#walstadmethod

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Here’s a quick 5-month update on my self-cleaning planted aquarium! 🌿🐟 This tank has become one of the lowest-maintenance setups I’ve ever run. The plants, shrimp, snails, and natural microorganisms all work together to handle the majority of the maintenance tasks for me. That’s the beauty of a well-balanced, semi-Walstad-style system—nature really does the heavy lifting when you set things up right.

My Celestial Pearl Danios are thriving, and they’re definitely breeding because I keep spotting juveniles that I never added! It’s always exciting seeing a tank become self-sustaining like this. I’ve been debating adding more fish soon, but I still can’t settle on a species. Maybe another schooling fish, or something unique that fits the vibe of this setup.

The Helanthium tenellum carpet is growing a lot slower than I expected, mostly because my floating plants have been blocking out a ton of light. I’ll be removing most of the floaters soon so the carpet can finally fill in. My Ludwigia has been dropping some lower leaves, but that’s normal for this plant, especially in lower-light spots. I’ll be trimming and replanting the healthy tops this month to keep it looking full and vibrant.

I also added several houseplants—Peace Lily, Fittonia, Monstera, Arrowhead, and Polka Dot Plant—to grow aquaponically along the rim. Their roots hang into the water and help absorb nutrients, giving the tank an extra natural filtration boost. The shrimp colony is thriving too, though I need to track down some male orange neocaridina because I’m pretty sure my entire colony is female and I’d love to get them breeding.

The hair algae bloom is finally under control after lowering the light and letting the floaters soak up excess nutrients. Water parameters are perfect as well: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and very low nitrate. This tank is truly settling into a stable, self-sustaining ecosystem. 🌱✨

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This is my 25-litre (6.6 US gallon) Walstad method tank, designed to be as beginner-friendly as possible—and it’s now 291 days old.

My Medaka rice fish are already in full breeding mode. I’ve had two batches of eggs so far, but unfortunately, the shrimp in the tank have either eaten or damaged them.

To make hatching easier, I’ve placed the water lettuce inside a 3D floating plant ring in the front-left corner. This keeps it within view from my work desk, so I can quickly spot any fresh eggs laid on the roots and remove them before the shrimp get to them.

The shrimp themselves are breeding heavily right now, with several females currently carrying eggs. I’ve got a long-form video planned where I’ll go over the results of this skittles shrimp colony test in this tank. Once that’s published, I’ll be moving a large portion of the shrimp into my much larger 70-litre (18 US gallon) tank.

As for the plants, the Pogostemon quadrifolius has started to fill in nicely after replacing the Limnophila sessiliflora, and its higher nutrient demand should help keep algae under control. The regular Rotala Blood Red and Blood Red SG are both doing well, although I recently trimmed the SG to transfer some into another tank.

Finally, the Helanthium tenellum ‘Green’ carpet seems to be growing much better now that it’s no longer competing with the Limnophila sessiliflora for nutrients.

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A Quick Update On My Walstad Method Medaka Aquarium - Easy Capped Dirt Planted Tank!

This is my 25-litre (6.6 gallon) Walstad Method tank, built to be as simple and beginner-friendly as possible—and it’s now 291 days old 🌱

Things are getting really exciting in here right now. My Medaka rice fish have gone into full breeding mode, and I’ve already had two batches of eggs! Unfortunately, the shrimp in the tank have been getting to them first—either eating or damaging the eggs before they can hatch.

To solve that, I’ve made a small change. I’ve placed my water lettuce inside a 3D floating plant ring in the front-left corner of the tank. This keeps everything contained and makes it way easier to monitor from my desk, so I can quickly spot any new eggs on the roots and remove them before the shrimp find them.

Speaking of shrimp, they’re also thriving. The colony is booming, with multiple females currently carrying eggs. This tank has turned into a really interesting test for a “skittles” shrimp colony, and I’ve got a full long-form video planned where I’ll break down the results and what I’ve learned so far. After that, I’ll be moving a large portion of them into my bigger 70-litre (18 gallon) tank.

Plant growth has been great too. The Pogostemon quadrifolius is filling in nicely after I replaced the Limnophila sessiliflora, and it should help keep algae under control thanks to its nutrient uptake. My Rotala Blood Red and Blood Red SG are both doing well, although I recently trimmed the SG to use in another setup.

And finally, the Helanthium tenellum ‘Green’ carpet is starting to take off now that it’s no longer competing for nutrients—definitely a big improvement.

This tank just keeps evolving, and it’s been amazing to watch how everything balances out naturally over time.

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Here’s a quick update on my 25-litre (6.6 US gallon) filterless guppy and cherry shrimp tank, which is now 686 days old.

This aquarium follows the Walstad Method, using topsoil capped with fine gravel as the substrate. The plants handle most of the filtration, naturally purifying the water and helping keep conditions stable and safe for the livestock.

The tank is lit by the entry-level Seaoura SR616, an affordable aquarium light. Recently, I doubled the photoperiod, increasing it from six hours per day at maximum intensity to twelve hours per day.

As you can see, the plants are already responding to the additional light. The Rotala rotundifolia is beginning to develop pink, orange, and red hues, while the Bacopa caroliniana is also starting to show some reddish coloration under the longer photoperiod.

For the most part, the guppies are doing well. However, one of them has lost a section of its tail at both the top and bottom, and the missing areas are almost exactly the same length.

Because of how suddenly it appeared, I suspect the damage may have been caused by the fish resting its tail against the heater during a heating cycle, rather than it being tail rot.

The cherry shrimp colony is also doing well and seems to be benefiting from the longer photoperiod, as it allows more algae and biofilm to grow in the tank, providing them with a natural food source.

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🌱 After trying countless #aquariumplants in my Walstad tanks, I've found that some are better at natural water purification than others. Here are my top 5 picks for Walstad tanks that keep water parameters stable and safe for fish! 🧵👇

Limnophila Sessiliflora 🌿 This is my favorite submerged plant for #Walstadmethod tanks! It grows fast, uses up plenty of ammonium and nitrate, and provides surface area for beneficial bacteria. Plus, it’s easy to propagate by replanting trimmed stems! 🪴 One drawback of Limnophila? It can grow so fast that it starves itself of nitrate, leading to browning. Feeding fish a bit more should help fix this as fish waste feeds #aquaticplants.

Salvinia Auriculata ☘️ Floating plants like Salvinia are great for a Walstad #aquarium since they get CO2 from the air. My tanks have seen noticeable nitrate drops after adding it. Plus, its leaves change size based on nutrient levels, giving a visual cue for tank health! A pro-tip with Salvinia: keep it in a floating ring to control light levels for your submerged plants. And be ready for regular maintenance—I remove handfuls from my #fishtank every week! 🌊

Rotala Rotundifolia, I keep this in 6 tanks and it's great for a #natureaquarium! It’s a slightly slower-growing stem plant, which means less trimming, about every 3-4 weeks. For those seeking low-maintenance plants, this is a perfect choice that helps stabilize tank parameters. Rotala is also easy to find and cheap. Unlike Limnophila, it doesn't get leggy in low light making it perfect for a #lowtechtank. For me, Rotala and Salvinia are the dream team in Walstad tanks. 💪

Pearlweed💧 New to my tanks, but I’m loving it so far! Despite being labeled as "advanced," it's doing well in both medium and low-light tanks. A liquid fertilizer may be needed in low-bio tanks like a #shrimptank. Fun fact: “pearlweed” can refer to several species, causing confusion. I’m using Micranthemum Glomeratum and, though growth is slower at first, it speeds up after 2-3 months! 🕒 It uses up a lot of nitrogen compounds making it perfect for #dirtedtanks

Hygrophila Polysperma and the Rosanervig variant🌿 They are solid choices for any #plantedtank especially Walstad tanks. They grows in random directions, making them less ideal for aquascapers. But it’s great for tank health if you don’t mind the wild look. Hygrophila Polysperma Rosanervig has a virus that limits chlorophyll production causing beautiful pink leaves on fresh growth making it a great plant for an #aquascape too. While all these plants work well, Rotala Rotundifolia and Salvinia Auriculata are my ultimate duo for keeping Walstad tanks thriving. 🌿 What plants have you tried in your own Walstad tanks? Let me know your favorites and check out my video on the topic.

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I trimmed the pearlweed in my Walstad method pearlweed jungle tank to make space for some Medaka rice fish, and it's nice to see my Bloody Mary Neocaridina shrimp in all their glory!

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🌿🐠 **200-Day Update: My 6.6-Gallon (25L) Walstad Cherry Shrimp Tank!** 🦐✨

Welcome to my 200-day update on this thriving 6.6-gallon (25-liter) Walstad method cherry shrimp tank! 🎉

The Walstad method is all about working *with* nature to create a sustainable, self-sufficient aquarium ecosystem. This tank uses topsoil capped with gravel as the substrate, which is rich in micronutrients that help plants flourish. 🌱 The plants not only provide beauty but also act as the tank’s filtration system. 🌿

The soil supports beneficial bacteria that naturally boost CO2 levels, creating the perfect environment for plants to grow and thrive. One of the stars of this tank is **Rotala rotundifolia**—a hardworking plant that absorbs toxic nitrogen compounds like ammonia and nitrates while also providing endless grazing opportunities for the shrimp. 🦐

Speaking of shrimp, they’re absolutely thriving in here! 😍 I estimate there were around 100 cherry shrimp at one point, thanks to their constant breeding. They’re busy all day grazing on biofilm, algae, and any leftovers, contributing to the tank’s perfect nutrient cycle. Shrimp waste feeds the plants, which in turn help keep the water pristine for the shrimp and fish. It’s a beautiful balance! 🌊✨

Over the past week, I rehomed 15 shrimp to my other tanks and gifted 35 to friends who wanted to start their own shrimp setups. Sharing the love for these little critters! 🥰

As for the tank’s fish, I recently moved the two Medaka rice fish that lived here to my main Medaka setup. In their place, I introduced some guppies about a week ago, and they’re settling in wonderfully! So far, the guppies are doing great, and the balance of the tank remains stable. 🐟

This tank is a perfect example of how the Walstad method creates a low-maintenance yet thriving environment for both plants and livestock. It’s so rewarding to see nature’s balance play out in a small, controlled ecosystem. 💚

Let me know if you’re thinking of starting a Walstad tank or if you already have one! Would you try it with cherry shrimp, guppies, or even Medaka? Drop your thoughts below! 👇✨

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Why Different Sources Recommend Different Soil Depths In Walstad Method Planted Tanks!

A lot of beginners make the mistake of using too much soil in the nutrient layer when setting up a Walstad Method aquarium, so let’s clear this up 👇 My full article on the best soil for Walstad method tanks - https://glassboxdiaries.com/walstad-method-soil/

If you’re new to the Walstad Method, it can be confusing because advice varies a lot. Some people recommend around 2.5 cm (1 inch) of soil, while others—myself included—suggest closer to 1.25 cm (about half an inch).

What many people don’t realise is that “soil” isn’t the same everywhere. Regulations on what can be sold as soil vary massively depending on where you live.

Here in Europe, soil products like topsoil are tightly regulated, so nutrient levels are fairly consistent between brands. That’s why I use around 1.25 cm of Westland Top Soil and get reliable results.

But in places like the USA and Canada, soil is far less regulated. You’ll often find mixes with sand, wood chips, pebbles, or even leaves. That means two products labelled “topsoil” can have completely different nutrient levels.

Because of that, many hobbyists in those regions use thicker layers (around 2.5 cm) to compensate for lower nutrient content. Some even mix different soils together to get the right balance.

On the flip side, I know people running dirted tanks in places like India who use extremely thin layers—sometimes just 2 mm—because their soil is so nutrient-rich that anything more causes algae issues.

And then there’s garden soil… which can vary massively and may contain contaminants. Personally, living in an industrial area, I wouldn’t risk using it.

This is also why more aquarists are turning to products like Fluval Stratum for ecosystem tanks—it’s far more consistent no matter where you are.

So the takeaway? Don’t just copy measurements—understand your soil.