Oct 26, 2019
#MattyBovan #AnnaWintour #VogueMagazine #SarahMower https://www.instagram.com/p/B4E60x1hvJY/?igshid=1gbpy0ngt8u3f
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#MattyBovan #AnnaWintour #VogueMagazine #SarahMower https://www.instagram.com/p/B4E60x1hvJY/?igshid=1gbpy0ngt8u3f
A Discussion with Honored Guest Sarah Mower, Chief Critic for Vogue.com
image from google.com
Presently the Chief Critic for Vogue.com, Sarah Mower is an internationally acclaimed and renowned fashion journalist. She has documented and analyzed fashion movements through reviews for Style.com, and features for Vogue, British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and British newspapers since her first job at The Guardian in 1987. Mower has authored six books: London Uprising: Fifty Designers, One City (Phaidon 2017), Chloé Attitudes (Rizzoli 2013), Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion (Rizzoli 2009), Gucci by Gucci (Rizzoli 2008), 20 Years: Dolce & Gabbana (Rizzoli 2006), and Oscar de la Renta (Assouline 2000). In 2011 was awarded an MBE in recognition of her influential contributions. She has also published several books including “20 Years: Dolce & Gabbana” and “Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion.”
On Friday, May 5, 2017, Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the school of Fashion in Academy of Art University, he moderated a discussion with Sarah Mower, and Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Professional Development for the Council of Fashion Designers of America(CFDA) and tour the School of Fashion at 625 Polk Street. The discussion for all senior level and graduating students as the focus on career preparedness and global opportunities specific to School of Fashion students to learn how to design sustainable careers in a rapidly changing fashion landscape.
image by timeless fashion
From left to right: executive director Simon Ungless, Sara Kozlowski of CFDA and Sarah Mower, MBE, Chief Critic for Vogue.com.
She joined the School of Fashion as the guest of honor for the Graduation Fashion Show on Saturday, May 6, 2017. Sarah Mower received the degree of Honorary Doctorate from Dr. Elisa Stephens, President of Academy of Art University, for her contributions to the fashion industry and fashion education, and for her support of emerging designers. She has invited for Spring Show 2017, and talked to graduate students of Fashion Journalism.
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Academy of Art University Graduation Fashion Show 2017
Photo Courtsey: Fashion School Daily
Something always leads to something else, and at this very moment, the time has come leading to the graduation fashion show 2017. Students, parents, faculty, and friends came to watch and celebrate the creative vision of the student designers that was present here today.
On May 6, 2017, guest filled the fashion show waiting to see the excitement and beautiful creations that would be walking down the catwalk. The president of the Academy of Art University Elisa Stephens started out by reflecting on how far the school has come from when it was first founded by her grandfather, Richard Stephens. The school of fashion is now one of the largest and lively programs at the academy.
Photo Courtsey: Vogue.com
Guest of honor Sarah Mower, journalist and now Chief Critic for Vogue.com was also in attendance. President of AAU Elisa Stephens presented the award of Honourary Doctorate to Sarah Mower. When accepting her award she let us know why she is dedicated to working with emerging talents of the future of fashion, she stated, “I got into this because I’m interested in the future. I know and value how much education means. ” Mower also gave praise to the leadership of Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion, and the program’s entire team. Shortly after the Spring Fashion Show 2017 began.
The lights dimmed, music started and the fashion show began.
2017 Spring Fashion Show
Video Courtsey: Youtube/StagMedia Production
10 collaborations on the runway; three fashion design and knitwear collaborations, one fashion design and costume collaboration, four fashion design and jewelry and metal arts collaboration and three fashion design, and textile collaborations was shown during the show. These students worked effortlessly, timely and passionately to present us their creative visions. I want to give praise to every designer that showcased in the show each design and inspiration spoke differently!
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harpers bazaar march 1993
i couldnt not stop at this article written by sarah mower back in 1993 now could i?
given all the recent coverage about the change in the catwalk show landscape.
there has been much talk about the impact of social media and the need by some brands to move to a show now buy now/wear formats selling directly to customers.
as opposed to showing a collection and having it delievered into store 6 months later.
now every body wants imediacy, they have seen the imagery all over the place, all over the world as it happens, and on the back of a celebrity soon after, so by the time it arrives in stores 6 months later are they already bored of it?
as a designer myself everything really just merges into the next thing as a constant evolving mood, i am always ready and looking for thr next thing and i do find myself constantly checking what season am i in.
the fracas back in 1993 was to do with the scheduling of the french shows some wanted to stay in mid march while others saw a benefit in moving them forward to february.
but sarah mower suggests there were really other deeper underlying shifts re shaping the fashion landscape.
was it actually a 90’s rebellion against the grandois style of late 80’s shows?
geoffrey beene is quoted as saying, “the hype of it is so boring. the ego of it all and the super model thing were begining to eclipse the design itself. there is a great slide into mediocrity on all sides-and i dont want to be mediocre”
wise words mr beene.
commenting on lavish shows and extravaganza of the time his thoughts are still relevant today. where its the frenzy of the street stylers mixed with the celebrity front row that can eclipse what actually ends up on the catwalk.
bernadine morris the then fashion editor of the new york times, comments on her preference for small showroom presentations, where you get to see the clothes up close and get personal with the designers, “thats where the opportunity for dialogue about real clothes”.
also an opinion shared by rose marie bravo of saks fith avenue, “theres something wonderful about seeing clothes close up in the showroom”.
suzy menkes is philosophical, she says, ” i think it will be a case of scaling down something that has got out of control. But i still think there’s nothing to beat the magic of a really good show.”
and i agree, i still fantasise that one day i eventually will get to watch a dries van noten show, and have a hand written note with my name on it that i can frame!!! and put in the downstairs loo.but i cant see that happening any time soon.
so me like the rest of the fans out there i will just have to view online or on social media untill we can see and feel it ourselves when it arrives in store.
so how did the french incident get resolved?
karl lagerfeld was tracked down at a personal event in california and petitioned by fax on his prefernce, when did he want to show?
his reply stated 13-20 march, so everyone else fell into line.
so sometimes nothing really changes!
must the show go on? harpers bazaar march 1993 i couldnt not stop at this article written by sarah mower back in 1993 now could i?
“I saw the effect of wearing GILES on real girls when we cast thirty people from the Port Eliot festival to walk in our show. [They] went from camping in a Cornwall field to wafting through the gardens transformed as modern damsels, princesses and intimidating Queens. All of them absolutely loved wearing GILES and wanted to know all about the ideas behind his beautiful references (I loved telling them that he is a closet English history buff, like me!), and their friends and mothers staggered back in astonishment at how incredible they looked.”
“My thesis is that we are looking back to mediaeval times now because real life is so scary today...the feeling [is] completely captured in Game of Thrones, which is where my thought-process started. The gloves worn by the girl in the dusty pink are from Dolce & Gabbana's 'Normans in Sicily' collection (discovering they were there for 200 years, because it was a garrison stopping off point on the way to the crusades is just one of the astonishing history lessons you can learn through fashion). Oh, and the ' Lady Macbeth' bloody glove was borrowed from Hannah Williams, who's just graduated from the RCA this summer,”
It was a roaring success, Mower exclaimed, “So many people volunteered to make a bit of magic happen [which] is totally due to GILES, the girls who wore him so well, MAC and Bumble&Bumble who were there to do hair and makeup and everyone else who loaned clothes. A massive thank you, Giles, for helping make this day so happy and memorable for so many girls. And for me."
Sarah Mower, Michele Clapton, Gwendoline Christie and Gemma Jackson discuss why the fantastical Game of Thrones has even the most pragmatic of us so riveted.
Gemma Jackson, interviewed by Sarah Mower as part of the wardrobe department’s events at Port Eliot 2015, discusses the conception and development of the infamous Throne.