I would have to say that this leg of the trip has easily been the most interesting but it started humbly: April figured out how to basically use the camera. To honor that, we have a photo she took of me while we devoured some appetizers from Marché, a wonderful restaurant on the eastern side of Nashville.
After spending the rest of the day trying not to drop lots of money on a guitar (so I could say I got it from Nashville) whilst eating BBQ nachos, we made our way to my friend Lincoln Parish’s place for a dinner party. It would be the first time we met in person, despite his having played guitar on a record I produced for a dear friend of mine Chiara Angelicola a few years back. After eating a wonderful spicy pasta meal he and his lovely lady Cassidy prepared, he shared music he’s been producing for a few of the artists who attended dinner as well as others. I can’t begin to tell you how amazing it was, and so I’ll say this: If any of you need an incredible producer, look no further than Mr. Parish.
The following morning we made our way to Memphis. For a variety of reasons, many of the people we know (and found along the way) have given disquiet or tepid reviews of the Blues City. When we got there, it kind of became clear why that is although we found the city incredibly interesting and wish we would have stayed longer. Memphis, in many respects makes up the beginning of the Mississippi delta, and has a notorious past which, among the many stories that could be recounted from this place, it’s home to the hotel where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. The city today still has the feeling of being racially and economically un-integrated but there are pockets of development spattered across town that are giving hope for a new era. And then of course there’s the music and food (I included a shot of what was certainly the best ribs I’ve ever had courtesy of Central BBQ) which has been a source of resounding pride for the city, and I think people are finding ways to make this a springboard for positive change as well. Not to get too ahead of myself here as a humble kid from Jersey (because I admit the nuances of this area of the country I may never grasp), but I do wish people visited the town more.
After spending time on BB King’s Beale Street, Elvis’ Graceland and the historic Peabody Hotel we made our way to Clarksdale, Mississippi. By the time we arrived the sun had already set, but that didn’t stop us from hearing music at the Hopson Commissary and the Bluesberry Cafe. “Watermelon Slim” and the Blues All Stars were performing at the latter, and it was no small honor to be in their presence. The town seems to be pouring with music history, Sam Cooke of all people was born here, but it too suffers from desertion and makes Memphis look bustling. If you have any appreciation for the blues or rock and roll or history for that matter, these places are well worth the visit. So much of American culture starts here and we have a lot to be thankful for, as well as a lot to meditate on.
And with that, we rest up at the Shack Up Inn in preparation for our journey to Oxford, Mississippi in the morning.