#ouryompacrossengland

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Wainright’s Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 12. From Glaisdale to Robin Hoods Bay 

The final day of our walk, 19 miles to cover. 

A harder day than anticipated but we made it. We arrived in Robin Hoods Bay shortly after 1600 today with quite a sense of achievement.  

We set off in sunshine from our very comfortable B & B at about 0830 after a good sleep, a   bowl of porridge and a cup of coffee. 

Glaisdale is a very hilly village but it wasn't long before we were in the woods again following the pretty River Esk and the local railway line. We made good progress to the beautifully maintained estate village of Egton Bridge and the church “the Reformation forgot” dedicated to St. Hedda.  

On to Grosmont and it's well maintained period railway station and steam trains. A very steep road out of Grosmont took us to Eskdaleside cum Ugglebarnby and ancient stone circles.  

At Littlebeck we entered Scarry Wood and passed the Hermitage, a rock hollowed out in 1754 for a schoolmaster George Chubb but  no one seems to know why or for what purpose. We took tea at the renovated Midge Hall close to the Falling Foss waterfall, ready for a break. 

Across Seaton moor where the track was difficult to follow.  This area was bombed very heavily in WW2 thanks to a decoy town resembling Middlesborough being built there. 

After Hawkser the road took us down to waves breaking onto rocks and the final three mile of cliff top trail to Robin Hoods Bay past Pursglove Stye Batts, Clock Case Nab, Bulmer Steel Hole and Ness Ruck to our destination. After checking in we set off again to the shore to dip our boots in the North Sea and to leave our pebble, collected 12 days ago at St Bees.

Looking North,

South towards Robin Hoods Bay, a picturesque quaint seaside town. 

All that remains is to rest this evening and find our way to York tomorrow. Time to reflect on our walk Coast to Coast. And to start thinking about our 2016 Challenge wherever that might be. 

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Wainright's Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 11. Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale

We were woken with a cup of good coffee at 7am this morning. 

Our boots had been either on the Aga or close to it and, although not perfectly dry were much dryer than they had been last evening when we poured water our of them. The dog, Mack, had clearly had a tussle with one of mine, judging my the teeth marks. 

Breakfast took a little longer than expected due to the fact that our host and former Green Beret and Special Services Sgt Major, still had stories to tell. But we were on our way by 9 am and climbing up to the moor. We were kitted out in waterproof trousers from the start today and soon added jackets. 

As we climbed, mist thickened and it began to rain.  Visibility down to 50 m in places. The wind strengthened too as we started along Carr Moor. Rain and wind were with us all morning and into the afternoon. 

Our path followed the disused Victorian Mineral Railway which transported ironstone and jet years ago. Tracks and sleepers long gone, now part of the Coast to Coast and Cleveland Way walks and a good road for exclusive Grouse shooting parties on the Faversham estate.  

We arrived at the busy Lion Inn around midday soaked and cold to mingle with other C2C walkers we recognized huddled over mugs of tea and bowls of soup.   Once all the heat had been extracted from our mugs we set off again, powerful wind in our faces.  By 2.30 or so the wind dropped and the rain ceased.  The sun began to shine just as we arrived at the picturesque Fryup Dale.  And we managed to get our first glimpse of the North Sea as we entered Glaisdale.

Our lodgings are a short distance off the trail but easy to find. A cup of tea and a slice of lemon cake on hand from our host as we arrived. My boots are spending the night in the airing cupboard stuffed with newspaper. Eighteen miles completed today. 

Tomorrow we reach Robin Hoods Bay and the conclusion of our Coast to Coast walk across England. The weather should be better, there's a lot to see and do on this final 19 mile section.  After a good sleep. 

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Wainright's Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 10. From Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top

We left our lodgings at 8 am for a 6 hour walk to Clay Top Bank, over the North Yorkshire Moors.  It was a dark, grey, windy morning so we donned waterproofs and I gave the boots an extra layer of wax. Our route was not easy to follow resulting in several mis starts, but we eventually got into a good stride. Sure enough we encountered rain but not so much. And walking in waterproofs is slower and less comfortable, so by lunchtime we decided to revert to shorts and T shirt.  There was plenty of dark cloud about but we had more sun than shadow. 

For considerable lengths of this section there are flag stone pavements which are very convenient for walking. 

Three walks merge here; the Cleveland Way, the Lyke Wake Walk and our Coast to Coast, so this is quite a busy section.  As expected we met with a group, a number of individual walkers and several couples, only one of which we had seen before. 

Once in our stride and on the route we quickly covered ground, hot in our waterproof gear. 

Heather is just starting to bloom on the Moor.  There is an unmistakable pleasant perfume of heather and peat in the air. The stiff breeze was perhaps too much for wildlife and we saw no grouse. 

We had a cup of tea at Lord Stones cafe, a popular place with hikers, en route and removed our rain gear. We set off again for the final 6 km and shortly after we began to climb up to Cringle Moor the weather took a severe turn and it began to rain very large, cold drops and the wind became a gale. We were stuck and drenched with no alternative but keep going.  Eventually the rain subsided but at Garfit Gap it returned with a vengeance. What was to be an afternoon of wonderful scenery became one of struggling onward to the end with safety our primary consideration. At one point we sheltered on the leeward side of a large rock which provided some relief.  The Wainstones were very hard work in these conditions but we took our time. 

We eventually made it to Clay Bank Top where our host Robin collected us and took us to his farmhouse for tea and biscuits and a hot bath. Warm again and no worse for our adventure. Boots drying on the Aga, clothes washed and dry for morning. 

We had a bowl of excellent hot mushroom soup at the Buck Inn and now it's time to sleep. Only two days until we reach Robin Hoods Bay. 

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Wainright's Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Days 8 & 9. From Reeth to Richmond, from Richmond to Ingleby Cross

Landscape - Mary Oliver

Isn't it plain the sheets of moss, except that they have no tongues, could lecture all day if they wanted about

spiritual patience? Isn't it clear the black oaks along the path are standing as though they were the most fragile of flowers?

Every morning I walk like this around the pond, thinking: if the doors of my heart ever close, I am as good as dead.

Every morning, so far, I'm alive. And now the crows break off from the rest of the darkness and burst up into the sky—as though

all night they had thought of what they would like their lives to be, and imagined their strong, thick wings.

After a good sleep and civilized breakfast at the Burgoyne we hit the trail again at 9 am for the short walk to Richmond. Continuing to follow the river Swale through productive meadows supporting primarily sheep flocks a suckling beef herds.  

Reeth was alive long before we left with cyclists and hikers setting off for a day of exercise in the Dales, gently rolling countryside, fields recently mown for hay or silage. Colorful meadows yellow with buttercups and a wide variety of fescues and aromatic Timothy. 

Marrick Priory, now home to an outdoor pursuit school and not accessible, tower visible for miles. Hedgerows full of delicate white and pink wild roses, anthers ready to give pollen freely and stamens hopeful to receive pollen from elsewhere. Busy bees.   Young lambs being conditioned for late summer sales.  We surprised a cock pheasant, causing a noisy garbled exit, a confusion of colorful feathers.

Good conditions for walking in spite of rain forecast for early afternoon, cool, overcast, a gentle breeze. Stopped for tea and flapjack opposite the old church of St Edmund the Martyr in Marske, the halfway point.  A good location for hikers to congregate. Service in progress hymns being sung by a small congregation barely audible led by a reedy organ. 

We arrived in Richmond at 2pm where a number of fellow Coast to Coasters were already enjoying refreshment in afternoon sunshine. Richmond boasts a castle, a Georgian theatre and a multitude of historical sites. An interesting town that deserves a longer visit than time permits. Friends Andy and Elaine traveled from Baildon and met us at 3 at the obelisk in the church square.  We hadn't seen each other since 1994 when they visited us in Poland. Andy, the first friend I ever had.  We grew up together, attended Woden Avenue Primary School and Wolverhampton Grammar School together.  A true friend, no question.   We visited a remarkable wild garden in the centre of town, the castle now ruins, and had ice creams late in the afternoon, dinner at a Thai restaurant. Good to see them both. Plenty of hearty laughter.  Thoughts of friends and family.  Hard to say goodbye.

Monday morning, sunshine greeted us and we set off on the longest stretch of the entire walk, 23 miles in prospect.  We followed the river for a while then headed east and left Richmond behind.  Over fields, along tracks and minor roads to the A1 trunk road at Catterick and hurried past the race course and barracks, not a place to linger. On to the White Swan at Danby Wyske for a light lunch, overcast now and threatening rain and only half way tour destination. A couple of rain showers during the afternoon forced us into our rain gear.

We arrived at 5.30 pm, (in spite of having to cross the A19 which is no mean feat) in time tea and scones with our host. Tired, we showered and took a few minutes rest then off to the Bluebell Inn down the road with 2 Australian hikers, 2 other couple, two lone men and a mum & son team. No sign of the American couple we passed earlier in the day, we are all rather concerned about them. 

We now have less than 50 miles to go to until we reach Robin Hoods Bay. 3 days left. Tomorrow we climb to the North Yorkshire Moors for the final leg. 

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Wainright's Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 7. From Keld to Reeth

“We need to find God, and he cannot be found in noise and restlessness. God is the friend of silence. See how nature – trees, flowers, grass – grows in silence; see the stars, the moon, and the sun, how they move in silence… we need silence to be able to touch souls.” - Mother Teresa

Although we walked to Keld yesterday we were required to overnight in Kirkby Stephen due to a deficit of rooms. Our sleep was disturbed by the sound of severe wind and rain and we woke to torrential rain and thunder. The rain had eased somewhat by the time we reached Keld but visibility was no more than 100m. We therefore elected to take the lower route following the river Swale through Swaledale rather than the high road and the remains of 19th century lead mining and “hushing” that irrevocably devastated the landscape.

It rained most of the morning, that heavy drizzle that finds its way through layers no matter what.

We had a welcome refreshment stop at the halfway point, a pot of tea, shortbread and flapjack to keep us going provided by the Ghyllfoot tearoom.

Upper Swaledale is a peaceful haven for wildlife. Other than the pattering of rain on our hoods the only sounds were the river rippling over rocks and birds singing or noisily warning us to stay away from their nests. And sheep of course. Otherwise, peace and tranquility to accompany beautiful green countryside of Swaledale. 

Reeth is an attractive village and a very popular destination for day trippers and walkers. Today there was some sort of long distance and very popular bicycle race going on. The only option here at the Burgoyne, our comfortable overnight accommodation was a four course non vegetarian event so we enjoyed a very good early bite at the Copper Kettle across the green instead. A later start tomorrow and a short hike from Keld to Richnond. 

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Wainright's Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 6. From Kirkby Stephen to Keld

William Blake c. 1808

And did those feet in ancient time Walk upon England’s mountains green: And was the holy Lamb of God, On England’s pleasant pastures seen!

And did the Countenance Divine, Shine forth upon our clouded hills? And was Jerusalem builded here, Among these dark Satanic Mills?

Bring me my Bow of burning gold; Bring me my Arrows of desire: Bring me my Spear: O clouds unfold! Bring me my Chariot of fire!

I will not cease from Mental Fight, Nor shall my Sword sl eep in my hand: Till we have built Jerusalem, In England’s green & pleasant Land

We have left the Lake District behind and today we walked onto the North Yorkshire moors, interesting but completely different. 

 We ended the day at Keld. Not really a village, a small hamlet. With a pub come hotel. A shorter walk but enough. The sun was hot as we left the Jolly Farmer B&B a bit later than usual.

Passing the parish church (perhaps the largest in Cumbria) where both Catholic and Anglican services are held.

 A steep climb out of Kirkby Stephen to Hartley Fell, then due east to the Nine Standings, skirting Rollinson bog and Hagg bog. 

 The Nine Standings are a remarkable sight. When or why they were built is unclear but they have stood up to centuries of weather, more or less. Then on over bog and grouse butts to Ravenstonedale.

Abandoned farms litter the route, testament to the drive for efficiency and a standardized product. Fewer sheep than yesterday. 

We stopped at Ravenseat for tea.  This farmer and his family are cel rites of some note making frequent TV appearances. 

An excellent meal at the Black Bull. Mushrooms with pasta and a light cream sauce, then lentil shepherds pie with cheese potatoes. 

There is a fine glass etching in the church depicting the stoning of St Peter by the artist that made the famous etching in Coventry cathedral.

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Wainright's Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 5. Shap to Kirkby Stephen

A long walk in prospect today, over 20 miles. A good, rejuvenating sleep will help us on our way. Hopefully adequately rehydrated. The walk today should be easier, we need an gentle day. It has rained overnight, lightening over the fells we walked yesterday, a spectacular show. Today feels warm but it’s overcast which will help us. Our faces are burnt from the altitude winds of yesterday. I have rubbed the skin off my right heel which looks nasty. Otherwise, ignoring a few muscular irritations and sore shoulders, we are holding up well. Looking forward to stoking the engine with a good breakfast, we didn’t feel up to eating much last night.

Shap lies on the A6 which used to be the main north south trunk road before the M6 was built. The village is run down now, with fewer visitors but this B&B is making a go of it. A very big beef and sheep farm was carting wilted grass to a silage clamp until dark trying to beat the rain. Big tractors and trailers growling into the night.

We arrived at the Jolly Farmer in Kirkby Stephen sometime after 5 pm. This leg took a little longer than expected having left Shap just after 8am. We received a very friendly welcome from the proprietors mother, hot buttered scones with homemade raspberry jam and a lot of hot tea. Perfect. We were extremely fortunate with the weather today. 

Overcast, cooler and a good breeze. There was rain on the hills around us but were dry apart from some misty rain and raindrops towards the end but not enough to warrant waterproofs. We walked 20 miles but only climbed about 500m. Nothing too taxing today. We walked the length of Shap, the village just waking up as left then turned off the A6 to cross the main railway line and the M6 via a purpose built footbridge. Cars and heavy lorries noisily pounding their way north and south creating a constant angry roar. The trod followed the motorway a mile or two to the east over the course of a Roman road and Crosby Ravensworth Fell, past the improbably named Robin Hoods Grave, skirting the village of Orton to Scar Side. 

Here we met a farmer (on his four wheeler) and his ancient mother moving two sick cows and three calves to a field. A dairy farmer with no son to carry on farming, that plans to stop milking next year.

 The farm, like so many others, unable to justify the huge investment to become larger and more efficient. 

 Milk prices are at the same level as they were when I milked cows in the late 70s. I hadn’t realized how global the milk market has become but lower exports to China are impacting UK farmers and milk co-ops are struggling to survive. A very friendly pair and a pleasure to talk to for a few minutes. Onward past Great Ashby Scar National Nature Reserve and ancient settlement. This entire route is littered with settlements, stone circles and cairns. 

 We have left the Lake District National Park behind and will enter the Yorkshire Dales National Park tomorrow. Predominately sheep farming on this moorland heath but the flocks look in good condition, ewes recently shawn with fat lambs. 

According to another farmer there is no value in wool and sheep are sheered for their comfort. We came across a dismantled single track railway line and a stone bridge at Smardale and the wonderful Smardale viaduct in the distance.

Today's walk has reminded me of this poem by Ted Hughes.

“Hawk Roosting”

I sit in the top of the wood, my eyes closed. Inaction, no falsifying dream Between my hooked head and hooked feet: Or in sleep rehearse perfect kills and eat.

The convenience of the high trees! The air’s buoyancy and the sun’s ray Are of advantage to me; And the earth’s face upward for my inspection.

My feet are locked upon the rough bark. It took the whole of Creation To produce my foot, my each feather: Now I hold Creation in my foot

Or fly up, and revolve it all slowly – I kill where I please because it is all mine. There is no sophistry in my body: My manners are tearing off heads –

The allotment of death. For the one path of my flight is direct Through the bones of the living. No arguments assert my right:

The sun is behind me. Nothing has changed since I began. My eye has permitted no change. I am going to keep things like this.”

Excerpt From: Hughes, Ted. “New and Selected Poems.” Faber and Faber, 2010. iBooks.

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Wainright’s Coast to Coast Walk 2015

Day 4.  From Patterdale to Shap.

We are feeling very tired this evening, so we are taking it easy.  We arrived after 5 pm just as the Royal Mail train was effortlessly speeding through Shap.  We left Patterdale at around 8 this morning, so it has been another long day. 

Shap is a dairy farming town very close to the M6 motorway, the major UK north / south transport artery. The remains of Shap Abbey still stand here, badly knocked about by Henry the Eighth.  We are staying at the New Ing Lodge but we too tired to take advantage of the facilities.  But we are finally able to have our laundry taken care of.  

We climbed steeply out of Patterdale with a gaggle of other walkers. But we soon straggled out along the trod. A small group of students seemed to be struggling from the beginning. Another couple were taking it very slowly. I was trying to pace myself too, knowing that today would be another long, hard climb.  We had an addition to our party today.  Her husband wasn't feeling well and she wanted to complete the course so she came along with us. 

It was already hot as we climbed out of Patterdale, past the well maintained church (where Methodist and Anglican congregations have combined services) and the pub where we had had dinner last evening. 

We climbed to Stony Rigg with views of Glennridding and Ullswater behind us, to Angletarn Pikes and Angle Tarn to the Knott and Kidsty Pike then down to Haweswater reservoir. 

A dry wind was gusting with force on the tops which, combined with the very hot sun, felt like a fan assisted oven sucking any moisture out of any living thing, including us.  

We walked the length of the Haweswater reservoir along the northern shoreline, then on past the the reservoir head and the small homes built for construction workers and their families. Pretty little cottages that were built for short term occupancy but are still in use, cared for and well maintained.

By the time we arrived at the New Ing every step was an effort. Early to bed to ensure as much recovery time as possible before we leave for Kirkby Stephen, 20 miles east.  

Look out for an edit tomorrow with photos.