Tower Ridge Route Description 600m from Douglas Gap, Estimated time for good conditions 4-5 hours Gear: 1 x half rope/slim single, 1-11 wires, stubby screw, 3 x hexes, 4 smallish cams, 10 quickdraws (lots of extenders), 5 chest slings • Easy snow on the left-hand side (west) of the Douglas Boulder leads to the Douglas Gap and the start of the ridge proper. From here a short pitch of III follows a chimney for 10m (tricky with poor snow). • From the top of the chimney, approximately 150m of easy snow leads to steeper ground, taken direct in good conditions or outflanked on the far right by an easy- angled groove in bad snow. • More easy ground then leads to the Little Tower (the ground is not particularly steep, do not confuse with the truly vertical Great Tower above) which is climbed via a series of zig-zagging grooves slightly left of center. • Follow another easy section directly up to the foot of the Great Tower, a distinct 30m vertical wall. There is a traverse line approx. 30m below the Great Tower which should NOT be confused with the Eastern Traverse. Unless you want extra style points. The Eastern Traverse bypasses the Great Tower on the left for approx. 20m (can be steeply banked out) and ends at the Fallen Block Chimney. This fallen block chimney can be buried, but when clear provides an archway to crawl through. • After the chimney, climb short tricky steps above and slightly right to gain the top of the Great Tower and a relatively flat section of the ridge. • Here lies the infamous Tower Gap. Best approached by grabbing a handful of the in-situ slings and bum sliding/gracefully falling in control into the gap. Loop the rope around the boulder for the second so they are protected from above and flick/untie the rope when they are down. • To climb out of the gap either take the steep, wide crack direct or climb a short slab to the left with good hooks and an in-situ peg in the corner. • 50m of easy ground leads to the final steeping of the ridge which is passed by a groove on the right.