Irish whisky (yes, I’m leaving the ‘e’ off it, suck it, I don’t care) often gets a bum rap as a softer cousin of Scotch, never mind the fact that the Irish were doing distillation first. There’s been a distinct lack of variety by comparison, but the category is expanding significantly every year. The Sextant, Glendalough, Teeling, Kilbrin, Slane, and others simply didn’t exist even five or so years ago. Existing brands like Jameson, Redbreast, Yellow Spot, and even stalwarts like Tullamore Dew are adding new and experimental products to their range. Which is great, because I am all about trying the new things.
But stalwart brands don’t deserve to be overlooked just because they’re familiar. Labels like Glenfiddich and Jameson and Jim Beam might blend into the shelf but they’re worth revisiting once in a while. Sometimes things are popular for a reason.
Connemara has been around a long time, and given that it is a bit of an outlier it might not jump out. Unlike a lot of Irish whisky, it is both peated and a single malt. And it’s a terrific bridge between Scotch and Irish styles for people looking to venture outside their comfort zone.
True to stereotypes, it is smooth as a waxed otter. The nose is surprisingly complex, with some slight oak notes, an earthen, heathery potpourri and subtle peat forming the backbone. Frankly there's also something vaguely unpleasant in the mix, medicinal and briny; maybe lemongrassy vinegar? Yeast, even? It's weird. But it doesn’t take over, it augments the rest.
Thankfully that latter bit doesn’t carry over to the palate. There’s a clean and refreshing entry, light and honeyed oak ushering in a graceful, soft-yet-strong peat smoke. It’s a vegetal peat, with lots of grassy and floral tones lending an earthy quality. That’s followed with gingery spiciness that tingles the lips. It’s a long finish for an Irish, with the peat hanging on the tongue until a sweet, creamy hint of chocolate peeks through.
Sound like an Irish? Hell no it doesn’t. But it is, and it could be the one you’re looking for. Thanks, Kensington Wine Market!
