Optimizing climbing training for beginners
Climbing beginners who have fallen into the sport usually ask the same question in the courses: "How do I get better / stronger?" By this they actually mean how do I manage to climb one or several grades more difficult routes.
The classic answer from most climbing instructors or from friends and acquaintances: “Climb a lot and try different routes and gain experience.” I just think that statement is bullshit. See link: Classifying your own training Attentive readers will now notice a resemblance to the older article (Correctly classifying your own training). But there it is about the correct interpretation of the inner voice. However, this is about proper planning for improvement in training. Beginners who are enthusiastic about climbing want to switch from the 4th to the 5th degree and feel more comfortable there in the lead, finish more routes or maybe even slowly get a taste of the 6th degree. This is the starting position. (I'm not talking about a 7th degree and more, because this content is not designed for that.)
Generalizing a workout is difficult.
What applies to one probably does not apply to the other. But I'm trying to give a reasonable insight into an optimized climbing training for beginners.
Let's take Max. He's just completed his lead climbing course and wants more. Much more climbing, on rock, on plastic and of course heavier grades. Max climbs solidly every 5a in the lead. From 5b it is usually difficult to climb several routes. 5c is not easy to do and Max is physically exhausted afterwards.
Max has a job with 40h, a partnership (that doesn't climb) and is in the tennis club where he plays once a week with friends for fun.
Max is now asking me: how can I get better? My first counter-question to Max: "How much time can you spend climbing AND how much time per week for training?" The answer is usually the same. Yes, 1 or 2 times is fine.
Why do I want to know? The first step is to realistically limit the time I have available for climbing / training. Only then can I set my goals and plan. For beginners, 1-2x a week is great (although ambitious). You have to find a constant rhythm. Going mentally empty to a workout after a long day at work is just as inefficient as after a liquid night out with friends. Time and consistency are required in order to achieve the goals that have been set.
So the advice to Max will be: 1.) attach importance to the quality of the content of the training 2.) do a lot of endurance training 3.) supplement the climbing training
The quality of the content of climbing training
Training is not the same as training! Sounds funny but that's how it is. Going into the hall and climbing (aimlessly) to death makes no sense in the long term. Always having glowing hands is often the wrong fallacy of quality. (Unless it's aligned with your goal in training.) My training plan for Max, who climbs / trains twice a week, looks like this:
With 2 fixed days (Tuesday & Friday) we create continuity. At least 8 routes are climbed per training day! (10 or more would be better.) The routes are climbed by lead or top rope.
Training day 1 (QUALITY)
For the lead: the top is not the goal! It is MUST DO here to attach importance to the foot technique, grip technique, posture (3-point), latching technique (speed) and finding possible resting positions.
>> Every single point should be specially trained here <<
The following applies to top rope climbing: the top is not the goal at all! MUST DO is trying new routes that have completely different grips that require completely different movement patterns. Understand (not finish!) the complexity of harder grades. To internalize what is still missing. Climbing positive walls to train foot safety. Getting into the overhang to train body tension and shoulder strength.
Training day 2 (ENDURANCE)
On this day as many routes as possible should be made. Endurance is the order of the day. Max always climbs 1-2 degrees below his max level. That would be 4c. There are not that many 4c routes, so we cheat a bit and start with 5a. Blocks are climbed here at intervals. Always more and longer. For the beginner Max it would be enough if he could do 3x3 routes in grade 5a during endurance training in the first month. Means: 3x 5a without a break in lead/top rope doesn't matter - about 10 minutes break between - 3 sets in total. This form of training is also perfect for toppas climbing. Max should go through the whole thing for at least 8 weeks.
Training day 3 (BALANCE)
Fuck where did the day come from? In addition to the two weekly training units, however, Max has to complete balancing exercises once a week. That means stretching and exercises to strengthen your shoulders, core and pelvic muscles. Every player (muscle) has an opponent and he wants to be trained to avoid bad posture!
Troubles
The problem that Max doesn't see at first is this: Climbing isn't just about torturing yourself, just training and waiting to get better. Climbing is much more about spending quality time with people and having fun. To discover climbing routes (plastic or rock), to be in nature. However, climbing must be seen as a process. The more I invest, the more I get out. Often it is also important to exchange a training session for a climbing session with friends. No question. However, completing only 4-8 units of an 8-week training plan with 16 units does not really get you any further.
The following can be generalized:
1x climbing a week for beginners will just keep your level but will not improve it. Of course it's better than nothing. Climbing is too complex to constantly improve with 4x climbing a month. Your mind can't get used to it, your muscles don't get enough exercise and your movements (experience) remain the same.
2x training / climbing a week for beginners will improve your level. The head/mind will benefit, the body/muscles will adjust and the experience will grow. This is where you start to improve.
3x training / climbing a week is perfect. However, it requires planning and precise goal setting. What exactly do I want to train for? In this sense.
Have fun stay tuned & ask :)