Walking in Munnar’s tea plantations
The Verdict: We felt Kerala was not bad, but overhyped, egregiously overpriced in December, and not worth the opportunity cost of traveling to a country with good tourist infrastructure (potable water, good roads, access to information for travel planning, decent affordable lodging, competent customer service, etc.).
Why Kerala? We needed to be in south Kerala in late December for a wedding and wanted to tack on a ~week-long vacation somewhere warm and nearby. We had originally hoped to travel to Sri Lanka but changed plans due to the political situation there in 2022. We loved our trip to the Maldives after the last time we were in India, back in 2019, but figured we should try somewhere different this time. Traveling somewhere further like Thailand, Bali, etc. seemed too far/tiring. So we decided to spend our week exploring different parts of Kerala, a state we have long been intrigued by given its renowned progressive politics and high literacy rate, the famous backwaters houseboat scene, and my interest in seeing south India, which I have never visited despite having been to India ~15 times.
Kovalam: Beach town at the southern tip of Kerala. We started by spending 4 nights here specifically for the wedding. It was fine, but not a place we’d go out of our way to visit. Since we were only there for the wedding and didn’t do any tourist activities, we won’t focus on Kovalam in this post.
View of the water from Leela Kovalam, the resort we stayed at
Alleppey/Kumarakom: Alleppey (aka Alappuzha), on the west coast of the state, is the most famous area for taking a houseboat on the Kerala backwaters. When we were planning our trip around August, about 4 months in advance of our travel, we had a really hard time finding a decent houseboat with reliable reviews so we opted to skip this. (Our friends found a ~$400/night houseboat on Airbnb that had great reviews and they really liked it). Instead, we stayed nearby at Kumarakom Lake Resort, a very nice but crazy expensive luxury resort. [4-5 hour drive from Kovalam]
On a sunset boat ride on Kumarakom Lake
Thekaddy: On the eastern side of Kerala; known for Periyar National Park, a tiger reserve where it turns out nobody ever sees the tigers. We had planned a half-day hike in Periyar with the hopes of seeing wild elephants and other wildlife, but unfortunately missed the tour. We stayed at another ridiculously expensive resort here, which wasn’t anywhere as nice as Kumarakom. Thekaddy is skippable. [4 hour drive from Kumarakom]
Traditional dance performance at our hotel in Thekaddy
Munnar: In the northeastern corner of Kerala, Munnar is known for its scenic tea plantations. The scenery really did deliver, but everything else about our experience here was so poor (the process of trying to book a hotel, get information about activities/tours, find safe restaurant food in town, constantly getting ripped off, commute times, safety on the crowded and winding roads) that we cannot recommend it. [4 hour drive from Thekaddy]
Walking on a tea plantation in Munnar
Kochi: We ended our trip at Kochi airport, from which we flew to Mumbai. We had the chance to spend a couple hours in downtown Kochi, which was compact and charming, but didn’t have time to check out other neighborhoods.
Inside Kumarakom Lake Resort
We spent 2 nights here and the experience was basically perfect. It was about as similar to the Maldives as anywhere I’ve been -- standalone villa with a private plunge pool, charming decor, gorgeous views of the lake, 5-star service, delicious food, activities like yoga, pottery making, etc. Even though it was so comfortable, in my opinion the $400/night room rate is still completely egregious for India. You can travel to Italy, Switzerland, Spain, Scotland, etc. and stay in beautiful hotels that are less expensive and easier to get to from the western world (the drive to Kumarakom from Kovalam was long and uncomfortable). I wouldn’t go out of my way to come to Kumarakom unless I already needed to be in Kerala for some other reason. If you are here, then yes, it is a lovely property to visit.
Note: We stayed in a villa, not a houseboat, because reviews of the resort’s houseboat stays did not sound great.
On the drive up from Kovalam, our driver recommended we stop at Jatayu Earth Centre, which has a cable car up to a massive sculpture of a famous bird from The Ramayana. I’m not big on tourist attractions or cable cars in third world countries, but it was actually pretty cool. If you’re staying at Kumarakom Lake Resort, I’d scurry along to make the most of your time there, but if you don’t have anywhere to be, this could be a nice stop.
Walking around the Jatayu monument. The dedication to “women’s safety and honour” is a specific reference to The Ramayana storyline.
We spent 1 night at Spice Village, an “eco-resort” in Thekaddy. Like Kumarakom Lake Resort, it was also egregiously expensive and had delicious food. The room was a standalone thatched hut that was pretty nice inside, if not Kumarakom-style luxurious, and the activities were interesting -- a traditional dance performance, cooking demonstration, and nighttime walk with the onsite naturalist, whose fascination with plants, insects, and animals was truly contagious. Unlike Kumarakom Lake Resort, the service was not particularly attentive or helpful and we felt less insulated from the discomforts of traveling in India (i.e., sewage smells in certain parts of the property, thumping music from a neighboring resort late into the night, the room safe didn’t work, etc.). We wouldn’t travel all the way to Thekkady just to stay at this resort.
We saw quite a few spiderwebs on our nature walk at Spice Village.
Our driver advised us to stop at Deepa World, a spice plantation, where a tour guide who spoke decent English took us on a 20-minute walk and showed us different spice plants. It was only INR 100 (like $1.20) per person and it was actually a really neat experience, especially as we then kept spotting a lot of these spices growing in the wild around Kerala.
Our tour guides in Kerala were consistently excited to point out cardamom pods growing in the wild.
Although we unfortunately didn’t get a chance to visit Periyar National Park, my sense from reading online reviews is that we didn’t necessarily miss too much.
The tea plantations were so beautiful and lovely to walk through, but the experience of staying in Munnar was really not great. We stayed for 3 nights at Fragrant Nature Munnar, a supposed 5-star hotel that surprised us with its dilapidated condition, lackluster service, and yucky food (I honestly didn’t even know that Indian food in India could taste bad until we stayed here...). Finding lodging in Munnar was a frustrating process because it was difficult to understand which hotels are actually good (this one had just as good Google ratings as hotels that we later learned are actually decent) and when we did get leads on “good” hotels, they tended to be unresponsive, unhelpful, and/or scammy during the booking process. I even asked for leads on Reddit, and the responses indicated that a lot of Kerala hotels’ online reviews are fabricated by the hotel owners and therefore aren’t trustworthy. Everything was extremely expensive around Christmastime -- as context, our Munnar lodging was significantly more expensive and probably less nice than a Motel 6 in the rural U.S. While we weren’t specifically looking for luxury stays -- especially after breaking the bank in Kumarakom and Thekkady -- we just wanted a place that was clean with safe and decent-tasting food (very important because in Munnar you’re totally dependent on your hotel for your meals). The difficulty of finding this was a huge turn-off and is frankly a huge reason I would not recommend visiting here.
A waterfall we saw in Munnar
While Kumarakom and Thekaddy were basically about the resort experience, Munnar is all about the gorgeous natural beauty that is available for all to enjoy, regardless of your wealth/ability to stay in a luxury resort. And what is specifically unique about the views here are the stunning tea plantations!
Our favorite activity of our entire Kerala trip was a half-day hike booked through Viator (Mountain Hiking through Munnar Tea Plantation, operated by the Munnar Tourist Information Office). Not only do we generally love hiking, but we had a chance to walk through gorgeous tea plantations unlike any landscape either of us has experienced. There were vibes of Hobbiton, Vietnamese rice paddies, and the lush Scottish countryside. If after reading this post you for some reason still decide to travel to Munnar, we highly recommend doing such a hike!
On the tea plantation hike
The other activity we tried in Munnar was a “Jeep Safari” that our driver told us we’d really like (hard not to believe he wasn’t getting a kickback from the tour operator). We got driven around to some waterfalls, a scenic viewpoint, and a dam, none of which were really that great. It was also very overpriced for India (US $50 for a 3 hour tour, at least half of which was spent just being driven around). We do not recommend it.
Jeep Safari scenic viewpoint
In terms of other activities, we read about recommendations to visit Eravikulam National Park and the scenic viewpoints at Top Station, Madupetty Dam, and Echo Point. These are all extremely popular destinations among Indian tourists and given the crowds, long commute times, and middling reviews we read online, we decided to skip them.
As I referenced in the Munnar section, planning the logistics of our entire trip to Kerala was a real pain -- far more difficult than anywhere else we have traveled. There was very limited information available online and the Indian travel agents we got connected to during the planning process were unprofessional and unresponsive, so we ended up choosing our hotels based on recommendations from family friends and online research (which obviously didn’t work out well for Munnar). We learned that booking directly through the hotel’s website is the most expensive option (though probably the least painful, as you don’t have to deal with time zone differences, language barriers, and the general annoyances of dealing with Indian customer service staff). However, there tends to be a substantial discount if you contact the hotel directly. And apparently you’ll get an even lower rate if you go through a travel agent. Which brings me back to finding it awful to try to work with Indian travel agents...
