We couldn't leave Cusco without trying the cuy al horno, better known as the guinea pig. So we splurged on a fancy restaurant called PachaPapa's. It had a nice open courtyard complete with umbrellas, gas heaters, a stone oven, and a live harp player. We eagerly sat down, opened the menu, and found the section for guinea pigs. Staring back at us was a sentence that read "24-hour reservation needed". Heartbroken. But we all put on our best sad puppy faces and the kind waiter said that we could come back in 2.5 hours for it. Talk about freshly made! The guinea pigs were much bigger than expected - certainly bigger than our cute household variety. It had hard, crispy skin with thin, gamey meat. I rather liked it, but the others preferred the alpaca skewers we had also ordered. The stuffed hot peppers and beer-stewed lamb were also mouth-wateringly delicious.
The cozy atmosphere then got even cozier as Elias, his girlfriend, Oscar, Court and company all joined us at the restaurant. Elias had promised to show us the traditional Peruvian corn drink called chicha. The one he passed around was not fermented to the point that it was alcoholic. It was sweet and very tasty. Elias wasn't done there though. We left the restaurant in search of a traditional chicharia that the locals frequent each night. He didn't know exactly where they were located so we had to ask around. Our first lead led us to a closed chicharia. Our second lead led us to a mini-convenience store. The man who was there was already closing up shop when we arrived. He said he knew nothing of a chicharia there. But then, an old lady came into the shop and Elias persists with his questioning. Finally, the old lady admits to owning a chicharia and points to some alleyway beside her shop. We find ourselves in several dark alleyways, not knowing what was going on, before we found the right door. Inside we found buckets and buckets of home-made chicha. The locals were sitting on benches, chatting, watching music videos, and drinking chicha from enormous glasses probably the size of two pints. We were treated no different and given these gigantic glasses of chicha. The drink here was less sweet and more alcoholic than the restaurant. The drink is still light though and locals can go through 15 of them in one sitting. The old lady had lightened up a great deal, a completely changed woman. She raised her glass to everyone and was dancing and singing all night long. Elias will make this a tradition for all his future groups.