For a Sunday outing we have chosen a route on the brink of the break-through. It is widely described as the undiscovered gem of central Lithuania, yet the crowds are still on a way, so we carried out the explorations pleasantly undisturbed. Kicked off the tour at the most distant Panemunes castle, recently renovated it boasts a historically themed hotel and a compact exposition corner. To encapsulate the centuries long history, built by rich Hungarian landlord Eperjesh at the end of 16th century, inherited by the generations of skint family it turned into a ghost of its glorious beginnings. Long lost splendour was brought back by Gelgaudai family. Sadly mutiny of 1831 has wiped out the newly found prosperity. A living witness of those days – jail in the vault under south tower. Peeking down the hole into the cellar still overwhelms with a image of torture. Climbing up the tower itself was a good exercise, but rather a disappointment once at the top. Neatly tiled with small windows it gave an impression of granny’s loft. The section I truly enjoyed was the non-renovated quarters with the remains of ancient wall paintings. As the windows are covered in muted film it gives a dim light perfect for a dreamy portrait. Unexpectedly courtyard was filled with local craftsmen fair. The taste of bonfire fried pancakes and stodgy fish soup under the afternoon sun made an exuberant moment.