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Motor Monday: OK so these aren’t technically part of the motor, more like an extension of the motor. Or, another way to describe it is the means by which the motor transfers what it does into motion. Dual outdrives from a bad ass twin engine Water Ski Race Boat

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SEI upper gearcase outdrives

SEI upper gearcase outdrives gearcase-Oil Change... the subsequent step within the seasonal service process is to vary the gearcase oil. On most outboards, the gearcase will have two screw plugs evident within the side of the gear housing. Some engines, however, will have the gear unit's drain and fill screws located on the hub just forward of the propeller, during which case they will only be reached with the propeller removed.

To drain the fluid from your unit, wipe the skeg clean at the the very bottom of the engine and fasten a bit of masking paper to the skeg.

Get a clean container that's large enough to carry all the oil in your gearcase and place it under the tape. Remove the lower drain plug. Nothing much will begin until you slowly unscrew the upper check plug. The oil will then leak down the side of the gear housing, down the side of the skeg, and flow straight down the sting of the tape into your drain pan.

Carefully inspect the oil for excessive metal filings or discoloration. If the oil appears milky, or if you noticed an outsized amount of water beginning of the drain before the oil, then water has somehow migrated into the gearcase, indicating a nasty seal.

Clean off the magnetic pickup found on many lower drain plugs and obtainable to refill the lower unit with the right gear oil.

Although this oil may have an equivalent distinctive rotten egg odor because the fluid you've got just far away from your outboard engine, it's going to not be equivalent stuff. Typically, the special outboard engine gear oils have a water-dispersant additive within them that's not found in the automotive grades. Also, remember that not all outboards use gear oil in their gearcases. Some use four-stroke internal-combustion engine oil, et al. use a fluid quite almost like automotive automatic drive oil. make certain to see the specifications for your engine. it is best to travel to your dealer to get a container of the right oil and one among the special fill pumps.

This is often a crucial point because you are going to fill the gearcase from rock bottom up. Once you're set-up, simply work the pump until you only begin to ascertain oil seeping from the highest check-plug hole. Then reinstall the check plug and comfortable up the screw. Next, get the drain/fill plug able to install, wipe down the magnetic pickup, and make certain the sealing Oring or gasket is either in situ on the screw plug or within the gear housing.

Tighten it fully. Wipe off any excess oil from the gearcase and await leaks. Your car care is complete.

Cooling System... subsequent step within the seasonal service is to thoroughly flush your cooling system with water. A precaution here is to form certain that the flush adapter stays in situ while you're flushing the engine. If the adapter slides down on the lower unit to some extent below the water inlet, you'll blow out the engine's water pump-or the engine itself-if it's left unattended for even a quick time.

As a part of this cooling system service, it is also an honest idea to get rid of and clean your engine's thermostat, if it's one. the interior cavity into which the thermostat and bypass valve fits may be a trap for sand, salt, and general debris that gets past the system pickup strainer. With the thermostat removed, clean out any muck you discover there and, with the engine running, run water up from the flushing adapter through the engine to the present point. You'll now know surely that the interior water flow is unrestricted because water will leak at now. Just run the engine long enough to work out that an honest solid flow of water is pouring out.

After the thermostat has been cleaned, reinstall it, using new gaskets, and run the engine again to make certain the thermostat cover isn't leaking. If your engine has appeared to be running too hot lately, but your inspection has now revealed that water is going to now inadequate amounts, the operation of the thermostat might be the matter.

Impeller Replacement. additionally, to flushing the cooling system and checking the thermostat, you'll also regard the replacement of your water-pump impeller as routine maintenance. to inform the reality, manufacturer's recommendations vary on this score, some suggesting that you simply renew the impeller per annum, et al. that you simply replace it only as required. If you often venture far offshore, where the failure of the pump might be a significant problem, replace that impeller yearly.

On the opposite hand, if you employ your motor only occasionally throughout the season, or on a young, for non-risky trips from ship to shore, I'd advise you to exchange the impeller every other year. Cylinder Compression... Now that you've got run your engine for a touch to flush your cooling system, and have warmed it up, it is a good idea to perform the annual compression test. Remember, compression is one among your engine's basic needs and a compression check can often catch impending problems before they become major.

For example, piston rings that are just starting to clog will cause low compression before they fail completely. Usually, you'll cure this problem by running a manufacturer-approved decarbonizing fluid-like OMC or Mercury "Engine Tuner" through the engine. If you do not catch this problem in time, the sole solution is to require the engine apart. It's simple to use these engine tuners-the instructions are right there on the merchandise label. To know more details about upper gearcase outdrives

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