Untitled

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

The Way of Smart Merchandising

The Way of Smart Merchandising

Muhammad Nurul Alam Senior Merchandiser | Asmara BD Pvt. Ltd. | Dhaka | Bangladesh Cell: [phone] E-mail : [email protected]

Introduction: Do you know what is the working hour for a merchandiser in Bangladesh . Believe or not Merchandisers in Bangladesh are working more than 13-14 hours as regular job & some time much more . Always they are busy with hundreds of work schedule but nothing can be completed within office hour . So they have to stay in work place up-to late night . You can’t say this is only inefficiency of their profession because most of the time they are over loaded . The owners are having a cost minimizing tendency so they hire a Merchandiser instead of two or more without considering the demand of work load . As a result a merchandiser always fail to enjoy their regular life & gets tired . They loss their innovative force & feel exhausted in older years . We often see merchandiser who aged beyond 45-50 either loss their job or stay in the organization as a good for nothing . Owners don’t want to pay higher salary for him though they already have taken valuable energy ,time & work force in early age . This is really shocking that now they feel you are not to be used . Yes , right now we have to think how can take the best from our life period . Whatever the age we should have to keep energy & not to be exhausted . We can think for us from today & prepare a new deal for your career . To make easy & to be smarter merchandiser in our way of working please let us do something different . Today we are going to discuss how you can manage your thousands of job in a limited period of hours & can keep maximum energy .

Merchandiser work in office

1) Make a list of all your job: This is very important what you are doing to keep it in your daily schedule . It would be better to make schedule 1st daily than weekly & finally monthly . Why this is important to do list ? First of all we are human being. So this is not possible to keep everything in our mind & to do the thing in priority basis . Usually a Merchandiser has to work through lots of stress as well as difficulties . For which this is not surprising if you see he is forgetting to do some most important task that should have to perform in first priority . The second thing is – when we see thousands of task that we have to perform within a very short period of time our nerves gets week . we feel exhausted & fatigue . So by the making schedule we can easily prioritize your task & get the most important & urgent thing . The below diagram will help everyone to do list in the work priority . This may take little time to make your habit with the method but believe me the method is really effective .

Urgent

Not Urgent

Important

Fabric booking

Yarn procurement

Price for new query

PP sample submission

Recape meeting with senior

Production up-date

Bulk Lot shade approval

Factory visit & get the production status

Not Important

File & Sample organizing

System Up-date

Price review

New product collection

Develop product knowledge

Knowing up-date product status of other customer

2) Don’t put task for tomorrow:

Just keep in mind that tomorrow never come . If you are thinking today is for relax & tomorrow will be your busy day that would be unrealistic . Actually it does not happen because tomorrow you will see new task has added to do & in this way task will be more . One day without doing your important task means you are going to burden yourself for tomorrow .So whatever you think that should have be done today from your task priority list , do it immediately . Never wait for tomorrow. 3) Check double/Triple which is mathematical: Usually a merchandiser works in a rush movement so sometimes it is not possible to do all the mathematical task in cool mind . Suppose you are going to book fabric or yarn . Here you have to calculate some figure to get the fabric amount that can be used for bulk . but for the all rush movement you made little mistake & proceeded for procurement . Your delivery time may be very short so without any revision of your booking hand over it to supplier & finally when the fabric in-housed it was identified what mistake you have done earlier during fabric booking. May be you mistake in color name or fabrication is wrong . Instead of 90/10 cotton/elastane you received fabric in 100% cotton . This is due to you worked in an old work order sheet where fabric was booked in 100% cotton & in the new sheet fabrication was not changed . The mistake is very little but outcome is devastating . To save time you did not give a cross check on the sheet & now all of your production schedule has gone to drain . This is really measurable when you will see your fabric is in-housed but cannot meet delivery date . Now again book the fabric newly & shipped the goods by air due to you missed delivery date . Actually this would not happen if you are careful & taking extra time give revision twice or triple . If you can take help from your colleague to see the booking as second party . This will help you to avoid extra hassle & to utilize your time properly . Here you can keep some key for cross check . cross check means the figure that should be off course changed in new booking . For fabric booking check the below

Fabric composition .

Fabric construction .

Fabric color .

Fabric width .

Finally Fabric Qty .

4) Don’t miss any mail: A single mail can change total output . If you are not properly look into your mail & work through of it you may miss some important information . So read your every single mail & share the mail with all the relevant party . Don’t keep it in your box only . If you have some mail that you should give answer please keep it in red mark so that it will not go out of your track . 5) Don’t do a task twice: This is actually relevant to point no 3 . Take extra time to do anything but don’t think you will do it twice or 2nd time you will get the opportunity to do it again . Suppose you are in great rush hour to submit sample, giving mail repeatedly to factory to submit the sample in certain date along with lots of phone call . Finally received it but factory made mistake to follow earlier comments what buyer has given . That means the sample is rejected & is not ok to send buyer . Again the sample is made following the comments but it was late one week . So all your production plan got delayed because of not to submit the sample due date . Actually from beginning you could avoid all the delay & wrong thing . If you could take just extra 15 minutes to check the change that buyer want in the earlier comment or before stitching you could visit factory & check everything that sample is going in right way it would help you to save time & energy . Take extra minute to do anything . 5) Do extra work just one day: In your ‘to do list’ you got some task that has to be done by this week but you are engaged so much in some important meeting so could not able to work on weekly schedule . Now what can you do ? Use only one day to work extra hour in the week . Never think to do it every day . You can work extra hour at the last working day of a week so that the next day you can do relax & enjoy family . So a day for a week can be your extra hour to finish pending task . This will help you to minimize your work load .

6) Make a good relation with everyone to get job done early:

This is said that everyone is king in his own work place . May be the person is a lab in charge . As job routine he is bound to do what are all your requirement because owner assigned him to do job what merchandiser demand in related to lab issue . But this is also true he keeps schedule in his every day to do list as per queue . So you cannot ask for lab dip just in a day where as he has hundreds of lab making in the schedule . Here if you have good relation with the person it will be easy to get lab dip though you are not in the queue . So make a good relation to all the department even a person who is in a worker level . Never underestimate any one . Respect all to get respect from every one . 7) Utilize down time: Usually success comes from the time which is not usually counted by the commners . Because to do extra work there are no alternative way except utilizing down time . Down time means – the time what you are just doing nothing or doing one more job simultaneously . Suppose you are just stucked in the traffic jam which is very common in our city life . It is often seen people are just seating in the jam & trying to blame the system . But if you want to use your down time ,this can be an opportunity for you . Take journal or book & start reading . That means all of your time can be used properly . On the other hand you can use down time in different way . May be you are having lunch .This may take 15 minutes to finish . During your lunch time you can listen radio news in your mobile . This will help you to get up-date information about what is happening around you . your busy life will not stop you to be up-dated in a new day . 8) Keep proper tracking whatever your are doing: We are human being . So sometime this is not possible to keep everything in our memory . In the merchandising no one can you say everything is in tracking unless he follows some basic rules . The basic rules of keeping track is ‘put down notes’ in your excel sheet or note book . Make a excel sheet & put all your information whatever you receive every day . Put the date on the stuff what you receive from buyer & what you send to buyer . keep same information on the submitted items to avoid any kinds of confusion between you & buyer . Keep your sample / swatch in a place where anything may not be lost . Make sure to keep separately all your important items to be understood by everyone or to get it in your absence . You can follow below rules to keep tracking .

Put date on everything .

Up-date & review your excel sheet every day .

Keep hard copy of all your important mail . Because some time you may not be in net service when the information is required .

Put your excel saved in your draft mail to find the data available incase computer is got effected by the harmful virus .

Don’t forget to send a mail to any consignee whenever you are sending sample /swatch .

9) Keep all approval in hand : Don’t miss any of your approval that received from buyer . Suppose fabric quality , sample or trims whatever comments on submission please keep in proper way so that it will not loss . If you have several submission on particular item that sent to buyer make sure to keep date & comment for each submission . This will help you not to be haphazard among the all submission . 10) Don’t miss to put anything on mailing correspondence : Some time you may feel unnecessary to put things in the mail whatever discussion you did in phone or verbal communication with someone . In reality this is very important & never delay to put the content you discussed in a written document /mail to prove the conversation . Suppose a trim supplier confirmed you in a particular date to deliver the item over the phone . As you feel the commitment is definitely will be met so did not put the conversation in mail . But in the due date you get the supplier denied to deliver the item & ignored his commitment . So if you could keep the commitment in a written document it would be easier to hold him . Believe me this is most effective to make easy your job ,keeping things in mail . 11) Keep clean your desk : A merchandiser has to do hundreds of job in a day so this is quite natural if his desk gets occupied by lots of stuff like paper , swatch , trims etc. Every day new items come to you & your surrounding is seeming a little store of fabric , sample & with others thing . You feel over loaded as your desk is overloaded by working stuff . How can you clean your desk to make free from all kinds dizzy materials ? This is really challenging for you rather than your daily job . Some time we feel keeping things on desk is not a problem & this is actually to get the things in hand . Believe me if your boss or others want to see anything in your obscene from the desk they might be puzzled & confused what to take & what to not take . So use only 30 minutes to keep clean your desk & put all the stuff in particular folder so that anyone can find any important item . This will make your job easy . Remember ‘The true competition lies is not what we do, but how we do it’. 12) Take suggestion if you are in trouble : The universal truth is – two head is better than one head . That means if you are trying to do something counsel with other so that you can work more efficiently with less error . Never think you are the perfect one & no need to take suggestion from others . In other way this is called – cheer leader .Cheer leader is your boss , co-worker , friend so If you want to be in track & to do the correctly must discuss with fellow people. Definitely this will ease your job . 13) Filing & updating : A merchandiser means lots of file & documents, so maintaining file for the each order & keeping the necessary stuff is very important . Actually this is little similar to the point ‘Keep clean your desk’. However this is specifically to put the thing in file properly . How your file will look ? where to keep it ? what name can be given to each file ? there are lots of issue that should have to take in consideration if are really interested to be a smarter merchandiser . To do your task in smart way you need to think about your file . Suppose where to keep it ? always try to keep your important file close to your hand so that you might not be haphazardly looking for your file when you need . Here some suggestion how to keep file –

Put a name for your file in bold letter .

Put all the information on top of the file ,example – style name , PO no , Qty , & a garment sketch .

Your file should be clean & need to keep all the paper in a chronological way .

For easy understanding you can use divider to keep separate the subject matter .

Use folder to keep different submission ,off course don’t forget to write date .

Use metal cliff so that the file can be use for long time .

If you receive revised PO please make sure to keep it in file & keep a cross mark on old PO .

Never remove any paper from your file ,if Pos are revised keep date on old file & write on top of it why this is changed . 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

The Way of Smart Merchandising

The Way of Smart Merchandising

Muhammad Nurul Alam Senior Merchandiser | Asmara BD Pvt. Ltd. | Dhaka | Bangladesh Cell: [phone] E-mail : [email protected]

Introduction: Do you know what is the working hour for a merchandiser in Bangladesh . Believe or not Merchandisers in Bangladesh are working more than 13-14 hours as regular job & some time much more . Always they are busy with hundreds of work schedule but nothing can be completed within office hour . So they have to stay in work place up-to late night . You can’t say this is only inefficiency of their profession because most of the time they are over loaded . The owners are having a cost minimizing tendency so they hire a Merchandiser instead of two or more without considering the demand of work load . As a result a merchandiser always fail to enjoy their regular life & gets tired . They loss their innovative force & feel exhausted in older years . We often see merchandiser who aged beyond 45-50 either loss their job or stay in the organization as a good for nothing . Owners don’t want to pay higher salary for him though they already have taken valuable energy ,time & work force in early age . This is really shocking that now they feel you are not to be used . Yes , right now we have to think how can take the best from our life period . Whatever the age we should have to keep energy & not to be exhausted . We can think for us from today & prepare a new deal for your career . To make easy & to be smarter merchandiser in our way of working please let us do something different . Today we are going to discuss how you can manage your thousands of job in a limited period of hours & can keep maximum energy .

Merchandiser work in office

1) Make a list of all your job: This is very important what you are doing to keep it in your daily schedule . It would be better to make schedule 1st daily than weekly & finally monthly . Why this is important to do list ? First of all we are human being. So this is not possible to keep everything in our mind & to do the thing in priority basis . Usually a Merchandiser has to work through lots of stress as well as difficulties . For which this is not surprising if you see he is forgetting to do some most important task that should have to perform in first priority . The second thing is – when we see thousands of task that we have to perform within a very short period of time our nerves gets week . we feel exhausted & fatigue . So by the making schedule we can easily prioritize your task & get the most important & urgent thing . The below diagram will help everyone to do list in the work priority . This may take little time to make your habit with the method but believe me the method is really effective .

Urgent

Not Urgent

Important

Fabric booking

Yarn procurement

Price for new query

PP sample submission

Recape meeting with senior

Production up-date

Bulk Lot shade approval

Factory visit & get the production status

Not Important

File & Sample organizing

System Up-date

Price review

New product collection

Develop product knowledge

Knowing up-date product status of other customer

2) Don’t put task for tomorrow:

Just keep in mind that tomorrow never come . If you are thinking today is for relax & tomorrow will be your busy day that would be unrealistic . Actually it does not happen because tomorrow you will see new task has added to do & in this way task will be more . One day without doing your important task means you are going to burden yourself for tomorrow .So whatever you think that should have be done today from your task priority list , do it immediately . Never wait for tomorrow. 3) Check double/Triple which is mathematical: Usually a merchandiser works in a rush movement so sometimes it is not possible to do all the mathematical task in cool mind . Suppose you are going to book fabric or yarn . Here you have to calculate some figure to get the fabric amount that can be used for bulk . but for the all rush movement you made little mistake & proceeded for procurement . Your delivery time may be very short so without any revision of your booking hand over it to supplier & finally when the fabric in-housed it was identified what mistake you have done earlier during fabric booking. May be you mistake in color name or fabrication is wrong . Instead of 90/10 cotton/elastane you received fabric in 100% cotton . This is due to you worked in an old work order sheet where fabric was booked in 100% cotton & in the new sheet fabrication was not changed . The mistake is very little but outcome is devastating . To save time you did not give a cross check on the sheet & now all of your production schedule has gone to drain . This is really measurable when you will see your fabric is in-housed but cannot meet delivery date . Now again book the fabric newly & shipped the goods by air due to you missed delivery date . Actually this would not happen if you are careful & taking extra time give revision twice or triple . If you can take help from your colleague to see the booking as second party . This will help you to avoid extra hassle & to utilize your time properly . Here you can keep some key for cross check . cross check means the figure that should be off course changed in new booking . For fabric booking check the below

Fabric composition .

Fabric construction .

Fabric color .

Fabric width .

Finally Fabric Qty .

4) Don’t miss any mail: A single mail can change total output . If you are not properly look into your mail & work through of it you may miss some important information . So read your every single mail & share the mail with all the relevant party . Don’t keep it in your box only . If you have some mail that you should give answer please keep it in red mark so that it will not go out of your track . 5) Don’t do a task twice: This is actually relevant to point no 3 . Take extra time to do anything but don’t think you will do it twice or 2nd time you will get the opportunity to do it again . Suppose you are in great rush hour to submit sample, giving mail repeatedly to factory to submit the sample in certain date along with lots of phone call . Finally received it but factory made mistake to follow earlier comments what buyer has given . That means the sample is rejected & is not ok to send buyer . Again the sample is made following the comments but it was late one week . So all your production plan got delayed because of not to submit the sample due date . Actually from beginning you could avoid all the delay & wrong thing . If you could take just extra 15 minutes to check the change that buyer want in the earlier comment or before stitching you could visit factory & check everything that sample is going in right way it would help you to save time & energy . Take extra minute to do anything . 5) Do extra work just one day: In your ‘to do list’ you got some task that has to be done by this week but you are engaged so much in some important meeting so could not able to work on weekly schedule . Now what can you do ? Use only one day to work extra hour in the week . Never think to do it every day . You can work extra hour at the last working day of a week so that the next day you can do relax & enjoy family . So a day for a week can be your extra hour to finish pending task . This will help you to minimize your work load .

6) Make a good relation with everyone to get job done early:

This is said that everyone is king in his own work place . May be the person is a lab in charge . As job routine he is bound to do what are all your requirement because owner assigned him to do job what merchandiser demand in related to lab issue . But this is also true he keeps schedule in his every day to do list as per queue . So you cannot ask for lab dip just in a day where as he has hundreds of lab making in the schedule . Here if you have good relation with the person it will be easy to get lab dip though you are not in the queue . So make a good relation to all the department even a person who is in a worker level . Never underestimate any one . Respect all to get respect from every one . 7) Utilize down time: Usually success comes from the time which is not usually counted by the commners . Because to do extra work there are no alternative way except utilizing down time . Down time means – the time what you are just doing nothing or doing one more job simultaneously . Suppose you are just stucked in the traffic jam which is very common in our city life . It is often seen people are just seating in the jam & trying to blame the system . But if you want to use your down time ,this can be an opportunity for you . Take journal or book & start reading . That means all of your time can be used properly . On the other hand you can use down time in different way . May be you are having lunch .This may take 15 minutes to finish . During your lunch time you can listen radio news in your mobile . This will help you to get up-date information about what is happening around you . your busy life will not stop you to be up-dated in a new day . 8) Keep proper tracking whatever your are doing: We are human being . So sometime this is not possible to keep everything in our memory . In the merchandising no one can you say everything is in tracking unless he follows some basic rules . The basic rules of keeping track is ‘put down notes’ in your excel sheet or note book . Make a excel sheet & put all your information whatever you receive every day . Put the date on the stuff what you receive from buyer & what you send to buyer . keep same information on the submitted items to avoid any kinds of confusion between you & buyer . Keep your sample / swatch in a place where anything may not be lost . Make sure to keep separately all your important items to be understood by everyone or to get it in your absence . You can follow below rules to keep tracking .

Put date on everything .

Up-date & review your excel sheet every day .

Keep hard copy of all your important mail . Because some time you may not be in net service when the information is required .

Put your excel saved in your draft mail to find the data available incase computer is got effected by the harmful virus .

Don’t forget to send a mail to any consignee whenever you are sending sample /swatch .

9) Keep all approval in hand : Don’t miss any of your approval that received from buyer . Suppose fabric quality , sample or trims whatever comments on submission please keep in proper way so that it will not loss . If you have several submission on particular item that sent to buyer make sure to keep date & comment for each submission . This will help you not to be haphazard among the all submission . 10) Don’t miss to put anything on mailing correspondence : Some time you may feel unnecessary to put things in the mail whatever discussion you did in phone or verbal communication with someone . In reality this is very important & never delay to put the content you discussed in a written document /mail to prove the conversation . Suppose a trim supplier confirmed you in a particular date to deliver the item over the phone . As you feel the commitment is definitely will be met so did not put the conversation in mail . But in the due date you get the supplier denied to deliver the item & ignored his commitment . So if you could keep the commitment in a written document it would be easier to hold him . Believe me this is most effective to make easy your job ,keeping things in mail . 11) Keep clean your desk : A merchandiser has to do hundreds of job in a day so this is quite natural if his desk gets occupied by lots of stuff like paper , swatch , trims etc. Every day new items come to you & your surrounding is seeming a little store of fabric , sample & with others thing . You feel over loaded as your desk is overloaded by working stuff . How can you clean your desk to make free from all kinds dizzy materials ? This is really challenging for you rather than your daily job . Some time we feel keeping things on desk is not a problem & this is actually to get the things in hand . Believe me if your boss or others want to see anything in your obscene from the desk they might be puzzled & confused what to take & what to not take . So use only 30 minutes to keep clean your desk & put all the stuff in particular folder so that anyone can find any important item . This will make your job easy . Remember ‘The true competition lies is not what we do, but how we do it’. 12) Take suggestion if you are in trouble : The universal truth is – two head is better than one head . That means if you are trying to do something counsel with other so that you can work more efficiently with less error . Never think you are the perfect one & no need to take suggestion from others . In other way this is called – cheer leader .Cheer leader is your boss , co-worker , friend so If you want to be in track & to do the correctly must discuss with fellow people. Definitely this will ease your job . 13) Filing & updating : A merchandiser means lots of file & documents, so maintaining file for the each order & keeping the necessary stuff is very important . Actually this is little similar to the point ‘Keep clean your desk’. However this is specifically to put the thing in file properly . How your file will look ? where to keep it ? what name can be given to each file ? there are lots of issue that should have to take in consideration if are really interested to be a smarter merchandiser . To do your task in smart way you need to think about your file . Suppose where to keep it ? always try to keep your important file close to your hand so that you might not be haphazardly looking for your file when you need . Here some suggestion how to keep file –

Put a name for your file in bold letter .

Put all the information on top of the file ,example – style name , PO no , Qty , & a garment sketch .

Your file should be clean & need to keep all the paper in a chronological way .

For easy understanding you can use divider to keep separate the subject matter .

Use folder to keep different submission ,off course don’t forget to write date .

Use metal cliff so that the file can be use for long time .

If you receive revised PO please make sure to keep it in file & keep a cross mark on old PO .

Never remove any paper from your file ,if Pos are revised keep date on old file & write on top of it why this is changed . 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

What is Aerospace Textile | Application of Aerospace Textiles

An Overview of Aerospace Textile

Atikur Rahman Sabuj Marketing Executive at Ningbo Cixing Co.Ltd. B.Sc in Textile Engineering Primeasia University, Dhaka, Bangladesh E-mail: [email protected]

Technical Textiles: The technical textiles are defined as textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance and functional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. Categories of Technical Textile: Depending on the product characteristics, functional requirements and end-use applications the highly diversified range of technical textile products has been grouped into categories:

Agro Textiles (Agriculture, horticulture and forestry)

Building Textiles (Building and construction)

Clothing Textiles (Components of shoes and clothing)

Geo Textiles (Geo Textiles, Civil engineering)

Home Textiles (Components of furniture, household textiles)

Industrial Textiles (Filtration, cleaning and industrial)

Medical Textiles (Hygiene and medical)

Mobile Textiles (Automobiles, shipping, railways)

Oeko Textiles (Environmental protection)

Packaging Textiles (Packing materials)

Protection Textiles (Personal and property protection)

Sports Textiles (Sport and leisure)

Aerospace Textiles (aircraft and space textiles)

What is Aerospace? Aerospace comprises the atmosphere of Earth and surrounding space. Aerospace is actually a compression of

Aeronautics (the science of flight within Earth's atmosphere) and

Space flight (the movement of a vehicle beyond the atmosphere).

Aerospace embraces the full spectrum of flight, and the aerospace industry manufactures the components and equipment for things that fly. Aerospace Textiles: From pilot clothing to plane, textile would be anywhere in aircraft. Aerospace textile is an area of technical textiles that covers special finished products to engineered textiles. It includes the textile containing articles for specific functional requirements to work in aircrafts, space suits, space shuttles, lunar and mars mission, and space transportation. Raw Material for Aero Textile: Carbon fibre: It is the material consisting of extremely thin fibres about 0.0002 - 0.0004'' in diameter and contains mostly carbon atoms as it is produced as the by-product during the cracking process of crude oil.

It is also called as graphite fibre.

Excellent tensile strength.

Heat resistance.

Chemical resistance.

Keeping in the view of these properties, these fibres are used as reinforcing moulds, and heat insulating materials. Apart from this, these fibres are used as raw materials for the manufacture and design of special utility components of aviation machine, space rockets, Kevlar fibers: Kevlar is the trade name for Aramid fibres. They are

Heat resistant

High strength and modulus.

Good resistance to abrasion.

Good fabric integrity even at elevated temperatures.

Corrosion resistance.

Malleability.

Kevlar fibres are known for the ability to provide quality and consistency, which are critical for aerospace applications. Kevlar fabrics are used in containment wraps, which perform the important role in preventing the broken engine blades from damaging the aircraft or entering the compartment of the passengers. Alumina-boria-silica fibres: Nextel is the trade name for Alumina-boria silica fibers.

Retain strength.

Flexibility with little shrinkage even at continuous temperatures up to 2012°F (1100°C).

Silicon carbide fibre.

These fibres are similar to carbon fibres.

Heat resistance.

Corrosion resistance.

Elasticity.

Withstand temperature as high as 1500 degree Celsius.

Nylon fiber: Nylon 6,6 is made of hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid, which give nylon 6,6 a total of 2 carbons. Heat resistance.

Friction resistance.

Melting point of 256 degree celsius.

E- Glass: E- Glass or electrical grade was originally developed for stand-off insulators for electrical wiring. It was later found to have excellent fiber forming capabilities and is used almost exclusively as the reinforcing phase in the material commonly known as fibre glass or glass fiber. The essential properties of textile composites in aerospace applications are:

High specific modulus.

High specific strength.

Resistant to chemicals and organic solvents.

Good fatigue.

Thermal insulated and thermal resistant.

Impact and stress resistant.

Better dimensional stability and conformability.

Low flammability.

Non-sensitive to harmful radiations .

Other Properties Required for Aerospace Textiles It is also need to consider incorporating maintainability requirements into aerospace materials. Some of the properties desirable from maintainability point of view are;

Washable.

Abrasion resistance.

Tear resistance.

Moisture resistance.

UV stabilization.

Material standardization.

Based on the applications, textiles used in Aerospace are broadly divided into,

Aircraft Textiles.

Space Textiles.

The textile articles being used in aircrafts are mainly for the below purposes.

Wings, Body parts.

Curtains.

Upholstery fabrics.

Wall covers.

Head set.

Floor carpet/covering.

Seat covers.

Application of Aerospace Textiles: Evacuation slides:

Evacuation slides

Airplane Interiors:

Airplane Interiors

Aircraft seat belt:

Aircraft seat belt

Aircraft seat cover:

Aircraft seat cover

Aircraft Floor Covering:

Aircraft Floor Covering

Uniform of Pilot:

Uniform of Pilot

Space suit costume:

Space suit costume

Air Bag:

Air Bag

Pilot parachutes:

Pilot parachutes

AeroFlate™ inflateable boat fabric:

AeroFlate™ inflateable boat fabric

Life jacket in aircraft:

Life jacket in aircraft

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Air Jet Spinning System- Modern Yarn Production

Air Jet Spinning System- Modern Yarn Production

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

What is spinning?

The term ‘spinning’ may be defined as the process or processes used to produce either fibres or filaments from natural or synthetic polymers, or convert natural or man-made fibres (mmf) and filaments into yarns by twisting or other means of binding together the fibers or filaments. 

This provides a relatively fine continuous length of thread that has properties suitable for conversion into a fabric form or for use directly for sewing or rope making. The spinning processes employed to make fibres or filaments may be generally classed as polymer extrusion methods.

Air Jet Spinning:

Air-jet spinning is the latest in a string of technological developments intended to increase production speed and flexibility. This technique is also known as fasciated yarn spinning. Air-jet spinning system which consists of a 3-over-3 high-speed roller drafting unit, The basic jet design is also shown. This has a central cylindrical channel (the spinning channel) through which the fibre ribbon from the drafting unit passes. Inclined to the channel axis but tangential to its circumference are four nozzles through which compressed air is injected into the channel, creating a vortex airflow. 

Twist

Each jet of compressed air entering and expanding into the channel has two velocity components of airflow: V1, a circular motion of the air around the channel circumference, and V2, the movement of the air to the channel outlet. The suction at the jet inlet created by V2 gives automatic threading-up of the spinning process. Provided the drafted ribbon is not tautly held between the front drafting rollers and take-up rollers, the V1 component of flow rotates it, inducing a false-twisting action via a rotating standing waveform (a spinning balloon) while V2 assists movement of the twisted ribbon through the channel. 

Flowchart of Air Jet Spinning

The nozzles of the first jet are set to give a counter-clockwise vortex producing a Z–S false-twist action; the second jet gives an S–Z false-twist action. The pressures applied to the jets are such that jet 2 has the higher twisting vortex. Although the jets impart a false twist, while doing so they do not have a positive hold on the ribbon being twisted. Because of this the Stwist from jet 2 propagates along the twisted ribbon and nullifies the Z-twist from jet 1, leaving some S-twist to travel towards the nip line of the front roller.

Air Jet Spinning

 Operation Principle of Rieter Two- Nozzel Air-Jet Spinning:

As shown in a draw frame sliver fed from a can is passed to a drafting arrangement , where it is attenuated by a draft in the range of 100 - 200. The fiber strand delivered then proceeds to two air jets arranged directly after the drafting arrangement. The second jet is the actual false-twist element. 

Diagram of Air Jet Spinning

The air vortex generated in this jet, with an angular velocity of more than 2 million rpm, twists the strand as it passes through so that the strand rotates along a screw-thread path in the jet, achieving rotation speeds of about 250 000 rpm. The compressed air reaches the speed of sound when entering the central canal of the false-twist element. Since the axial forces are very low during this rotation, only low tensions arise in the yarn. 

Twist direction of Air Jet Spinning

The ability of the vortex to impart torque is so high that the turns of twist in the yarn run back to the drafting arrangement. The fiber strand is therefore accelerated practically to full rotation speed as soon as it leaves the front roller. 

The edge fibers which ultimately bind the yarn together by becoming wrapping fibers are in a minority. 

For process reasons, they do not exceed about 5% of the total yarn mass. These edge fibers exhibit relatively few turns of twist in the same direction as the falsetwisted core fibers or can even be slightly twisted in the opposite direction. This is partly ensured by causing the strand to emerge from the nip line in a broadly spread form, but mainly by generating in the first jet a vortex with an opposite direction of rotation to the vortex in the second jet. 

This first vortex is in fact weaker in intensity than the second and cannot really affect the core fibers, but can grasp the edge fibers projecting from the strand at one end. Since the first vortex acts against the twist direction generated by the second jet, it prevents the edge fibers from being twisted into the core or even twists them in the opposite direction around the core fibers. As the strand runs through the second jet, the following occurs.

The turns of twist generated by the jet are canceled in accordance with the falsetwist law. The core fibers, i.e. the vast majority, no longer exhibit any twist; these fibers are arranged in parallel. On the other hand, the edge fibers (which previously exhibited no twist, relatively little twist, or even twist in the opposite direction) receive twist in the direction imparted by the jet, as determined by the law of false twist; they are therefore wound around the parallel fiber strand. They bind the body of fibers together and ensure coherence. A twist diagram prepared by Dr. H. Stalder demonstrates this twisting procedure .

The resulting bundled staple-fiber yarn passes from the take-off rollers through a yarn-suction device and an electronic yarn clearer before being wound onto a cross-wound package. The two nozzle air-jet spinning system represents a very interesting process, which has already been introduced into practical operation with some success.

SPECIFICATION OF THE MJS MACHINE:

Spinning positions per machine .......up to 72 (SINGLE -sided machine)

Delivery speed ..........150 - 300 m/min

Raw material ............synthetic fibers and blends (combed cotton)

Count range .............7.5 - 30 tex; Ne 20 - 80

Feedstock type ........drawframe sliver

Type of yarn ............bundled single yarns

Yarn characteristics .......reasonable strength, low hairiness, rough outer surface

Field of use ........ladies‘ outerwear, shirting, material, sheets

Remarks ...........low production costs, low personnel demand, no rapidly rotating parts, three drawframe passages necessary

YARN CHARACTERISTICS OF AIR-JET SPIN YARN

The yarn character is slightly different from that of ring spun yarn. It is somewhat:

weaker,

stiffer, and

harder.

The hardness can be reduced by using finer fibers and by treatment of the finished product with a softener (e.g. with a silicone). Additional points of comparison with ring-spun yarn are: Positive:

Good evenness (like ring-spun yarn);

Good abrasion resistance;

Low tendency to pilling;

Low snarling tendency;

Shrinkage similar to that of ring-spun yarn;

Negative:

Higher resistance to bending;

Slightly lower covering power;

Wrapping fibers not uniformly distributed over the length; sometimes there are slightly more on the surface, sometimes slightly fewer.

A large number of wrapping turns impart more strength but at the same time greater hardness. Synthetic fiber yarns and blends of synthetic fibers and cotton with a proportion of synthetic fibers of at least 50% achieve strength levels of about 80% or more relative to ring-spun yarn. 

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Air Jet Spinning System- Modern Yarn Production

Air Jet Spinning System- Modern Yarn Production

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

What is spinning?

The term ‘spinning’ may be defined as the process or processes used to produce either fibres or filaments from natural or synthetic polymers, or convert natural or man-made fibres (mmf) and filaments into yarns by twisting or other means of binding together the fibers or filaments. 

This provides a relatively fine continuous length of thread that has properties suitable for conversion into a fabric form or for use directly for sewing or rope making. The spinning processes employed to make fibres or filaments may be generally classed as polymer extrusion methods.

Air Jet Spinning:

Air-jet spinning is the latest in a string of technological developments intended to increase production speed and flexibility. This technique is also known as fasciated yarn spinning. Air-jet spinning system which consists of a 3-over-3 high-speed roller drafting unit, The basic jet design is also shown. This has a central cylindrical channel (the spinning channel) through which the fibre ribbon from the drafting unit passes. Inclined to the channel axis but tangential to its circumference are four nozzles through which compressed air is injected into the channel, creating a vortex airflow. 

Twist

Each jet of compressed air entering and expanding into the channel has two velocity components of airflow: V1, a circular motion of the air around the channel circumference, and V2, the movement of the air to the channel outlet. The suction at the jet inlet created by V2 gives automatic threading-up of the spinning process. Provided the drafted ribbon is not tautly held between the front drafting rollers and take-up rollers, the V1 component of flow rotates it, inducing a false-twisting action via a rotating standing waveform (a spinning balloon) while V2 assists movement of the twisted ribbon through the channel. 

Flowchart of Air Jet Spinning

The nozzles of the first jet are set to give a counter-clockwise vortex producing a Z–S false-twist action; the second jet gives an S–Z false-twist action. The pressures applied to the jets are such that jet 2 has the higher twisting vortex. Although the jets impart a false twist, while doing so they do not have a positive hold on the ribbon being twisted. Because of this the Stwist from jet 2 propagates along the twisted ribbon and nullifies the Z-twist from jet 1, leaving some S-twist to travel towards the nip line of the front roller.

Air Jet Spinning

 Operation Principle of Rieter Two- Nozzel Air-Jet Spinning:

As shown in a draw frame sliver fed from a can is passed to a drafting arrangement , where it is attenuated by a draft in the range of 100 - 200. The fiber strand delivered then proceeds to two air jets arranged directly after the drafting arrangement. The second jet is the actual false-twist element. 

Diagram of Air Jet Spinning

The air vortex generated in this jet, with an angular velocity of more than 2 million rpm, twists the strand as it passes through so that the strand rotates along a screw-thread path in the jet, achieving rotation speeds of about 250 000 rpm. The compressed air reaches the speed of sound when entering the central canal of the false-twist element. Since the axial forces are very low during this rotation, only low tensions arise in the yarn. 

Twist direction of Air Jet Spinning

The ability of the vortex to impart torque is so high that the turns of twist in the yarn run back to the drafting arrangement. The fiber strand is therefore accelerated practically to full rotation speed as soon as it leaves the front roller. 

The edge fibers which ultimately bind the yarn together by becoming wrapping fibers are in a minority. 

For process reasons, they do not exceed about 5% of the total yarn mass. These edge fibers exhibit relatively few turns of twist in the same direction as the falsetwisted core fibers or can even be slightly twisted in the opposite direction. This is partly ensured by causing the strand to emerge from the nip line in a broadly spread form, but mainly by generating in the first jet a vortex with an opposite direction of rotation to the vortex in the second jet. 

This first vortex is in fact weaker in intensity than the second and cannot really affect the core fibers, but can grasp the edge fibers projecting from the strand at one end. Since the first vortex acts against the twist direction generated by the second jet, it prevents the edge fibers from being twisted into the core or even twists them in the opposite direction around the core fibers. As the strand runs through the second jet, the following occurs.

The turns of twist generated by the jet are canceled in accordance with the falsetwist law. The core fibers, i.e. the vast majority, no longer exhibit any twist; these fibers are arranged in parallel. On the other hand, the edge fibers (which previously exhibited no twist, relatively little twist, or even twist in the opposite direction) receive twist in the direction imparted by the jet, as determined by the law of false twist; they are therefore wound around the parallel fiber strand. They bind the body of fibers together and ensure coherence. A twist diagram prepared by Dr. H. Stalder demonstrates this twisting procedure .

The resulting bundled staple-fiber yarn passes from the take-off rollers through a yarn-suction device and an electronic yarn clearer before being wound onto a cross-wound package. The two nozzle air-jet spinning system represents a very interesting process, which has already been introduced into practical operation with some success.

SPECIFICATION OF THE MJS MACHINE:

Spinning positions per machine .......up to 72 (SINGLE -sided machine)

Delivery speed ..........150 - 300 m/min

Raw material ............synthetic fibers and blends (combed cotton)

Count range .............7.5 - 30 tex; Ne 20 - 80

Feedstock type ........drawframe sliver

Type of yarn ............bundled single yarns

Yarn characteristics .......reasonable strength, low hairiness, rough outer surface

Field of use ........ladies‘ outerwear, shirting, material, sheets

Remarks ...........low production costs, low personnel demand, no rapidly rotating parts, three drawframe passages necessary

YARN CHARACTERISTICS OF AIR-JET SPIN YARN

The yarn character is slightly different from that of ring spun yarn. It is somewhat:

weaker,

stiffer, and

harder.

The hardness can be reduced by using finer fibers and by treatment of the finished product with a softener (e.g. with a silicone). Additional points of comparison with ring-spun yarn are: Positive:

Good evenness (like ring-spun yarn);

Good abrasion resistance;

Low tendency to pilling;

Low snarling tendency;

Shrinkage similar to that of ring-spun yarn;

Negative:

Higher resistance to bending;

Slightly lower covering power;

Wrapping fibers not uniformly distributed over the length; sometimes there are slightly more on the surface, sometimes slightly fewer.

A large number of wrapping turns impart more strength but at the same time greater hardness. Synthetic fiber yarns and blends of synthetic fibers and cotton with a proportion of synthetic fibers of at least 50% achieve strength levels of about 80% or more relative to ring-spun yarn. 

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An Overview of Yarn Clearer

An Overview of Yarn Clearer

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

Yarn Clearer Yarn clearer is the device which is used to remove the following faults of yarn in order to increase the yarn quality and weaving efficiency. Wilson Yarn Clearer

The Wilson Yarn Clearer is yarn clearer i.e. a device to remove faults from yarn. 

The occurrence of many slubs (thick place in yarn) in the yarn was well known to the weavers in the Hollins factory in Glasgow for they knew that much labor had to be spent after the weaving on “burling and mending” of the fabric in order to remove as many faults as possible. But in the spinning mill at Pleasley Vale yarn clearing was regarded as an undesirable and costly process. 

The yarn production people in Pleasley believed that their slub catchers were effective - it was obvious to them that a slub up to an eighth in diameter could not pass through a slot only 10 thousandths of an inch wide. They never saw the evidence of their erroneous belief since they did not see the woven fabric with the many slubs that had passed through their yarn cleaners. 

Peter Wilson realized that the true cost of the defective yarn clearing which was currently being practiced warranted the development of a better yarn clearer even if it cost as much as £5. The factory management, used to spending only a shilling or two on their yarn clearers held up their hands in horror at the thought of such an expense. There was some justification from their own narrow cost standpoint, but on an overall company view it was good business. 

Wilson Yarn Clearer

Thomas Holt and Co, a Rochdale cone winding engine maker, agreed to promote the Wilson Yarn Clearer commercially and a production prototype was made and taken to Erricson Telephone Ltd (ETL) who agreed manufacture the device. Their unit price of £13 for an initial run of 2000 was achieved by using printed circuitry that was then in its infancy and initial order was placed for 2000 units.

In September 1958, Thomas Holt showed the Wilson Yarn Clearer at the International Textile Exhibition in Belle Vue, Manchester as the “Yarnspec”, which was believed to be the World’s first commercially viable yarn clearer. 

By about 1959 Thomas Holt had sold some 12 000 units but Thorn Bendix, a subsidiary of ETL dealing with textile applications, began production of a transistorized version which included some 12 or more transistors and superseded the much bulkier Yarnspec. A few years later sales of £400 000 p.a. were being achieved by Thorn Bendix and the era of electronic yarn clearing was well and truly born.

Faults of yarn

Thick and thin places

Slab and neps

Loose fabric

Foreign material

Types of Yarn Clearer

Mechanical Type

Electronic type

Mechanical Type

Conventional blunt type

Serrated blade type

Electronic type Electronic yarn Clearers ensures excellent clearing to be obtained with minimum mechanical stress on the yarn. The places, not possible with the mechanical system are an additional feature of the electronic system. The tamper-proof central adjustment for several spindles leads to a significant saving of time. Electronic Yarn Clearer Model Myc-2 Mill requirement of yarn clearing controls have been developed for various stages in spinning process to improve the quality of the end product, i. E. Yarn. For this we have piano type autoleveller at blow-room, giving more uniform lap, autolevellers at carding and drawframes to give more uniform sliver etc. But even with all these controls it is not possible to get 100% uniform yarn. The present concept of the yarn depends upon various parameters like count, twist, strength, evenness and nepiness. The definition of the quality yarn is incomplete until the yarn faults are taken into consideration and eliminated. Capacitance type Zellweger Uster completely re-invented the yarn clearer with its Quantum clearer. This new clearer is digital, has capacitive and optical sensing capability and gives yarn fault classification according to the Uster Classimate concept. The Uster Quantum clearer can be used in several different modes including: capacitive or optical sensing, capacitive and foreign matter sensing or capacitive and optical combined. Quantum has 100-percent digital electronics, self-calibrating measuring heads, and on-board diagnostics. Photo electric type Seletex is a photoelectric yarn clearer which detact and removes various yarn faults in spinning or silk yarn in re-winding process. Photoelectric detector many material , moisture yarn, electric conductors and others. Comparison between mechanical and electronic clearer:

Electronic clearer are more sensitive than mechanical clearers

In case of mechanical clearers there is abrasion between yarn and clearer parts but in case of electronic clearers there is no such abrasion

Mechanical clearers do not prevent soft slab from escaping through clearer where as electronic type does not allow passing of any types of faults

Mechanical type does not break the thin places and the length of the fault is not considered

Mechanical clearer are simple and easy to maintain while the electronic clearers are costly and requires high standard of maintenance

USTER QUANTUM 3 USTER QUANTUM 3 is the third generation of the best-selling online quality assurance system for winding machines. These state-of-the-art yarn clearers use Smart Clearing Technology to optimize production efficiency and reduce costs for spinners.

USTER QUANTUM 3

LIST OF MANUFACTURERS AND SUPPLIERS OF YARN CLEARERS

The Jenntex Engineering Company

KVR Intexx

Industrial Electronic Corporation

R L Creations

Samosaran Yarns Pvt.Ltd.

Paras Engineering Co

Chiranjilal Spinners

Kirti Polytex Pvt Ltd

Xinghua City Guoan Electronics Co., Ltd.

SILVER SPRING SPINNERS INDIA PVT LTD

STI India Ltd.

Danube Fashions Limited (Member - Technocraft Group) Wuhan Zhongbai Group Co., Ltd. 

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Factors Affecting the Moisture Regain of Textile Materials

Factors Affecting the Moisture Regain of Textile Materials

Rana Sohel B.Sc. in Wet Processing Noakhali Textile Engineering College Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/rana.sohel.5

 Moisture Regain: Moisture regain of a textile fiber is defined as: The equilibrium weight of water contained by a specimen expressed as a percentage of its oven-dry weight. That is,

R=100(Ws-Wd)/Wd %

Factors Affecting the Regain of Textile Fiber: Different fiber types absorb different amounts of moisture depending on their affinity for water as shown in Fig. There are different factors that effect the moisture regain of the textile materials, such as;

Relative Humidity

Time

Temperature

The Previous History of The Sample

Relative Humidity: Relative humidity is the most important factor that affects the regain of textile materials. The higher the relative humidity of the atmosphere, the higher is the regain of textile material which is exposed to it. If the relative humidity in the air is more then there will be more moisture regain or more rate of conditioning of textile materials and vice versa.   

 Time: Material that is in equilibrium at a particular relative humidity which is then moved to an atmosphere with a different relative humidity takes a certain amount of time to reach a new equilibrium. The time taken depends on the physical form of the material and how easily the moisture can reach or escape from the individual fibres. For example the British Standard for count testing suggests a period of one hour for yarn in hank form to reach equilibrium, but three hours for yarn on packages. A material placed in a given atmosphere takes a certain time to reach equilibrium. The rate of conditioning depends on several factors, such as;

The size and form of sample

The type of material

External conditions

Temperature: The effect of temperature on regain is not important. A change of 10 0C will give a change in regain of cotton of about 0.3 percent. This effect can be ignored. Now we can say that for practical purposes the temperature does not affect the regain of a sample. The previous history of the sample:

The previous history of the sample can affect the equilibrium regain of the sample. The hysteresis is a good example. Processing can also change the regain. When oils, waxes and other impurities are removed then regain may change.  

 From the below fig we can learn, Different moisture content depending on whether it was previously wet or dry. Processing of the material can also change its regain value by altering its ability to absorb moisture. The removal of oils, waxes and other impurities can also change the regain by removing a barrier on the fibre surface to the flow of moisture vapour. For example the standard regain value for scoured wool is 16% and that for oil combed tops is 19%.

A plot of regain versus relative humidity for viscose fibers

A comparison of the moisture uptake of fibers

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Features and Characteristics of Armed Forces Textiles

History and Features of Armed Forces Textiles

Md.Tanvirul Haque Bhuiyan Dept. of Apparel Manufacturing, National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research (NITER), Savar, Dhaka. Email : [email protected] Facebook : Tanvirul Haque Mukut

Introduction: Textiles for military uniforms face a complex set of challenges. They must provide protection, durability and comfort in a wide range of hostile environments. In this assignment we will discuss the history of military textile, the range of recent research on how military clothing can best meet soldier’s needs. The general requirements of military textiles are damage resistance, comfort, sweat management, cold-weather conditions and the integration of high-tech materials into uniforms. We will also discuss the protective role of military textiles, high-performance ballistic fibres, textiles for chemical and biological protection, camouflage materials and military fabrics for flame protection. History of Military Textile: Ancient time: Humans have used forms of protective armor in combat for at least five millennia. At first animal skins and furs were the only protection both in combat and in cold weather. Tall headwear made from animal furs(bearskin caps), feather(ostrich) or carrying tall plumes to increase apparent height of troops . The materials used were all of natural origin like as, wool,cotton, silk, flax, horsehair, furs from bears, seals, tigers, leopards etc. feather from birds such as chickens, pecock and ostrich. Ancient civilizations used leather as a form of protection beginning in roughly 3000 BC. The use of leather has continued as a means of various types of body protection. Some 700 years later, ancient cultures such as those in Egypt learned to alter leather by boiling and tanning it. Leather was very effective in warding off blows from bludgeoning weapons and can be found serving this role in some cultures and subcultures up to the present day. The first fabricated weapons of note in warfare were swords and spears, so more advanced armor was at first designed specifically to address these threats. The Egyptians were using armor to protect from slashing and cutting weapons as early as 1500 BC. The first forms of armor were probably cloth garments with bronze scales or plates sewn mounted on them. The Syrians apparently developed lamellar armor between 900 and 600 BCby mounting small rectangular plates upon a garment in parallel rows. Later, the Greeks made armor from bronze plates that not only fitted over the individual parts of the body, but were shaped to fi t over the part of the body where it would be carried. Chain mail seems to have been invented by the Celts in Europe, but it was quickly adopted by the Romans and many subsequent civilizations. 14th to 16thcentury: As early as the 14th century, armor was given a proof rating which guaranteed its protective qualities against weapons of the time.With the advancement of firearms, armor had to withstand and absorb impact from large caliber projectiles. The weight of armor increased up to about 50 kg, which was a burden on the wearer. The leather garment originally created to be worn under armor was used alone, because it gave the wearer mobility. A debate began then about what was more important, optimum protection or comfort and mobility. 17th to 19th century: During all of the armor developments of the ancient and medieval cultures,the greatest threats to soldiers and their armor were the ballistic weapons. Of these, the bow and the crossbow first posed the most dangerous challenges to survival on the battlefield.Eventually, armor became thick and heavy enough by using layers of leather and metal to with standmost hits by even longbows or crossbows, so a further development in lethality was needed. This step came in the form of the gun. 20th century: In this century scientific experiments were done to make perfect military textile. Scientist were concerned about the material, color, fabric construction, comfort, effectiveness and quality of military textiles. The British forces adopted khaki colored cotton made uniforms in 1902. This cotton uniform gave insufficient protection from different climate. So, wool worsted twill fabric uniforms were used afterwards. All non-clothing materials, like- tents, covers, nets, load carriage items, sleeping systems made from natural fibres (wool, cotton, flax, jute, hemp, sisal). In 1930, the new fibre ‘Nylon’ was used for light strong parachute canopies and the development of Ventile cotton fabric (water proof but water vapour permeable fabric) for aircrew survival clothing.The British Royal Air Force and the US Army Air Corps created and issued protective vests to flight personnel beginning early in the Second World War. These early ballistic resistant armors were known as ‘flak’ jackets because German Anti-Aircraft Artillery was known as FLAK (Fliegerabwehrkanonen). Thus, flak jackets are ballistic-resistant garments intended solely for the purpose of defending a body from shrapnel, or explosion fragments, and not from bullets. These first flak vests contained steel plates carried in multiple plies of nylon fabric that protected against relatively low velocity shrapnel. ‘Denison smock’ is a fabric which was used for military purpose. It was lightweight windproof cotton gabardine fabric and bearing camouflage in 1941 (UK). In 1944, a sand colour vehicle cover was introduced for desert warfare. USA introduced the layered combat clothing concept in 1943. In 1970, the olive green 100% cotton satin drill fabric was invented. The 1st four color printed combat material was introduced in 1972 in UK. Features of Armed Forces Textiles:

Light weight fire retardant fabric is necessary for the clothing of the Naval and Armed forces personnel. Especially for the person engaged in engineering works and working in the heated condition. 

Moreover military clothing should be capable to protect them from cold and should have buoyant properly. 

Some clothing of such property is manufactured on commercial basis. Candadian forces are using such type of clothing. These types of clothing are made of Nomex fiber. 

Head hoods and hand gloves made of Kevlar fiber are used by the Newzeland naval forces. Beside those clothing, different type of flame retardant clothing are manufactured and used by the naval and armed forces. 

NASA (National Aeronautic Space Authority) has prescribed clothing of special property to protect the soldiers from the critical environment during warfare. 

As such clothing, cotton fabric has been considered as the best because of comfortability, electrical resistiivity and skin sensitivity. Chemically treated cotton fabrics are used for the manufacture of such clothing. Two ply fabrics are used for the clothing. The chemically treated cotton fabric plies are 244 grams per square yard mercerized knitted single jersey fabrics. 

These fabrics are flame retardant finished with THPOH/NH3 and DAP/Urea in two steps. As a result, these type clothing shows better flame retardancy and burning retardancy properly, this is approved by NASA. 

Blanket made for the soldiers is made of two ply fabric made from glass fibre and in between two ply fabric. 

Fibrous silica is used. Beside those, as heat resistant clothing needle felt nomexfibre, ceramic and graphite fibre woven fabric. Silicon rubber coated fabrics also used on this.

Future requirements of soldiers:

Future requirements of soldiers

Characteristics of military textile:

The requirement should be such that there should not be “thread breaks” up to 50,000 abrasion cycles when tested as per IS: 12673:1989. 

Air permeability of the fabric shall be at least 5cc/sec/cm2 when tested according to IS 11056:1984. 

Water vapor permeability (watermethod)Shall be 1400g/m2/day (Minimum) when tested according to ASTME-96. 

The use of either FR(fire resistent) fibers or FR coating should also be included in the present specification to meet surface ignition test when tested as per ISO 15025 (no hole formation, no melting and no dripping).

Therefore It is recommended that the WR(wrinkle recovery) rating (after 24 hours) of the combat shall be minimum 4 when tested according to AATCC 128-2004.

Protective materials: All ballistic resistant materials have certain common characteristics. The use of polymer materials has made the protection to weight ratio very favorable for their use over metals or ceramics. Lower weight also permits greater mobility and better capability for police or military personnel to perform their assignments with reduced threats from attackers. In addition to the desired characteristic of low weight, there are also important demands for flexibility and thermal transport. Stiff, inflexible ballistic garments inhibit performance even at low weight. Garments or materials that trap body heat and moisture are unpleasant for intended wearers and are cited as one of the main reasons such garments are not worn in the line of duty. The materials that are used now a days for making military dresses, are-

Polyester

Cotton

High Tenacity Polyester

Kevlar®

Coolmax®

Meta Aramid®

Lycra

Nomex®

Here Kevlar®, Coolmax®, Meta Aramid®,Nomex®these three are registered man madefibre. Kevlar®: Kevleris the registered trademark for a para-aramid synthetic fiber. Developed by Stephanie Kwolek at DuPont in 1965, this high-strength material was first commercially used in the early 1970s as a replacement for steel in racing tires. Typically it is spun into ropes or fabric sheets that can be used as such or as an ingredient in composite material components.

The reaction of 1,4-phenylene-diamine (para-phenylenediamine) with terephthaloyl chloride yielding kevlar.

Kevler

Coolmax®: Coolmax, a trademark of Invista, is a brand name for a series of moisture-wicking technical fabrics developed in 1986 by DuPont Textiles and Interiors (now Invista). The fabrics employ specially-engineered polyester fibres to improve "breathability" compared to natural fibres like cotton. 'Wick away' or 'wickaway' is a general term used for fabrics that are engineered to draw moisture away from the skin through capillary action and increased evaporation over a wider surface area.

Coolmax

Nomex®: Nomex is a registered trademark for flame-resistantmeta-aramid material developed in the early 1960s by DuPont and first marketed in 1967.

Nomex

Construction of fabrics are –

3D XD - Spacer fabrics

4D XD – Spacer fabrics

Meshes

Nets

Plain fabrics

Treatments for these fabrics are –

Camouflage printing

IRR Finish

Flame Retardant Treatment

Antibacterial finish

High Visibility Dyeing

Silver treatment

Dyeing to customer's own shades

NATO color range

Protective gloves and shoes:

Protective gloves and shoes

Global market scenario: Armed forces textile is a part of technical textile. Protection and military application of smart textiles is expected to remain the largest market segment over the next six years.

In advanced countries more than 40% of total textile manufacturing activity involves technical textiles.

China has devoted around 20% of its textile production in this field.

Asia is emerging as power house of both production and end-use consumption of technical textiles.

Asia Pacific is expected to be the fastest growing regional market, with an estimated CAGR of 25.2% from 2013 to 2020.

Reference :

Advances in military textiles and personal equipment Edited by E. Sparks

http://en.wikipedia.org

http://www.textiletoday.com.bd

Military textiles by Eugene Wilusz

http://www.baltex.co.uk 

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An Overview of Winding Machine

An Overview of Winding Machine

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

Winding: Winding is one of the most important operation, which is mainly occurred in spinning section. Besides, it is also important in fabric manufacturing. In fabric manufacturing, directly winding is not so much important, but rewinding is so important. The creation of large yarn packages that can be easily unwound, is called winding. This makes using the yarn on subsequent machines both easier and more economical.

Winding Section

After warping, some packages contain just a few grams of yarn which is unsuitable for the efficiency of further processing, such as warping, twisting, and quelling. This necessitates the preparation of a dense and uniform yarn package of sufficiently large size from unsuitable packages which can unwind in the subsequent operations without interruptions, is called rewinding.The yarn unwound from the package passes through yarn tensioned and control systems, and with the help of a grooved cylinder, is wound evenly around the package; the yarn enters the recess in the cylinder, thus the rotary movement of the cylinder corresponds to the translation of the yarn.Winding machines currently have independent heads with individually adjustable motors. A modern winding machine can process yarns ranging from a count of Ne 2 to finer ones, at a winding speed of 400 to 2000 m/min. Winding is more than just transferring yarn from one package to another. Further functions of winding are to check the yarn and to eliminate any faults found. A basic diagram of winding m/c:

A basic diagram of winding m/c

Auxiliary functions of a winding machine

Creeling: Creeling is the removing of empty package and placement of the full package, in the feed region of the machine, ready to be unwound as part of the transfer process.

Piecing: Piecing is the process of finding the ends of the packages and connecting them

Doffing: Doffing is the process of removing the full package and placement of the empty package, in the delivery region of the machine, ready to receive yarn as part of the transfer process.

Methods of Driving in a Winding machines

Surface contact driving

Direct package driving at constant speed

Direct package driving at variable speed

Surface contact driving In this process the groove drum is rotated by the motor. The drum is in contact with the package so as the drum rotates the package also rotates. The grooves in the drum provide the traversing motion for the yarn. Here the winding rate stays constant as package diameter increases.

Surface contact driving

Direct package driving at constant speed In this system the yarn package is placed in a spindle and the spindle is rotated with the motor. Therefore the package gets motion directly from motor. The package gets angular motion and the yarn take up rate is directly proportional to package diameter.

Direct package driving at constant speed

Direct package driving at variable speed In this system the yarn package is placed in a spindle and the spindle is rotated with the motor. Therefore the package gets motion directly from motor. Here the rotational speed of package is varied inversely to package diameter to keep winding speed constant.

Direct package driving at variable speed

Traverse method Reciprocating yarn guide

Reciprocating yarn guide

Reciprocating yarn guide passage

Reciprocating yarn guide passage

Grooved Drum

Grooved Drum

Precision Winding By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of yarn stored in a given volume. Features

Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse

Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages

Package contains more yarn

Package is less stable

The package is hard and compact

The package is dense

Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard

The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner

Non Precision Winding By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable. Features

Only one coil is used to make this packages

Cross winding technique is used

The package density is low

Minimum number of yarn is wound

The package formed is soft and less compact

The stability is high

Flanges are not required

The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy

The packages formed have low density

Winding Efficiency: Winding Efficiency: [Actual production / Calculated production] * 100%

Efficiency Loss: [(Calculated production - Actual production) / Calculated production] * 100% Winding efficiency depends on the following factors:

Spindle or drum speed: The higher the speed the more is the winding efficiency

Yarn Count: Yarn count is proportional to winding efficiency

Yarn quality: If yarn quality increases then winding efficiency increases

Worker efficiency: The more efficient the work is the more efficient the winding will be.

Humidity: Humidity is reciprocal or inversely proportional to winding efficiency.

Work load per worker: If the work load on each worker is less then efficiency of winding will be more.

Maintenance and over hauling: If the maintenance and over hauling of the machine is not correct then efficiency of winding will decrease.

Power failure: If power failure rate increases the winding efficiency will decrease.

Creeling time: The more the creeling time the less is the efficiency.

Doffing time: The more the doffing time the less is the efficiency.

Capacity utilization: When capacity utilization decreases then efficiency increases. 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

An Overview of Winding Machine

An Overview of Winding Machine

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

Winding: Winding is one of the most important operation, which is mainly occurred in spinning section. Besides, it is also important in fabric manufacturing. In fabric manufacturing, directly winding is not so much important, but rewinding is so important. The creation of large yarn packages that can be easily unwound, is called winding. This makes using the yarn on subsequent machines both easier and more economical.

Winding Section

After warping, some packages contain just a few grams of yarn which is unsuitable for the efficiency of further processing, such as warping, twisting, and quelling. This necessitates the preparation of a dense and uniform yarn package of sufficiently large size from unsuitable packages which can unwind in the subsequent operations without interruptions, is called rewinding.The yarn unwound from the package passes through yarn tensioned and control systems, and with the help of a grooved cylinder, is wound evenly around the package; the yarn enters the recess in the cylinder, thus the rotary movement of the cylinder corresponds to the translation of the yarn.Winding machines currently have independent heads with individually adjustable motors. A modern winding machine can process yarns ranging from a count of Ne 2 to finer ones, at a winding speed of 400 to 2000 m/min. Winding is more than just transferring yarn from one package to another. Further functions of winding are to check the yarn and to eliminate any faults found. A basic diagram of winding m/c:

A basic diagram of winding m/c

Auxiliary functions of a winding machine

Creeling: Creeling is the removing of empty package and placement of the full package, in the feed region of the machine, ready to be unwound as part of the transfer process.

Piecing: Piecing is the process of finding the ends of the packages and connecting them

Doffing: Doffing is the process of removing the full package and placement of the empty package, in the delivery region of the machine, ready to receive yarn as part of the transfer process.

Methods of Driving in a Winding machines

Surface contact driving

Direct package driving at constant speed

Direct package driving at variable speed

Surface contact driving In this process the groove drum is rotated by the motor. The drum is in contact with the package so as the drum rotates the package also rotates. The grooves in the drum provide the traversing motion for the yarn. Here the winding rate stays constant as package diameter increases.

Surface contact driving

Direct package driving at constant speed In this system the yarn package is placed in a spindle and the spindle is rotated with the motor. Therefore the package gets motion directly from motor. The package gets angular motion and the yarn take up rate is directly proportional to package diameter.

Direct package driving at constant speed

Direct package driving at variable speed In this system the yarn package is placed in a spindle and the spindle is rotated with the motor. Therefore the package gets motion directly from motor. Here the rotational speed of package is varied inversely to package diameter to keep winding speed constant.

Direct package driving at variable speed

Traverse method Reciprocating yarn guide

Reciprocating yarn guide

Reciprocating yarn guide passage

Reciprocating yarn guide passage

Grooved Drum

Grooved Drum

Precision Winding By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of yarn stored in a given volume. Features

Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse

Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages

Package contains more yarn

Package is less stable

The package is hard and compact

The package is dense

Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard

The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner

Non Precision Winding By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable. Features

Only one coil is used to make this packages

Cross winding technique is used

The package density is low

Minimum number of yarn is wound

The package formed is soft and less compact

The stability is high

Flanges are not required

The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy

The packages formed have low density

Winding Efficiency: Winding Efficiency: [Actual production / Calculated production] * 100%

Efficiency Loss: [(Calculated production - Actual production) / Calculated production] * 100% Winding efficiency depends on the following factors:

Spindle or drum speed: The higher the speed the more is the winding efficiency

Yarn Count: Yarn count is proportional to winding efficiency

Yarn quality: If yarn quality increases then winding efficiency increases

Worker efficiency: The more efficient the work is the more efficient the winding will be.

Humidity: Humidity is reciprocal or inversely proportional to winding efficiency.

Work load per worker: If the work load on each worker is less then efficiency of winding will be more.

Maintenance and over hauling: If the maintenance and over hauling of the machine is not correct then efficiency of winding will decrease.

Power failure: If power failure rate increases the winding efficiency will decrease.

Creeling time: The more the creeling time the less is the efficiency.

Doffing time: The more the doffing time the less is the efficiency.

Capacity utilization: When capacity utilization decreases then efficiency increases. 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

An Overview of USTER CLASSIMAT

An Overview of USTER CLASSIMAT

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

USTER created a numeric value to describe the level of yarn unevenness, the so-called U%, deriving from the German word ‘Unregelmässigkeit’, which means irregularity. This was followed by the first USTER standards in 1957, which provided classification of yarn quality into different levels, today referred to as the USTER® STATISTICS percentile levels. With the introduction in 1960 of the first automatic yarn clearer, the USTER® SPECTOMATIC, spinners had a means of controlling the quality of yarns in the production process. But spinners were still challenged to find a way of using data gathered in the laboratory to optimize the settings of the in-process quality control capabilities of the yarn clearer. The solution came with the launch of the USTER® CLASSIMAT in 1968, which classified yarn defects into classes – the CLASSIMAT® values – with associated USTER® STATISTICS produced the following year. The classification of defects into classes provided the means for spinners to optimize their yarn clearing and the users of yarn to specify the required quality levels. HISTORY: The introduction of the USTER® CLASSIMAT 1 in 1968 revolutionized the checking and determining of yarn quality in production and commerce .The later models CLASSIMAT 2 and CLASSIMAT 3 optimized and extended the application possibilities.The USTER® CLASSIMAT QUANTUM offers even more advanced classification possibilities.

USTER CLASSIMAT

The classification of yarn defects according to their size and length into 23 standard classes is used extensively to certify yarn quality, to help control spinning processes and to optimize yarn clearing at the winding stage. In the meantime, quality demands have increased enormously. A class of defects regarded as tolerable in the past is no longer acceptable today, because basic yarn quality has improved significantly over the years. Fault classification based on the well-proven analysis of thick and thin places remains fundamental, but must now also cover critical parameters such as foreign-matter, count variation, periodic faults, unevenness and hairiness. Consistent quality has risen in importance as much as absolute quality and the monitoring of quality exceptions is crucial to control them. USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 offers the most technically-advanced sensors and superior hardware to detect and eventually classify all types of defects. The unique USTER® sensor range has all the options covered:

The new capacitive sensor identifies both short and fine neps, as well as troublesome thick and thin places that previously could not be detected until showing up in the final fabric.

The latest foreign fiber sensor, using multiple light sources to locate and classify contamination in yarns, even separating colored fibers and vegetable matter in cottons and blends, to distinguish potentially non-disturbing materials from real defects.

A novel sensor combination, enabling polypropylene content to be detected and classified for the first time.

Unique range of advanced sensors covering every option for yarn defect classification

New capacitive sensor with enhanced detection capabilities

Foreign-matter technology, able to distinguish all colors and non-disturbing materials

Breakthrough in polypropylene detection, based on novel sensor combination

New mounting module, special guides and tension control, ensuring ultimate accuracy.

The appearance of seldom-occurring faults in a grey fabric depends on various items:

The cross-section of the fault compared to the mean value.

The length of the fault.

The count of the yarn.

The yarn density in the fabric.

The type of fabric (weaving or knitting).

The new features of the USTER® QUANTUM 3 : Yarn Body -The "yarn body" represents the nominal yarn with its tolerable, frequent yarn faults. Yarn body is a new yarn characteristic, and we know from the experience so far that the yarn body changes according to the raw material and the spinning process. By analyzing the shape of the yarn bodies out of different raw material varieties and process changes, we can discover pat-terns, and build up references. Based on the references, the operator can identify changes. The yarn body becomes always wider in the direction of the short yarn events, e.g. short faults occur more frequent. On the con-trary, the yarn body becomes smaller in the direction of the long yarn events The yarn body is a great tool to help finding the optimum clearing limits for thick places (NSL), thin places (T), yarn count deviations (C) and (CC). The yarn body is composed of two parts:

Dark green area representing the real yarn body.

Light green area representing yarn body variations.

Since both dark and light green areas together constitute the yarn body, it is recommended that the clearing limit should not cut into the yarn body. If the clearing limit is laid within these green areas, the cuts will increase significantly and the productivity will be lower. USTER CLASSIMAT 5 : Previous CLASSIMAT® generations used 23 different classes, giving good coverage of all detected faults. However, there has been enormous progress in yarn quality – yarns have become more even, with the result that smaller defects are now viewed as disturbing. These small faults can now be detected and classified by the USTER® CLASSIMAT 5, extending the existing classification table to include a total of 45 classes. The USTER® CLASSIMAT QUANTUM can be used not only as a tool in order to examine the yarns to be purchased for remaining disturbing thick places, thin places and foreign fibres but also as a sophisticated classifying system which can help the user to determine and set his own yarn quality standards.

USTER CLASSIMAT 5

Today, the selection of the right yarn for the right product is crucial for economic reasons. A continuous incoming inspection guarantees a constant satisfactory quality of the end product. In this respect, yarn clearing and classifying systems are playing a very important role. At the beginning of electronic yarn clearing, the setting of the clearing curve has been quite difficult and has required specialists. In 1968, Uster Technologies launched an electronic system by the name of USTER® CLASSIMAT, which was a revolution in yarn clearing at that time. The purpose of the system was the analysis of seldom-occurring or disturbing thick places and the setting of an optimum clearing curve on the winding machine to eliminate the really disturbing yarn faults and to simultaneously keep the efficiency of the winding machine as high as possible. For this purpose the yarn was classified into four length and in four thick place classes. This analysing system was not only used by spinners. The yarn buyers (traders, weavers, knitters, garment makers, etc) also detected this system as a tool to separate yarns into first grade, second grade, etc, or to establish minimum conditions for the acceptance of yarns. As already mentioned, the first classifying system was introduced in the market in 1968. Therefore, the year 2008 marks the 40th anniversary of this analysing tool. Figure 1 also shows that the system has been permanently improved in the past 40 years. Today with the USTER® CLASSIMAT QUANTUM generation, the cleared and uncleared yarn can be checked. The classification of thick and thin places, neps and foreign fibres in the yarn can be fulfilled. This system also helps the user in determining the optimal limits for yarn clearing, in analysing new material, and supports with experience values, which can be used for benchmarking and evaluation. Zellweger Uster AG, a textile instrument manufacturer based in Switzerland, has produced generations of evenness testing instrument for rapid measurement of the evenness of various fibre assemblies. The latest is the Uster Evenness Tester 4, although its predecessor (Uster Evenness Tester 3) is still widely used. The Uster Evenness Tester : It measures mass variations along the length of a fibre assembly. It is based on the capacitance principle. The two capacitors detect the mass variations or weight per unit length variations of the fibre assembly running between them. These variations are transformed into a proportional electrical signal. The signal processing unit will process this signal, as well as other useful information concerning the mass variations. The key quality attributes listed for these yarns are:

Yarn count variation (between bobbins or packages)

Mass variation (U% and CV%)

Imperfections (thick and thin places, neps)

Uster Hairiness Index

Tensile properties (strength and elongation) .

Conclusion It is well-known that the yarn quality is very important for the quality of the end product. Weak places, for example, mainly affect the productivity (machine stops caused by end breaks) whereas coarse yarn faults in woven or knitted fabrics result in costly rejects. Today, the selection of the right yarn for the right product is crucial for economic reasons. A continuous incoming inspection guarantees a constant satisfactory quality of the end product. In this respect classifying systems are playing a very important role. For example many of the foreign fibre problems are only detected after finishing, and the spinner is finally made responsible for the damage. For this reason, the sooner they are detected, the lower the costs and the better the quality. The costs and claims due to foreign fibres can be prevented by setting up a quality management system to eliminate or minimise the number of foreign fibres in yarns. Within the scope of a modern quality assurance program it is now possible that test reports, which serve as a quality guarantee for the observance of supplier agreements or certificates, are requested with every yarn delivery. As a result of 40 years of continuous experience in yarn clearing and classification, the USTER® CLASSIMAT QUANTUM can be used not only as a tool in order to examine the yarns to be purchased for remaining disturbing thick places, thin places and foreign fibres, but also as a sophisticated classifying system which can help the user to determine and set his own yarn quality standards.

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Yarn Tension Generators | Different Types of Yarn Tension Generators

An Overview of Yarn Tension Generators

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

Yarn Tension Generators Tension in the yarn is measured using of the tension devices, the operator sets the tension in the yarn to the required level by using means that are known as tension generators or compensators or simply tensioning devices. 

 Classification of tension generators under four different categories.

Spring type,

Ball type,

Disc type,

Gate

And roller type tensioners fall under these categories.

Additive type

Multiplicative type

Additive cum multiplicative type

Self compensating type

Additive type tension generators

Additive type tension generators

Additive type tension devices add a constant tension to the input tension.

A good example of this category is a disk-tension device. To calculate the added tension due to a disk-tension device, the formula, To = Ti + 2 μW, can be applied.

Where W is the applied force and μ is the coefficient of friction between the yarn and the tension-device.

Multiplicative type tension generators

Multiplicative type tension generators

Multiplying type tension devices operate by multiplying the incoming tension.

The formula used for calculating the output tension in this case, is called the “belt-formula”.

These tensioning devices is better than the common disk-tension devices.

The general equation for calculating the output tension in this case is given by To = Ti x eμθ.

Additive cum multiplicative type tension generators

Additive cum multiplicative type tension generators

Additive cum multiplicative type tensioning devices comprise of both additive and multiplicative elements.

The general equation for calculating the output tension in this case is given by To= [{(Ti + 2μW1) x eμθ1 + μW2} x eμθ2+ μW3] x eμθ3.

A typical example for this kind of tensioning device is shown in Figure.

Self-adjusting type devices

Different types of tensioning devices

Self-adjusting type devices change their settings depending on the output tension.

An example of this type of tension device is a Disc -type.

Here the yarn passed between the two discs.

The yarn is subjected to frictional force with both the disc.

2 μW will be the total frictional force of disc.

Output tension To=Ti+ 2μW. Thus the input tension Ti is added by the factor μW.

An example of this type of tension device is a lever-type.

The upper arm is spring loaded in a clockwise direction. With low output tension, the lever is in the up position (dotted).

In this position, the yarn has to run around the guides for an increased wrap angle, which increases the yarn tension.

With high output tension, the upper arm moves closer to the lower arm, thereby adding less tension.

The ball-tension device also changes the applied tension, to some degree when the output tension changes.

Higher yarn tension lifts the ball higher, for less wrapping, or reduces the pinching force between the ball and the guide.

In general, these devices are simple and “low cost”.

Their major drawbacks include scuffing of the yarn, tension variations depending on the friction coefficient, and tension spikes with irregular yarns and knots.

(In the general formula given above, To and Ti are the output and input tensions respectively, μ, W, and θ are the coefficient of friction between surfaces, force or pressure applied on the yarn and the angle of wrap over the surface respectively).

(In the general formulae given above, To and Ti are the output and input tensions respectively, μ, W, and θ are the coefficient of friction between surfaces, force or pressure applied on the yarn and the angle of wrap over the surface respectively). 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Yarn Splicing | Types of Yarn Splices | Method of Yarn Splicing

An Overview of Yarn Splicing

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

Splicing: Splicing is the forming of a semi-permanent joint between two threads or two parts of the same rope by partly untwisting and then interweaving their strands.

Splicing of yarn

Splices can be used:

To form a stopper at the end of a line,

To form a loop or an eye in a rope, or

For joining two ropes together.

Types of Splices: There are different types of splice.

Back Splice

Cut Splice

Eye Splice

Ring Splice

Chain Splice

Horseshoe Splice

Long Spice

Back Splice:

A splice where the strands of the end of the rope are spliced directly back into the end without forming a loop.

It is used to finish off the end of the rope to keep it from fraying.

The end of the rope with the splice is about twice the thickness of the rest of the rope.

With nylon and other plastic materials, the back splice is often no longer used; the rope strands are simply fused together with heat to prevent fraying. 

Back Splice

Cut Splice

A splice similar to the eye splice.

It is typically used for light lines (e.g., the log-line) where a single splice would tend to come undone, the rope being frequently wet.

It makes a very strong knot.

A cut splice is a join between two ropes, made by side splicing the ends slightly apart, to make an eye in the joined rope which lies shut when the rope is taut.

Cut Splice

Eye Splice

A splice where the working end is spliced into the working part forming a loop. 

Eye Splice

Ring Splice

Attached the working end of a rope to a ring or clew.

Ring Splice

Chain Splice

Attached the working end of a rope to a chain.

Chain Splice

Horseshoe Splice

A cut splice where the two sides of the loop are of unequal length.

Horseshoe Splice

Long Spice

It is used to join two rope ends forming one rope the length of the total of the two ropes.

The long splice, unlike most splice types, results in a splice that is only very slightly thicker than the rope without the splice, but sacrifices some of the strength of the short splice.

It does this by replacing two of the strands of each rope end with those from the other, and cutting off some of the extra strands that result.

Long Spice

Method of Spicing: In two ways splice is generated.

Fusion Splicing Method

Mechanical Splicing Method

Fusion Splicing Method

As mentioned previously, fusion splicing is a junction of two or more optical fibers that have been permanently affixed by welding them together by an electronic arc.

Fusion splicing is the act of joining two optical fibers end-to-end using heat. The goal is to fuse the two fibers together

Four basic steps to completing a proper fusion splice: Step 1: Preparing the fiber - Strip the protective coatings, jackets, tubes, strength members, etc. leaving only the bare fiber showing. The main concern here is cleanliness. Step 2: Cleave the fiber - Using a good fiber cleaver here is essential to a successful fusion splice. The cleaved end must be mirror-smooth and perpendicular to the fiber axis to obtain a proper splice. Step 3: Fuse the fiber - There are two steps within this step, alignment and heating. Alignment can be manual or automatic depending on what equipment you have. The higher priced equipment you use, the more accurate the alignment becomes. Once properly aligned the fusion splicer unit then uses an electrical arc to melt the fibers, permanently welding the two fiber ends together. Step 4: Protect the fiber - Protecting the fiber from bending and tensile forces will ensure the splice not break during normal handling Mechanical Splicing Method Mechanical splicing is an optical junction where the fibers are precisely aligned and held in place by a self-contained assembly, not a permanent bond. This method aligns the two fiber ends to a common centerline, aligning their cores so the light can pass from one fiber to another. Four steps to performing a mechanical splice: Step 1: Preparing the fiber - Strip the protective coatings, jackets, tubes, strength members, etc. leaving only the bare fiber showing. The main concern here is cleanliness. Step 2: Cleave the fiber - The process is identical to the cleaving for fusion splicing but the cleave precision is not as critical. Step 3: Mechanically join the fibers - There is no heat used in this method. Simply position the fiber ends together inside the mechanical splice unit. The index matching gel inside the mechanical splice apparatus will help couple the light from one fiber end to the other. Older apparatus will have an epoxy rather than the index matching gel holding the cores together. Step 4: Protect the fiber - the completed mechanical splice provides its own protection for the splice. Tips for Better Spices:

Thoroughly and frequently clean your splicing tools. "Excessive" cleaning of your fiber and tools will save you time and money down the road. 

For Fusion splicing, you need more precise cleaver to achieve the exceptional low loss (0.05 dB and less). Maintaining your cleaver by following manufacturer instructions for cleaning as well as using the tool properly will provide you with a long lasting piece of equipment and ensuring the job is done right the first time. 

Fusion parameters must be adjusted minimally and methodically (fusion splicing only). Dirty equipment should be your first check and them continue with the parameters. Fusion time and fusion current are the two key factors for splicing. 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Yarn Splicing | Types of Yarn Splices | Method of Yarn Splicing

An Overview of Yarn Splicing

Bhavdip Paldiya Dept. of Textile Technology Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat, India Cell: [phone] Email: [email protected]

Splicing: Splicing is the forming of a semi-permanent joint between two threads or two parts of the same rope by partly untwisting and then interweaving their strands.

Splicing of yarn

Splices can be used:

To form a stopper at the end of a line,

To form a loop or an eye in a rope, or

For joining two ropes together.

Types of Splices: There are different types of splice.

Back Splice

Cut Splice

Eye Splice

Ring Splice

Chain Splice

Horseshoe Splice

Long Spice

Back Splice:

A splice where the strands of the end of the rope are spliced directly back into the end without forming a loop.

It is used to finish off the end of the rope to keep it from fraying.

The end of the rope with the splice is about twice the thickness of the rest of the rope.

With nylon and other plastic materials, the back splice is often no longer used; the rope strands are simply fused together with heat to prevent fraying. 

Back Splice

Cut Splice

A splice similar to the eye splice.

It is typically used for light lines (e.g., the log-line) where a single splice would tend to come undone, the rope being frequently wet.

It makes a very strong knot.

A cut splice is a join between two ropes, made by side splicing the ends slightly apart, to make an eye in the joined rope which lies shut when the rope is taut.

Cut Splice

Eye Splice

A splice where the working end is spliced into the working part forming a loop. 

Eye Splice

Ring Splice

Attached the working end of a rope to a ring or clew.

Ring Splice

Chain Splice

Attached the working end of a rope to a chain.

Chain Splice

Horseshoe Splice

A cut splice where the two sides of the loop are of unequal length.

Horseshoe Splice

Long Spice

It is used to join two rope ends forming one rope the length of the total of the two ropes.

The long splice, unlike most splice types, results in a splice that is only very slightly thicker than the rope without the splice, but sacrifices some of the strength of the short splice.

It does this by replacing two of the strands of each rope end with those from the other, and cutting off some of the extra strands that result.

Long Spice

Method of Spicing: In two ways splice is generated.

Fusion Splicing Method

Mechanical Splicing Method

Fusion Splicing Method

As mentioned previously, fusion splicing is a junction of two or more optical fibers that have been permanently affixed by welding them together by an electronic arc.

Fusion splicing is the act of joining two optical fibers end-to-end using heat. The goal is to fuse the two fibers together

Four basic steps to completing a proper fusion splice: Step 1: Preparing the fiber - Strip the protective coatings, jackets, tubes, strength members, etc. leaving only the bare fiber showing. The main concern here is cleanliness. Step 2: Cleave the fiber - Using a good fiber cleaver here is essential to a successful fusion splice. The cleaved end must be mirror-smooth and perpendicular to the fiber axis to obtain a proper splice. Step 3: Fuse the fiber - There are two steps within this step, alignment and heating. Alignment can be manual or automatic depending on what equipment you have. The higher priced equipment you use, the more accurate the alignment becomes. Once properly aligned the fusion splicer unit then uses an electrical arc to melt the fibers, permanently welding the two fiber ends together. Step 4: Protect the fiber - Protecting the fiber from bending and tensile forces will ensure the splice not break during normal handling Mechanical Splicing Method Mechanical splicing is an optical junction where the fibers are precisely aligned and held in place by a self-contained assembly, not a permanent bond. This method aligns the two fiber ends to a common centerline, aligning their cores so the light can pass from one fiber to another. Four steps to performing a mechanical splice: Step 1: Preparing the fiber - Strip the protective coatings, jackets, tubes, strength members, etc. leaving only the bare fiber showing. The main concern here is cleanliness. Step 2: Cleave the fiber - The process is identical to the cleaving for fusion splicing but the cleave precision is not as critical. Step 3: Mechanically join the fibers - There is no heat used in this method. Simply position the fiber ends together inside the mechanical splice unit. The index matching gel inside the mechanical splice apparatus will help couple the light from one fiber end to the other. Older apparatus will have an epoxy rather than the index matching gel holding the cores together. Step 4: Protect the fiber - the completed mechanical splice provides its own protection for the splice. Tips for Better Spices:

Thoroughly and frequently clean your splicing tools. "Excessive" cleaning of your fiber and tools will save you time and money down the road. 

For Fusion splicing, you need more precise cleaver to achieve the exceptional low loss (0.05 dB and less). Maintaining your cleaver by following manufacturer instructions for cleaning as well as using the tool properly will provide you with a long lasting piece of equipment and ensuring the job is done right the first time. 

Fusion parameters must be adjusted minimally and methodically (fusion splicing only). Dirty equipment should be your first check and them continue with the parameters. Fusion time and fusion current are the two key factors for splicing. 

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Concepts of Knit Garments Merchandising

CONCEPTS OF KNIT GARMENTS MERCHANDISING M.R. Karthikeyan, 

Expatriate Lecturer in Textile Engineering, Kombolcha Institute of Technology, 

Wollo University, Ethiopia Email : [email protected]

Introduction: Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on time taking into consideration the 4 R’s of expediting Right Cost, Right Quantity, Right Quality and Right Time.

Functions of Merchandisers:

Execution of Sample orders

Costing.

Programming.

Yarn Procurement Arrangements.

Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Drafting.

Accessories arrangement (order placing follow-ups).

Approval of various processors’s sewing operations and finishing processes.

Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval.

Size set approval.

Preproduction sample follow-ups.

Pilot run inspection.

In process inspection.

Production controlling.

Identifying shortages and make arrangements for the shortages.

Shortage quantity and quality following quality control procedures.

Following quality assurance procedures.

Maintaining the junior’s activities of in house and sub-contractor units.

Buyer communication.

Communication with production units, processing units and other third party’s (vendors).

Proper reporting.

Highlighting to the management.

Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising).

Developing samples.

Placement of orders.

Taking measures for consistent production.

Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of merchandising.

Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about merchandising.

1. Sample order execution: After the receipt of the Specification, pertaining to the sample order, the merchandiser has to understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be amendments related to any of the specifications in the sample order sheet. It is the duty of the merchandiser to execute sample order and dispatch on time the “Right quality.”

Knit garment

2. Costing: The merchandisers should know the following details while costing.

Yarn cost.

Process cost (Knitting, Bleaching, and Raising etc.)

Rates pertaining to various sewing operations.

CMT(Cut Make Trim) Rate.

Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate.

Overheads.

Shortage (or) wastage 3%.

Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%.

Insurance 2%-3%,

Buyers’ agents commission 5%-6%,

Quota rate per garment.

Profit 15% - 20%

3. Programming: Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is done by the merchandisers. The following factors should be considered in programming.

1. Allowances:

Fabric structure

Dia. fixation (knitting dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.)

Process loss (shrinkage etc.)

Size wise piece weight

Extra quantity required

Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)

4. Route card Drafting (or) Production Scheduling: For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned manner. The following details (or) aspects should be considered in drafting (or) scheduling.

Design

No. of sewing operations

No.of processes

Despatch date

No. of Components

Type of stitches

Order quantity

Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units.

Prioritizing the other factors

Targeted dates for various processes (or) stages of merchandising.

Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of merchandising should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or) operation is actually done should also be entered in production scheduling. The merchandisers are accountable for the deviation.

5. Accessories arrangements: Merchandiser has to make arrangements for the timely delivery of the required accessories to the concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose. The merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the details furnished in accessories requisition form. After the receipt of accessories quality check will be done.

6. Approvals: Approval is an authentication of all required conformances related to a process (or) an operation. The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various processes and sewing operations before approvals. There should not heron-conformities. Evidences for approval should be cross checked to confirm that all the approvals having made properly.

7. Approval of various processes sewing operations and finishing processes:

The various process of sewing operations and finishing process such as patter making, cutting, sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers

8. Pattern approvals: Patterns should be approved for

Measurement

Style and fit

Allowances

Accuracy of pattern

If there is any non-conformance in pattern that should be corrected before it is used in production Pattern approval samples will be received from the concerned units and approved by the approval department (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conformance in any size sample revised sample for that size should be again submitted for approval.

9. Size set approvals: Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers. All the quality parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross checked. The below mentioned aspects should be considered.

Measurements

Aesthetics

Process quality

GSM

Piece shrinkage

Washing fastness of the piece

Sewing operation quality

Print (or) embroidery position

Labeling instructions.

Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate.

Washing fastness of garment should be verified.

Shrinkage in garment can also be verified.

10. Pre-production samples: This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers, buyer agents office buying office). All the quality parameters have to be verified. In case of non-conformances it will be mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we may have to submit the revised samples after the required rectifications.

11. Pilot run inspection: Pilot run denotes the first production garments quality parameters are verified and preventive measures can be taken. The follow up team should do pilot run inspection to identify the various defects and it will be rectified in production.

12. In process inspection: In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activities related to execution of an order. We can have procedures for frequency and adequacy. In case of major non- conformities we have to highlight the problems of quality at the right time to the right person without fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to confirm that all the required quality procedures are adopted by the concerned units and preventive actions are taken to enhance the performance.

13. Production controlling: Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be taken to control the nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to control the non-conformances. Periodical quality check should be done after an hour.

14. Shortage problem: The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn, fabric, accessories etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the shortages steps are to be taken for the arrangement of required materials on time. In case of shortages also we have to follow the quality control and quality assurance procedure without fail. Quality of the material should not be compromised.

15. Following quality control procedures: In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual. The merchandiser has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and operations quality procedures should be followed very strictly. It has to inculcate the importance of procedures to subordinates, in house units (or) own units, and sub contractors. Following quality assurance procedures: All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be followed very strictly without partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches, tested accessories) should be maintained properly. Before cutting, the merchandiser has to confirm that the concerned unit has got all the required approvals properly from the authorized person.

16. Monitoring the junior activities: The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the subordinates about the quality procedures. He has to give instructions to them before going for factory visits. He has to discuss the various activities to be executed on a particular day. The merchandiser has to control the activities of the subordinates so that the performance of the followed team is good.

17. Monitoring the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units:

The merchandiser has to monitor the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units. He has to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance procedures are followed up properly by them (or) not. He has to inculcate the importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the planned performance level.

18. Buyer communication: The merchandiser has to go through the faxes coming from buyers and he has to send reply on time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular order to the concerned buyer on time. The below mentioned are some of the duties of buyer communication,

Sample execution

Amendments

Comments on the send samples

Sample order sheet

Buyer visit

Production status

Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals.

19. Communication with others: The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and job workers of various processing. Through proper interaction only we make arrangements for the timely supply of the required materials to the concerned persons. He has to know the production status from various units which will be helpful in proper follow and proper importing.

20. Proper Reporting: The merchandiser has to furnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right time. He has to give reports for the below mentioned activities

Sample execution

Approvals

Testing procedures

Production status

Programming

Shortage details

Inspection details arid status.

Production status for meting etc.

Report from inspection agencies, testing labs

21. High Lighting: The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right time without fail. Highlighting will facilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps to tackle the problems on time. Proper decision is made due to timely highlighting.

22. Record maintenance: The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders. Proper filing should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record maintenance. The below mentioned are some examples.

Sample details

Sample Inspection Reports

Testing Reports

Evidence of approvals

Proper filing (Buyer wise, order wise)

Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy)

Pilot run Inspection Report

Fabric Inspection report

Mid Inspection Report

Inspection report from buying office, buying agents and inspection agencies.

Test reports from inspection agencies and labs

Production status reports

Production status reports related to meetings

Pre-final inspection reports

Final inspection reports etc.

23. Developing samples: Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may have to develop samples. Samples may be fabric with required knit structure (or) garments with required specification. The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case of non-conformities in the samples developed, revised samples may be send for approval purpose. It is the duty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to the concerned buyers by means of consistent follow-up.

24. Placements of orders: Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors after evaluation (when the production capacity is not sufficient) order is placed to new manufacturers also orders can be placed to in-house units also. In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or) responsible to find out the right manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial stages small quantity order will be placed. After verifying their performance large quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it may be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of CMT order after the confirmation of average piece weight of a particular size, processed fabric is delivered to the concerned unit by the supplier.

25. Taking measures for consistent production: It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activities in accordance with the production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of each and every process (or) an operation within the targeted time. He has to take the necessary step for the consistent production by tackling the problems in merchandising. (e.g.)

Quality of yarn

Replacing good quality yarn

Consistent arrangement for fabric

Timely arrangements for the timely supply of accessories.

Shortage quantities follow up.

26. Preventive actions: Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive actions to eliminate deviations in all the stages of merchandising.

27. Attending meetings with superiors: Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for implementing new systems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of production status meeting the production details about various buyers’ order will be collected by the merchandiser from different units and will furnished to superiors. The merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by the superiors pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders.

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Concepts of Knit Garments Merchandising

CONCEPTS OF KNIT GARMENTS MERCHANDISING M.R. Karthikeyan, 

Expatriate Lecturer in Textile Engineering, Kombolcha Institute of Technology, 

Wollo University, Ethiopia Email : [email protected]

Introduction: Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on time taking into consideration the 4 R’s of expediting Right Cost, Right Quantity, Right Quality and Right Time.

Functions of Merchandisers:

Execution of Sample orders

Costing.

Programming.

Yarn Procurement Arrangements.

Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Drafting.

Accessories arrangement (order placing follow-ups).

Approval of various processors’s sewing operations and finishing processes.

Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval.

Size set approval.

Preproduction sample follow-ups.

Pilot run inspection.

In process inspection.

Production controlling.

Identifying shortages and make arrangements for the shortages.

Shortage quantity and quality following quality control procedures.

Following quality assurance procedures.

Maintaining the junior’s activities of in house and sub-contractor units.

Buyer communication.

Communication with production units, processing units and other third party’s (vendors).

Proper reporting.

Highlighting to the management.

Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising).

Developing samples.

Placement of orders.

Taking measures for consistent production.

Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of merchandising.

Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about merchandising.

1. Sample order execution: After the receipt of the Specification, pertaining to the sample order, the merchandiser has to understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be amendments related to any of the specifications in the sample order sheet. It is the duty of the merchandiser to execute sample order and dispatch on time the “Right quality.”

Knit garment

2. Costing: The merchandisers should know the following details while costing.

Yarn cost.

Process cost (Knitting, Bleaching, and Raising etc.)

Rates pertaining to various sewing operations.

CMT(Cut Make Trim) Rate.

Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate.

Overheads.

Shortage (or) wastage 3%.

Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%.

Insurance 2%-3%,

Buyers’ agents commission 5%-6%,

Quota rate per garment.

Profit 15% - 20%

3. Programming: Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is done by the merchandisers. The following factors should be considered in programming.

1. Allowances:

Fabric structure

Dia. fixation (knitting dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.)

Process loss (shrinkage etc.)

Size wise piece weight

Extra quantity required

Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)

4. Route card Drafting (or) Production Scheduling: For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned manner. The following details (or) aspects should be considered in drafting (or) scheduling.

Design

No. of sewing operations

No.of processes

Despatch date

No. of Components

Type of stitches

Order quantity

Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units.

Prioritizing the other factors

Targeted dates for various processes (or) stages of merchandising.

Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of merchandising should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or) operation is actually done should also be entered in production scheduling. The merchandisers are accountable for the deviation.

5. Accessories arrangements: Merchandiser has to make arrangements for the timely delivery of the required accessories to the concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose. The merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the details furnished in accessories requisition form. After the receipt of accessories quality check will be done.

6. Approvals: Approval is an authentication of all required conformances related to a process (or) an operation. The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various processes and sewing operations before approvals. There should not heron-conformities. Evidences for approval should be cross checked to confirm that all the approvals having made properly.

7. Approval of various processes sewing operations and finishing processes:

The various process of sewing operations and finishing process such as patter making, cutting, sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers

8. Pattern approvals: Patterns should be approved for

Measurement

Style and fit

Allowances

Accuracy of pattern

If there is any non-conformance in pattern that should be corrected before it is used in production Pattern approval samples will be received from the concerned units and approved by the approval department (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conformance in any size sample revised sample for that size should be again submitted for approval.

9. Size set approvals: Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers. All the quality parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross checked. The below mentioned aspects should be considered.

Measurements

Aesthetics

Process quality

GSM

Piece shrinkage

Washing fastness of the piece

Sewing operation quality

Print (or) embroidery position

Labeling instructions.

Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate.

Washing fastness of garment should be verified.

Shrinkage in garment can also be verified.

10. Pre-production samples: This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers, buyer agents office buying office). All the quality parameters have to be verified. In case of non-conformances it will be mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we may have to submit the revised samples after the required rectifications.

11. Pilot run inspection: Pilot run denotes the first production garments quality parameters are verified and preventive measures can be taken. The follow up team should do pilot run inspection to identify the various defects and it will be rectified in production.

12. In process inspection: In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activities related to execution of an order. We can have procedures for frequency and adequacy. In case of major non- conformities we have to highlight the problems of quality at the right time to the right person without fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to confirm that all the required quality procedures are adopted by the concerned units and preventive actions are taken to enhance the performance.

13. Production controlling: Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be taken to control the nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to control the non-conformances. Periodical quality check should be done after an hour.

14. Shortage problem: The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn, fabric, accessories etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the shortages steps are to be taken for the arrangement of required materials on time. In case of shortages also we have to follow the quality control and quality assurance procedure without fail. Quality of the material should not be compromised.

15. Following quality control procedures: In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual. The merchandiser has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and operations quality procedures should be followed very strictly. It has to inculcate the importance of procedures to subordinates, in house units (or) own units, and sub contractors. Following quality assurance procedures: All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be followed very strictly without partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches, tested accessories) should be maintained properly. Before cutting, the merchandiser has to confirm that the concerned unit has got all the required approvals properly from the authorized person.

16. Monitoring the junior activities: The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the subordinates about the quality procedures. He has to give instructions to them before going for factory visits. He has to discuss the various activities to be executed on a particular day. The merchandiser has to control the activities of the subordinates so that the performance of the followed team is good.

17. Monitoring the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units:

The merchandiser has to monitor the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units. He has to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance procedures are followed up properly by them (or) not. He has to inculcate the importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the planned performance level.

18. Buyer communication: The merchandiser has to go through the faxes coming from buyers and he has to send reply on time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular order to the concerned buyer on time. The below mentioned are some of the duties of buyer communication,

Sample execution

Amendments

Comments on the send samples

Sample order sheet

Buyer visit

Production status

Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals.

19. Communication with others: The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and job workers of various processing. Through proper interaction only we make arrangements for the timely supply of the required materials to the concerned persons. He has to know the production status from various units which will be helpful in proper follow and proper importing.

20. Proper Reporting: The merchandiser has to furnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right time. He has to give reports for the below mentioned activities

Sample execution

Approvals

Testing procedures

Production status

Programming

Shortage details

Inspection details arid status.

Production status for meting etc.

Report from inspection agencies, testing labs

21. High Lighting: The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right time without fail. Highlighting will facilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps to tackle the problems on time. Proper decision is made due to timely highlighting.

22. Record maintenance: The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders. Proper filing should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record maintenance. The below mentioned are some examples.

Sample details

Sample Inspection Reports

Testing Reports

Evidence of approvals

Proper filing (Buyer wise, order wise)

Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy)

Pilot run Inspection Report

Fabric Inspection report

Mid Inspection Report

Inspection report from buying office, buying agents and inspection agencies.

Test reports from inspection agencies and labs

Production status reports

Production status reports related to meetings

Pre-final inspection reports

Final inspection reports etc.

23. Developing samples: Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may have to develop samples. Samples may be fabric with required knit structure (or) garments with required specification. The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case of non-conformities in the samples developed, revised samples may be send for approval purpose. It is the duty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to the concerned buyers by means of consistent follow-up.

24. Placements of orders: Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors after evaluation (when the production capacity is not sufficient) order is placed to new manufacturers also orders can be placed to in-house units also. In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or) responsible to find out the right manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial stages small quantity order will be placed. After verifying their performance large quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it may be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of CMT order after the confirmation of average piece weight of a particular size, processed fabric is delivered to the concerned unit by the supplier.

25. Taking measures for consistent production: It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activities in accordance with the production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of each and every process (or) an operation within the targeted time. He has to take the necessary step for the consistent production by tackling the problems in merchandising. (e.g.)

Quality of yarn

Replacing good quality yarn

Consistent arrangement for fabric

Timely arrangements for the timely supply of accessories.

Shortage quantities follow up.

26. Preventive actions: Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive actions to eliminate deviations in all the stages of merchandising.

27. Attending meetings with superiors: Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for implementing new systems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of production status meeting the production details about various buyers’ order will be collected by the merchandiser from different units and will furnished to superiors. The merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by the superiors pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders.

[textilefashionstudy-blog]

Procedure of Fabric Seam Slippage Test

Seam Slippage:

Seam slippage is a fabric problem especially for fabrics that contain slippery yarns or that have an open structure or where the number of warp and weft interlacings is low. Such factors mean that one set of yarns may be easily pulled through the other. Seam slippage is the condition where a seam sewn in the fabric opens under load. Some of this gap may close on removal of the load but some of it may be a permanent deformation. Seam Slippage Test: This test method is used to determine the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns , or warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard seam. There are three different types of seam slippage test in existence, each of which has its drawbacks. Firstly there is the type where a standard seam is put under a fixed load and the seam gape is measured. In second type a load extension curve is plotted with and without a standard seam and the difference between the two curves is taken as the slippage. The third type does away with a sewn seam and measures the force required to pull a set of pins through the fabric. A variant of the first type is to measure the load required to give a fixed seam opening. Procedure of Seam Slippage Test: The British Standard test for seam slippage is a test of the second type. Five warp and five weft specimens each 100mm X 350mm are used. Each sample is folded 100mm from one end and a seam is sewed 20mm from the fold line using the special sewing thread and sewing machine settings which are detailed in the standard. The layout of the sample is shown in Fig. After sewing the folded part of the fabric is cut away 12mm from the fold line leaving the seam 8mm from the cut edge. A standard strength tester equipped with 25mm grab test jaws is used, the gauge length being set to 75 mm.

Fig

Just before the test the sample is cut into two parts one with the seam and one without but with each part containing the same set of warp or weft threads. The sample without a seam is first stretched in the tensile tester up to a load of 20ON and a force elongation curve drawn. The matching sample with the seam is then tested in the same way making sure that the force elongation curve starts from the same zero position. In order to find the force required to open the seam a given distance, the separation of the curves at a force of 5 N is measured and this distance is added to the seam opening specified (usually 6mm but some specifications require 5 mm) making appropriate allowance for the horizontal scale of the chart. Next the point on the curves where there is a separation of this distance is located and the value of load at this point is read off the chart. If the curves do not reach the specified separation below 20ON then the result is recorded as 'more than 20ON'.