How does hair color work?
The simple explanation is that a solution is applied that heats up the hair shaft and opens the cuticle to either deposit into the natural pigment going darker or extract the natural pigment going lighter then tonally depositing into the natural melanin of the hair. This process distinguishes between virgin hair or chemically treated hair.
We measure hair color in this manner. Level 1 being the darkest, to level 10 being the lightest and different tonal levels of color in between. We check to see if you have used hair color or if you have all natural hair color. Also we check to see the percentage of gray 50% - 75% - 100% gray to obtain the right formulation. Yes we all are unique!
Normal condition to damaged hair:
When you think about the health of the hair some people fall between these two extremity’s, brittle and dry as others will fall in oily and a bit of build up. The elasticity of the hair will play a role on its tolerance of hair color. Wet natural hair will stretch around 50%, when dry hair will stretch up to about 20%. The elasticity scale is rated low normal and high.
Most if not all box color uses ammonia to blast open your hair’s cuticle, allowing the new color particles to penetrate the hair, and irreversibly changing the hair’s pH to a harsh level. When the hair’s cuticle has been blasted open with ammonia its difficult to close back up. Not being able to close the cuticle means damage - split ends and the inability for the hair to lock in color will make it fade faster loosing its vibrancy.
Andrew Salon uses Illumina hair color by Wella: There biggest color innovation in 20 years, with new MICROLIGHT(TM) technology. One of the keys to healthy, shiny, younger-looking hair is maintaining the smooth surface condition of the outermost layer of hair known as the cuticle, which allows light to pass through and reflect real tones from within for natural, multi-dimensional color. Unlike most box color, Illumina is ammonia free and fights another natural element which may damage the hair - copper. Copper is found in water pipes and it bonds with ingredients in the dye, damaging the cuticles and stripping the hair from its natural radiance. The Illumina Color includes special micro-particles that surround the copper and prevent it from bonding with the chemicals in the dye. Illumina contains millions of micro-particles that encapsulate the tiny metals left on hair, reducing cuticle damage and keeping the surface of the hair cuticle healthier and more transparent. By protecting the cuticle to leave the surface smooth and clear, light passes through and illuminates natural highs and lows from within. The result? Superior hair protection that maintains the integrity of the hair and amazing light reflection that makes hair shine in any kind of light!
If you color your hair one time with permanent hair color your hair color will be altered even if it washes out a bit and fades. So please understand that hair grows on average 1/2 inch a month. If you used a box color all over your head and its been 6 months since you colored it. That would mean that you have approximately three inches of regrowth. In the professional world of color this is why we act a little bit apprehensive. Not only does this mean that your hair is more prone to damage do to the harsh chemicals used in box color, but lets say that it was a close match to your natural and it looks like it has just faded out or was sunlit its still there. If you are going in to get professional color and making a attempt to a new transition could create unexpected results without preparation or knowledge of the previously used color. Please make your stylist aware of any color used. Even some demi / semi permanent hair color can affect the expected outcome of your new hair color.
A little history of hair color:
Hair color has been around forever. Dating back as far as ancient Egypt, the Neanderthals, Ancient Gauls and Saxons and beyond using plants , vegetables, fruit or animal matter. Babylonians sprinkled gold dust on their beards and hair as a sign of beauty and wealth.
Philippe Walter on Claudius Galen from the Roman Empire described a formula to dye hair black
Hydrogen Peroxide is discovered in 1818 not used on hair until 1867
1867 London Chemist E.H. Thiellay and Parisian hairdressor Leon Hugot demonstrate the advantages of hydrogen peroxide as a better chemical way to lighten hair than alkaline solutions, Bleach is born.
In the 1907 Eugene Schueller discovered a substance that is known as para-phenylenediamine (PPD). He found that this was the ideal tool for creating synthetic dyes and that hydrogen peroxide was safer than other chemicals that had previously been used for hair dying. Eugene Schueller later started his own company for hair dye which he named "Aureole". Later it was changed to "L'Oreal".