The rugged, mountainous island of Kalymnos, located between Kos and Leros, is famous for its historic sponge-diving heritage and world-class sport climbing.
Together with Colorado, Kalymnos is renowned as one of the premier sport climbing[1] destinations in the world and attracts experienced rock climbers to test their skills on the 4,500+ high-quality, fully bolted limestone routes, ranging from beginner slabs to extreme overhangs.
No rock climbing for us, instead, from our base at Lina Apartments in Masouri, we hired a little 125cc Vespa[2] and spent three days touring the island. You can drive round the island in an hour and a half, clockwise one day and anti-clockwise the next.
Breakfast with sisters at their Canteen in Arginonta taking shade under gnarly centuries old olive trees.
All the way to Emporious in the north, up and across zig-zag mountain roads to Palionisos Bay.
Swimming in the fjord at Rina, the Nautical Museum in Pothia, pizzas and gorgonzola gnocchi in Masouri.[3]
At the Nautical Museum and were delighted and entertained by a documentary film, made in the late 1960s, of the island’s sponge fishing industry – the profitable albeit dangerous sea paths that the Kalminians chose as a means of earning a living during the last two centuries. Boats would set sail to North African waters in early March not returning until late September.
Most often family members (all men) would crew the same boat and so the day before departure a “dinner of love” would be held to say farewell and safe travels to loved ones. A priest would bless the crew and the boat. Every man smoked, smoking was sign that your lungs worked and would cope with the pressure of working underwater.
Contracting the “Bends” was a high risk and there were many deaths at sea. There was no sea to land communication and in September ships returning flying a flag at half-mast indicated that not all the crew had made it home.
A 10-minute water-taxi ride from Myrties sits the tiny, car-free island of Telendos, offering secluded coves, quiet beaches, and excellent seafood tavernas[4] where lazy cats interrupt their snooze in the sun to miaow for scraps from gullible tourists.
When the sun goes down the main peak of Telendos take on the shape of a sleeping giant breathing out fire.
[1] Klarastein Photography. T: +43 67761 395104 E: office [email protected] www.klarastein.com
[2] Vasilis ScootersT: +30 6949 028564 www.vasilisscooters.gr
