#tefl life

[topclassteacher-blog]

What it’s like to live and teach English in South Korea

I have been teaching for nearly 10 years and during that time, I have had the privilege of teaching in a number of different countries. Therefore, I’d like to write a few posts for other  travellers who may be thinking of following in my footsteps.

So, first of all, let’s go back to where it all began; Busan, South Korea. The year is 2008 and I had just finished my degree. Like a lot of graduates, I didn’t really know what I wanted to do with my life but I had spent the previous few years working with kids and I had loved it. Therefore, when my mum told me that the daughter of one of her friends was teaching in South Korea, I thought why not?

Before Going

One of the worst parts of my whole experience was before I went. First of all, a mate of mine was supposed to come with me but he dropped out - after we had had our leaving party! Then, the agent who I had been working with went on holiday and my visa application sat on her desk untouched. This meant that I was late arriving and I missed the training provided by the EPIK (English Program in Korea). That being said, I have since been told that the training was not fantastic and that a lot of my peers went to their respective schools feeling far from confident.

If you are planning to go to Korea, you must be in possession of the following things:

- A Bachelor’s Degree

- A passport from a native speaking English country (UK, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Ireland)

The following things are also important to consider

- No visible tattoos

- No history of mental illness

- No drug use (you are drug tested when you arrive)

However, remember that most employers in South Korea will pay for:

- Your rent

- Your flight (this will be reimbursed on arrival)

Arriving

Upon arriving in Busan, South Korea, I was taken to my school directly from the plane. Imagine my horror when I realised this - I was wearing a Hooters baseball top as it was the most comfortable and loose fitting thing I owned. I met the principal and had to give a little speech in front of all the other teachers - again something I wasn’t prepared for.

Just a day later, I was in front of my first ever class. I had been given a few textbooks (even then I could see what poor quality they were) and the powerpoints created by the previous incumbent of my position. I cobbled together an introduction lesson and stood up in front of the class. Now here is a huge difference to consider - will you be in a public school (organised by EPIK) or a hagwon (a private academy)? For an explanation of the difference, see the section below. I was with EPIK which meant I was assisted by a Korean co-teacher who translated everything I said into Korean. At the time, I thought this was great but I now realise that this is really bad practice. I was really glad she was there that day though as, 25 minutes into a 40 minute lesson, I ran out of things to say. Fortunately, she stepped in and ‘rescued’ me and by the time the next class rolled around, I had prepared a little more; enough to fill the time at least.

On the whole, I did the best I could in class but with no formal training, I acknowledge my lessons were pretty awful. That’s why I would definitely recommend getting a CELTA before teaching anywhere. Not only does it prepare you for what it’s like to stand in front of a class but you also get a slight salary bump as well.

EPIK or Hagwon?

EPIK

Advantages

A Korean co-teacher handles discipline and is on hand to translate any difficult words.

You don’t teach the same class all the time so you can ‘rinse and repeat’ lessons which means less planning.

Your classes are often cancelled as they are not high priority. This means you often get paid for doing nothing. For me, this was actually a disadvantage because I went stir-crazy with nothing to do for long periods.

You work a traditional work week - 8.30-4.30, Monday-Friday.

You are much less likely to get bad accommodation, although this does happen.

Disadvantages

Days are very repetitive

You may be the only native speaker teacher there which can make meeting new people difficult

You sometimes feel like a circus attraction - the kids used to come to my class just to stare at me or pull hairs out of my arms.

Hagwon

Advantages

Higher salary

You teach the same children so you have a chance to learn names and build a relationship with them

There are other native speakers around for you to interact with.

You are given full lesson plans to work with

Disadvantages

There are a lot of shady operators who do not treat their teachers very well, e.g. a friend of mine was made to live in her boss’ basement.

You work until late. The normal work day is 2-10pm.

Your classes are NEVER cancelled. If you are contracted to work those hours, there will always be students there.

You have to handle discipline yourself.

Life in Korea

Socialising in Korea

Socialising in Korea was incredible. I quickly got myself into a football team of native speaker teachers and travelled all over Korea with them and I had a large group of friends. While the majority of my free time was spent out drinking and partying, I also had some of the most incredible experiences there including:

- Making Kimchi (see food) with monks

- Diving with sharks at the Busan Aquarium

- Jumping off the Daegu Tower (unfortunately this is now closed)

- Playing in a volleyball tournament on Haeundae Beach in Busan

- Being invited to a co-teacher’s house for traditional Korean food

- Visiting incredible temples - Yonggungsa in Busan is stunning!

2. Korean Food

I miss the food - my God how I miss the food! When I arrived, I wasn’t convinced by the food but after being shown around by my new friends, I realised that Korean food is fantastic. Here are some of the things you need to try

- Kimchi. The Korean staple, Kimchi is fermented cabbage served in a chilli sauce. While it may not sound nice, it’s different in every restaurant that you visit and when you find 2-3 restaurants where they make good kimchi, you will not be able to stop eating it. Popular variations are Kimchi-jigae (Kimchi soup) and Kimchi-Pahjon (Kimchi pancake) which are also delicious.

- Samgyupsal and Bulgogi. Order raw meat and cook it on your own personal grill with onions, garlic, Korean chilli paste and Kimchi. Then enjoy family style!

- Hae-Jang-Guk. Translated this means ‘hangover soup’ and boy does it do the job. The contents are pork spine with a fiery broth. The meat just melts in your mouth and you can add rice for extra yumminess.

- Tang-Soo-Yuk. Korea’s answer to sweet and sour, this is much more tasty in my opinion. Sticky and really unhealthy, it’s another thing you won’t want to stop eating.

- Ojingo. Squid that is served while it is still moving. This is an acquired taste but something you have to try. The sensation of the suckers sticking to the inside of your mouth is bizarre but unique.

3. Korean people/customs

On the whole, you will find Koreans a pleasant enough bunch and some of the younger generations have grown up having native speaking English teachers so it is normal for them. Make an effort to have some Korean friends even though it’s tempting to just hang around with other English speakers. Some of my best experiences came with my Korean friends Gyu-Ho, and (Super) Hans. However, there are a few things you should be aware of. Do not get into any kind of conflict with a Korean as your status as a foreigner means you are always in the wrong (even in the eyes of the police in some cases). Koreans are fiercely protective of their language and are not especially helpful when you make mistakes. Do what I didn’t and take classes to make sure your pronunciation is spot on.

Korean people (especially women) love to form relationships with native speakers and while they are very affectionate and undeniably attractive in a lot of cases, this can cause problems with old-fashioned families. One friend of mine was told that he would marry his Korean girlfriend ‘over her father’s dead body’.

This section seems unduly negative and I don’t want it to be. Most of the people I met were great people and were so happy that I was there to share in their culture. The negative sides of this part are more a case of ‘forewarned is forearmed’.

In terms of customs, you will often find that you will need to remove your shoes before entering a house or, in my case, even a school. However, they will often provide slippers/sandals for you to wear.

While eating there are a few customs to be aware of. A lot of meals in restaurants are served on low tables which require you to sit cross-legged. I am the least flexible person ever so this was not an enjoyable experience for me. Also, the person sitting opposite you is your ‘partner’ and you are ‘responsible’ for them, Make sure they always have a drink in front of them and serve it to them with one hand while holding the other on your bicep, e.g. serve with your right hand, your left hand should be on your right bicep. Finally, please please please learn to use chopsticks before you go. When I arrived, I didn’t know how to use them and it caused me no end of embarrassment. When I finally learned, my Korean co-teachers and waiters/waitresses in restaurants were so happy. It’s a small thing but it makes a huge difference.

The last major custom that you should be aware of is the different approach to nudity. Koreans will often visit jjimjilbangs (spas) with friends and coworkers. Once inside, the men and the women are separated and go into large spa rooms/hot baths completely naked. This is normal but Korean people are a little prone to staring especially if, like me, you are quite hirsute.

4. Shopping in Korea

While you are in Korea, you will still be able to get a lot of your home comforts. In Busan, they have a Costco where you can buy a lot of Western food although you have to buy it in bulk.

In terms of clothes, you need to be aware that sizes differ drastically. Here in the UK, when buying a pair of shorts, I wear a medium but in Korea my shorts were an XL! Also, for women, if you are busty, it can be very difficult to find clothes that will fit. A friend of mine once went into a shop and the shop assistant pointed at her chest and said “No size, no size”.

As you might imagine, electronics are cheap so there’s no need to take too many gadgets with you. I bought a really nice camera out there much cheaper than I could have bought it in the UK.  

5. Transport/Getting Around in Korea

The best way of travelling from city to city in Korea is the KTX (the bullet train). This super-fast train is affordable and comfortable and is a pleasure to travel on. If you’re on a budget there is also the mugunghwa which is an older, slower train that is used to get to smaller towns and villages.

In terms of travelling in the city, most of the big cities have a subway system which makes it easy to get around. I used this opportunity to learn the Korean letters as all the stations are in Korean and in English. There are also buses that you can use if there isn’t a subway station near where you are heading. Finally, taxis are much cheaper than in the UK (I’d say cheaper even than Uber) but make sure that you know how to pronounce where you’re going - I got into a rather heated argument with a taxi driver about my pronunciation of White Hotel as the Korean pronunciation was White-uh Hoe-ter. As you might imagine, I was quite upset about having my pronunciation of English words corrected.

Last word

Overall, Korea is a wonderful place and a part of me still misses living there. The quality of life is great and as an English teacher you will be financially comfortable.

I hope this guide to living in Korea has been helpful and if there is anything I haven’t covered or if you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

[sarahjai]

How I just described myself to Patrick:

‘That kind of ‘could break down in tears at any moment’ kind of tired.’

[songsaboutbuildingsandfood]

Nobody ever makes a guide about coming back

There is a lot online about “getting out”. How to apply for EPIK, JET, and all sorts of other schemes is clearly explained online. But what is there for those TEFL teachers who return or want to move on to a very different country? Not much. Maybe it’s reasonable that there is not much on the topic, since there is naturally no guide for how one should live life in one’s home country. Still, I’d like share a few things I learned in the process of resettling.

Going home starts abroad

Okay, that sounds weird, but make sure whatever you’re doing abroad will help you at home. I get that some people do TEFL as a way of taking an extended vacation, but it shouldn’t be just a vacation unless you are abroad for less than six months. Keep learning and get some new skills while you’re at it. The most productive people and best teachers I know abroad are people who are constantly reading, writing, making and learning.

Personally, I had to make some hard choices in this area. My first job abroad was working through EPIK in a Korean public school. While there are a lot of great things about EPIK, I figured out it was not for me pretty quickly. The job itself was just not interesting, and more importantly I wasn’t really building on the things I had studied in my MA program. It would not look good on my résumé and was not really contributing to my skillset in the way I had hoped. After my contract finished, I left my steady job, my adopted hometown, and my new friends and took a slight pay cut to come to the great unknown of China. Although I miss some things about Korea, I have to say I don’t regret leaving for a moment. The university job in China was basically what I wanted to do in the US and has really put me on the right track professionally.

Decide when and where you want to return

Make sure you are returning when you have a sufficient amount of money saved and have met the professional or personal goals you have set for yourself. Think about holidays and other important events you can’t miss at home or in your adopted country.

Decide where you want to be when you go back. Unless you work in a field that has serious shortages, it is unlikely that an employer will offer you a job before you have plans to return. In fact, if you do want to apply to jobs while abroad, I recommend “borrowing” a friend or relative’s address for your résumé, provided they live an area where you would like to work.  

Unless you have a very substantial amount of money saved or want to move somewhere very cheap, it is probably best to find someone to move in with, at least for the short-term, so you can get on your feet.

Personally, I moved back to New York City after my stint abroad, but this was only possible because my partner lives here, so I had cheap housing I could count on. Also, I used to live here so I am familiar with what is available in terms of job hunting. If this weren’t the case, I would absolutely not choose this city as my starting point because it is just so expensive.

Be prepared but don’t rush

It’s important to be prepared when you come back. For example, I printed out my résumé and a whole bunch of materials I’d used with my students before returning to the US. I ended up changing my résumé a bit, but in that pile of materials were some that got me second interviews and ultimately jobs. However, keep in mind that in the education world, hiring tends to happen pretty late (I work in adult ed but my K-12 buddies have had similar experiences). I am sure there are other organizations that hire late for all kinds of reasons, too.

My point is: it is unlikely you will get a job before coming back. People will say things like “you’re brave to go back without a job lined up” but the truth is that many of these people have been abroad a long time and just don’t realize how it works. In fact, if I were an employer, I would never hire someone living in China for obvious reasons!

Be ready with an updated resume, letters of reference, contact info for people who can provide good references in “good English”, a cover letter “template” you have created for yourself, and class materials/samples of student work if you are applying in the field of education. In my experience, the reference contact info is more important than the letters of reference.

Deal with your stuff

Before I moved back to the US, I dealt with my stuff by getting rid of most of it. I know that may not work well for everyone, but for the average young (or not so young) person working abroad for less than five years, I think it’s the best course of action. Shipping stuff is expensive, and you may not have much space where you’re going.

I pared it down to the clothes I would definitely need in my new life, a few souvenirs, my valuables, and some things that would be hard to find again back home. That was one big suitcase and two smaller ones. Honestly, I could have brought even less.

Happy returning!!

[songsaboutbuildingsandfood]

Things I’ll miss when I leave China

I'm leaving China next Saturday to go home, back to the States. Ten days. It doesn't feel real yet.

Here are some of the things I'll miss:

The food

The food culture here is just awesome. It's awesome how you can go into some restaurants with a whole bunch of people and order a huge variety of dishes and share them together. It's awesome how you can go into a restaurant by yourself and get a nice meal of meat, rice, and a side dish for less than 2.50 USD. Without going into detail about specific dishes, the food is just awesome and often healthy, too. A lot of dishes are either plant-based or plant-heavy. I know that there have been issues with food safety here, but I believe that if you stay away from the more heavily processed things you will most likely be fine.

The city

Dalian is a nice city. It doesn't have as much going on as some cities or as many tourist attractions, but it's a well-developed, second-tier town. I love being able to walk to the beach or hike up a hill and look out over the sea whenever I feel like it.

The community

I like the people I've met here a lot and we've had many fun times as community. Sadly, many of the foreign folk I've met are leaving or have left already.

I also enjoy the local people I've met and really wish I'd gotten to know some local Chinese people a bit better. It's not that people here are unfriendly; I think it's due to a few factors. Most Chinese people my age are like me in that they're getting on with their lives and careers and don't have a lot of extra time to socialize. I'm not very socially outgoing anyway. There is also the language barrier and the fact that I'm not single, so I'm not trying to meet people to date.

My students

For the most part, I like the students I've worked with. Although there are a few that drive me crazy, the rest are motivated, nice kids. I like the fact that I've gotten to know them a bit more individually this year.

Traveling

Getting out of Dalian is very doable. So far, I have been to Qingdao, Hangzhou, Shanghai, and Lushun, as well as Thailand and South Korea. Actually, being so close to Korea has been a big advantage, because I have been able to see friends in Korea twice now.

Still, there are plenty of places I have yet to see. For a while, I was considering Malaysia and Japan as possible travel destinations, but I haven't made it over there yet, mostly due to financial constraints. I think that if I were to come back to Asia, it would probably be Southeast Asia rather than the north. I actually prefer heat over cold and I really loved my trips to Hong Kong and Thailand.

[songsaboutbuildingsandfood]

What saved me this semester

I don't really have a lot of work at my job. The problem is that all the work I do have happens in about a four week period.

I've been pretty busy lately, but things are starting to slow down. I'm finishing up the semester here and preparing to move back to the States at the end of July. Therefore, I'd like to do a few more blog posts here about my time in China before it's time to go.

Here are some things that saved me this crazy semester:

film-english.com

This website by Kieran Donaghy has nice *short* films and corresponding ESL lessons. I didn't really use the lesson plans per se, but I definitely borrowed some of the ideas and films presented here. It was a good way to break up the monotony of boring writing classes.

Great Grammar for Great Writing, by Barbara Smith-Palinkas, Elena Vestri Solomon, and Keith S. Folse

The actual textbook we use at work is not really suited for TEFL, so I've used this book from time to time instead. It has simple, straightforward "grammar for writing" exercises.

Youtube

I don't really have a go-to channel here, but I've used it mostly to present concepts like minimal pairs (like "v" vs. "w") and basic presentation skills.

My friend A.

I have a coworker who has helped me numerous times with day-to-day stuff. He's not Chinese, but he's spent the past 20 years in Asia, so he knows his way around things like banking here. By the way, to send money back to your home account, you need the full bank name, the bank address, the swift code/IBAN and your own account information, like the account name and number. You also need your employer to provide *payslips and tax documents* if you are sending a substantial amount.

The coffee shop down the street

Because that is where I actually get my work done.

[songsaboutbuildingsandfood]

Update & Re-opening

So, I lied. I didn’t mean to. I really thought I wouldn’t blog here again. 

But, then I realized that I still had something to share, especially in an atmosphere where there is so little content related to teaching in China compared to teaching in Korea. I realized how much I relied on peoples’ blogs before I moved abroad, and how I still do sometimes, even though I am a bit out of the loop these days. 

I also have an update: I am renewing my contract at my university, but only for one semester. I have a relationship with someone back home and family members who definitely cannot come and visit me here, so the decision was really more related to that than anything else. I enjoy my current job a lot, and I find it so much more engaging than work I have done previously. 

What I would like to do in the coming months is to share a little bit about the basics of teaching at a university in China. I’m thinking along the lines of what to bring/not bring and what to expect from the students. After all, since I’m pseudo-anonymous here, I have nothing to lose, right? ;)

Anyway, stay tuned, let’s see where this goes. 

[ilivebetweenconcretewalls-blog]

Lunch with Head teacher and some other people. Somehow (?) someone brought up Ayn Rand... Head Teacher: 'I don't really read but I loved 'The Fountainhead'. Much nodding and agreeing. 'Oh yeah me too, I don't usually like serious books but 'Atlas Shrugged' is OMG awesome', 'yeah', 'Have you read it E?', 'nah, it doesn't sound like my kinda thing' 'yeah?' 'yeah, it's about rich people who think they are better than everyone else 'cause they don't give a fuck, right?' 'yeah I guess it is...'

'I don't really read, but I loved 'The Fountainhead'.

That's it, that's what should be on the back of every copy.

[genderpenguin]

Today my gender is I LOVE MY DUCKLINGS OMG Y'ALL BETTER WIN 'CUZ THERE'S NO WAY YOU'RE NOT THE BEST I HAVE FIRST SECOND AND THIRD & K WITHIN THE TOP FIFTEEN.