Ryokan: the Culture experience
As thrilled as I might have been to lounge around the Ryokan and Onsen the entirety of the long weekend, we decided it was for the best to actually go out and explore the area of Shimo-Suwa. It seemed the rural mountain town had a lot to offer in terms of cultural experiences, and who were we to deny ourselves of that?
Armed with a map sporting a "99 Minute Walking Tour of Shimo-Suwa," we ventured out of the Ryokan. I actually found the exact map we used, so feel free to check it out below:
We were on our way! Our first stop was to the side of the Raiko-Ji Buddhist temple, where we followed along the side of a large and beautiful cemetery until we happened upon what seemed to be a very old stone Torii gate. We bowed and entered, finding many shrines that were built in Japan's Edo period along the steep pathway and surrounded by a babbling stream. One of the most surprising shrines was a bright red Torii gate with a shrine that held many tiny statues of cats. This gate had clearly just been repainted, as it was very stark against the old stones that surrounded it.
It was not a great sign that all of us had already begun to feel the steep slopes in our leg muscles, yet we persevered and moved on to the next location. The Nasendo Highway is the path we had chosen to follow, which was high above the town below and provided beautiful views of the mountains and the whole valley. We passed by many beautiful traditional-style houses, and each seemed to have its own shrines set up meticulously in its backyard.
After a bit of walking, we made it to the gates of the Jiun-Ji Temple. It genuinely looked as though passing through the gate was entering another world, as everything was so dreary but through the gates the lush green moss was stark.
Inside, we walked carefully along the stone pathway to view the massive trees that lined the walkway. Inside, the Shrine was actively in use, as we could hear a priest chanting some kind of hymn from inside the main large shrine building. We had to strictly follow the pathway here, as all around us the loose pebbles were carefully arranged into a massive zen garden surrounding each building.
The path led us to a cemetery behind the shrine, where wooden buckets and ladles were located so that if/when a family or friend was visiting, they could cleanse the stones of their loved ones. Sound traveled quite well within the shrine, so we spoke in whispers and stepped very delicately, not wanting to disturb the priest. Down a steep stone staircase from the shrine was the Dragon's spout, where hot spring water always sprayed from a stone dragon's mouth that was carved in the middle Edo period. Though, honestly, it was more of a spittle than a spray of water.
Next, we made our way to the Harumiya Shrine. This shrine was very large and immaculately decorated, though honestly I was most compelled by the massive trees that stood around the shrine and were wrapped in some sort of special rope. I was told by Ash this was done by the priests to keep some form of spirit trapped within the trees they were wrapped on. By the entrance, two elderly attendants were stoking a fire. I'm not entirely sure why they did this, but it did add to the spiritual ambiance.
After exploring Harumiya for a while, we jaunted on over to the Ukashima-sha Shrine, which was very cool as it was located in the middle of a sandbar! Two bright red bridges metal connected the sandbar to the main mainland, which was really fun to run along.
There was construction happening along the waterway, which detracted a bit from the 'natural' beauty of the shine, but nonetheless, the shrine was very cool and it was funky to be surrounded by water on all sides. It gave the shrine a very 'disconnected from the physical world' vibe.
Next to the sandbar was a long walkway, which lead us right to the sight of the Manji Buddha statue. I was really looking forward to seeing this statue, as it was featured in nearly every aspect of the town. In paintings, in warnings, in advertisements, the Buddha was there to greet you. The story of the statue is that, in the Edo period, a sculptor was beginning to carve the stone, when it suddenly began bleeding and the people panicked. Convinced it was sacred, the stone was then carefully carved into the likeness of Amitabha Buddha, with a somewhat humorous appearance of a tiny head with a large nose upon a bulbous body. By the statue were instructions on how to properly pray, which we gave an honest shot. The instructions read; Bow once and say your prayer in your heart, then circle the statue 3 times while chanting the prayer in your heart, then bow once more.
This was the end of our cultural walk, as it then began to rain and it was very cold out so we did not want to linger. On our way back to the Ryokan, we passed by the Gebabashi Bridge, which was the oldest standing wooden structure in Shimo-Suwa. It was shaped like a half moon, aka it was VERY steep. It was cool to see where the bridge once stood, as it was now in the smack middle of a main road.
On our last day in Shimo-Suwa, we finally made our way to the Suwako Watch & Clock museum, a museum that sports the oldest Hydrolyc clock tower in Japan. Shimo-Suwa is known as the birthplace of the modern clock in Japan, so it was only natural that they had a whole museum dedicated to clocks. It was fun to walk around the main museum and see many different forms of clocks dating way back in the day to modern watches, and there were several interactive exhibits that explained how clocks worked, which was informative and fun. The main call of the museum, however, was the world's first fully operational water-powered astronomical clock tower that was in the courtyard.
This clock is over 900 years old (WOAH), and had been refurbished with (kind of creepy) statues to represent the workers that used to remain within the clock tower. We were actually allowed inside the tower, where two staircases lead you from the ground floor (where all of the old tech was), to the second floor, where an astronomical globe was carved with 1314 stars that were known at the time. (..I think. I honestly cannot find the paper that told me the star count)
Each hour, when the clock would chime, the main tower in the center (seen above) would spin with little statues, and little men would strike on drums or on bells. On the right-hand side, two doors would swing open and reveal a wax figure animatronic (again, kind of creepy) that would narrate...something. I don't know Japanese practically at all, so I did not catch what the animatronic was saying, but it was funky.
Our time in Shimo-Suwa had come to an end, and I have this to say: Nowhere in the US can you walk around a tiny town with this much history. Literally, since half of the shrines were made before the US was founded. Isn't that insane??