became impressed by the splendid views and serene ambience. The asking price was 4000 pounds, and the first building was a Tapia Hut. The first Mass to be celebrated was on the 10th August 1913. During the period, 1912-1918, a church, guesthouse, workshop, living quarters and kitchen constructed. By 1918, the daily crowds increased to such an extent that the monks needed to find a more secluded place for recollection and study.
The monks looked at the nearby hilltops and Mt. Thabor situated at 1851 feet above sea level was the site chosen. This new monastery built to accommodate young monks studying theology and those seeking seclusion from the influx of daily visitors. By 1922, the mansion at Mt. Thabor contained fifteen rooms, a chapel, a large hall and two towers 40 feet high. Reserved on each side of the tower were the Papal Flag and the Union Jack, seen from miles around. A place for solitude and to visit the public had to obtain written permission. However, the difficulty to climb the high mountain and bring supplies caused the property to be abandoned. Today all left of this majestic structure is some concrete ruins. The wooden Tapia castle now destroyed by the rugged elements of nature. Mount St. Benedict became an Abbey in February 1947 and on 3rd June 1947 Dom Adelbert van Duin a monk stationed there became the first Abbot. His motto "to be at the service to all" and he received his abbatial blessing from Archbishop Finbar Ryan on 16 June 1947.
Over the years, the hilltops that surround Mt. St Benedict are venerable to bush fires and to preserve the forest the forestry division replanted pine trees. The uphill walk to the Pines where Mt Thabor situated will take 40 minutes. At the summit, the grandeur of the towering pine trees and the peaceful atmosphere feels like no other. The soothing mountain breeze blowing across the valley creates a relaxing sensation. There are fantastic and breath-taking views of Maracas St. Joseph countryside, the East –West Corridor and the Central Plains. On the compound, there is cafeteria and gift shop to assist in the up keeping of the church. Mt St Benedict also distributes yogurt and once known for having the best honey.
Hiking time to the top 40 minutes
Downhill return: 20 minutes
Rating: 3 Fair {going uphill with a downhill return}
This is a drive through of the directions found here and I’ll explain what goes on in the video.
Firstly, the driver is approaching from the east on the Eastern Main Road and before he turns right (north) onto St. John’s Road, you can briefly see the Scotiabank branch on his right. He then proceeds along St. John’s Road until he reaches a junction where there is a white cross and brown directional sign indicating Mt. St. Benedict (around 2:21) on the left. Taking this road, he continues past the entrance to the church and at around 4:50, he comes to the Drug Rehabilitation Centre. You can park your vehicle outside there because, as shown, the rest of the road is usually blocked. At 5:35, he looks towards the dilapidated and abandoned St. Benet’s Hall which has a paved area by the front staircase. The end of the trail is immediately to the rear of the paved area on the left side. Driving further along, the road becomes unpaved and ends around 6:25 in the vicinity of a telecommunications tower. The trail then starts at the end of the road.
The remainder of the video shows him driving along the trail to the fire watchtower and the views from the top of it.
The Mt Tabor Loop which is also known as the Mount St. Benedict Short Bird-watchers’ Loop is a circuit which goes traverses the south western and south eastern spurs of Mt. Tabor but does not actually reach its summit. Nonetheless, the southwestern spur is one of the most recognizable features in the northern range due to its pine covered face and from the ridge, there are spectacular views of the surrounding areas especially if you take a climb up the fire watchtower.
The trail passes through pine plantations and evergreen forest. The pine trees which are mostly fire resistant were planted as a reforestation project due to the hills being constantly ravaged by bush fires. As such, be careful when hiking during the dry season.
Difficulty: 4 - Moderate
Time: 2 hours but could take 3 hours if the trail isn’t cleared
Distance: 3.6 km
The trail along the spurs is steep so it’s a good workout. It’s a lovely hike if the trail is cleared but if it isn’t, it can be quite frustrating since you’ll have to be clearing razor grass. Don’t recommend that you do the full loop unless you’re with a hiking group but doing the southwestern spur up to the ridge by itself (which will take about an hour one way) is definitely worth it.
Useability: Complex
The loop gets a complex rating due to the path on the southeastern spur being completely overgrown and unrecognizable on most occasions due to bush fires every dry season which allows razor grass to regrow everywhere. On the first occasion I tried the loop and attempted to clear the path (I didn’t know the trail disappeared), I got at least 100 cuts all over my arms and legs as I wore regular shorts and a jersey (learnt the hard way why its called razor grass). However, for the southwestern section, it’s a clear route up the spur and along the ridge until you meet a bracken fern patch where I suggest you turn back and just relax among the pines.
Accessibility: Straightforward
Refer to the following post for more details:
Getting To: Mt Tabor Loop
Getting To: Mt Tabor Loop (Video)
Safety: Safe
I know people who do this hike as an afternoon workout by themselves but as usual, I suggest that you go with at least another person. Vehicles should be safe and I’ve left my car overnight at the end of the road as well without any trouble.
Mt. St Benedict is a monastery nestled on the southern face of the Northern Range of Trinidad. At the end of the road leading to the monastery, the trail for the Mt. Tabor Loop begins as a small track next to a cell tower site. From there, it is a straightforward journey to the ridge. As it is a loop, you can start at the other end which is located to the north-west of St. Benet's Hall (which is also near the end of the road). However, I don't recommend that you start at the latter point nor continue past the pine trees on the trail from the original trail head due to that section of the trail being overgrown.
To get to the trail head if you are driving, proceed along the Eastern Main Road between Tunapuna and St. Augustine and turn north onto St. John's Road. There is a brown directional sign indicating the direction to Mt. St. Benedict but the more recognizable landmark is the Scotia Bank building at that junction. Heading west, you will pass the Tunapuna Police Station and Auzonville Mall while heading east, you will pass Lakshmi Girls Secondary School before that junction. Continue up St. John's Road until you see the turnoff to Mt. St Bendict on the left as indicated by a street sign. Follow this road till the end passing the church and drug rehabilitation centre. Sometimes the road continuing to St. Benet's Hall is chained off but it's only a short walk from that point to the trail head.
If you're traveling, you can get a taxi to the church at the corner of St. John's Road and the Eastern Main Road. Don't know how regular these nor if you can get one easily from the church down the mountain. However, there is a shuttle to the church which should be willing to accommodate hikers.
The trail on the eastern spur of the loop is covered by razor grass so I don’t suggest you do the full loop unless you’re ready to clear the trail. However, the western leg up to the ridge which is surrounded by pine trees is a lovely hike that can be done by itself with great views of the Central plain and Maracas Valley
