Glass Box Diaries

Welcome to my aquarium journey! Dive into the world of planted tanks, betta fish, guppies, shrimp, and other community and nano fish as I share my experiences and tips for a thriving aquarium hobby.

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What To Do If You Stocked Your Aquarium Before Cycling It!

Accidentally added fish before your aquarium was fully cycled? Don’t panic. While it’s not the ideal situation, there are several steps you can take to help keep your fish safe while the tank matures.

The first priority is testing your water. A reliable test kit allows you to monitor ammonia and nitrite, which are the two most important toxins to watch during the cycling process. Testing regularly helps you spot problems early and track how the biological filtration is developing over time.

The next step is reducing the amount of waste entering the aquarium. Feeding less food means your fish produce less waste, which in turn reduces the amount of ammonia being added to the water. You should still make sure your fish are getting enough to eat, but avoiding overfeeding can make a huge difference during the first few weeks.

Adding live plants can also help. Fast-growing aquarium plants absorb nitrogen compounds from the water and can act as an extra safety net while beneficial microorganisms establish themselves. Floating plants are particularly useful because they have direct access to atmospheric CO₂ and often grow much faster than submerged species. Salvinia is one of my favourite options because it's easy to keep, grows quickly, and can help improve water quality in many aquariums. Other fast-growing stem plants can also be very effective.

If your test kit detects any ammonia or nitrite, carry out partial water changes as needed. Many beginners worry that water changes will slow down the cycling process, but protecting your fish should always be the priority. Keeping ammonia and nitrite as close to zero as possible helps reduce stress and lowers the risk of long-term health problems.

It's also important to remember that cycling isn't just about beneficial bacteria. Plants, microorganisms, and other biological processes all contribute to processing waste and improving water quality. As these populations grow, the aquarium becomes more stable and resilient.

In most cases, a new aquarium takes around four weeks to fully mature, although this can vary depending on temperature, stocking levels, filtration, plant mass, and other factors. By monitoring your water, feeding carefully, using plenty of plants, and performing water changes when necessary, you can greatly improve the chances of your fish staying healthy while the aquarium completes its cycle.

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A Quick And Easy Way To Manage TDS Build Up In Your Aquarium And Keep Things Safe And Algae Free!

Looking for a simple way to help keep total dissolved solids (TDS) under control in your aquarium? One of the easiest places to start is by taking a closer look at how much food you're adding to the tank.

TDS is a measurement of all the dissolved substances in the water, and while some level of TDS is completely normal, it can gradually rise over time as food, fish waste, plant debris, minerals, and other organic matter break down. In many aquariums, fish food is one of the biggest contributors to increasing TDS levels, especially if more food is being added than the aquarium can process.

While regular water changes, healthy plant growth, and proper maintenance can all help reduce TDS, preventing unnecessary buildup in the first place is often much easier. That's why I've become a big fan of using inexpensive chef's measuring spoons when feeding my aquariums. By measuring food rather than estimating it, I can keep my feeding amounts consistent from day to day and avoid accidentally adding too much.

It might seem a little over the top at first, but it's actually a very simple habit that can make a noticeable difference over time. Less excess food means less waste breaking down in the aquarium, which can help reduce nutrient accumulation and may even make it harder for certain types of algae to gain a foothold.

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is assuming there is a universal feeding rule that works for every aquarium. The reality is that every setup is different. Stocking levels, filtration, plant mass, feeding habits, and even the species you keep can all influence how much food your aquarium can handle.

You'll often hear advice suggesting that any food not eaten within a few minutes should be removed. While that can sometimes be useful, many aquarium inhabitants don't eat that quickly. Shrimp, snails, bottom dwellers, and even some fish species may continue grazing on food long after the initial feeding period.

Instead of following a strict timer, I prefer to gradually experiment with feeding amounts and observe how the aquarium responds. If TDS continues to rise quickly, algae becomes more problematic, or excess waste starts accumulating, it's often a sign that too much food is being added. Small adjustments over time can help you find the sweet spot for your specific tank.

A little precision can go a long way when it comes to maintaining a healthier, more stable aquarium. By paying closer attention to feeding, you can often make it easier to control TDS, reduce waste buildup, and create a cleaner environment for your fish, shrimp, snails, and plants.

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A Quick And Easy Way To Reduce Algae In Your Aquarium!

Algae is one of the most common problems aquarium keepers face, but one of the easiest ways to reduce it naturally is by adding more fast-growing plants to your tank.

Fast-growing stem plants are excellent competitors for nutrients in the water column. By absorbing nutrients that algae would otherwise use to grow, they can help shift the balance of the aquarium in favour of plants rather than algae. This makes them one of the most effective long-term tools for controlling algae outbreaks without relying on chemical treatments.

Some of my favourite options include pearlweed, Lindernia rotundifolia, Limnophila sessiliflora, Ceratopteris thalictroides, and Pogostemon quadrifolius. These species are capable of growing very quickly under the right conditions and can make a noticeable difference when used in sufficient quantities. If your aquarium has hard water and a higher pH, species from the Hygrophila genus, such as Hygrophila polysperma, are often excellent alternatives and tend to perform very well in those conditions.

While moderate-growth plants can still provide some benefit, the fastest-growing species generally offer the greatest algae-fighting potential because they consume nutrients at a much higher rate. For best results, don't be afraid to heavily plant the aquarium. A larger plant mass will usually have a greater impact than just adding a few stems.

It's important to remember that algae control takes time. Even when you make positive changes, the algae won't disappear overnight. Softer algae types, such as green algae and brown diatom algae, often respond the fastest and may begin to decline within a few weeks. More stubborn forms of algae, such as black beard algae and staghorn algae, can take much longer to weaken and may require several months of consistent management before significant improvements are seen.

Adding algae-eating animals can also help speed up the process. Shrimp, snails, and other algae grazers often become far more effective once the algae starts to weaken. Rather than being the primary solution, they can work alongside fast-growing plants to help clean up algae as it breaks down.

If you're struggling with algae, try adding more fast-growing plants before reaching for chemical treatments. In many cases, creating stronger competition for nutrients can be enough to gradually bring the problem under control and help your aquarium become more stable over time.

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Why Honey Gourami And White Cloud Mountain Minnows Work Well As Tank Mates In The Right Planted Tank!

Can you keep honey gourami with white cloud mountain minnows? In my experience, yes. I've had a few questions about this combination because white clouds are often considered a cool-water species, while honey gourami are usually thought of as tropical fish. However, honey gourami are more adaptable than many people realise.

Honey gourami originate from the Brahmaputra River system, where temperatures can fluctuate throughout the year. Because of this, there is a useful overlap between the temperature ranges of both species. I keep this aquarium at 23°C (73°F), which has worked well for my honey gourami and white cloud mountain minnows.

Temperament is another reason this combination has been successful. Both species are peaceful community fish that tend to ignore each other and go about their daily routines. I haven't seen any signs of aggression, territorial disputes, or bullying between them. Instead, they spend most of their time exploring different areas of the aquarium and coexisting without issues.

If you're considering this combination, I would strongly recommend including plenty of plants and cover. Dense vegetation helps honey gourami feel more secure and encourages natural behaviour. In this tank, the honey gourami spend a surprising amount of time swimming through the Blyxa japonica and using the plant growth as shelter.

Feeding is also simple because both species readily accept the same foods. Whether it's flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods, or live foods, they generally feed without any problems. My Amano shrimp help clean up any leftovers, which reduces waste and helps keep the aquarium tidy.

That said, these honey gourami won't be staying in this aquarium permanently. The tank originally served as a quarantine setup, but I'm currently struggling to find an Apistogramma for another aquarium. Because of that, I'll probably move the honey gourami into that tank instead, where they'll have more swimming space, additional plant cover, and the opportunity to become the main centrepiece fish.

While every aquarium is different, this combination has worked very well for me so far and may be worth considering if you're looking for a peaceful planted community tank.

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A Quick Update On My Spider Plant Growing With Its Roots In My Aquarium!

Spider plants are quickly becoming one of my favourite houseplants to grow directly from aquariums, and here's a quick update on one of the specimens I have mounted to the rear glass of one of my tanks.

This particular spider plant has its roots growing directly into the aquarium water, allowing it to access a constant supply of nutrients produced by the fish, shrimp, snails, microorganisms, and natural processes happening within the aquarium ecosystem. A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned that it had started producing plantlets, which was already a great sign that the plant was thriving.

Since then, it's taken another step forward and is now covered in lots of tiny white flowers. I really like the look of flowering spider plants, so I'm hoping some of the other spider plants growing on my aquariums start doing the same over the coming weeks and months.

One thing I've found interesting about growing spider plants this way is just how well they adapt to life with their roots submerged. As long as the crown of the plant remains above the waterline, they seem perfectly happy with their roots hanging down into the aquarium. The constant access to water and nutrients can support surprisingly vigorous growth.

Beyond simply looking good, spider plants can also provide practical benefits for aquariums. Their roots absorb nitrogen compounds and other nutrients from the water, helping to reduce the build-up of potential pollutants while contributing to long-term water quality and stability. While they shouldn't be viewed as a replacement for good aquarium husbandry, they can become a useful part of a balanced planted aquarium system.

For lighting, this plant has its own dedicated grow light, although it's nothing particularly powerful. I'm currently using an older 5-watt Sansi puck light running for around 12 hours per day, and as you can see, it's still producing excellent results.

That said, moving forward I'll probably switch over to the newer 9-watt Barrina puck lights. They're roughly the same price, offer dimming functionality, and provide a little extra power when needed. That additional output could be particularly useful for some of the more demanding houseplants that can be grown with their roots in aquarium water.

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A Quick Update On My Planted Nano Community Tank!

My video on how I set this tank up - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab4QKwxiVKU Today marks 300 days since setting up my 45-litre (12 US-gallon) Ember Tetra and Pygmy Corydoras aquarium, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to share an update on how the tank is progressing.

The aquarium uses Fluval Stratum as the substrate, a Seaoura SR659 aquarium light, a Nicrew SLIM hang-on-back filter, and a Fluval T Series heater. Overall, the tank has been running smoothly, and the livestock are all doing well.

One of the biggest changes recently was removing the Ceratopteris thalictroides from the back-right corner of the aquarium. Interestingly, since removing it, the Ember Tetras seem noticeably more confident and spend more time out in the open. I can't say for certain why this happened, but my theory is that the dense plant growth may have made them feel less secure, perhaps because it created areas where potential predators could theoretically hide. Whatever the reason, they're now much more visible and active throughout the tank.

The Pygmy Corydoras continue to behave exactly as Pygmy Corydoras usually do. They spend much of their time weaving through the plants, particularly amongst the Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Green' and the Staurogyne repens. They're not always easy to spot, but seeing a small group suddenly emerge from the plants is always a highlight.

The Amano shrimp population continues to thrive, but the Blue Neocaridina shrimp are proving a little more challenging. Although the shrimp are breeding successfully, I'm fairly sure the Ember Tetras are eating the majority of the shrimplets before they can reach adulthood. As a result, the colony isn't expanding in the way I had hoped despite regular breeding activity.

Most of the plants are growing well, and the aquarium remains densely planted. Removing the Ceratopteris was necessary because the warmer weather caused its growth rate to explode. While fast-growing plants can be useful, it was increasing maintenance requirements and creating too much shade for my AR Mini and Staurogyne repens, both of which were beginning to struggle due to reduced light levels.

Over the next few weeks, I'm considering adding Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Mi Oya' to the back-right corner and Cryptocoryne 'Green Gecko' to the front-right area to fill some of the available space and add a bit more visual interest.

The houseplants growing from the back rim of the aquarium with their roots suspended in the water are also benefiting from the warmer temperatures. The Peace Lily has noticeably accelerated its growth over the last couple of weeks, and I'm hoping the newer Spider Plant and Cebu Blue Pothos start doing the same soon.

It's always interesting to see how an aquarium evolves over time, and this tank continues to teach me new things nearly 300 days after it was first set up.

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The Best Plants For A 10 Gallon (40 Litre) Planted Aquarium!

If you're setting up a 40-litre (10 US gallon) planted aquarium and wondering which plants are best for beginners, here are some of my favourite species that have performed well in smaller tanks without requiring complicated equipment or high-maintenance routines.

Check out more great plants for 10-gallon tanks - https://glassboxdiaries.com/lowtechplantindex/tank_size-35-litres-10-gallons

For the background, Lindernia rotundifolia is a fantastic but often overlooked stem plant. The attractive variegation gives it a unique look compared to many common green stem plants, and its fast growth rate can help stabilise water parameters while competing with algae for excess nutrients. It's a great choice for filling out the rear of a tank and creating a lush planted appearance.

For the midground, Echinodorus 'Tropica' is one of the best dwarf sword plants available. Unlike many larger Amazon swords that can quickly outgrow a 40-litre aquarium, this variety remains compact while still providing the classic sword plant appearance. It creates a focal point without overwhelming the aquascape.

Moving into the foreground, Cryptocoryne albida 'Brown' offers something many planted tanks lack: colour. Its brown and bronze tones help break up the sea of green that often dominates beginner aquascapes while remaining relatively easy to care for under standard aquarium lighting.

If you're interested in growing a carpet, Helanthium tenellum 'Green' is one of the easiest carpeting plants I've come across. Unlike many popular carpet species, it can spread successfully under entry-level lights and doesn't require injected CO₂, making it ideal for beginners looking to create a natural grassy foreground.

Another excellent midground option is Cryptocoryne beckettii 'Petchii'. This plant develops attractive brown and reddish tones that add contrast and depth to an aquarium while remaining easy to grow in low-tech setups.

For hardscape, Anubias nana remains one of the best beginner plants available. It can be attached to rocks or driftwood, tolerates a wide range of conditions, and grows slowly enough that it rarely becomes difficult to manage. Its compact size makes it particularly well suited to 40-litre aquariums.

Floating plants have become increasingly popular, and Salvinia cucullata is one of the most interesting species available. Its tightly folded leaves give it a distinctive appearance while retaining the hardiness that makes Salvinia species so easy to keep. Floating plants can also help absorb nutrients and provide shade for fish and shrimp.

Finally, if you'd like to take your aquarium beyond the waterline, Spider Plant is an excellent emergent option. With its roots submerged in the aquarium, it can grow surprisingly well while creating a natural transition between the tank and the room around it. The exposed foliage can also help give your aquarium a more natural ecosystem-style appearance.

One of the best things about all of these plants is that they can thrive in beginner-friendly, low-tech aquariums without the need for expensive equipment. With a decent light, a suitable substrate, and a little patience, it's possible to create a beautiful planted 40-litre aquarium that looks great while providing a healthier environment for fish, shrimp, and snails.

Whether you're building your first planted tank or looking for new species to try, these plants are all worth considering for a 40-litre setup. They offer a combination of attractive growth, manageable size, and beginner-friendly care requirements that make them ideal for smaller aquariums.

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An Affordable, Beginner-Friendly Nano Tank Setup To Get You Started In The Hobby!

Looking for a budget-friendly nano aquarium setup that actually works? In this video, I walk through the exact equipment I'd recommend for anyone getting started with a planted nano tank without spending a fortune.

This setup comes in at around £90, $120, or €105 and is based on products I've personally used for years across multiple aquariums. Rather than chasing expensive premium equipment, I've always preferred reliable products that offer great performance for the money, and these are the items I keep coming back to whenever I set up a new tank.

The foundation of the setup is a 25-litre (6.6 US gallon) Diversa aquarium. It's a fantastic size for shrimp, snails, and smaller nano fish while still being compact enough to fit on most desks, countertops, and shelving units. If you want more stocking options, you can always move up to the 45-litre version while keeping the same basic equipment philosophy.

For lighting, I recommend the Seaoura SR616 aquarium light. This has become my favourite budget planted tank light thanks to its combination of affordability, reliability, and plant-growing performance. I've used several of these lights over the years and continue to run them on multiple aquariums today. Whether you're growing easy plants like Anubias and Java Fern or faster-growing stem plants, this light offers excellent value for money.

Filtration is provided by the Nicrew Slim Hang-On-Back filter. While I replace the included disposable cartridges with 30 PPI filter foam, the filter itself is one of the best budget options I've found for nano aquariums. The foam modification improves biological filtration, reduces running costs, and makes maintenance much simpler over the long term. It's a setup I've used successfully on numerous tanks.

To maintain stable temperatures, I recommend the Fluval T Series heater, particularly the T50 model. Its power output is well suited to smaller aquariums and helps keep tropical fish, shrimp, and plants comfortable year-round. Like the rest of the equipment featured in this video, it's a product I've trusted for years without any reliability issues.

If you're planning your first nano aquarium, setting up a shrimp tank, or simply looking for affordable equipment recommendations, this combination provides a proven starting point that won't break the bank.

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A Quick Walk Around The Aquatics Section Of Pets At Home Sheffield!

Here's a quick tour of the aquatics section at Pets at Home Sheffield, one of the largest pet store chains in the UK. Unfortunately, they had just received a fish delivery, so the aquarium lights were turned off to help reduce stress and allow the fish time to settle into their new surroundings.

While they had all the usual community fish you'd expect to find in a big-box store, including tetras, rasboras, danios, and livebearers, there were a few species that stood out. I was surprised to see bamboo shrimp, as I've never spotted them in any other Pets at Home branch. They also had kribensis, otocinclus, and even celestial pearl danios, although the CPD tank was blocked off, so I couldn't get a proper look at them.

There were three bettas available, and sadly the healthiest-looking fish was still in pretty rough condition. This is one of the reasons I always encourage people to carefully inspect fish before purchasing and to quarantine new arrivals whenever possible.

I also spotted a common misidentification that appears throughout the hobby. The store was labelling red robin gouramis as red honey gouramis. These are not the same species, so if you're looking for genuine honey gouramis, it's worth doing your research before buying.

One thing that genuinely surprised me was seeing goldfish for sale. None of my local branches stock them, and I had previously been told that the chain had stopped selling them altogether.

The store also carried its usual selection of aquarium kits, equipment, live plants, fish foods, and accessories. The Tropica plant display contained a good range of beginner-friendly aquarium plants, and the Fluval Bug Bites and Hikari foods they stock are both products I've personally used for years with good results.

Although it's always interesting to visit stores like this and see what they have available, I still prefer supporting independent aquatic shops whenever possible. In my experience, specialist fish stores often provide better livestock quality, more knowledgeable advice, and a wider selection of unusual species.

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🌿 Mulm isn’t just aquarium waste… it’s the foundation of a thriving ecosystem.

In this article, I dive into the science behind mulm, including its role in biological filtration, nutrient cycling, plant growth, food webs, and long-term ecosystem stability.

📖 Read the full article here - https://glassboxdiaries.com/the-magic-of-mulm/

For years, many fish keepers have been taught to siphon out every bit of mulm during maintenance. But what if that layer of detritus is actually one of the most valuable parts of your aquarium?

Mulm supports beneficial microorganisms, fuels nutrient recycling, provides food for shrimp, snails, and microfauna, and helps create the complex food webs found in healthy natural ecosystems.

Rather than being something to remove completely, a balanced layer of mulm may be one of the keys to a more stable, self-sustaining aquarium.

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The Best Aquarium Driftwood Options I have Tried In My Own Planted Tank Setups!

Thinking about adding driftwood to your aquarium? 🌿🐟 Here’s my experience with some of the most popular aquarium driftwood options available in the fishkeeping hobby and how they compare when it comes to appearance, tannins, availability, and overall value.

Spider wood is easily one of the most popular choices, and it’s easy to see why. It’s affordable, widely available, comes in a huge variety of interesting shapes, and releases very few tannins, meaning it usually won’t stain your aquarium water. For many aquascapers, it’s one of the easiest driftwood options to work with.

Corbo wood has been growing rapidly in popularity over the last few years. While it can cost a little more than spider wood, it still offers excellent value and comes in plenty of unique shapes that work well in planted aquariums. The main downside is that it releases a moderate amount of tannins, which can give the water a yellow or brown tint.

Mopani wood is another classic option. It’s known for its distinctive two-tone appearance, with one light section and one dark section. It’s generally affordable, easy to find, and can create a stunning focal point in an aquascape. In my experience, the lighter section darkens once submerged, and it releases a moderate amount of tannins.

Bogwood remains a favourite among many fishkeepers because it’s affordable and widely available. The downside is that many pieces have fairly generic shapes compared to other driftwoods, and it can release a large amount of tannins that noticeably stain the water.

Finally, there’s Centurion wood. It can be harder to source and is often more expensive than the other options mentioned. While it can have some very interesting shapes, it releases a significant amount of tannins. In my experience, it also started breaking down within a few months, releasing wood particles into the water column.

Every type of driftwood has its place depending on your goals, livestock, and aquascaping style. Some hobbyists love tannin-rich blackwater aquariums, while others prefer crystal-clear water. Personally, I’ll be prioritising spider wood and Corbo wood in my aquariums moving forward.

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A Quick Review Of Hikari Micro Pellets After Feeding Them To My Fish For Years!

I've been using Hikari Micro Pellets for years across a wide variety of aquariums, and they've become one of the foods I reach for most often. This isn't a sponsored review—I buy these with my own money and have fed them to countless fish over the years.

What I like most about Hikari Micro Pellets is their consistently small pellet size. Unlike some foods that contain a mix of different-sized pieces, these are ideal for many nano fish species and are readily accepted by even picky eaters. In my experience, fish absolutely love them and quickly rush to the surface when it's feeding time.

I've successfully fed Hikari Micro Pellets to lambchop rasboras, celestial pearl danios, white cloud mountain minnows, guppies, endlers, neon tetras, ember tetras, and many other small community fish. They aren't limited to nano fish either. My pearl gourami, bettas, siamese algae eater, and corydoras have all happily eaten them as part of their regular diet.

The ingredient list is another positive. Fish meal is the primary ingredient, supported by krill meal, cuttlefish meal, spirulina, and seaweed meal. This gives fish a protein-rich food while also including ingredients that can help support colour and overall health.

One thing to be aware of is that these pellets sink a little faster than some competing nano fish foods. In most of my aquariums this isn't an issue because the fish eat them before they reach the bottom. However, if you have very slow-feeding fish, it's something worth keeping in mind.

I don't think these are the best choice for the tiniest nano fish, such as chili rasboras and other Boraras species, because their mouths are often too small to comfortably eat the pellets. My pygmy corydoras will eat them, but they usually need to break the pellets down first rather than swallowing them whole.

Overall, Hikari Micro Pellets remain one of my favourite everyday foods for small community fish and nano aquarium setups. If you're looking for a high-quality staple food that most fish eagerly accept, these are definitely worth considering.

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One Of The Best 5 Gallon Tank Stocking Ideas!

If you're looking for stocking ideas for a 20-litre (5 US gallon) aquarium, most people will immediately recommend a betta fish. While bettas can be a fantastic choice, I think there's an even better option that often gets overlooked: Neocaridina shrimp.

My full article on the best stocking options for 5-gallon tanks - https://glassboxdiaries.com/the-best-nano-fish-for-5-gallon-aquariums-that-suit-any-nano-tank/

Despite becoming more popular in recent years, I still believe these colourful freshwater shrimp are one of the most underrated animals you can keep in a nano aquarium. They're available in a huge range of colours including red, blue, yellow, orange, green, black, white, and many more, allowing you to choose a variety that perfectly matches your aquascape.

One of the biggest advantages of Neocaridina shrimp is their incredibly low bioload compared to fish. Because they produce far less waste, it's much easier to maintain stable water parameters in smaller aquariums where water quality can change quickly. This makes them an excellent choice for beginners who want a thriving aquarium without constantly worrying about ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate spikes.

They're also among the hardiest freshwater shrimp available. In most areas, they'll adapt well to regular tap water and can thrive in a wide range of conditions, provided the water isn't extremely soft or extremely hard. Their beginner-friendly nature makes them a great introduction to the world of shrimp keeping.

Another reason I love Neocaridina shrimp is how quickly they can reproduce. Starting with a small colony of around 10 shrimp can soon lead to dozens, and eventually hundreds, of shrimp filling your tank. Watching baby shrimp appear and seeing a colony grow over time is one of the most rewarding parts of the hobby.

They're also constantly active, grazing on biofilm, algae, and leftover food throughout the day. This means there's always something interesting happening in the aquarium, making them surprisingly entertaining to watch despite their small size.

With their growing popularity, Neocaridina shrimp are now widely available from local fish stores and online breeders. Prices have remained affordable in many areas, making them one of the best-value livestock options for nano aquariums.

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Budget-Friendly Aquarium Lights For Planted Tanks - Mid-2026!

Looking for the best budget-friendly aquarium light for your planted tank? Here's a quick overview of some of the most popular entry-level aquarium lighting brands and how they compare in 2025.

My article on the best affordable lights for low-tech planted tanks - https://glassboxdiaries.com/best-aquarium-lights/

Nicrew has been a go-to choice for years thanks to its affordable pricing and reliable performance. However, it feels like the brand is starting to fall behind the competition. As far as I can tell, they haven't released a new aquarium light since 2024, and when I contacted them last year, they confirmed there were no new releases planned. While their existing lights still work well, other brands have introduced newer features that make Nicrew's current lineup feel a little dated.

Hygger remains one of the most popular budget aquarium lighting brands in the hobby. I still use multiple Hygger 957 lights and a HG76 on my own tanks, and they've served me well. Their newest model appears to be the HG248, but it doesn't seem to bring anything particularly groundbreaking to the table when compared to some of the newer competitors entering the market.

AQQA is a brand that's becoming increasingly interesting to planted tank hobbyists. Owned by the same parent company as Hygger, they've recently released the AQ109 in the United States. What makes this light stand out is its independent control of the white and RGB LED channels, allowing you to fine-tune the appearance of your aquarium. While this feature exists on more expensive premium lights, the AQ109 is currently the only entry-level aquarium light I'm aware of that offers this level of customization.

My personal favourite budget aquarium lighting brand right now is Seaoura. I believe the SR616 is currently the best entry-level aquarium light available for most hobbyists. It offers an excellent combination of performance, features, and value for money. Seaoura has also released the newer SR659, which I think provides one of the best feature-to-price ratios for low-tech planted aquariums available today.

What aquarium light are you currently using on your tanks? Let me know in the comments, and don't forget to follow for more aquarium, aquascaping, planted tank, shrimp tank, and fishkeeping content.

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The Best Aquarium Rocks To Use For Hardscape In Your Tanks!

Trying to choose the best aquarium rock for your planted tank, shrimp tank, or aquascape? In this video, I share my personal experiences with four of the most popular aquarium rocks in the hobby: Lava Rock, Seiryu Stone, Hakkai Stone, and Black Sky Rock (also known as Black Star Rock).

Over the years, I’ve used all of these rocks in different aquariums, and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages depending on your goals, livestock, and budget.

Lava Rock is probably the rock I use most often. It’s lightweight, affordable, easy to find, and works well in everything from low-tech planted tanks to shrimp tanks. Although some hobbyists worry about its sharp edges, I’ve used it for years and haven’t experienced any problems.

Seiryu Stone is one of the most popular aquascaping rocks available. It has a stunning appearance, but it can release calcium carbonate into the water, potentially raising pH, GH, and KH. While that may not be ideal for every setup, it can actually be beneficial for hobbyists with very soft water who keep shrimp or snails that appreciate harder water conditions.

Hakkai Stone is another favorite of mine. It has a smooth appearance, is completely inert, and won’t alter your water parameters. However, it’s a dense rock, which means it can become expensive since aquarium hardscape is usually sold by weight.

Finally, Black Sky Rock may be one of the most underrated aquarium rocks available. According to Aquarium Gardens, it is essentially lava rock with the rough edges smoothed off. This means it retains many of lava rock’s benefits while eliminating concerns about sharp surfaces. It’s also inert and much lighter than Hakkai Stone, making it a fantastic all-around option for many aquarists.

Whether you're setting up a nature aquarium, a Walstad-style tank, a shrimp tank, or your next aquascaping project, understanding the pros and cons of different hardscape materials can help you make the right choice.

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A Quick Ember Tetra Vs Chili Rasbora Comparison For Stocking Your New Nano Tank!

Thinking about adding a small schooling fish to your nano aquarium? Here's my comparison of ember tetras and chili rasboras after keeping both species.

Because of their similar size, peaceful nature, and bright orange-to-red coloration, ember tetras and chili rasboras often compete for the same space in planted nano tanks. Both species are beginner-friendly fish that do well in established aquariums with stable water parameters, plenty of plant cover, and a varied diet of quality nano fish foods.

One thing I've noticed is that my chili rasboras are generally much more confident than my ember tetras. They spend more time out in the open and are often visible throughout the day, making them a lot of fun to watch. My ember tetras tend to be more cautious and are more likely to dart away when I approach the tank. Of course, every aquarium is different, and I've spoken to other fishkeepers who have very outgoing ember tetras.

When it comes to cost and availability, ember tetras are the clear winner in my area. They're usually much cheaper than chili rasboras and are available in far more local fish stores. If you're stocking a tank on a budget, that's definitely something worth considering.

Coloration is where chili rasboras really shine. While they can look pale or orange when stressed, settled fish in a well-planted aquarium often develop an incredible deep red color that stands out beautifully against green plants. In my opinion, they have the edge over ember tetras in this category.

I've also found that chili rasboras show more consistent shoaling behavior. Neither species stays tightly grouped 100% of the time, but my chili rasboras tend to move around the aquarium together much more often than my ember tetras.

Feeding is slightly easier with ember tetras because they can eat a wider range of foods, but the growing selection of micro pellets and nano foods means keeping chili rasboras is becoming easier than ever.

For me, chili rasboras take the win thanks to their amazing red coloration, confidence, and shoaling behavior. That said, ember tetras are still fantastic community fish and remain one of the best nano aquarium species available.

[glassboxdiaries]

A Few Tips To Help You Fix Some Common Problems When Cycling Your Aquarium!

A Safe And Easy Cycling Method I Use On Most Of My Tanks - https://glassboxdiaries.com/how-to-easily-cycle-a-fish-tank-using-the-dark-start-method-aquarium-cycle-guide/

Cycling your aquarium is one of the most important steps in setting up a healthy fish tank, yet it's also one of the most misunderstood parts of the hobby. A properly cycled aquarium helps keep toxic ammonia and nitrite levels under control, creating a safer and more stable environment for your fish, shrimp, and other aquatic life.

In this video, I cover some of the most common mistakes that can slow down—or even completely stall—the aquarium cycling process. Whether you're setting up your very first tank or you've been keeping fish for years, avoiding these mistakes can help you establish a healthy biological filter much faster.

One of the biggest mistakes is not adding an ammonia source. The beneficial microorganisms responsible for the nitrogen cycle need food in order to grow and multiply. Without ammonia, there is nothing to feed them and the cycle simply cannot get started. I personally use bottled ammonia, but fish food, aquasoils, and some dirted aquarium substrates can also provide enough ammonia to begin the cycling process.

I also discuss how pH and KH can affect cycling speed. While low pH and KH won't necessarily stop a cycle from happening, they can significantly slow down the growth of beneficial microorganisms. If you have naturally soft water, like I do, don't be surprised if your aquarium takes much longer to fully cycle than what many online guides suggest.

Temperature is another often overlooked factor. The microorganisms involved in the nitrogen cycle generally reproduce faster in warmer water, so cycling a tank at temperatures above 25°C (77°F) can help speed things up.

Finally, I talk about phosphate and why it can sometimes become a limiting factor during the cycling process. Most tap water contains enough phosphate, but in rare cases a lack of phosphate can slow the conversion of nitrite into nitrate.

If you're currently cycling a new aquarium, this video could save you weeks of frustration and help you avoid common beginner mistakes.