Search for Meaning: Krakow day 2
As someone who studies psychology I am often required to theorize about the causes of human behavior and how we react to and deal with challenges in our lives. About a month ago the director of our school recommend we read Man's Search For Meaning by Austrian psychologist Victor Frankl who survived Auschwitz and went on to write about the psychological phases of concentration camp imprisonment and his own theory that man is driven not by primal urges but the search for a meaningful existence. It was an amazing book and a fantastic intro to what we saw today.
Today we started off with a tour of the castle hill here in Krakow, which was nice but I think I'm getting a little castled-out. Our tour guide was very nice though and gave us a lot of good information about the history of Krakow. After the tour we got some surprisingly good pizza for lunch and then got on the bus towards Auschwitz.
I didn't cry today. I thought I would, and I came close, but the experience of Auschwitz can't really be described as simply as "sad". It's a combination of sadness, horror, disgust, and vague feeling of unsettled incomprehension of the massive scale of the atrocities that were committed here. I don't want to sound like I'm trying to be poetic about this, because romanticism has no place here. It's just hard to convey such a complicated mix of emotions.
We met our guide at the entrance to the complex. The parking lot has a restaurant attached to it, which seems kind of distasteful if you think about it. But we followed our guide under the Arbeit Macht Frei sign and into Auschwitz I. This wasn't the extermination camp yet but the barracks where prisoners worked and we're forced to live, and that now make up the museum. The day was fittingly grey and gloomy, I think it would have been extremely unsettling to see it on a nice day. We walked through the museum full of pictures of prisoners arriving at the camp, pictures of prisoners in their uniforms, pictures of nearly starved children. The most hard-hitting exhibits were the rooms filled with the possessions that the prisoners brought with them to the camp. Thousands of suitcases, eyeglasses, shoes, bowls, hairbrushes. And an entire room just with hair. The closest I came to crying was in the room filled with children's shoes. We also got to see some of the rooms used for punishment where people were often forced to stand in the dark often four to a room built for one. Another unsettling moment was seeing the death wall where over 7,000 people were executed. The last thing we did before leaving the first camp was to walk through the only remaining gas chamber and crematorium. I don't think there are any words. I didn't linger for long.
Auschwitz-Birkenau is the camp that people probably most often think of, which the large front entrance and railroad tracks. This was the extermination camp, and has been kept as close as possible to what it looked like the day it was liberated. Again, the sheer size is the most unsettling part, that these barracks were filled and filled again. We passed one of the train cars used for deportation, again I didn't linger long. It was beginning to be dusk and we had to hurry before the complex closed for the night, but we saw the inside of the barracks and then walked to the back of the complex to see the remains of the blown up gas chambers and crematorium. All that's left is charred rubble so it's hard to believe that these used to be buildings in which so many were murdered. The last thing we saw was the memorial, with plaques written in all the languages of the prisoners. In the fading light the place felt even more solemn.
People always ask how humans could have done this to each other, and there are plenty of explanations. But there's no justification for what happened to the 6 million people who died in the Holocaust. I'm not going to pretend like I'm having an original thought when I say that the only thing we can do now is honor the dead and prevent such tragedy from happening again. I didn't cry today, but I did learn about what happened in Auschwitz and about the human reaction to tragedy, which, as our guide told us, was the ultimate wish of those who survived that place. That was how they found meaning from the horror.














