The first acquaintance with Saratov started from excursion with Igor, he is local informal ethnographer. Starting point was near the museum of local lore, next stop was street with a lot old half ruined wooden houses, we were still in the city centre. Passing by the streets picture haven’t changed, all street has only one-story buildings wood, brick, stone houses, all they look abandoned, ruined, you can't imagine that somebody can live here, some streets even hasn’t got a proper road, there is only mud there.
We had made a turn after some garages , it’s looked like empty space on some periphery, were only one thing you can find is garages and abandoned cars, felt like it's not unsafely to be there, going down without a road, everything was dirty, everywere mud, after all found ourselves in the concrete road surrounding marsh. On the other side you can find houses, quite populated. Igor told that actually this is a river Taybalik and it's was putted inside the collector, and we are standing on it, later we found the hole and saw the river inside.
Moved on, its appeared that this concrete collector is a path, kind of road for locals. Its surrounds by the same type of houses that we saw in the central area streets, they all looks the same ruined with some supplemented small architectural forms, but actually they are not abandoned at all, all this houses are full of life, they all inhabited.
Walking on the streets of Saratov, peek a sneak into alleyways and courtyards, everywhere in the city center you can find this favelas. Many of them have as a background picture of modern just built sixteen-story buildings. So you can see this incredible contrast of new buildings and one-story pre-revolutionary houses. All these courtyards and houses equipped well, vast majority has some kinds of improvements, patches, add-ons, extensions, some have flowerbeds, some historic houses has increased volume of balcony, others has attached extra rooms, that are just built from all rubbish things that they could find in surrounding area .
Generally we can specify all the main Saratov favelas characteristics:
1_Most of the time all Saratov favelas you can find near newly built modern 15-20 story buildings, apartments.
2_Its always goes with the courtyard, from the main street you have a nice but quite ruined building of the end of 19 or beginning of 20 century, you go inside and see a courtyard. All rest buildings and shelters are faced to this courtyard. In the centre it can be placed a flower bed, or some small shared public space for children.
3_ All buildings have some adjusted, completed, modified structures, the intervention, expansion of the new territory. It can be a adjusted room, it can be enlarged entrance, porch and attached loggia or a balcony.
4_ From the first view you all these buildings looks abandoned, but in a closer look you will be able to notice the details, signs of life and comfort such as flowers in window, nice curtains, in some courtyards you will find the clothes hanging on the rope outside.
Generally speaking Saratov has these two controversial vectors, in the one hand it’s seems to be perceived as die out, shrinking city, cause still there are a lot abandoned, burned, ruined houses in it, but in other certainly a lot of houses and districts that seems to be at first sight abandoned and inhabitant are full of life and their own aesthetics.