I keep trying to write a blog post about my trip to Chernobyl but every time, I get bogged down in the details - which I really want to write. So they’re going here.
It happened on the night of 25th April 1986 - well, in the early hours of the 26th, actually, about 1.15am.
Nuclear reactors get really hot - like, really hot. In the event of them being shut down, whether deliberately or in an emergency, the number one thing is to keep the cooling going. We’ve had three nuclear disasters and in all three cases, the cooling was the major issue. In the case of Chernobyl, in the event of a power failure, the reactors would automatically shut down and an emergency generator would kick in, continuing the cooling. But it took 30-90 seconds to get the emergency cooling systems online and Chernobyl bosses ruled that unsafe. So they decided to experiment with using the movement of the turbines to shorten the gap.
The experiment had already failed three times but they decided to run it again while reactor 4 was being shut down. In order to do this, they disabled a few safety systems. They had people standing by in case things went wrong.
So 1.15ish in the morning, they go for this experiment again. But something went wrong. I’m still not entirely sure what. I know that the control rods, graphite rods dropped into the reactor core to stop the nuclear reaction, jammed and shattered at some point. There was a power surge. The core began to melt and it met the light water used for cooling.
The results was a huge explosion. It blew the concrete lid of the reactor sky high and staff who ran outside to see what was going on saw rainbow flames shooting into the sky. Exposed to the night air, the white-hot graphite in the core burst into flames. Between the explosion and the fire, tons of radioactive material was flung into the air.
The power plant’s firefighters turned up, followed by the Pripyat ones and the Chernobyl ones. At this point, no one knew it was a nuclear disaster, no one even knew that the fire was in the reactor. Most of them believed it was just an ordinary fire. They were exposed to colossal doses of radiation and most of them were dead from acute radiation sickness within the month.
The next problem was that the burning reactor kept on melting and a sludge made of nuclear material, the reactor core itself and all the stuff the firefighters had thrown on it, making a highly radioactive lava called corium, began melting through the bottom of the pressure vessel, heading towards a pool of cooling water and the aquifer under that.
Had that lava hit that water, there would have been a second explosion. Minsk, 600+km away would have been levelled. Kyiv, 100km away, would have been wiped off the map. Eastern Europe would have been decimated and Western Europe would have been made uninhabitable.
There are various stories about what happened. There may have been divers who had to go underneath the reactor to drain the water away. I’m pretty sure Soviet miners were drafted in to dig a pit right underneath to install a cooling system. Helicopters dropped lead and boric acid and sand on the fire. Eventually, the fire was contained but it burned for the best part of two weeks.
This was Friday night. On Sunday afternoon authorities finally evacuated Pripyat, the city built two miles away from the power plant to house its workers and their families. On Monday, a nuclear power plant in Sweden noticed unusually high radiation levels. They checked nothing was wrong at their end and then enquired of their neighbours, there’s levels of radiation indicating a massive disaster. Have any of you done it?
That was the first pretty much anyone knew of the Chernobyl disaster. Officials in Moscow had heard rumours but hadn’t been able to get anything concrete out, or so they claimed. Soviet propaganda may well be lying there. But yes, no one knew of a massive nuclear catastrophe on Friday night until Monday.
Eventually an area 30km in diameter was evacuated. The 10km zone is still uninhabitable and although you shouldn’t be living in the 30km zone, some people are. Some of them are workers at the power plant. Reactor 1 was shut down in 1996 (after suffering a partial meltdown in 1982 that I knew nothing about until right now) , Reactor 2 in 1991 following a fire that I didn’t know about until right now and Reactor 3 in 2000. Reactor 4 was the one that exploded. Reactors 5 & 6 were being built at the time and that project was immediately stopped. Reactors 1-3 are now being decommissioned, which is the process of dismantling them and returning the area to its pre-nuclear state, including full decontamination.
Over the course of May-December 1986, a sarcophagus was built to cover Reactor 4, to stop radioactive smoke & dust and to stop water getting in and risking another steam explosion. It was built when the radiation was at its highest, so pieces were dropped in by helicopter. It did the job, more or less, but it was gappy and it was never meant to last long. In November 2016, the New Safe Confinement was completed, a three-layer steel arch built to fit precisely over the remains, designed to keep everything out and everything in, condensation-proof and fitted with remote-operated robot arms to dismantle the wreckage. The NSC is meant to last 100 years but the current plan is to have the reactor dismantled and totally safe by 2065.
So some of the people living in the 30km zone, in the abandoned apartments in Chernobyl City, are workers decommissioning the power plant and running the solar farm. Some of them are self-settlers - people who were evacuated but chose to return to their homes. They’re not really supposed to be there but in 2004, the government decided to turn a blind eye to them and they now supply a weekly bus to take them to do their shopping and get their money etc. Their average age is 85. Some of them returned because after WWII and the Cold War, they weren’t that bothered by an enemy they couldn’t even see, like radiation. Some of them returned because the housing they were put into didn’t have heating or water or they couldn’t get jobs or get used to living in a big city after living out in the sticks - even in its heyday, the Exclusion Zone was a big empty patch of countryside. In some cases, families were separated because they couldn’t get on the same bus when the place was evacuated and in those days, finding each other again wasn’t as simple as phoning their mobile or sending them a message on Facebook. Some of those families never saw each other again.
And then there are stalkers - the people who enter the zone illegally. If they’re caught, the punishment is three days in jail in Kyiv and an 850UAH fine, which works out at $30/€26/£23 - much cheaper than an official tour and you get to decide what you want to see. It’s a stupid thing to do - on your own, you don’t know where the hotspots are, you don’t know where any places are, you’re letting yourself into crumbling radioactive buildings, you’re not following the safety rules and you’re risking being caught by Ukrainian border police, who even our guide said “are not always the nicest of people”. Stalkers are responsible for looting anything of value that survived, including the copper wires in the walls. Floors were ripped up because of an old habit of keeping anything valuable under the floor. That’s not down to time and lack of maintenance, that was ripped up deliberately in the 1980s. To be fair, today’s stalkers are mostly relatively harmless urban explorers and the kind of people who just like abandoned places. Mostly they’re not here to loot and steal and cause trouble.
More to come later but I’ve got stuff to do this morning.