The Icon Ahead of Her Time: The Secret Behind Marilyn's Infamous Look
(Photo credit to Harpers Bazaar)
For such a clean, crisp look that pinup icons are notorious for, it's not as simple as it appears. Marilyn Monroe's main makeup artist, Allan 'Whitey' Snider, came up with some of the best tips to create the iconic look Marilyn is known for. A look that would pave the way for the go-to for pinup basics for makeup.
In this post, discover some of Marilyn's hacks on how to create this natural yet glamourous look.
Laying down the foundation for any makeup application is important. Starting with where it begins...the skin.
In today's society people are obsessed with dermaplaning; removing the peach fuzz due to aesthetic reasons for makeup. Marilyn on the other hand embraced the effect that the peach fuzz could do for her on camera and with her makeup. She could see that the tiny hairs actually created a blurring effect, which created a glow of sorts when underneath harsh studio lighting - no blurring makeup products needed!
We also know how vital it is to hydrate the skin when prepping the skin for makeup application. Did you know that Marilyn used Vaseline primarily under her makeup to keep moisturized and like a primer, as well as using it to create a highlight on her cheeks, as well as after applying her eye makeup? If you have a bit of oily skin trouble, this may not be the best thing to do , and there are products to achieve the same desired results, but this was what she used that worked for her.
This leads us to the eyes.
Marilyn would use white cream from her eyelid to her brow bone for every look she would do. In pinup, white is often used to open the eye to create the big, open eye look iconic to pinups.
That being said, not only was white used for colour and highlight on the lid and brow bone area, but it was used as eyeliner on the bottom water line!
Another incoming fact about Marilyn's methods...she didn't use just one shade of eyeliner...she used three! For the main wing on her lid, she used classic black eyeliner which is typical for creating that winged stroke of wonder. But she also used a brown to create that light, what appears to be a drop shadow casted by her eyelashes. This was an illusion she used to make the eyelashes look emphasized, by making the viewer believe they were the culprits for creating that dropshadow. Nay, that was the art of eyeliner. The third of course, being the white eyeliner as mentioned previously on the lower waterline to open the eye.
That technique being used , added with the right set of falsies nowadays would be a deadly combo. Speaking of false eyelashes...
Many make the mistake of going balls to the wall when picking out false lashes to wear. The idea you should go for - besides avoiding doing eyelid pushups - is a more natural glamourous look. So, nothing too dramatic. What Marilyn would do to keep the natural appearance to the lashes, is that she would actually cut the lashes in half and apply them only to the outer part of the upper lid. Think about it... when we do our winged liner, we are creating the illusion of that part of the eye being elongated and emphasized. That being said, the placement of the lashes only being placed on that part of the eye makes complete sense.
Well now, thinking about how fabulous one will appear with that handy-dandy trick makes one want to blush...
Did you know that Marilyn used blush as a means to contour her face? We don't normally contour our face in the modern sense of the term since it creates too harsh of lines, but she used it sparingly on her cheeks and a smidge to the tip of her nose. This created a more natural appearance as well a hint of warmth. To top it off, she did use a finishing powder to add a bit of glow to her appearance.
Now, for the part that is another infamous pinup staple: The iconic red lip.
Marilyn's red lip was achieved using a multi stage process.
Beginning first with creating the perfectly crisp lining, Marilyn would use a lip brush to line her lips. This can be done either with brush or with a lip pencil. Regardless, make sure either method contains a fine, sharp tip for precision.
For the fill, she would actually do a form of lip contouring. You know that thing we were blown away by a few years ago and some companies made double ended products to create a lip ombre / contour? Marilyn did it first. Sorry y'all, the 50's was the birthplace of that technique. Marilyn would use darker shades of red towards the outer part of the lips, and use lighter towards the middle. This created the contoured/ombre effect. To top it off, she would then put a very little bit of white in the middle on the bottom lip to create a highlighted effect, and a clear coat of gloss over top of her lips to create that sparkling, glossy effect. Albeit in pinup, we normally use matte lipstick and try to avoid using shimmery shades as well as shiny glosses. For Marilyn, though? She made it work and was absolutely glamorous doing so.
If you've survived this far in reading, I commend you and I hope you enjoyed reading this little tidbit of information behind what went on to achieve such an iconic look.
xo Bree Von Tease
















