#oceanhighway

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[nairobridge]

A True Ocean Highway

When someone mentions the ocean highway most people think of Route 1 in California. The epic roadway cuts along the Pacific coastline, rewarding drivers with incredible views of the rocky shore below. Today the road is mainly a tourist attraction as most commercial traffic bypasses the Pacific Coast Highway via Interstate 5.

However, unlike Route 1 in California, the ocean highway in Zanzibar, Tanzania is a thriving commercial expressway. This road is not really a road at all, but a well-worn trail of hard-packed white sand abutting the vast Indian Ocean. In addition to serving as a playground for vacationers, the makeshift road serves as the major thoroughfare for local residents. Fishermen ply the waters next to the ocean highway, prepping and selling their catch alongside the road. Women and young girls farm seaweed during low tide and use the ocean highway as a conduit to the local marketplace. Bikes, bodas-bodas, and dune buggies race across the sand track carrying goods for sale and people in motion. It is hard not to be amazed by life in Paje—where seemingly little has changed since people inhabited Zanzibar Island over 20,000 years ago.

Adjacent to this busy ocean highway is a stunning coral reef, dotted by residents on the hunt for food. I joined them early on Saturday morning, wading into the bathtub-warm water in search of tropical sea creatures. On the long walk out on the reef I spotted starfish the size of a soccer balls, sly clownfish, and way too many sea urchins. Navigating the urchin minefield was tricky and dodging their sharp spikes almost impossible. Despite sore feet and wrinkled hands, the reef walk was spectacular.

I am now back in Nairobi. I have swapped out my swimsuit for a sweater—as the temperature has dropped from 80 to 60 degrees—and traded a caprahinia for a green tea. I leave Kenya in a little over a week. The time has truly flown.