It's so crazy thinking about the fact that I never tried to ride a wave before turning 27. The funny thing is that for a few days I had to wake up very early in the morning to reach by tuk tuk this beautiful beach in #Pottuvil with my teacher and it was sooo hard standing on that board. Then suddenly, after many attempts and totally randomly, I happened to catch one, stand on the board and, guided by some spiritual forces, I managed to ride a wave. I should have never caught one.. cause now that I got that feeling I can't wait to have more. Who knows what I mean? 🌊🏄😃 Ps: on these pictures I was still depressed and cursing the waves, the water and my alarm clock 😂 _______________________________________ #SriLanka #pottuvilpoint @fanny.pirrotte thx for shooting me 💙 (presso Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka අරුගම්බේ) https://www.instagram.com/p/B7tbiMMH8Wi/?igshid=16851d2p1om21