#textile issue

[thenotepasser-blog]

Textile Primer: Manufactured Non-biodegradable Fibres

Textile choice is at the heart of ethical fashion. Organic, recycled, handwoven, biodegradable, manmade. These are all options that have different environmental and social costs to consider when shopping. I've asked my knowledgeable friend Summer of tortoise & lady grey to help us sort them out. In the following primer, she has laid out the benefits and drawbacks of the most common manufactured non-biodegradable fibres and made recommendations for buying new textiles. 

Nylon

Nylon is a hard-wearing and versatile manmade fibre derived from petrochemicals that is used for a range of products, including swimwear, pantyhose, and even carpets. 

Benefits

Nylon is hard-wearing, and high-quality nylon lasts well. The textile is infinitely recyclable. Water-intensity of production is much lower than for natural fibres. Recycled nylon is available, which enables designers to access the function of nylon (particularly for swimwear and pantyhose) whilst reusing waste nylon. Econyl is a certified recycled nylon made from fishing nets and clothing. 

Drawbacks

Nylon is a petroleum-based fibre, thus made from a carbon-intensive non-renewable resource. Nylon is not biodegradable and will persist in the ecosystem even as it eventually breaks apart. Production is energy- intensive, taking three times the energy of conventional cotton. Nylon can only be dyed with the most harmful dying practices and is not suitable for low impact colouring techniques. It is chemical-intensive too, and results in the release of nitrous oxide (N2O), a potent greenhouse gas that has contributed significantly to global warming. During the 1990s, N2O emissions from a single nylon plant in the UK were thought to have a global warming impact equivalent to more than 3% of the UK’s entire CO2 emissions. 

Recommendations

Avoid purchasing new nylon products, unless they are made with recycled nylon. If you have old nylon clothing to dispose of, investigate where you can have it recycled to ensure that existing nylon stock is reused and does not end up in the landfill. 

Polyester

Polyester is another manmade petroleum-based fibre that is also quite versatile and frequently used for its wrinkle-free properties. Polyester clothing tends not to need to be ironed to maintain its shape and surface. 

Benefits

Polyester does not need special care or ironing to be properly looked after, so it is a convenient textile. It tends to be quick drying. High-quality polyester lasts well and maintains the quality of it’s surface. Water-intensity of production is much lower than for natural fibres. There are an increasing number of new polyester-type fabrics that are made from recycled plastics, including the certified recycled fabric Repreve, which is made from recycled plastic bottles and commonly used in sportswear and men’s swimwear. There are also some producers that recycle old polyester clothing to create new textile stock. 

Drawbacks

Polyester is another petroleum-based fibre, thus made from a carbon-intensive non-renewable resource. It is not biodegradable and will persist in the ecosystem even as it eventually breaks apart. Although it is less energy- intensive than nylon to produce, it still requires more than double the energy of conventional cotton to produce. The production of polyester uses harmful chemicals, including carcinogens, which, if emitted to water and air untreated can cause significant environmental damage. Most polyester clothing on the market is cheap, poor quality fast fashion, which will last few wears. 

Recommendations

Avoid purchasing new polyester garments unless they are manufactured with fabric made from recycled polyester or recycled plastics. If you have old polyester garments to dispose of, investigate where you can have them recycled so that existing polyester stocks do not end up in the landfill. 

Visit Summer's textile review section to get updates, or sign up to her mailing list here. 

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[thenotepasser-blog]

Sweet Clover Alpaca Farm

When my family and I arrived at Sweet Clover Alpaca, we were surprised at the farm's size and location. Even though it is the largest alpaca farm in Central Arkansas, it is still a small family farm run by Debbie Shannon. Debbie is an amazing woman who manages the farm, raises and cares for the animals, spins their fleece into yarn, and mentors others who want to raise alpacas. She was happy to answer all of our questions, including those about the size of the farm. Turns out, alpacas don't need that much space or food, adding to their sustainability. 

At Sweet Clover Alpaca, reclaimed fence panels make up the barn that sits behind the house. Two sweet dogs keep the herd safe from wildcats. Alpacas are so gentle, I can't imagine how they would defend themselves! Debbie told us they are so mild, they interact well with children and my young cousins were no exception. 

READ: BUYING NATURAL FIBRES: ALPACA

Alpaca has recently become popular because it is being advertised as (and fortunately is) more sustainable than cashmere. 

Alpaca fleece rivals cashmere in it's warmth and softness, but alpacas are more sustainable livestock than cashmere goats. With their soft padded feet and low food requirements, alpacas are very gentle on their environment. They are ruminants, which means they cut the grass they eat rather than ripping it out by the roots like goats. After annual shearing, alpaca fleece is graded by hand and all of the grades can be used; the better grades are made into yarn for knits while the lower grades can be used as filler for duvets or for insulation. Alpaca fleece comes in twenty-two shades that can be blended together for more variety, reducing the need for dyes and the water consumption that accompanies the process. Unlike sheep's wool, alpaca fleece does not contain lanolin which must be removed before wool can be spun. This not only further reduces the chemical and water footprint of alpaca fleece, but also makes it hypoallergenic. And at the end of it's life, it will biodegrade as it is a natural fibre.

I really loved learning about and meeting the alpacas and I'm grateful for Debbie's kindness and hospitality. I'm tempted to have my own farm and maybe one day I will! If you are ever in Conway, Arkansas be sure and contact Debbie to check out her herd. You can also purchase yarn spun on site and products made from the national fiber pool on her website. 

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