EL ATENEO GRAND SPLENDID, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA (December 24, 2023) One Big Fight! How could I resist passing by and taking snaps in this famed bookstore that carries the same name as my alma mater? The day prior, Paul Pasco took me brought me to the wrong branch; and so today, while he was in Uruguay, I took the subway and relied on my instincts to find in another part of the city this picturesque store. In 2019, the National Geographic named it “the world’s most beautiful bookstore.” Originally the Teatro Gran Splendid of Buenos Aires, it was an auditorium designed in 1919 to pay homage to the Paris Opera with its ceiling mural, marble columns, and elaborately decorated balconies. Today, the stage is a cafe, the orchestra and first balcony are brimming with bookshelves, and the upper floors have been converted into reading rooms for this bookstore, which is just one in a chain of others called El Ateneo.











