The Golden Rule?
I wanted to share an observation about how the social media world has changed the restaurant industry. We’ve all heard about newspapers going out of business or famous magazines (like Gourmet) closing their doors after decades of prominence. The introduction of virtually limitless media sources on the internet meant that anyone could write anything and put it out there for free, which makes the business of selling actual news or quality writing very difficult.
What you might not have noticed is the gradual change in the way you read about restaurants. In the old days (you absolutely MAY NOT read that as an admission that I’m old) one could count on almost every newspaper running a restaurant review once a week, often written by one of their staff writers. In big cities, the position of Food Critic was a huge deal. Some of the biggest names in food writing were restaurant critics for notable newspapers – Ruth Reichl, Frank Bruni, Tom Sietsema, and lots more.
These guys were powerful. I mean chefs had pictures of them hanging in the kitchen, with bounties paid to the server who spotted them. The critics would go out in actual disguises, under fake names, because their review the next Wednesday could make or break a restaurant. I remember going to an event at a farm with a couple hundred serious food people, chefs, etc. outside of Washington DC several years ago. My wife returned from powdering her nose and told me about the hilarious lady she had run into who seemed to know everyone there. She pointed her out to me and waved at her as she walked by. “Oh my God!” I whispered. “What did you say to her?! That’s Phyllis Richman!” Ms. Richman could crush my restaurant with one off-hand insult. All good, as it turned out, Phyllis had enjoyed more than a couple glasses of wine already. Crisis averted.
Fast forward to today. In downsizing print media world, newspapers can no longer afford to pay food critics. Oh, sure, the LA Times has Jonathan Gold, the NY Times now has Pete Wells and I think Tom Sietsema still writes reviews for the Washington Post. But when was the last time you decided where to eat based on an article in your local paper? Right. Never. Why should you? You can click on Yelp, or TripAdvisor, UrbanSpoon, FourSquare or any of a host of others and instantly see 475 reviews of nearby pizzerias. You swipe down through the top 10 and find a place with a cute name, a decent review score, a nearby address and you’re off. When you’ve finished you can go online and tell the world all about your experience. Just click on the button and start moving your thumbs.
Here’s the point: in the old days, food critics held the future of chefs and restaurateurs in their hands. Today, that power lies with you. Granted, it’s diluted a bit by the other online reviews posted by Amy from Toledo or GroovyB from Delaware, but it’s still an awesome power. Remember that you are standing on the shoulders of giants – folks that got us to realize that sharing experiences about meals can be a treat for the reader and help them find wonderful eateries. So share your best experiences but think twice before you vent bile and frustration. How would you feel if there was an online review of your workplace – and anyone could post whatever they wanted? What if your job depended on it?












