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“When a movie character is really working, we become that character. That’s what the movies offer: Escapism into lives other than our own.” ~ Roger Ebert, Chicago Sun-Times film critic from 1967-2013 

Although Chicago’s 1863 World’s Columbian Exposition was home to the world’s first movie screening, the storied history of the Chicago film industry officially dates back to the early 1900s. At that time, Chicago was a world leader in the rental of moving picture films and general patronage of motion pictures. By 1907 more than 15 film exchanges were in operation in Chicago, controlling 80% of the film distribution market for the entire country. Even after Chicago studios departed for Hollywood, Chicago remained an important distribution market. The 800 to 1500 blocks of South Wabash in the Loop housed high-profile distribution offices for MGM, Columbia, Warner Brothers, Republic, Universal, RKO, and Paramount. 

During the early 1900s, Chicago also had more film theaters per capita than any other city in the U.S., with five-cent theaters or nickelodeons playing a significant role in commercial development throughout its neighborhoods. The Balaban and Katz chain was the largest theater chain in the studio era (1919-1952), with 50 theaters in Chicago alone. They were known for building beautiful movie palaces to show movies and present popular stage shows. Among these are the still thriving Chicago Theatre (formerly Balaban and Katz Chicago Theatre) which opened in 1921 and the James M. Nederlander Theatre built-in 1926 (formerly Oriental). 

Early Chicago Movie Studios 

Based in Uptown, Essanay Studios (originally The Peerless Film Manufacturing Company) was founded in 1907 by George Spoor and Gilbert Anderson. The studio released more than 2,000 shorts and feature films in their 10 years in Chicago, most notably 15 comedy shorts starring Charlie Chaplin. The studio produced silent films by other great stars such as Gloria Swanson, Wallace Beery, and Gilbert “Broncho Billy” Anderson, who won honorary Academy Awards for his time at the studio. While Essanay packed up and moved to Hollywood in 1917, the building at 1345 Argyle Street was designated a landmark in 1996. The original Essanay lettering and terra cotta Indian head Essanay trademarks still greet visitors. 

In 1907, William Selig, a former magician and theatrical troupe manager founded the Selig Polyscope Company at 3900 N. Claremont. Bordered by Irving Park Road and Western Avenue, the studio covered three acres, employed more than 200 people, and specialized in animal productions. When Thomas Edison’s motion picture patents became a barrier, Selig “borrowed” technology from the competing Lumiere Brothers. In 1909 when legal issues caught up with him, Selig moved to Los Angeles, where he created the first Hollywood movie studio. Selig stopped film production in 1918, transitioning from an animal and prop supplier to other studios and a zoo and amusement park operator. 

The Windy City is Home to Many Film Productions 

The Chicago Film Office, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and Special Events, has been instrumental in attracting the production of feature films, television series, commercials, and documentaries. Since 1980, more than 1,100 feature films and television productions have been shot in Chicago, including the popular and award-winning films Ordinary People, Risky Business, Sixteen Candles, The Color of Money, The Untouchables, Home Alone, A League of Their Own, Groundhog Day, Chicago, and The Dark Knight. Together, these 10 films won 14 Oscars. Recent television programs filmed partially or entirely in Chicago include Chicago Fire, Chicago PD, Empire, and the fourth season of Fargo. 

Famous Chicago Movie Locations 

A beautiful lakefront, Lake Shore Drive, the Loop and “L”, landmark architecture, attractive suburbs, and more offer enticing backdrops for movies and television shows. Here are a few locations you’ll likely recognize if you’re a movie buff who calls Chicago home. 

The Dark Knight: Lower Wacker Drive, LaSalle Street

Ferris Bueller’s Day Off: Chicago Board of Trade, Wrigley Field, Art Institute of Chicago

High Fidelity: Wicker Park

Home Alone: Winnetka, Oak Park

My Best Friend’s Wedding: Lake Shore Drive, Comiskey Park, Union Station

Public Enemies: Biograph Theater

The Untouchables: Union Station, Chicago Cultural Center, Blackstone Hotel, Chicago Theater, etc. 

In the long tradition of movies and filmmaking in Chicago, ScanCafe is proud to offer film digitizing services in the Windy City. Converting old movies is the best way to preserve celluloid memories for posterity.

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Take a look at eBay and Etsy and you’ll see hundreds of vintage film reels in different sizes and colors for sale. Old film reels that housed 8, 16, and 35mm film are typically made of metal. Super 8 film generally came on small plastic reels of various colors. Projector take-up reels were made of metal, regardless of the format. Film reels can be as small as 3 inches in diameter or a whopping 26 inches. The largest size reels were reserved for 35mm, which is definitely not a home movie format! Nicer film reels are just begging to be repurposed into cool home décor projects. If you’re a crafty person and own old movie reels, dust off the cobwebs, get them digitized, and then use reels to create all sorts of nifty things.

Wall Décor

If you’re a movie lover, you can hang a reel or two on the wall where you watch movies, e.g. your family room. Some of the larger film reels are rather elegant on their own and make a bold statement. Retain the natural colored metal or use spray paint and hang single or multiple reels in an interesting pattern if you have a lot of wall space.  

Small Accent Tables

A large metal reel mounted with a glass disc on top paired with a pole-style base makes a unique accent table. It will look even better if you keep the film inside. You can stack a few reels together for added strength and make the base out of smaller reels and canisters, but you’ll need to add weight to the bottom for stability.

Floor Lamps

Repurpose an old floor lamp by stacking graduated-size or same-size film reels over the post. It may be necessary to drill out the center of the reels to make space for the pole. You can also make a lamp with a large film reel by drilling a hole in the top and bottom edge of the reel and positioning it as you would if it was hanging on the wall. You can use the canister as the base, but will likely need to add weight to the bottom to support the reel, pole, and shade.

Picture Frames

This project involves making a template of the open reel spaces, then carefully cutting out any photos or artwork just slightly larger than the template to fill the spaces. Any kind of cardboard backing will suffice to glue the pieces together. As an added design touch, you can use a little glue on the reel, dust it with glitter, and allow it to dry before hanging it on the wall.

Wall or Self-Standing Clocks

For this fun weekend craft activity, you’ll need a vintage film reel, any type of decorative paper (e.g. a map), and a clock movement that can be purchased at most arts and crafts stores. The finished clock can be hung on the wall or if you prefer a self-standing clock, use the canister as the base by adhering it to the clock. You can also use the reel with the film inside and then add the clock movement.

Wine Racks

This works best if you have two large reels with circular openings. Fifteen-inch reels will hold as many as six bottles of wine. Add a sturdy base to the reels and voila – you have a unique wine storage rack. 

Digitize Today, Craft Tomorrow

Celluloid film deteriorates over time. The only way to rescue movies from obscurity and preserve precious family memories is to digitize them. This is even true if you have a working projector to view the movies.

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Congratulations on going digital and getting rid of a lot of clutter in the process! Of course, that doesn’t mean you’re off the hook when it comes to storage. Some people still create photo albums from digital files. While that’s nice, it doesn’t address how to store digital photo files or the issue of computer/smartphone memory and failed hard drives. Most PC computers come with 100+GB, which equates to 50,000 images. Although you may be under the impression that uploading images to Facebook is a viable storage method, keep in mind that they’re downsized in resolution and/or digitally compressed. You should consider ancillary storage options or a combination of services and solutions to safely store and backup your digital photos. These are the current options: 

USB/flash/thumb drives

DVDs

SD cards

External hard drive

Cloud photo storage

USB drives: Also known as flash or thumb drives, these gadgets are portable, lightweight, compact, fast and available in a large range of capacities. USB flash drives can endure 10,000 to 100,000 write/erase cycles, depending on their memory technology. On the flip side, they’re easy to lose, some computers don’t have USB ports, and they aren’t intended for long-term storage. 

DVDs: This type of storage media is fairly portable and doesn’t take up too much room with the right organization tools. You can store 4,700 1MB photos on one DVD, which is pretty awesome. The cons are that you need a DVD player or a computer with a DVD port and they can get scratched easily on the backside. 

SD cards: The small cards used in digital cameras are also a type of storage medium available in different capacities. Like USB drives, they aren’t designed for long-term storage, although under proper conditions, they can last 10 years. But, they’re quite small, can easily get lost, and are more delicate and vulnerable to damage than USB drives, especially with frequent use. 

External hard drives: Ranging in size and price from $50 (1–2TB) to $350 and higher (8TB), these hard drives typically connect via a USB connection. There are many ways to transfer, copy, or sync your photos. You can also automate your backup using your computer’s operating system, the external hard drive’s software, or a third-party backup software app or service.

Storing Photos in the Cloud

Storing photos online eliminates worrying about damage, loss, or failure of a physical storage device. Furthermore, you can expand the cloud storage space with a range of packages and price points. Saving scanned images to Amazon, Dropbox, Google, or Flickr cloud storage platforms ensures that they’re safe forever and accessible anytime, anywhere, and from any device. An important perk is that they offer automatic backups, eliminating the need to back up photos online manually. The primary drawback is that you need internet access in order to upload and access your photos. 

Once you’ve decided to use cloud storage, you’ll need to do some research to determine the best online photo storage for your needs. Here’s a short guide on four of the most popular cloud platforms. 

Amazon Photos: Prime members receive unlimited photo storage with membership. Amazon Photos can be installed on mobile devices, making it ideal if you want to edit photos on a tablet or your smartphone. 

Dropbox: This popular cloud storage option is easy to use and integrate it into your computer’s storage options. It is free up to 2GB, which won’t get you too far, especially with high-resolution photos. 

Google Photos: This cloud platform offers unlimited storage for high-resolution photos up to 16-megapixel in size, and videos up to 1080p. While Drive comes with 15GB of free storage, this is shared by other Google apps like Gmail, so you may need to pay for additional space. If you have an android smartphone, this app is likely pre-installed. 

Flickr: Designed originally for professional photographers, this visually attractive platform offers storage up to 1000 photos and videos for free, with subtle advertisements covering the cost. The only downside is that Flickr is only compatible with JPEG, GIF, and PNG images, not RAW files. 

How to Store Photos in the Cloud 

All cloud platforms have step-by-step guidance on getting started and many independent tutorials are available online. For Android or iOS devices, a variety of apps or built-in features make it easy to upload photos to the cloud, usually automatically. Dropbox has an automatic upload feature called Camera Upload, which functions the same way as the Google Photos app.

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When it was introduced by Sony and Panasonic in 1995, the MiniDV was considered a state-of-the-art recording format. But like every format, it eventually was replaced by better technology. While DVDs largely surpassed VHS as the video playback medium of choice by the early 2000s, the MiniDV continued to dominate the recording market. Here’s a look back at the once-popular format that revolutionized home moviemaking in the late-1990s to the first decade of the 21st century. 

Cute and Compact

Diminutive MiniDV tapes were a little larger than a Tic-Tac container. The format was essentially a smaller, more compact version of the 8mm and hi8 tapes that ruled the industry around the same time. And compared to the massive VHS tapes that were king of the home entertainment industry by the mid-1990s, the MiniDV was like a Chihuahua vs. a Labrador! These compact and lightweight camcorders made Little League games and birthday parties easier to record than ever before and the results were better.

MiniDV Technical Specs

Cassettes measured about 2 1/2 inches by 2 inches by 1/4 inch

Recording time: 60 minutes (standard play), 90 minutes (extended/long play), and 80/120 minute tapes were also available

MiniDV could be used to store about 13GB of other data when used with specific software

Maximum resolution of 530 horizontal lines

Three times the color information of VHS meant far brighter, richer, and vibrant colors

Camcorders that cost $800 to $1600 could record video, upload it to a computer for editing, and play it on any screen

MiniDVs connected to computers via USB or FireWire

Digital Quality

DV stands for digital video. Even though MiniDV tapes were cassettes, the quality was comparable to digital quality picture and sound. In fact, this format is still used today by some professionals. And for those who love retro formats, it’s possible to buy affordable used or refurbished MiniDV camcorders if your heart desires, however, expect to pay a premium price for the tapes.

Fun MiniDV Facts

MiniDV was used as the primary recording and editing medium for some wide-release motion pictures

The 2002 Miramax comedy Tadpole was filmed on MiniDV, although it met with criticism at the Sundance Film Festival for its poor technical quality, inconsistent color, and washed-out backgrounds

Many independent documentaries used this medium, most notably the Oscar-nominated film Supersize Me, released in 2004

Playing MiniDVs

If you no longer have a working camcorder, you can view Mini DVs through a deck that acts as a MiniDV tape player. The deck is actually a VHS tape with an adapter slot for the Mini DV. Of course, the best way to preserve and watch MiniDV tapes is to convert them to digital.

Digitize MiniDV Memories

You can digitize MiniDVs yourself, but you’ll need a working camcorder and software to undertake this endeavor. If you have stacks of tapes, this process can literally take hundreds of hours and many more if you want to do any editing. MiniDVs deteriorate and some software programs can be finicky. 

No worries – at ScanCafe, we’ve designed the entire MiniDV to digital process to be as pain-free as possible, saving you time and aggravation. So don’t hesitate – send us yesterday’s fading memories and we’ll convert them to tomorrow’s memories that last forever.

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When Kodak 16mm film was introduced in 1923 along with the Cine-Kodak amateur 16mm camera, it was considered groundbreaking. The film was less expensive, smaller, more portable, and created only a positive, thereby eliminating the time-consuming process of creating a positive from the negative. And 16mm film was made of noncombustible acetate versus the highly flammable cellulose nitrate used in 35mm film. But even after the introduction of 16mm “safety” film, movies continued to be made on highly flammable 35mm – until 1951, when Kodak discontinued its use. As such, movie theaters projecting 35mm films were expected to maintain safety standards and employ highly trained projectionists to help prevent fires.

The Downside of 16mm Film

While the use of 16mm prevented fire risk, this film was more delicate than nitrate. Film projector parts were made to prevent friction, however, both the projector and film had to be properly maintained to prevent scratches and other damage.

Careless threading could cause the film to advance improperly and get damaged.

The film ran through the gate at a rate of 36 feet per minute, causing dust and particles of gelatin to form a residue. The gate, sprockets, and guides had to be cleaned regularly to prevent scratches.

Tightening the film (cinching) on a reel caused scratches called cinch marks.

A bad splice could cause the perforations to jump out of alignment with the sprocket teeth and open new holes along the edges.

When Was Color Film Invented?

Images are formed on black and white 16mm film reels with silver and on color film with dyes. Prior to the introduction of full-color movie film, pigment was applied through methods such as hand-coloring each frame, stenciling, tinting, or toning. In 1915, M.I.T. graduate Herbert Kalmus developed an interest in creating a natural color motion picture process and founded the Technicolor Corporation. Many experiments were done, however, the process of making color film was still extremely costly and temperamental. Even so, by 1929, more than 20 companies held color film patents.:

Although most people think The Wizard of Oz (1939) was the first commercially released full-color movie, it wasn’t. That distinction belongs to the obscure 1935 movie Becky Sharp.

Technicolor was cumbersome, expensive, and moreover, the Technicolor Corporation insisted that one of their experts be present in the filmmaking process to determine color schemes (this was often the founder’s wife).

By the 1950s, Eastman Color released “monopack” color film – this Kodak camera film included the color on one strip of celluloid, a far improved and more natural-looking technology than the three-strip process used in Technicolor.

What is Super 16mm Film?

Introduced in 1969 by Swedish cinematographer Rune Ericson, Super 16 increases the image quality 20–65% by using the area of the film reserved for the optical soundtrack in standard 16mm format. Prior to 1977, the only way to shoot this film was to adapt to regular 16mm movie cameras. 

Now in its 10th season, the AMC television show The Walking Dead has been shot on Super 16mm film from the beginning of the series. Although they considered digital in the second season, they continue to use 16mm because the motion blur and grain add a bit of a classic horror vibe to the show.

Oscar-Winning or Nominated Films Shot on 16mm

  While the majority of today’s filmmakers use digital, a few still prefer film. Here are 10 recent Oscar-nominated or winning films shot on 16mm: 

City of God (2002)

The Last King of Scotland (2006): Won one Oscar

Babel (2006): Won one Oscar

The Wrestler (2008)

The Hurt Locker (2008): Won six Oscars

Black Swan (2010): Won one Oscar

Argo (2012): Won three Oscars

Beasts of the Southern Wild (2012)

Moonrise Kingdom (2012)

Carol (2015)

Digitize Celluloid Memories 

As mentioned, acetate cellulose is delicate, so if you discover a stockpile of old 16mm film reels, it’s advised to get them scanned before they completely deteriorate. ScanCafe has a long and proven track record digitizing old 16mm films. We’ve enabled countless happy customers to relive golden-era memories whenever they wish!

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The fact that a few paper documents were salvaged from the 1912 Titanic shipwreck after living on the bottom of the ocean floor for nearly 75 years is truly remarkable. Although no photographic images were found in the wreck, this is likely because the medium was in its infancy, rather than the implausibility that images could survive. Of course, being subjected to a shipwreck is the most extreme example of water damage!

Causes of Water Damage

When you consider the number of floods and storms that hit the U.S. every year, hundreds of millions of prized family photos have likely been destroyed since the sinking of the Titanic. Unforeseen problems in your house like a burst pipe or a small leak in your basement can cause damage. And on the completely mundane end of the spectrum, spilling a soft drink on a stack of photos or storing them in a damp, humid place can also cause water damage.

How Water Damages Prints and Negatives

Although some photographic materials can survive in water immersion for two days or more, others quickly deteriorate. Images can separate from mounts, the emulsion can dissolve or stick together, ink can bleed, and staining can occur. Another serious problem is that mold can grow within 48 hours at 60% relative humidity and 70° F. This can cause permanent damage including staining, weakening or loss of emulsion, as well as pose a health risk. You might think negatives or transparencies can’t be damaged by water since they aren’t paper and were developed in a water/chemical bath once upon a time. But water causes the film to swell and the emulsion to soften, making it vulnerable to damage from dirt that can get embedded in the film. And even negatives stored in plastic or acetate can get damaged.

Is Repair Possible?

The first step in rescuing water-damaged photos and negatives is to remove them from water immediately or as soon as it’s safe to do so. If you can’t dry them right away, photos can be put in a frost-free freezer for up to several months to prevent mold. Here’s what you’ll need:

Nitrile or latex gloves and N95 respirators (if flood-damaged)

Paper towels, wax paper, unprinted newsprint, clean dishcloths, or any other absorbent material to aid in the drying process

Twine, tacks, small plastic clothespins, and a clothesline 

A clean, dry space

  Tips for Drying Photos

The process of salvaging water-damaged photos takes time and patience. Restoration isn’t possible until the photos are dry and mold has been removed.

Don’t force photos apart when they’re stuck together because this will cause irreparable damage

If the photos are visibly dirty and the emulsion is intact, rinse them in a tray of clean water prior to drying

Be careful not to wipe or touch the wet photo surface and only hold it by the edges 

Lay photos face up on plain paper towels, replacing the towels every two hours until photos are dry

Use a fan to increase air movement in the room and prevent mold, but never point it directly at the photos

Reserve the clothesline method for sturdy photos and slides

After photos are dry, gently remove mold with a soot sponge cut into squares using a slow circular motion – wear gloves, a mask, and long sleeves before attempting this

Restoring Water-Damaged Images 

For some people, the idea of salvaging water-damaged photos is too overwhelming and they turn them over to a professional conservationist. This is quite costly but certainly recommended for photographs or art worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. For family photos that have sentimental value, it’s possible to scan the photos and repair them digitally. This requires a high-quality scanner, editing software (e.g. Photoshop), a lot of time, and considerable retouching skills. A professional scanning service has the equipment and trained photo restoration technicians to bring your damaged photos back to life. And after your photos are digitized, you’ll never have to worry again about damage – as long as you regularly back up the drive you store them on!

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In this day and age of instantaneous picture-taking, it’s hard to imagine that people mailed their 35mm film to be processed or brought it to their corner drug store where it was sent out. This was prior to megastores like Walgreens and Walmart offering these services on site. Whether you took photos back in the day as a serious photographer, hobbyist, or simply to document family and friends, you may have stacks of 35mm negatives hidden away somewhere. If you still have the old envelopes from these film processors, we encourage you to get them out of storage. They will evoke nostalgic memories before you even peek inside and you need to get the negatives scanned!

Age deterioration and color-shifting are two reasons why you need to seriously consider scanning negatives. But with so many product choices, it can be a little intimidating to know where to begin. When you’re shopping for negative photo scanners, it helps to look at online reviews from unbiased sites and even better, get a recommendation from someone you know. With that said, what might be the best negative scanner for someone else, may not be the optimal choice for you. As a start, you need to consider these factors:

Price

Efficiency (ease of use)

Speed

Image quality (resolution and megapixels)

Film Negative Scanners

Based on several different reviews from reputable photography-related sites, we decided to feature the following 35mm negative scanners. As a bonus, many negative photo scanners also have the capability of scanning 35mm slides, additional negative sizes, and even Super 8 and 8mm film. Scanners range in price from under $200 to more than $1,000, although we only included affordable and mid-range models. As with any major purchase, we suggest you compare prices from different retailers since this can vary to a large degree, especially on more expensive models.

Kodak Scanza

Price: $149.99–$169.99

Max. Resolution: 14/22MP

Doesn’t require computer

Pros

Extremely fast and easy to use

Scans different film sizes

Minimal cropping

Cons

Mediocre scanning quality

Very basic film holders

Wolverine Data 8-in-1 HD Film to Digital Converter

Price: $149.99–$179.99

Max. Resolution: 7200 dpi

Doesn’t require computer

Pros

Very fast

Scans many different film sizes

LCD display

  Cons

Internal memory limited to 40 images

Built-in software is inadequate

Low-quality materials

  Epson Perfection V550 Photo Flatbed Scanner

Price: $199.99

Max. Resolution: 12800 dpi

Requires computer

Pros

Excellent quality scans

Automatic multi-frame scanning

Dust and scratch removal

Good color and contrast

Cons

Crops frames excessively

Loss of some fine detail

Somewhat slow

Unreliable auto exposure

Plustek OpticFilm 8100 Film Scanner

Price: $349–$399

Max. Resolution: 7200 dpi

Requires computer

Pros

Compact

High-resolution scans

Minimal cropping

Good quality-price ratio

Multi exposure feature

Superb bundled software

Cons

No auto dust/scratch removal

Challenging to align frames properly

Tricky driver installation

Shadow detail isn’t optimal

  How to Scan Negatives

  Although you may be able to scan negatives with a flatbed scanner by creating your own holders, it’s best to use a dedicated photo device like the ones discussed above. Whatever method you choose, you’ll want to avoid getting fingerprints on the negatives and carefully remove dust prior to scanning them. A compressed can of air, white cotton or nitrile gloves, and lens cleaning tissue or a lint-free soft cloth are handy items to keep on hand if you’re a DIY scanner. If you select a lower-end model, be prepared to devote quite a chunk of time to color correcting and retouching scratches/dust with a software program (e.g. Photoshop).

  Leave the Heavy Lifting to a Professional

  If you have hundreds or even thousands of negatives, you may want to consider getting them digitized by a high-quality lab that has superb equipment at their fingertips. The photo scanning equipment we use at ScanCafe is way beyond the quality of commercially available scanners and capable of producing superior results. In fact, we have revived 175 million faded images and counting at our state-of-the-art facility in Indianapolis, restoring all these precious memories to their former glory. 

  Life is full of complicated situations, but scanning negatives doesn’t have to be one of them when you choose ScanCafe to digitize your celluloid memories!

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Hi8 and MiniDV were two of the innovations that transformed home moviemaking, back in the day. Just like today’s cellphone technology, videotapes continued to get progressively smaller, allowing people to use smaller and lighter cameras to record home movies. But the video formats that seemed incredibly groundbreaking one day, inevitably became yesterday’s forgotten medium. Of course, that’s the nature of most technology.

Perhaps you have both of these types of videos stored in the dark corner of a closet or your basement and are thinking about digitizing them. The following is a brief primer on the two formats that once ruled the day, albeit fleetingly. You need to know the difference between Hi8 MiniDV tapes if you wish to relive these memories on a Hi8 player and/or MiniDV equipment. 

Hi8 Video Format

Introduced in 1989, Hi8 was a higher-resolution version of Video8 and meant to compete with the VHS-equivalent S-VHS. Hi8 camcorders were a popular choice of amateur hobbyists and also used in television productions that required lightweight portable equipment. 

Hi8 Features

Combination of higher-grade tape and improved recording mechanisms increased the bandwidth

400-line video luminance resolution capability

PCM digital audio and XR capability for slightly increased picture quality (later versions)

Recording lengths of 30, 60 and 120 minutes

Hi8 vs 8mm

Although Hi8 and 8mm tapes are both 8 millimeters (less than a half-inch) wide, Hi8 is a newer technology featuring better video quality/resolution than 8mm. A good comparison is HD vs. 4k television. Another differentiation is that you could use 8mm film in a Hi8 camera, but couldn’t use the Hi8 film in an 8mm camera. While the Hi8 camcorder wasn’t discontinued until 2007 and tapes were made until 2012, Digital8 knocked Hi8 off the video throne shortly after its release in 1999.

MiniDV Format

Hi8 paved the way for video portability, yet the MiniDV, at a mere 6mm, embodied the true definition of a mini videotape. It also owned the distinction of being the first digital camcorder format, with the Digital8 format riding its coattails, shortly thereafter. The pro versions of MiniDV (DVcam and DVCpro) became the global standard for commercial and broadcast video productions. 

Canon, JVC, Panasonic, and Sharp jumped on the MiniDV bandwagon along with Sony, who was the sole manufacturer of Digital8. Because Sony MiniDV tapes and camcorders had competition, this likely equated to savings for savvy shoppers. But a wider assortment of models and features also could be viewed as a disadvantage, since this made selecting the right model more challenging for consumers.

MiniDV Features

PCM audio recording

500-line video resolution capability

Stronger color reproduction

640×480 still-picture resolution

Recording length up to 90 minutes in LP mode

Digitizing Hi8 and MiniDVs

Tape is an at-risk media because it’s vulnerable to deterioration, and the technology to view it on is becoming scarcer. While MiniDV tapes are still available and you can purchase second-hand camcorders online, Hi8 tapes were discontinued and it’s a longshot finding camcorders in good condition and sealed tapes that still work. To capture your late-20th century memories before it’s too late, we recommend using a professional service like ScanCafe for digitizing videos.

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