The Olive Experience: A Grocery Store Perspective
As an Egyptian-American growing up in the United States to immigrant parents, olives have always been a part of my diet. I have vivid memories of the yellow container my father would keep stocked with a particular black olive from the local Middle Eastern grocery store. The container was specifically designed for storing and preserving olives and was present at every meal in our household, but especially at breakfast. Those black olives always accompanied eggs, cheeses, and bread, and I remember clearly their location in that Middle Eastern grocery store where my father would also buy our Bulgarian feta. Today, the yellow container still exists, as does that original shop in Vienna, Virginia. It has now been joined by a proliferation of small Middle Eastern grocery stores in the area, in addition to the chain American grocery stores – all of which sell olives in one form or another.
I have continued to be a lover of olives in all their forms, and as such have noticed their expansion into the realms of many grocery stores beyond the aisles of canned and jarred varieties, which has provided the impetus for the current project. Over the course of two months, I have sought to examine the varieties and placement of olives across five separate grocery stores in the Washington, DC area, based solely on observation. I have conducted strictly optical research at each of the locations, noting where olives are located, how they are presented, the types offered, and their varied price points. Taking full account of the limitations of this particular form of research, I have also used olives as a benchmark in attempting to draw preliminary conclusions about the target consumer base of each of the grocery stores, as well as to determine its intended “ethos” – the character and spirit the store espouses, and the mood and climate it promotes among its customers.
Research Sites
In order to observe the context of olives within grocery stores, I have paid a visit to five separate grocery stores on five separate occasions: Whole Foods in Vienna, VA; Trader Joe’s in Washington, DC; Giant in Vienna, VA; Yas Bakery in Vienna, VA; and The Fresh Market in Vienna, VA. All of the locations are stores I frequent regularly, though never with olives particularly in mind. On all but two of the noted occasions, my research on olives was the primary reason for my visit.
Whole Foods
The grocery store journey begins at the Whole Foods in Vienna, VA, and upon entering the store, it is immediately clear that at this establishment, olives are serious business. The chain store boasts an “Olive Bar” that is priced at $9.99 per pound with accompanying containers that hold a substantial amount, potentially costing the consumer a considerable amount. The options on display are seemingly endless, and the store appears to take great pride in the selection, as each type of olive is carefully labeled and presented. In addition to the selection of olives, the store stocks the “bar” with items it must assume would pair nicely with olives or appeal to the customer purchasing this type of olive, including fresh mozzarella, gherkins, and pickled red peppers. In addition, to the side and on top of the bar, are non-perishables that Whole Foods displays as a logical accompaniment to the olives, such as salumi, wine, and crackers. Although the entire bar is advertised as an “Olive Bar,” Whole Foods has stocked it with items that constitute a meal on its own. In addition, the presentation is so highly curated as to invite the consumer to an experience, and not simply a side of olives, a reflection of the Whole Foods social class ethos and shopping experience itself.
There are also canned and jarred varieties available in a few locations throughout the store that include an array of options under the banner of both Whole Foods’ own “365” brand, as well as other brand names. Additionally, the olive experience continues outside of the “bar,” where an endcap displays olives alongside crackers and elderflower lemonade, a curated presentation that sets the tone for potential consumers through recommended pairings. However, the “Olive Bar” is the crown jewel of olive offerings at the Whole Foods in Vienna, VA.
While the presentation of olives at the “Olive Bar” speaks of variety and a lifestyle, it also calls into question issues of sanitation and taste, as one wonders about the handling of the olives by other consumers as well as their exposure to the elements long periods of time. To some consumers, I might posit, the “Olive Bar,” may be less appetizing for its potential germs and diluted taste, rather than inviting for its presentation.
Trader Joe’s
The next stop on my olive journey takes me to Trader Joe’s in Washington, DC. As I am a regular customer of the store for general groceries, I am certain that they do not have an “Olive Bar,” but am curious to discover what the store offers as an alternative. As I head to the aisle where the majority of the olives are located, I quickly discover that their selection and presentation is a reflection of the Trader Joe’s ethos generally – economical with minimal pomp and circumstance surrounding them, but with an appealing variety. Although they are almost all Trader Joe’s store brand, the generous section of the aisle boasts a great selection of jarred and canned olives, as well as dried and marinated, and salted and pitted versions.
In addition to the olives in the aisle, there are different olive products in multiple locations within the store, such as an olive tapenade on an endcap, and a few “fresh” olive medley options in the refrigerated section alongside a kalamata olive hummus. The price point of all of the olive products at Trader Joe’s is much lower than that of Whole Foods, representing the best of what the store promotes itself as providing – inexpensive, yet quality items. There is no centerpiece olive bar, but the variety of olives is appealing enough to lend itself to a multitude of meals, beyond any curated suggestions.
Giant
Upon entering the Giant in Vienna, VA, I immediately realize that, even though I shop at this particular store frequently, I had misremembered their olive offerings and the presence of an “olive bar.” This absence, however, proved fruitful as a point of comparison with previous chain store – Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s – I had visited in the week prior. I head instead directly to the salad bar where I am certain to find an olive option, but to my dismay and although it is already 10 am, the salad bar has yet to be stocked and I am unable to confirm my memories on this visit.
Discouraged, but not defeated, I quickly find what has become the requisite olive spread or tapenade in the refrigerated section of the store, of which I take note. I follow it up with a trip to the olive section of one of the aisles, aptly located between the pickle and hot sauce offerings. The selection of canned and jarred olives is fairly standard, with green and black varieties and a few stuffed olive options on display. It is as varied and as extensive as Trader Joe’s, but there are fewer creatively packaged options, such as a vacuum-sealed version seen at Trader Joe’s. One notable exception to the run-of-the mill offerings that immediately garners my attentions is the lines of “Olive To Go” products, which I have yet to see elsewhere.
The “Olive To Go” product concept, its cartoon-like packaging, and the odd flavor selections, such as a “chipotle hummus stuffed black olive, at once strike me, leading me to try to decipher this particular product’s target consumer, as well as that of Giant at large. The line speaks to the “mainstreaming” of olives, whereby they may be consumed as a snack or as a side to any meal, and on the go or otherwise.
I continue my hunt for olives throughout the store, and am also intrigued by their location in an endcap that has clearly been purchased by the particular brand being advertised. Notably, the location of this endcap is in the aisle that includes some of Giant’s “ethnic” offerings, as well as canned vegetables and meats. Like the Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, I find the olive selection and its price point to be a solid reflection of Giant’s customer base as a whole that are likely shopping for staples and not specialty items at basic supermarket prices.
Yas Bakery
My fourth grocery store visit takes me to Yas Bakery, a family owned bakery and grocery store in Vienna, VA. In addition to their own house made pastry and baked goods, they sell a variety of grocery products from Iran, Turkey, and the Arab World, as well as local produce. I decide to add Yas to my visits because of its independent ownership and Middle Eastern product base, both of which I correctly assume will impact their olive offerings.
It is a weekend morning, and the shop is humming with customers as they buzz about the shop collecting their goods from the various aisle and counters. Although the shop is relatively small, the selection rivals that of many of the larger grocery stores, with an entire section of an aisle dedicated to them. The options reflect the shop’s Middle Eastern roots, as most of the canned, jarred, and packaged variety is from that region of the world and unavailable at the three previous American chain grocery stores. I take the assortment as an indication of the importance of olives to the cuisines of the region and consequently, the shop’s target customer base. Here, olives are offered as staples, but they are not of the variety presented at the earlier stores, as both the types and packaging are more diverse.
In addition, Yas has its own version of an “olive bar” in the form of a refrigerated counter offering fresh olives that the customer must request assistance with. Here, there are three tubs of fresh olives presented side by side with tubs of fresh feta and Middle Eastern cold cuts. Although the presentation is not as curated and assorted as at the Whole Foods, the olives nonetheless are appetizing in their wholesale and “authentic” appearance, and I am immediately taken back to purchasing these very items with my father on mornings such as this one at a similar store.
The Fresh Market
The fifth and final leg of my grocery store tour lands me at The Fresh Market, a smaller upscale chain store in Vienna, VA. It feels as though I have come full circle as I find myself back at an “olive bar.” The Fresh Market version, however, also markets itself explicitly as a “Self-Service Olive and Antipasto Bar.” Cardboard signs above the bar advertise the “Antipasti Skewers” and “Olive Bar Platter” you are invited to create from the bar offerings that include items such as mozzarella, mushrooms, and garlic in addition to the olives. Unlike Whole Foods, there is no charcuterie or suggested pairings, but the photos at the top of the bar paint an enticing picture of potential appetizer meals.
Similar to Whole Foods, there is an assortment of olives, most of which appear to be for eating independently and not necessarily for cooking. Unlike some of the other grocery stores, there are no olive products in the refrigerated areas, but there is an aisle section dedicated to them, perfectly named, “Pickles and Olives.” Here, a variety similar to some of the other stores, particularly Trader Joe’s, can be found. The section is more substantial than Whole Foods and better curated than Giant, but less varied than Trader Joe’s. Again, I have the sense that the collection and presentation of olives is a reflection of the store’s general style and target customer, as it situates itself on the grocery store spectrum. Its dimly lit and “homey” feel, assorted, but limited selection of groceries that include “bulk” items, and a price point that is higher than Giant, but lower than Whole Foods, attempts to create a shopping “experience” that is more than just the items being purchased. The consumer is invited to feel that the store has carefully selected its products and displayed them in a manner that is reminiscent of an indoor farmer’s market, and not simply a chain grocery store.
Olives and Beyond
In visiting five grocery stores in an effort to examine their olive selection, I have come to view olives as a small yet solid indicator of the general ethos of the stores themselves. I have been intrigued not only by the products themselves, but how they can serve as a benchmark to understanding the target consumer base of a store based on their varieties, display styles, price points, and suggested pairings. Olives occupy an interesting niche within grocery stores, as they not only reflect taste and cuisines, but also in some cases, lifestyles.
In pursuing further research beyond the preliminary optical, I would be interested in gaining a better understanding of the olive consumer at each of these stores through interviews with both buyers and store employees. Who purchases these items and why? Is there a specific draw to the particular product or to the store itself? There is much to be gained through interviews that my observation only allows through assumptions.
In addition, I would like to delve further into the seemingly increasing role olives occupy in grocery stores, particularly in the form of the “olive bar.” I believe background research on its rise would speak to two fascinating phenomena – a potential shift in the American diet, as well as the changing landscape of the American grocery store. Where has the corner store gone and what do “ethnic” and “specialty” shops offer in their place? How do economic trends intersect with food consumption and the stores that provide them? An additional lens through which to view olives would be a political economy one. Looking at specific production and consumption trends, particularly within a larger political context such as Palestine and Israel, would be fascinating. Although there is clearly much to be gained from further research beyond that of observation, my grocery store journey of olives has built a great foundation of objective to pursue.