Planning for Final Photographic Project
To cover a large part of the photography unit criteria, I aim to undertake a kind of social documentary/street photography project that will explore drug addiction and abuse in Laindon, Basildon, and Pitsea. I’ll be shooting as if the shots were for an indie magazine or something of the sort, imagining I was on assignment for an article about drug culture and taking photos to accompany an article. Because of this, it’ll be mostly portrait images and few landscapes unless the landscape holds some cultural significance to the subject at hand such as pick up spots, known shooting galleries, dens, and traps.
I’ll be using black and white film and shooting exclusively in harsh, fluorescent light or dark/night time situations. Contrast is key for me and I want the shots to look violent, harsh, gritty. Achieving this shouldn’t be too hard, and if I have to, I can edit the best shots in post production (I might play with contrast, noise, and sharpening if necessary).
Because it’s winter and I insist on shooting film for this project, I’m going to have to really play with things like lighting, aperture, ASA, and shutter speed. I want the shots to be as natural as possible, the less gadgets and gear I use, the better.
I’ll be using a 400 ASA Kodak Tri-X B&W film due to how dark it is all the time and how short the days are - 400 ASA is a versatile film speed that will allow me to get some fairly good shots at night time without much noise/film grain in the photo. This is opposed to using a lower film speed, that isn’t as sensitive to light. I have considered pushing the ASA to 800, but don’t fully understand how pushing film works, so I’ve decided to work with what I’ve got.
The camera I’m using (Olympus OM-10 fitted with a manual adapter for shutter speed control) has a built-in light meter. It works by displaying different shutter speeds in the viewfinder, displaying a red light next to the ideal shutter speed for your shot. Because of this built-in sensor, I’ll be able to determine which shutter speed is ideal for the shot, but I still have the freedom to choose a different shutter speed and fix any mistakes in post production if necessary.
Because I expect most of my shots to be at night time or in harsh light, I should really be opting for a low shutter speed so let as much light into the lens as possible - the problem with this is that I’m going to be photographing people. People move, and this’ll cause a lot of blur, and I shake a lot anyway so it isn’t ideal. I’ll be using a shutter speed of about 1/125 for the most part. Obviously I can and will adapt the shutter speed to the situation at hand.
My choice of aperture is probably going to be quite limited, again, because of lighting. Unless I can find a source of natural light nearby to shoot by (as I’ll be doing this on the streets), I’ll be sticking to apertures below f/3.5, as lower apertures let in a lot more light than a high aperture would.
I don’t want to use any equipment for this project, as carrying around anything more than a camera is going to limit my ability to get good shots. Tripods are too big, flashes will ruin the effect that I’m going for, and using light boxes/reflectors are out of the question because I’m not in a studio and there’s not going to be any light to reflect anyway.
I’ll be using contact sheets to show how I’ve chosen what shots to use, as I’m not going to get 36 effective exposures out of a roll. I’ll scan the annotated contact sheets when they’re finished.
Having touched on aperture, light metering, shutter speed, and ASA in this post, I’ll be annotating the next post for this unit to further explain my understanding of these components and going into composition, angles, viewpoints, and perspective.