Today we embark on the sole reason we are in Portmagee, to head out to see the Skelligs... and we are off to a rough start. Literally a rough start. Apparently the seas are too choppy for the boats to make the 8 mile trek out to the Islands. When the seas are this way they commonly cancel. So we wait around for a couple hours until we find our Captain, Pat Joe Murphy is like a damn honey badger and DNGAF! We’re going.
It is funny... on the way out that the people who were complaining the most about the boats being delayed are now the ones that are trying not to puke as we take on the waves out to the island. I laugh and sit back and enjoy the ride, watching some dolphins along the way.
Then we see them. Way out in the middle of nowhere, two large rocks. One looks like snow capped mountains. We later find out that it is bird poop and the one island, “Bird Island,” is home to thousands of birds. Seriously it is insane. I kept looking at it and thought it was CGI. The birds were swarming everywhere. Fascinating.
Next our boat gets in line for Skellig Michael (yes the place where Star Wars was filmed though I couldn’t really care less). We make our way over. Getting onto the rock is a feat as you are tossed about. You wait until the perfect moment that the boat rocks up and are pushed by one captain and pulled by another onto the rock.
We head on up. The hike is no joke at about a 45 degree angle. There are no hand rails and the rock is cut out of the earth by monks. This is not for the faint of heart. Bad knees or ankles? You are going to have a hard time getting down.
We finally make it to the summit and find the beehives where the monks lived. It is interesting to see that they developed a plumbing system and community on a big rock in the middle of the damn ocean. You truly scratch your head as you try to figure out how they did it. Truly amazing.
On our way out we find a tombstone for a Patrick Callahan. That is the name of Tammy’s brother. We make jokes and go on. We have to get back down the rock before our boat leaves and Tammy is concerned about making it down, so she does so on her rear. Safely at the bottom we have the same tricky boarding of the boat and we are on our way back. We arrive safely, thanks Pat Joe, and get going to our next destination.
So I have a little something up my sleeve. I have found an O’Callaghan’s pub on the way to Blarney where we are staying for the night. What I did not expect is for the GPS to route us to another one that I didn’t know about, however I’m so happy that it did. We went in and met the owners of the tiny, rural pub. They were just the sweetest. I took in the scenery while Tammy talked to, I don’t know... probably her cousin. We finished our beer and they went outside to take a photo together. Such kind people. Was soooo happy to get to meet them.
Determined to find the pub that I actually knew about I tried again and luckily found it. This was a much larger establishment, but still in the middle of nowhere. We headed in and had a couple more beers. We also met the owner of the pub and the pub dog. She gave us some business cards and a magnet for Tammy. We walked over to the actual bar for another beer and ran into some characters. I discussed with them how they are like the Randy Smock’s of Ireland and they all now worship Randy. Probably need to let Randy know that he now runs a cult. They try to keep us there but I insist that we leave as it is getting late and we need to get checked into our BNB.
We head on out and then find our way to Blarney and the Muskerry Arms Pub. Now this is not my first time here. MJ and I ate here last time we were in Blarney, however this is my first time staying and I could not be more happy I did. The owner of pub, Jerome, invited us in and got us a much needed beer. I know. I know. We have had several before this, but it was the wind down of the day. He was so very kind and told us the history of the bar. Tammy noted her ancestry and he felt ever so keen on showing her maps about the bar with information on them regarding her family. We headed back to the bar and of course decided to buy yet another shirt. This time, Jerome handed us the keys and told us to go up to the office to get what we wanted. Seriously... this would not happen in Chicago. We did and came back down. He came over and talked to us between customers, before we finished up and headed up for sleep.
For real though if you go to Blarney or anywhere around Cork for that matter, do yourself a favor and stay here. The hospitality is unmatched. I have referred another couple friends here and they loved it as well. Fabulous place and Jerome is amazing.
Sleep comes fast tonight. Can’t wait to start the day again tomorrow. Beginning just now to really miss my cat.
