Tips for having more fun and less fuss in the Tayrona National Natural Park
Falling for Mother Nature
As a participant of the 4th Asian Students Environment Platform (ASEP) centering on “Biodiversity and humans” in 2015, I visited Cuc Phuong National Park, Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island whose flora and fauna fascinated me. Feeling inspired after this program funded by AEON Environment Foundation, I desire to travel to mega biodiversity hotspots and learn how humans protect Mother Nature. Luckily, I have gained the opportunity to stay in Colombia, the only South American country bordering both the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. For me, a Vietnamese environment enthusiast who has tried the salt and sand of the Pacific Ocean, the Tayrona National Natural Park beside the Atlantic Ocean is the top of my list to visit. So there I came. And satisfied I felt. I strongly believe it is worthwhile for nature lovers and adventurers to discover the biodiversity and beauty of the snow-capped mountain range, the green jungle, the blue seawater, the white waves, and the eco-lifestyle in Tayrona. The park receives large influxes of visitors from all over the world, many of whom come from the US and Europe. Would you be one of them? Would you like to inhale the clean air, see lush plants, big stones, and hear the relentless call of the Caribbean coast? If so, I would love to share some tips for having more fun and less fun there as follows.
Buses at La Bomba near the bus terminal of Santa Marta run towards Tayrona National Natural Park at the price of 8,000 pesos for each passenger. When the bus is about to stop in front of the park, the conductor shouts “Tayrona”. Thus, during 45 minutes on the bus, passengers need to pay attention to his calling. When I came back, the fare was only 7,000 pesos. They can either give you a ticket or simply collect your money, hence you should ask from the beginning. If your hostel or hotel is not far from the park, you can try asking for less money. Remember to tell the conduct to remind you where to get off. If you stay from another side of Santa Marta and travel in small groups with heavy items, you can consider reaching the park by taxi. But unlike in Bogotá, Medellín, and Bucaramanga, taxis in Santa Marta do not have thermometers and may charge foreigners more than natives. Thus, negotiate the price firmly and clearly before hopping on. For example, if the taxi driver tells you it costs 10,000 pesos, you should ask like this “10,000 for a person or 10,000 pesos in total?” You had better learn basic Spanish to bargain!
Shuttle buses will take you further into the jungle from the entrance of the park when all seats are occupied. Catching the bus to save your energy for your 2-hour journey is better than hiking.
There are also buses in the park that either head towards the entrance of the park 3,000 pesos or to Santa Marta at 7,000 pesos. Remember to ask the driver carefully about its final destination before getting on.
What to bring: personal documents
For Colombians, the entrance fee is 16,000 pesos with the presentation of their identity card. For foreigners, it is 42,000 pesos and any foreigner needs to show his or her passport for the park staff to make a black and white copy. For students, the student card equals to a discount – only 8,500 pesos. For foreigners studying in Colombia, both a student card and a passport are needed. Visa is not accepted, so remember to bring your passport or at least a hard copy of passport. Otherwise, you can take a picture of your passport in your phone and pay 2,000 pesos to print it in a small photocopy shop right in front of the park. There is no internet connection in the administration, the photocopy shop, and restaurants in that area. To get Wi-Fi is like finding water in the dessert, one needs to walk to a nearby village or take a mototaxi. It is advisable that you use Movistar or (better) Claro to access Internet and call your companion(s) especially when the weather is often rainy and the phone signals are weak. I suggest you bring waterproof transparent bags with zippers (not buttons) to protect your passport and digital devices like phones, cameras, and chargers from getting wet by the damp jungle and the sudden rain. Be prepared because there are few shelters. Remember that the park does not allow visitors to bring plastic bags, but on the day I visited the park, nobody checked my backpack´s contents.
In a nutshell, passport is the prerequisite for foreigners to enter the park. Bring it! It may come in handy in case you have an accident and others people can identify you more quickly. Speaking of accidents, you should attach your basic medical information such as blood type or chronic diseases for other people to do first-aid quickly. This is highly recommendable if you are alone.
Restaurants outside the park prefer small changes from visitors. So does the ticket office. They really do not have plenty of small change. You can pay for something with big notes of 50,000 pesos somewhere else to receive small change, especially coins. Otherwise, it will take you and the long line of visitors behind you more time to buy tickets.
Walking for 2 hours through stones, stairs of wooden bridges, slippery soil, and sand would suck a lot of energy from you, and you feel thirsty. There are some people selling cool water, coconut, and ice cream in the jungle, but not to mention that they are a little more expensive than those outside, they do not benefit you much. Cool water makes the drinker feel fresh but at the same time feel thirstier. Furthermore, the sweeter the drink is, the more intense the thirst is. Therefore, you should bring water at normal temperature from outside. One liter of water for the way into the park is enough and you can buy water from any stall along the beach for the way back.
Indigenous people selling coconuts in the jungle
If you want to take pictures with them, you have to give them some money or buy their coconuts, each one costs 2,000 pesos. The park is their home, so they come in and out of the park free. Apart from their mother tongue, they can speak Spanish or English pretty well.
For a long walk, a raincoat proves to be more stable and more convenient than an umbrella because you do not have to hold it. Besides, your raincoat can help you avoid ants, mosquitoes, and other insects.
Walking inside the vast park makes you feel very hot. Because the dense jungle blocks big wind, you had better bring a portable durable fan of fabric or plastic or a small one running on batteries.
Besides, food, shoes, swimsuit, high SPF sunscreens, insect repellents, hats, medicine, an interesting book, and some clothes are enough. Do not bring too much, a heavy backpack slows you and exhausts you before you reach the beach.
Hiking, camping, swimming, snorkeling, relaxing on a hammock and many more activities await lonely travelers, couples, groups of friends, and families. There are tours and services for visitors to enjoy their time with Mother Nature the way they like. For me, I took a one-day trip by taking a bus from the entrance to the jungle, passing wooden bridges climbing over big and small stones, playing with the seawater, and letting the waves of the Caribbean Sea pushing me up and down. My friend rode a horse back by paying 20,000 pesos in 30 minutes, but I preferred walking alone. She thought it was dangerous, but I was totally safe and sound. I feared nothing except the torrential rain. Gladly, during my trip back, it did not rain cats and dogs – just light rain for a short time. I also met visitors coming in and coming out of the park who smiled at me and greeted me despite their tiredness. I enjoyed walking alone in the green, yellow, and brown flora and the quiet atmosphere although it was like the Amazing Race. Because I was afraid that the park would close before I reached the entrance and maybe there was no shuttle bus available. Therefore, I strode non-stop in one hour. I won myself. I proved myself that I should exceed my physical limit. Sweat were pouring down my red face and my tanned back, yet a sense of fulfillment filled my heart.
Phew! All of my fatigue disappeared when the wind from outside the window of the shuttle bus blew my wet hair and face. Like me, many people wanted to save their energy by taking the 7-minute bus back to the entrance. I made the best of the last minutes inside the back by admiring the big green trees and smaller plants along the way. I reached the entrance gate at 4:25 pm. When waiting for my friend there, I acquired interesting information about the park from the police. Actually, the park did not accept any visitor after 5:00 pm but the gate is still open for people to leave after that time.
There are no policemen and few guides in the jungle, so please follow the signs along the way. Do not tread off the trail in the jungle or swim in dangerous waters near red flags. The Caribbean coast is fantastic with its blue water yet fatal with its unexpected currents. Curiosity killed the cat after all. There have been many visitors challenging themselves with their swimming skill but getting killed by their curiosity. Drowning does not exclude anyone. Safety first!
If you are not sure about anything, do not hesitate to ask the police, the park staff and fellow visitors. With my experience on October 15, 2016 in the Tayrona National Natural Park, I hope you would enjoy your time there. ¡Dale!
Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana