FIESTAS FIESTAS FIESTAS
Hi there again from Lima and Feliz Año Nuevo (Happy New Year)!
It has been a fun month or so here in Peru since I last updated you on my life here. I have always loved the week of Thanksgiving then the following weeks leading to Christmas and then New Year’s, which includes my birthday on the second of December. While this year was no exception to the love I have for the holidays, I definitely noted difference.
THANKSGIVING
Thanksgiving is not celebrated in Peru. I am sure that this will not surprise you, as the fabled story of the settlers from the Mayflower landed at Plymouth Rock and not on the Costa Verde (Green Coast) in Lima. However, I did find different ways to give thanks during that week in November. First, our site coordinator, Jenny, had us send her five things that we are grateful for on our weekly email, so that really helped to put things in perspective in the coming weeks, which of course were a little difficult to watch from social media, seeing my family/friends gathering together without me. I knew and still know that I have a lot to be grateful for in Lima or elsewhere in Peru, as well as back home.
Second, at the Red we had a staff retreat that was opened with a liturgy of gratitude and thanksgiving, and we all shared three things that we’re thankful for which was a positive note to begin our retreat.
(The view from our hike during our staff retreat and then my Thanksgiving dinner.)
Third, an American family from my church (I attended an Anglican church full of foreigners and Peruvians alike) invited me over for a Thanksgiving dinner. I shared turkey with Americans, Britons, Dutch, Peruvians, Mexicans, etc.
Though Thanksgiving is not celebrated in Peru, I had a wonderful Thanksgiving experience here and it made me realize all for which I am thankful.
MY BIRTHDAY
My first birthday outside of the US was celebrated fully and it included three cakes. On Thursday (the 1st of December) with my colleagues from the Red Uniendo Manos Peru, I was surprised by the biggest birthday card I’ve ever received on the whiteboard over my desk. I was treated to a lunch out, my choice of food. I chose Italian because I hadn’t had pasta in a while. We had wonderful conversation at the table and when we returned to the office we had cake (tres leches).
(My birthday card on the whiteboard made by my friend Karla.)
(Me and my first birthday cake, the flavor was tres leches.)
On Friday, the 2nd, my real birthday, I was told that we would be going to my boss Cecilia’s house to work on things for CEDEMUNEP, but really Cecilia had prepared a birthday lunch for us to enjoy together.After lunch we were talking in her living room when all of a sudden there was a cake (mocha) in my face with candles to be blown out. It was a very sweet celebration. That evening I made it home to my host family for more cake (carrot, but the best carrot cake I’ve ever had in my life). It was a great ending to my birthday.
(Top: Me with my boss Cecilia (holding cake) her husband, her daughter (in the pink dragon once) and my colleagues while they sing me happy birthday. Bottom: Me with my host mom, her mom, and in the stripes Haydea, a friend of my host mom who rents a room in our house.)
WEEKS LEADING UP TO CHRISTMAS
December was a very busy month as it is everywhere else in the world. At CEDEMUNEP we attended several community Christmas parties held for children called “chocolatadas” because they include hot chocolate and this Italian sweet bread with candied fruits and raisin called paneton. They also included a clown or magician show for the kids as well as presents from Santa or one of his elves. A very awesome experience to be a part of.
In my office at the Red Uniendo Manos we had a Christmas potluck in which everyone brought a delicious dish to share and we dined at our conference room table with villancicos, or Peruvian Christmas songs, playing in the background. My site coordinator’s husband Jed made mac and cheese and sweet potato casserole which was very exciting for my American taste buds.
(Jed and Jenny at the conference room table. Jed is putting a spoon in the mac and cheese so that we can serve ourselves.)
(Toasting to la navidad in the office as Jed snaps our picture in the office. Next to me is Jenny, at the head of the table Sr. Conrado, Karin, and Ysabel. Not pictured Karla or Daniela.)
Around Lima, the whole city and all of its neighborhoods and districts were ready for Christmas. Every district’s main plaza had a nacimiento, or nativity scene, and a Christmas tree. Some plazas had more, some had Santa Clauses or multiple Christmas trees. Apartment terraces and houses were lit up and blinking and sometimes singing the electronic songs. In my house I helped my host mom put up her tree and decorate her yard, and put up her huge nacimiento (nativity scene). I’m not kidding, it takes up her whole built-in bookshelf in the living room.
(Three of our trees two are in the garden.)
(The nativity scene from far away and unfocused and a close up of the Mary and Joseph or Maria and Jose waiting for the birth of their son, Jesus.)
(The tree in the plaza near our house.)
(The nativity scene in Iquitos, Peru located in the Amazon region of Peru.)
DECEMBER 23RD
December 23rd isn’t a special holiday celebrated in Peru by any means, but it is remembered in my host family because it is the day that my host mom’s father and my host grandmother’s husband died 37 years ago. In the Catholic tradition, if I am understanding correctly, families hold mass for their passed love ones on the anniversaries of their deaths. So on December 23rd I attended mass with my host grandmother and mother and her four out of five siblings (one lives in Spain). It was definitely a somber morning walking to and from the church. But once we returned to the house for hot chocolate and paneton after, the family was a lively bunch.
I had already met all of my host grandmother’s children individually or with their spouses, so it was a joy to see them sit together at one table with their mom. It reminded me of sitting with my own family at the dinner table. They talked about their kids and what they’re doing, what’s the “problem” with kids today etc. Then, Pepe, my host-grandmother’s oldest son brought out his keyboard and played songs and everyone sang along. It really was a merry time.
NOCHE BUENA
Christmas Eve in most hispanic countries is called Noche Buena or “Good Night.” It is celebrated with a dinner usually beginning at midnight while fireworks echo throughout Lima. But since I live in a house with older adults we began our dinner around nine-thirty. We had a turkey, sweet potatoes, different kinds of salads, apple sauce, and champagne. It was all very delicious and I was ready to welcome the coming of baby Jesus with my family. Around 10:30 or 11 my host mom and her mother went to bed, but I stayed up with my host mom’s son, David, watching the mass in Rome on TV. At midnight fireworks began to go off and we went outside to watch from the garden. It wasn’t the best view because we were so low and buildings were in the way but it was still pretty cool. After watching the fireworks, I went ahead and went to bed because I had a flight the next day.
Traditionally presents are usually opened at midnight on Christmas so I do not believe that every Peruvian has the tradition of Santa Claus. Some do, but not all. We didn’t stay up all night to exchange presents. I’d given my host family their presents the day before because I bought them plants and my host mom gave me my present on Christmas Eve: a super cute pair of earrings.
CHRISTMAS DAY
Christmas Day is observed as a holiday in Peru, but most of the fun stuff is all done on Christmas Eve. I spent my Christmas Day in the Lima airport heading to Iquitos, Peru. More on that later.
NEW YEAR’S EVE
New Year’s Eve has some fun quirks in Peru. There is also an evening family dinner. We had our dinner early again. My host-mom’s brother brought over some pollo a la brasa which is a great rotisserie chicken usually served with french fries. My host-mom made a couple of salads to go with our meal. And of course we had some champagne to toast to the New Year. You also eat twelve grapes, one for each month in the coming year. My host mom added that while chewing the grapes individually you think of a wish or desire that you want for each month. Then our grapes were not seedless because the more seeds you get in your grapes the more money you will make. I think that’s a little funny because I know that for at least half of 2017 my income will continue to be pretty low. So maybe my grape seeds will bring me wealth in experiences over the New Year. You’re supposed to carry the grape seeds around in your purse or wallet with you for the next year as a good omen. My fellow Peru YAV Kristen was visiting Lima for a bit so she had dinner with us and my host-mom actually bagged up her grape seeds for her to take with her.
Around 11 after dinner and after washing and drying the dishes we headed over to my host-mom’s son’s apartment. David’s building has about 7 floors so we were able to go up to the roof for our New Year’s toast and to watch the fireworks which we could see all up and down the coast and towards the center of Lima. It was an incredible view and I didn’t want to leave the roof until the last firework had burnt out.
One last funny thing about New Year is that the color of underwear you’re wearing at New Year is supposed to determine your year. Yellow is the color of wealth and prosperity or plata (literally silver, but slang for money). So yellow is the most popular color and everyone sells yellow underwear and everyone buys yellow underwear. I missed out on this yellow underwear thing but I was wearing blue underwear and that’s supposed to bring you good health and wellness in the New Year, so I’m not complaining.
(Fireworks from David’s roof. I didn’t save the videos I took that night, hindsight is 20/20.)
Feliz año and until next time friends! Much love from south of the equator!
