Anna

[thatwildyard]

How To Sow Epiphyllum: A Visual Guide

[thatwildyard]

🌿 Guide to Clivia Plant Care

Clivia in Its Native Habitat

Clivia plants, native to the shaded woodlands of South Africa, belong to the Amaryllidaceae family. In their natural habitat, they grow in dappled light under forest canopies, thriving in cool, dry winters and mild, moist summers. These conditions shape their care needs: excellent drainage, filtered light, and a defined rest period.

🪴 Clivia Care Essentials

☀️ Light Requirements

Indoors: Bright, indirect light (e.g., near east- or north-facing windows)

Outdoors: Dappled shade; avoid full sun, which burns leaves

No direct midday sun—it causes sun scorch

💧 Watering Schedule

Spring–Summer (Active Growth):

Water thoroughly when top 1–2 inches of soil is dry

Avoid waterlogged soil

Fall–Winter (Dormancy):

Water sparingly—every 3–4 weeks

Withhold water entirely if leaves remain firm and soil is moist

🌡️ Temperature & Humidity

Ideal range: 60–75°F

Cool rest period: 40–50°F in fall and early winter promotes flowering

Avoid frost or extended exposure below 35°F

Moderate humidity; light mist if air is very dry indoors

🌱 Soil & Potting

Soil: Loose, well-draining mix (e.g., rich potting + perlite)

pH: Slightly acidic to neutral (6.0–7.0)

Potting Tips:

Clivia prefer to be pot-bound—repot every 3–5 years

Use a container with good drainage

🌸 Fertilization

Active growth (spring–summer):

Monthly with balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 or 20-20-20)

After flowering:

Switch to low-nitrogen formula (e.g., 3-15-6)

No fertilizer during winter dormancy

💤 Dormancy & Flowering Cycle

How to trigger bloom:

Withhold water in late fall/early winter (8–10 weeks)

Provide cool temperatures (40–50°F)

Resume watering when flower stalk appears

Flowers usually emerge late winter to early spring

🛠️ Maintenance Tips

🟢 Deadhead spent blooms to redirect energy

✂️ Remove damaged or yellow leaves as needed

🪴 Repot only after flowering

🧪 Monitor for mealybugs or scale—use neem oil or insecticidal soap

🚫 Do not overwater—root rot is the most common killer

🌼 Encouraging Repeat Blooms

Ensure proper rest period (cool temps, no water)

Avoid excess nitrogen—promotes foliage over flowers

Allow pot to remain root-bound for best bloom potential

🌿 Propagation

✅ Offsets (pups): Divide during repotting, once they have 4–5 leaves

💚 Breeding via seed propagation

📌 Key Takeaways

Low maintenance and long-lived when undisturbed

Cool rest period = critical for blooming

Avoid overwatering and direct sun

Keep rootbound for optimal health and flowering

[thatwildyard]

Plumeria: Seasonal Care and Nutrients

🌸 Seasonal Care Checklist for Plumeria

🌱 Spring (Growth, Awakening)

✅ Repot if rootbound or if soil needs refreshing.

✅ Begin watering gradually as temperatures rise (~60°F / 15°C+).

✅ Apply first dose of high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 10-30-10).

✅ Move outdoors once nights stay above 50°F (10°C).

✅ Prune dead or leggy branches (early spring only).

✅ Inspect for pests before moving outside.

🌿 Summer (Active Growth & Blooming)

Goals: Maximize blooming and healthy foliage.

✅ Water deeply when soil is dry (allow slight drying between).

✅ Feed every 2–4 weeks with bloom-boosting fertilizer.

✅ Ensure 6–8 hours of full sun daily.

✅ Rotate pots periodically for even growth.

✅ Watch for spider mites, whiteflies, or mealybugs.

✅ Stake or support heavy bloom stalks if needed.

🍂 Autumn (Transition to Dormancy)

Goals: Prepare for dormancy and protect from cold.

✅ Gradually reduce watering as growth slows.

✅ Stop fertilizing by mid-September.

✅ Bring indoors or shelter before temps dip below 45°F.

✅ Inspect for pests before storing.

✅ Remove dead or yellowing leaves gently.

❄️ Winter (Dormancy)

Goals: Rest period — minimal stress, no growth expected.

✅ Store in a cool, dry, dark place (ideally 50–60°F).

✅ Do not water unless shriveling occurs — then give a light drink.

✅ Avoid light and heat unless keeping in active growth mode.

✅ Do not fertilize or repot.

✅ Check monthly for rot or pests.

📅 Fertilizer Calendar

🌱 Late Winter to Early Spring (February–March)

Goal: Wake up the plant and stimulate leaf and root growth.

Type: Balanced fertilizer (10-30-10 or 20-20-20)

Frequency: Every 2 weeks (half-strength if indoors)

Add-ons: Epsom salt (1 tbsp/gallon once a month) for magnesium

Notes: Begin when temperatures stay consistently above 60°F (15.5°C)

🌿 Spring to Early Summer (April–June)

Goal: Leafing out and flower stem (inflorescence) development

Type: High phosphorus (10-50-10 or bloom booster)

Frequency: Every 10–14 days

[thatwildyard]

🌺 Advanced Guide to Growing Plumeria

Featuring Indoor Cultivation, Plunging, and Overwintering Techniques

🌿 Introduction

Overview

Plumeria, renowned for its iconic blooms and intoxicating scent, is a semi-deciduous tropical shrub/tree often grown in containers outside of its native range. While relatively low-maintenance in tropical zones, growing it in temperate climates, especially indoors or with seasonal plunging and overwintering, requires advanced techniques.

Foundation

Originally from Central America and the Caribbean, Plumeria thrives in warm, dry conditions. Successful cultivation outside tropical zones requires managing light, soil drainage, and seasonal dormancy—particularly in containerized plants.

This guide will help you:

Master indoor Plumeria growing conditions

Apply strategic plunging for seasonal display

Overwinter plants safely to protect and conserve energy

Elevate bloom production and long-term health

🌱 Core Principles

1. Tropical Dry-Season Cycle Management

Explanation: Plumeria growth and dormancy follow a dry/wet seasonal rhythm. Application: Mimic tropical cycles indoors by adjusting watering and light with seasonal cues.

2. Controlled Environment Optimization

Explanation: Indoors or in pots, conditions must be artificially optimized. Application: Provide 12–14 hours of light, regulated heat, and excellent airflow when grown inside.

3. Seasonal Root-Zone Strategy

Explanation: Plumeria roots are highly sensitive to overwatering, especially in winter. Application: Use well-draining soil and containers, with dry rest periods during dormancy.

🏡 Growing Plumeria Indoors

Advantages

Year-round control over light, humidity, and watering

Prevents frost damage

Ideal for climates with prolonged cold season

Requirements

Lighting

12–14 hrs/day of full-spectrum LED grow lights or other source of bright lighting, such as south-facing window

Place lighting 6–12 inches above canopy

Use programmable timers for photoperiod control

Temperature

Day: 75–85°F (24–29°C)

Night: No lower than 60°F (16°C)

Humidity

Keep between 40–60%

Use trays with pebbles or humidifiers if air is dry

Ensure Adequate Air Circulation

Use oscillating fans or small intake fans to avoid stagnant air and fungal issues

Soil Mix

40% perlite

30% coarse sand

30% cactus mix

Optional: add biochar or orchid bark for structure

Container

Use breathable containers (terra cotta preferred)

Must have drainage holes

Repot every 2–3 years for root health

🪴 Plunging Plumeria

What is Plunging?

Plunging means placing a potted Plumeria into a garden bed temporarily for summer growing—then removing it for winter storage.

Why Plunge?

Access full sun and air circulation

Improve aesthetics and root temperature

Easy removal before cold weather

How to Plunge Successfully

Choose Location: Full sun (6–8 hrs/day), sheltered from wind

Dig Hole: Match pot size with a 1–2 inch margin

Line Base (optional): Use gravel layer or mesh to deter pests

Bury Pot: Keep rim level with soil surface for airflow

Watering: Water only when soil dries out

Feeding: Fertilize every 2 weeks with bloom booster (10-30-10 or similar)

End-of-Season Tips

Stop fertilizing ~6 weeks before first frost

Allow plant to naturally enter dormancy before bringing indoors

Clean pot exterior before storage

❄️ Overwintering Plumeria

Dormancy Period

Occurs naturally in fall with cooler temps or shorter photoperiod. Leaves yellow and fall off—this is healthy.

Three Proven Overwintering Methods

1. Dry Dormant Storage (Most Reliable)

Allow plant to go completely dormant

Remove all leaves

Store in garage, basement, or closet (temps 50–60°F / 10–15°C)

Keep completely dry; do not water at all

2. Semi-Dormant with Light

Keep in a sunny window or under grow lights

Reduce watering to once/month

Only maintain if temps never drop below 55°F (13°C)

3. Root-Bare Storage (Advanced)

Remove soil and clean roots

Wrap in newspaper or paper bags

Store in dark, cool area (like dormant canna bulbs)

Replant in spring

Important Warnings

Do not fertilize during dormancy

Resume watering only when new growth emerges in spring

Check monthly for mold or soft spots; remove any mushy material

🛠️ Advanced Growth Strategies

1. Artificial Bloom Induction Indoors

Use 14 hrs of strong full-spectrum lighting

Provide phosphorus-rich nutrients (low-N, high-P)

Maintain root-bound status for older plants (promotes flowering)

2. Micro-Grafting Varieties

Graft multiple cultivars on one rootstock

Best done during active spring growth

Use cleft or wedge technique; secure with parafilm

3. Controlled Stress to Induce Bloom

Restrict watering for 2–3 weeks before growing season

Follow with light watering and fertilizer

Mimics dry-to-wet tropical bloom trigger

📆 Integration Protocols

Daily

Check moisture before watering

Adjust light timer or rotation schedule if needed

Weekly

Wipe dust off leaves under lights

Inspect for pests (mealybugs, spider mites, scale)

Monthly

Prune to shape during growing season

Rotate pot to balance growth

⚠️ Obstacle Mastery

Issue 1: Indoor Leaf Drop

Cause: Too little light or overwatering Solution: Move closer to grow lights; reduce watering

Issue 2: No Blooms

Cause: Excessive nitrogen or low light Solution: Use bloom booster and increase sun/grow light exposure

Issue 3: Root Rot

Cause: Poor drainage or watering during dormancy Solution: Let dry out, improve soil, never water dormant plant

🚀 Acceleration Factors

1. Bottom Heat

Heat mats under pots improve early season rooting or bloom prep

2. Micronutrient Foliar Sprays

Monthly foliar spray with magnesium, iron, and sulfur improves foliage color and bloom set

3. Grafting for Color Variety

Allows multiple bloom types from one tree

📏 Measurement and Tracking

Indicators

Spring: Green tips = growth

Mid-Summer: New leaves and bloom spikes

Fall: Leaves yellowing = dormancy incoming

Tools

Digital thermometer

Moisture meter

Light meter (for indoor growers)

🔬 Evidence and Validation

Research

University of Florida studies on tropical dormancy cycles

Anecdotal success from Plumeria Society growers in USDA zones 6–10

Expert Notes

Grown successfully in apartments with adequate lighting

Container plunging reduces transplant shock and saves labor

📚 Resources & Next Steps

Essential Reading

The Tropical Look by Robert Lee Riffle

Plumeria Society articles and bloom journals

Tools & Materials

Full-spectrum LED grow lights

Heat mats

Pebble trays

Fertilizer (10-30-10)

Communities

Plumeria Society of America

Reddit r/Plumeria

Facebook: Plumeria Enthusiasts, Indoor Tropical Growers

✅ Conclusion

Key Takeaways

Plumeria thrives with dry roots, full sun, and seasonal cues

Indoors growing demands light, airflow, and restraint

Overwintering safely = dormant, dry, and cool

Plunging bridges beauty and practicality

Immediate Steps

Ensure adequate light source and airflow system

Identify plunging sites in your garden

Prepare winter storage space (cool, dry, dark)

Long-Term Vision

With strategic seasonal care, Plumeria can bloom indoors, survive northern winters, and dazzle each summer—proving that tropical beauty knows no zone limits.

Final Motivation

Even far from the equator, a little planning and care can turn your home or garden into a tropical oasis—one fragrant bloom at a time.

[thatwildyard]

Complete Guide to Rooting and Caring for Plumeria 

🌼 Introduction

Overview

Plumeria, also known as Frangipani, is a tropical flowering tree prized for its fragrant blooms and vivid colors. Propagating Plumeria from cuttings is easy, fast, and ensures the same flower color as the parent.

Foundation

Native to the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America, Plumeria thrives in warm climates with good drainage and lots of sunlight. It’s deciduous in winter and easy to shape, making it a favorite for container gardeners and tropical landscapes alike.

Transformation Promise

In this guide, you'll learn how to:

Successfully root Plumeria from cuttings

Prevent rot and improve success rates

Care for and maintain healthy, flowering Plumeria trees

🌱 Core Principles

1. Choose Healthy, Mature Cuttings

Explanation: Mature cuttings (12–18 inches) root more reliably than young growth. Application: Use sterilized tools to cut from previous year's growth.

2. Allow Callusing Before Planting

Explanation: Plumeria cuttings must dry out at the base before planting to avoid rot. Application: Store upright in a dry, shaded place for 7–10 days until the cut end forms a callus.

3. Rooting Depends on Heat and Drainage

Explanation: Warmth (77–86°F) and well-draining soil encourage root growth. Application: Use cactus mix or create your own with coarse sand, perlite, and compost.

🌿 Best Practice for Rooting Cuttings

Method 1: Container Rooting (Most Reliable for Home Growers)

Description

Allows full control over soil moisture and root development.

Step-by-Step Process

Prepare Cutting: Let callus for 7–10 days.

Prepare Soil Mix: Use 50% perlite + 50% cactus mix, or similar well-draining blend.

Pot Cutting: Plant the cutting 3–5 inches deep in a 1-gallon pot.

Support: Stake upright to prevent wobbling.

Watering: Water once after planting. Then wait until the soil is completely dry before watering again.

Environment: Place in warm, indirect light (not direct sun yet).

Check for Roots: After 3–6 weeks, gently tug; resistance indicates rooting.

Best Practices

Water sparingly—overwatering is the #1 killer

Use nursery pots with drainage holes

Use rooting hormone if desired (optional)

Common Mistakes

Too much water too soon → root rot

Planting too deeply → stem rot

Expected Results

Roots in 4–6 weeks

New leaves in 6–10 weeks

Can be transplanted or hardened off at ~3 months

Method 2: Bag Rooting (Humidity Control Method)

Description

This method improves humidity around the cutting for better root formation.

Step-by-Step Process

Prepare cutting and soil as above.

Place potted cutting inside a clear plastic bag (e.g., Ziploc or produce bag).

Open bag occasionally to prevent mold.

Keep in bright, indirect light.

Best Practices

Use bamboo sticks to keep the bag from touching the cutting

Mist soil lightly if it becomes too dry

🌴 General Care of Mature Plumeria

🌞 Light

Needs at least 6 hours of full sun daily

Best flowering occurs in direct sunlight

🪴 Soil & Drainage

Prefers well-draining sandy or loamy soil

pH range: 6.0–7.5

Avoid clay or soggy ground

💧 Watering

Water deeply when soil is dry (every 7–14 days in summer)

Reduce watering in fall; keep dry during winter dormancy

NEVER let roots sit in water

🌿 Fertilizing

Use high phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 10-30-10) every 2–4 weeks during growing season

Stop feeding in late summer to prepare for dormancy

✂️ Pruning

Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth

Remove leggy branches to shape the canopy

Cut above a node to encourage branching (each cut usually results in 2–3 new tips)

🧼 Pest Management

Common pests: spider mites, mealybugs, aphids

Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap

Watch for black tip fungus during damp weather—remove infected tips immediately

🚀 Advanced Strategies

Strategy 1: Root Boosting with Bottom Heat

Use a heat mat during rooting phase

Reduces rooting time by 30–50%

Strategy 2: Strategic Grafting for Unique Colors

Graft rare or multiple varieties onto a single rootstock

Use cleft grafting after both branches are fully callused

🗓️ Integration Protocols

Daily Routine

Check leaves for pests or signs of stress

Ensure adequate sun exposure

Monitor soil dryness

Weekly Tasks

Rotate container-grown plants for even growth

Remove spent flowers to encourage more blooms

Monthly Care

Fertilize during growing season

Inspect for rootbound conditions in containers

🛠️ Obstacle Mastery

Challenge 1: No Rooting

Cause: Planting too soon or in cold conditions

Solution: Ensure cutting is callused and soil is warm

Challenge 2: Mushy Base (Rot)

Cause: Overwatering or planting before callus formed

Solution: Let cut end dry longer; use sandy, dry soil

Challenge 3: No Blooms

Cause: Not enough sun or over-fertilizing with nitrogen

Solution: Move to full sun; switch to high-phosphorus bloom fertilizer

⚡ Acceleration Factors

1. Warm Soil = Fast Roots

Use dark pots or place near warm walls to boost rooting temp

2. Tip Protection

Cover cut ends with sulfur powder or cinnamon to prevent fungus

3. Dormancy Awareness

Plumeria won't root or grow in winter; propagate in spring–summer

📏 Measurement and Tracking

Progress Indicators

Early: Base stays firm, upright

Mid-stage: Leaf buds appear

Late: New branches grow from tip

Tracking Tools

Keep a journal with cut date, rooting progress, and weather notes

Label each cutting with variety and start date

🎯 Specialized Applications

Tropical Garden Centerpieces

Fragrant Patio Trees (in pots)

Seasonal Bonsai-style Pruning Projects

Multi-color Grafting Experiments

Cutting Exchange with Collectors

🔬 Evidence and Validation

Research Foundation

University of Hawaii studies show Plumeria roots best between 26–30°C

Texas A&M recommends sandy, well-aerated mixes for maximum root success

Expert Perspectives

Plumeria Society of America: Avoid overwatering and prioritize heat

Tropical growers emphasize letting plants dry fully before rewatering

Case Studies

Cuttings in Arizona and Florida root in 5 weeks with 50% perlite mix

Indoor propagation in Canada successful with heat mats and grow lights

📚 Resources and Next Steps

Essential Reading

Plumeria: How to Grow It Successfully by Jim Little

Plumeria Society of America (https://theplumeriasociety.org)

Practical Tools

Sterile shears

Cactus soil or sand/perlite mix

Bamboo stakes

Clay pots with drainage

Learning Opportunities

Local plant propagation classes

Online workshops from tropical plant clubs

Community Connections

Facebook: Plumeria Addicts, Plumeria Society groups

Reddit: r/Plumeria

✅ Conclusion

Key Takeaways

Let cuttings callus 7–10 days before planting

Use well-draining soil and minimal watering

Place in full sun for best growth and flowers

Immediate Next Steps

Collect or purchase healthy cuttings

Prepare soil mix and containers

Root indoors or outdoors depending on climate

Long-Term Vision

With proper care, Plumeria can reward you for decades with vibrant blooms and tropical fragrance, growing into stunning trees or portable potted beauties.

[thatwildyard]

Complete Guide to Planting and Caring for Dragon Fruit from Cuttings

Introduction

🌵 Overview

Dragon Fruit, also known as pitaya, is a fast-growing climbing cactus that produces stunning flowers and exotic, edible fruits. Growing from cuttings is the quickest and most reliable method to propagate Dragon Fruit.

🧬 Foundation

Native to Central and South America, Dragon Fruit thrives in warm climates and well-draining soil. Cuttings grow faster than seeds, fruiting in as little as 18 months with proper care.

🌟 Transformation Promise

By following this guide, you'll learn to:

Successfully root and plant Dragon Fruit cuttings

Build proper support structures for vertical growth

Maintain healthy, productive plants for years

Core Principles

1. Healthy Cutting Selection

Explanation: Choose mature segments 10–18 inches long. Practical Application: Cut from the middle of the parent cactus with sterilized tools. Avoid tips and overly young growth.

2. Callusing is Critical

Explanation: Dragon Fruit cuttings need to form a callus to prevent rot when planted. Practical Application: Allow the cut end to dry in shade for 5–7 days before planting.

3. Vertical Support and Sunlight

Explanation: These climbing cacti require strong support and full sun to thrive. Practical Application: Install trellises or posts and position in at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Most Powerful Methods

Method 1: Rooting and Planting in Containers (Beginner-Friendly)

Description

This method offers full control over soil, watering, and sun exposure.

Step-by-Step:

Cut & Callus: Take a healthy cutting and allow it to callus for 5–7 days in the shade.

Prepare Soil Mix: Use a cactus/succulent mix or a 1:1 blend of sand and compost.

Plant Cutting: Insert 2–3 inches of the cut end into the soil. Plant upright with the original base end downward.

Water Lightly: Mist lightly every few days.

Provide Support: Use a small bamboo stake at first, then move to a strong vertical post once roots establish.

Best Practices:

Water sparingly until rooted (2–4 weeks).

Use pots with drainage holes.

Keep in filtered sun initially; transition to full sun after rooting.

Expected Results:

Root development in 2–4 weeks

New growth in 4–6 weeks

Transplant to garden or large container at 8–10 weeks

Method 2: Direct Outdoor Planting (Tropical/Subtropical Zones)

Description

For those in USDA zones 10–12 or warm, dry climates.

Step-by-Step:

Prepare Site: Choose a sunny spot with good drainage and install a sturdy trellis or vertical post.

Soil Prep: Amend soil as needed; Use sand, compost, and/or perlite for adequate drainage.

Plant Callused Cutting: Place 3–4 inches deep near the base of the support.

Water Lightly: Wait 1–2 days after planting, then water lightly every 3–4 days.

Best Practices:

Mulch with gravel to avoid fungal issues

Stake the cutting initially until it grabs the post

Shield from heavy rain during first two weeks

Expected Results:

Strong roots by week 3–4

Visible growth at 6–8 weeks

First flowering in 6–12 months under ideal conditions

Method 3: Propagation Tray Rooting (For Mass Propagation)

Description

Ideal for rooting many cuttings at once.

Step-by-Step:

Place several callused cuttings upright in a propagation tray with a sand-perlite mix.

Mist daily and keep in indirect sunlight.

Transplant individually after root development (2–4 weeks).

Best Practices:

Label varieties

Space cuttings to prevent mold

Advanced Strategies

Strategy 1: Grafting for Faster Fruiting

Purpose: Encourage faster fruit production using a mature rootstock

Methodology: Graft a cutting onto a rooted Hylocereus base

Tools Needed: Sharp knife, grafting tape

Implementation: Slice angled cuts on both scion and stock, align, and tape for 7–10 days

Strategy 2: Supplemental Lighting (Indoors or Low Sun Areas)

Use full-spectrum LED grow lights on a 12–14 hour cycle

Raise lights as plant grows to prevent legginess

Integration Protocols

Daily Routine

Morning: Check moisture; mist if needed

Midday: Ensure adequate light (natural or artificial)

Evening: Inspect for pests or signs of rot

Weekly Intensive

Clean supports and prune dead segments

Apply compost tea or low-nitrogen fertilizer (after rooting)

Monthly Assessment

Check root zone health and potting depth

Rotate containers for even sun exposure

Obstacle Mastery

Challenge 1: Rotting Cuttings

Cause: Overwatering or not allowing callus to form

Solution: Only plant once callus is fully formed; water minimally

Challenge 2: Weak or No Rooting

Cause: Poor soil or insufficient warmth

Solution: Use well-draining mix and maintain 77–86°F

Challenge 3: Yellowing Segments

Cause: Sunburn or root issues

Solution: Gradually introduce to full sun; check for root rot

Acceleration Factors

Factor 1: Bottom Heat

Root faster by using a propagation heat mat

Factor 2: Rooting Hormone

Dip base in powdered rooting hormone (IBA) before planting

Factor 3: Controlled Humidity

Use mini-greenhouse or plastic cover to retain moisture (remove once rooted)

Measurement and Tracking

Progress Indicators

Internal: Firmness at base

External: Root tips visible, upright new growth

Tracking Methods

Maintain a propagation journal: cutting source, date, environment

Mark pots with plant variety and start date

Specialized Applications

Home Fruit Production: Enjoy fresh fruit from container-grown plants

Living Fence: Train along walls or trellises as edible landscape

Grafting Stock: Base for grafting rare epiphytic cacti

Indoor Decor: Compact ornamental cactus for bright windows

Botanical Education: Fast and visual growth stages for learning

Evidence and Validation

Research Foundation

Studies show Hylocereus species root faster with warmth and low-humidity airflow

Ideal pH: 6.0–6.5; ideal soil texture: sandy loam

Expert Perspectives

Tropical growers emphasize well-draining substrate and gradual light exposure

Vietnamese and Thai farms rely heavily on cutting propagation for yield uniformity

Case Studies

Home growers in USDA zone 9 report fruiting within 12–18 months using 18" cuttings and proper trellising

Indoor enthusiasts succeed with grow lights and 5-gallon fabric pots

Resources and Next Steps

Essential Reading

Growing Dragon Fruit by Richard S. Wallace

UC Agriculture Extension on Pitaya Cultivation

Practical Tools

5-gallon pots with drainage

Perlite, compost, cactus soil mix

Rooting hormone (optional)

PVC or wood trellis

Learning Opportunities

Online propagation workshops

YouTube channels like “Grafting Dragon Fruit” or “California Rare Fruit Growers”

Community Connections

Reddit: r/dragonfruit

Facebook: Dragon Fruit Growers & Enthusiasts

Conclusion

Key Takeaways

Let cuttings callus before planting to prevent rot

Use well-draining soil and avoid overwatering

Provide full sun and strong vertical support

Immediate Next Steps

Source healthy Dragon Fruit cuttings

Prepare your soil mix and planting site or containers

Set your support structure and begin planting

Long-Term Vision

With proper care, a Dragon Fruit plant grown from cutting can yield for 20+ years, producing sweet, exotic fruit—and vibrant blooms—season after season.

Final Motivation

Every cutting holds a future of climbing vines, giant blossoms, and glowing fruit. With care and consistency, your Dragon Fruit garden will become a living masterpiece.

[thatwildyard]

Complete Guide to Germinating Plumeria Seed

Introduction

🌺 Overview

Plumeria, or Frangipani, is a tropical tree famous for its fragrant, five-petaled flowers in a range of colors. Native to the Americas but beloved globally, Plumeria is often propagated from cuttings—but seed propagation allows for the thrill of creating new hybrids and discovering unique traits.

🌱 Foundation

Plumeria seeds are easy to germinate when fresh and viable. Germinating from seed gives plants with a taproot system, often stronger than cutting-grown ones. Seedlings typically flower in 1.5 to 3 years.

🌟 Transformation Promise

By the end of this guide, you’ll be able to:

Identify viable Plumeria seeds

Select and execute the best germination method

Avoid common seedling pitfalls

Nurture young plants into flowering trees

Core Principles

1. Seed Viability

Explanation: Plumeria seeds degrade quickly. Fresh seeds have the highest germination rate. Action: Obtain seeds from reputable sellers or harvest from a mature pod and sow immediately.

2. Proper Orientation

Explanation: Plumeria seeds have a winged tip that orients their position. Action: Plant vertically with the wingtip upward and the thicker root end down in soil.

3. Controlled Environment

Explanation: Warmth and humidity drive germination. Action: Maintain 25–30°C (77–86°F) temperature and consistent moisture without overwatering.

Most Powerful Methods

Method 1: Soak and Sow (Recommended for Beginners)

Step-by-Step:

Soak seeds in warm water for 12–24 hours to rehydrate and soften the seed coat.

Prepare seed trays or small pots with a light, well-draining mix (e.g., perlite + coco coir or cactus mix).

Plant seeds ¼ inch deep with the wing sticking out.

Mist surface and cover with a humidity dome or plastic wrap.

Place in bright, indirect light—avoid full sun initially.

Germination typically occurs in 5–14 days.

Best Practices:

Use fresh, labeled seeds and track batches.

Keep the medium slightly moist but not soggy.

Vent the dome once a day to prevent mold.

Expected Results: High success rate with fresh seeds; fast root and stem emergence.

Method 2: Paper Towel Germination

Step-by-Step:

Soak seeds for 12 hours in warm water.

Place seeds between two damp (not soaking) paper towels.

Put in a ziplock bag or airtight container.

Store in a warm, dark location (25–28°C / 77–82°F).

Check every 2–3 days for germination signs (swelling, root tip).

Once roots are ½–1 inch long, transfer carefully to soil.

Best Practices:

Add a drop of hydrogen peroxide to soaking water to reduce fungal risk.

Use sterile tweezers to handle sprouting seeds.

Expected Results: Great for monitoring individual seeds; easy to discard non-viables.

Method 3: Direct Outdoor Sowing (Tropical Zones Only)

Step-by-Step:

Choose a well-draining garden bed or large planter.

Sow seeds in filtered sunlight.

Protect from slugs, rain, and cold.

Mist daily during germination window (7–20 days).

Thin out weaker seedlings after sprouting.

Best Practices:

Best in spring/summer with night temps above 21°C (70°F).

Mark rows and label crosses if using hybrid seeds.

Expected Results: Strong seedlings with natural sunlight exposure; variable rates depending on weather.

Advanced Strategies

Strategy 1: Hormonal Boost (Seaweed Extract)

Purpose: Stimulate root growth and stress resistance. Methodology: Add diluted liquid seaweed to initial soak or water during early stages.

Strategy 2: Scarification (if seed coat is hard)

Purpose: Improve water penetration in older or stored seeds. Methodology: Lightly sand the thick end or nick with a knife before soaking.

Strategy 3: Warm Germination Mats

Purpose: Provide bottom heat for faster germination. Methodology: Place seed trays on a heat mat set to 26–30°C.

Integration Protocols

Daily Routine

Morning: Check and mist medium lightly if dry

Midday: Rotate trays for even light exposure

Evening: Observe for fungus, adjust air circulation

Weekly Intensive

Clean humidity domes and trays

Remove moldy seeds immediately

Fertilize ¼ strength once true leaves appear

Monthly Milestone Check

Seedling height: 2–4 inches

Root development: Transplant to individual pots if crowded

Begin sunlight hardening after 3–4 weeks

Obstacle Mastery

🌫️ Problem: Mold on Seeds

Fix: Use cinnamon dust or hydrogen peroxide spray; increase ventilation.

🌧️ Problem: Rotting Seeds

Fix: Ensure good drainage, don’t oversaturate medium.

🌱 Problem: Seed Swelled but No Sprout

Fix: May be too cold or old—move to warmer spot or discard if soft and mushy.

Troubleshooting Table:

Mold on towel or soil: Poor airflow/humidity

Vent daily, sterilize tools

Weak, leggy seedlings: Insufficient light

Move to brighter area (filtered sun)

No germination at all: Old/non-viable seeds

Use fresh seeds, test with float test

Acceleration Factors

Warmth: Ideal 26–30°C speeds up emergence

Moisture balance: Even humidity is key—avoid wet/dry cycling

Quality substrate: Fast-draining mix prevents rot

Measurement and Tracking

Internal Signs: Seed swelling and coat cracking

External Signs: Root and shoot emerging within 1–2 weeks

Documentation: Use seed-starting log (date, source, method, results)

Milestones:

Week 1–2: Root appears

Week 2–3: Cotyledons open

Month 1–2: Transplanting size (3–6 inches tall)

Specialized Applications

Hybrid Cultivar Development: Grow unique colors and flower forms

Bonsai-Style Plumeria: Compact indoor trees from seed

Classroom Propagation Projects: Fast results for student activities

Conservation Projects: Support genetic diversity in wild types

Botanical Display Gardens: Showcase custom-grown specimens

Evidence and Validation

Research Foundation

Plumeria seeds are short-lived, requiring prompt sowing.

Germination studies show optimal results with warm, consistently moist conditions and partial light.

Expert Opinions

Horticulturists and tropical plant growers recommend pre-soaking and using heat mats for reliable germination.

The Plumeria Society of America emphasizes genetic variability in seed-grown trees and the importance of tracking traits.

Case Studies

Home growers report >90% success using soaked seeds and the paper towel method.

Greenhouse growers find faster, stronger seedlings when started on heat mats in sterile mix.

Resources and Next Steps

Essential Tools

Shallow trays with domes

Perlite, coco coir, cactus mix

Hydrogen peroxide, cinnamon powder

Heat mat (optional)

Recommended Reading

Plumeria: Cultivating Beauty in the Tropics by Richard Eggenberger

The Plumeria Society of America resources

Community Connections

Facebook: Plumeria Addicts, Plumeria Society groups

Forums: r/Plumeria, GardenWeb Frangipani section

Learning Opportunities

Workshops at tropical plant nurseries

Online courses in tropical plant propagation

Conclusion

Key Takeaways

Use fresh seeds and soak them before sowing.

Maintain warm, moist conditions for best germination.

Track your methods for future improvement and hybridization.

Immediate Next Steps

Acquire viable Plumeria seeds

Choose a germination method that fits your setup

Prepare your substrate and tools, and start germinating today

Long-Term Vision

Growing Plumeria from seed lets you shape a blooming legacy—potentially discovering new flower colors and fragrances the world has never seen.

Final Encouragement

Each seed is a universe of possibility. With patience, care, and consistency, you’ll soon be rewarded with the lush leaves and unforgettable fragrance of your very own Plumeria tree.

[thatwildyard]

Complete Guide to Germinating Clivia Seed

Introduction

Overview

Clivia is a genus of flowering plants native to South Africa, known for their stunning trumpet-shaped flowers and attractive strappy foliage. Popular as shade-tolerant houseplants, Clivias are typically grown from offsets—but growing them from seed is a rewarding way to produce new varieties and cultivate strong, vigorous plants.

Foundation

Clivia seeds are large, fleshy, and quick to germinate when fresh. They don’t require dormancy-breaking techniques like many other seeds but do need warmth, moisture, and cleanliness. Seed-grown Clivias may take 3–5 years to flower, but offer stronger root systems and potential genetic variation.

Transformation Promise

By mastering this guide, you'll be able to:

Harvest, clean, and prepare Clivia seeds

Set up optimal conditions for germination

Avoid common pitfalls like rot and fungal infections

Cultivate seedlings into strong, blooming plants

Core Principles

1. Seed Freshness

Explanation: Clivia seeds lose viability quickly and should be sown as soon as possible after harvesting. Practical Application: Source or collect seeds no more than 2–4 months old and store them in moist conditions until sowing.

2. Sterility and Cleanliness

Explanation: Due to their fleshy nature, Clivia seeds are prone to fungal infection. Practical Application: Use sterilized tools, trays, and media; disinfect seeds with a mild bleach or hydrogen peroxide solution.

3. Warm, Moist Conditions

Explanation: Clivia seeds germinate best at warm temperatures (20–25°C / 68–77°F) in high humidity. Practical Application: Use a seed tray or plastic container with lid to maintain warmth and humidity.

Most Powerful Methods

Method 1: Paper Towel Germination

Description: Clean, controlled method for visual tracking and early transplanting.

Step-by-Step Process:

Rinse seeds thoroughly to remove pulp.

Soak in 10% bleach solution for 10 minutes (optional but recommended).

Moisten a paper towel and lay seeds inside.

Place towel in a ziplock bag or sealed container.

Store in a warm, dark place (22–25°C).

Check every 3–5 days for mold or sprouting.

Best Practices:

Label bags with sowing date.

Vent containers weekly to reduce mold risk.

Transfer to soil when roots are 1–2 cm long.

Common Mistakes:

Too much moisture leading to rot.

Allowing the towel to dry out.

Not sanitizing seeds.

Expected Results: Germination in 10–21 days. Roots and shoots emerge clearly before soil transfer.

Method 2: Direct Sowing in Substrate

Description: Simpler and more natural method for germinating directly in soil.

Step-by-Step Process:

Prepare a sterile seedling mix (peat + perlite or coconut coir).

Plant each seed 1 cm deep with the flattened side ("eye" side) down.

Water gently and cover with plastic wrap or humidity dome.

Place in warm, bright (but not direct sun) area.

Monitor moisture levels daily.

Best Practices:

Use shallow trays for air circulation.

Keep media evenly moist, not soggy.

Transplant to larger pots when leaves are 5–10 cm tall.

Common Mistakes:

Poor drainage causing fungal issues.

Letting the soil dry out completely.

Using old or damaged seeds.

Expected Results: Germination typically begins in 2–4 weeks, with first leaf appearing in 1–2 months.

Method 3: Hydroponic (Water Cup) Start

Description: A minimalist, experimental method for early-stage germination.

Step-by-Step Process:

Rinse seeds and place in shallow water dish.

Keep water level just touching the seed bottom.

Change water every 2 days.

Maintain temperature around 23°C (73°F).

Best Practices:

Add a drop of hydrogen peroxide to the water.

Move seeds to soil as soon as root emerges.

Common Mistakes:

Leaving seeds in water too long (root rot).

Using cold or stagnant water.

Expected Results: Roots emerge in 7–14 days, suitable for small batches or classroom use.

Advanced Strategies

Strategy 1: Mycorrhizal Inoculation Post-Germination

Purpose: Promote strong root development. Methodology: Apply beneficial fungi to soil when transplanting. Tools Needed: Commercial mycorrhizal inoculant. Implementation: Dust roots lightly or mix into potting soil.

Strategy 2: Selective Breeding from Seedlings

Purpose: Cultivate desirable traits (color, foliage, form). Methodology: Record traits of flowering plants and selectively cross. Tools Needed: Tags, breeding log, patience. Implementation: Takes several years to bear fruit.

Integration Protocols

Daily Routine

Morning: Check humidity, mist if dry.

Daytime: Rotate containers for even warmth.

Evening: Observe for mold or root growth.

Weekly Intensive

Change paper towels if needed.

Discard moldy or non-viable seeds.

Take growth notes.

Monthly Assessment

Evaluate leaf development.

Begin fertilizing lightly after second leaf.

Obstacle Mastery

Challenge 1: Mold Growth

Solution: Use sterile conditions, bleach soak, and vent containers weekly.

Challenge 2: Rotting Seeds

Solution: Reduce moisture, avoid soaking for too long, and ensure drainage.

Challenge 3: Stunted Growth

Solution: Transplant to nutrient-rich soil and begin light feeding after 2–3 months.

Troubleshooting Guide:

Seed swelled but no root: May be too cold or lacking oxygen—raise temp and ventilate.

Root emerged but stopped growing: Check for moisture levels or fungal infection.

No activity in 30 days: Test seed viability by gently squeezing—discard if mushy.

Acceleration Factors

Factor 1: Use of Growth Stimulants

Application: Coconut water, kelp extract, or dilute seaweed tea can promote germination.

Factor 2: Controlled Temperature Ranges

Application: Consistent 23–25°C environment speeds germination and root development.

Factor 3: Germination Logging and Batch Trials

Application: Record data across methods to identify best-performing techniques over time.

Measurement and Tracking

Progress Indicators

Internal Signs: Swelling and splitting of seed coat.

External Manifestations: Emergence of root and first leaf.

Milestone Timeline

1 Week: Swelling begins

2–4 Weeks: Roots and shoots emerge

2 Months: First leaves 2–4 inches tall

1 Year: Seedling strong enough to begin flowering size development

Tracking Methods

Assessment Tools: Daily photo log or journal

Documentation Systems: Spreadsheet for germination % and days

Review Protocols: Compare seed sources and method results monthly

Specialized Applications

Home-grown Clivia cultivars for indoor gardens

Breeding programs for color and bloom variation

Botanical education and propagation classes

Genetic research on seed-based variation

Conservation propagation of wild Clivia species

Evidence and Validation

Research Foundation

Clivia seeds are recalcitrant (do not tolerate drying), which supports immediate sowing practices.

Studies in South African Journal of Botany show high germination rates in moist-warm settings.

Expert Perspectives

Horticulturalists recommend avoiding cold stratification; sow fresh seeds immediately.

Clivia Society members often use the paper towel method for maximum control.

Case Studies

Growers in USDA Zones 9–11 report >90% germination success with fresh seeds using paper towel method.

Botanical gardens favor direct-sow methods in sterile peat-based mixes.

Theoretical Framework

Clivia’s germination is governed by hydration and ambient temperature, not dormancy. Fungal risk is the main barrier, so sanitation is the scientific basis for success.

Resources and Next Steps

Essential Reading

Clivia by Harold Koopowitz

Clivia Society Germination Handbook (available online)

Practical Tools

Plastic trays with lids

Hydrogen peroxide or bleach

Coco coir, perlite, peat moss

Learning Opportunities

Clivia Society annual meetings

Propagation classes at botanical gardens

Community Connections

Clivia Forum on GardenWeb

Reddit’s r/clivia and r/houseplants

Expert Guidance

Join the International Clivia Society

Consult with specialist growers at rare plant nurseries

Conclusion

Key Takeaways

Clivia seeds are quick to germinate but sensitive to rot

Freshness and cleanliness are critical

Multiple methods work well—choose based on your setup

Immediate Next Steps

Source fresh Clivia seeds

Choose and prepare your germination method

Monitor moisture and warmth daily

Long-Term Vision

With care and consistency, you can grow flowering Clivia plants from seed in just a few years—offering blooms and beauty unique to your efforts.

[thatwildyard]

🌱 Complete Guide to Planting Epiphyllum Seed

🌸 Introduction

Overview

Epiphyllum, commonly known as orchid cactus, belongs to the cactus family but defies the typical desert cactus image. It thrives in tropical conditions and produces large, fragrant, and vibrant flowers. Growing them from seed allows for hybridization and deep involvement in the life cycle of a remarkable plant.

Foundation

Native to Central and South American rainforests, Epiphyllums grow as epiphytes, meaning they anchor themselves on trees without parasitizing them. Understanding their natural environment—warmth, filtered light, and humidity—is key to successful cultivation from seed.

Transformation Promise

By following this guide, you'll be equipped to:

Germinate Epiphyllum seeds successfully.

Cultivate seedlings into healthy, blooming plants.

Understand and manage the entire lifecycle for propagation or hybridization.

🌿 Core Principles

🌞 Principle 1: Light and Environment

Explanation

Epiphyllum seeds need indirect light and consistent humidity for germination, mimicking rainforest conditions.

Practical Application

Use a humidity dome or plastic cover to maintain moisture.

Provide bright, filtered light, avoiding direct sun which can overheat seedlings.

💧 Principle 2: Moisture Management

Explanation

Seeds require constant, but not soggy, moisture. Overwatering leads to rot; underwatering halts germination.

Practical Application

Use a spray bottle to mist.

Ensure drainage holes in containers.

Use moist, not wet seed-starting mix.

🕰️ Principle 3: Patience and Time

Explanation

Germination can take 2 to 8 weeks, and flowering from seed may take 3–5 years.

Practical Application

Set up a routine care schedule.

Track progress in a journal.

Celebrate small milestones, like first germination.

🔧 Most Powerful Methods

🌱 Method 1: Standard Seed Germination in Trays

Description

The most reliable technique using seed trays with domes for controlled humidity.

Step-by-Step Process

Fill tray with fine seed-starting mix (peat, perlite, vermiculite).

Sprinkle seeds evenly over the surface—do not bury them.

Mist gently to moisten.

Cover with clear plastic or place under a humidity dome.

Place in bright, indirect light at 70–80°F (21–27°C).

Ventilate daily to prevent mold.

Transplant when seedlings are large enough to handle.

Best Practices

Label each tray with the seed variety and date.

Use sterile tools and medium.

Keep an eye on mold; treat with cinnamon or fungicide if needed.

Common Mistakes

Burying seeds too deep.

Letting medium dry out.

Overcrowding.

Expected Results

Germination within 2–6 weeks; healthy seedlings by 3 months.

🌿 Method 2: Sphagnum Moss Germination

Description

An alternative that retains moisture longer and reduces rot.

Step-by-Step Process

Moisten long-fiber sphagnum moss (not soaking wet).

Spread moss in a container.

Scatter seeds on top.

Mist and cover with plastic wrap or dome.

Place in bright, warm spot.

Transplant to potting mix once established.

Best Practices

Use live or sterilized moss to prevent damping-off.

Ideal for rare or expensive seeds.

Common Mistakes

Moss that is too compact or dry.

Poor air circulation.

Expected Results

Comparable germination time, easier humidity management.

🌡️Heat Mat Germination Boost

Description

Enhances germination by maintaining consistent bottom warmth.

Step-by-Step Process

Place tray on seedling heat mat.

Set thermostat to 75–80°F (24–27°C).

Monitor regularly.

Best Practices

Use a mat with thermostatic control.

Combine with humidity dome for best results.

Common Mistakes

Overheating leading to fungal growth.

Forgetting to check moisture more frequently.

Expected Results

Improved germination time and uniformity.

🚀 Advanced Strategies

Strategy 1: Hybridization Through Seed Collection

Purpose: Develop unique hybrids.

Methodology: Hand-pollinate and collect seeds.

Tools Needed: Soft brush, labeled bags, sterilized containers.

Implementation: Document crosses, dry and store seeds properly.

Strategy 2: Seed Dormancy Break Techniques

Purpose: Improve germination rate.

Methodology: Use soaking, scarification, or GA3 treatment.

Tools Needed: GA3 hormone, soaking containers.

Implementation: Soak for 6–12 hours before planting.

Strategy 3: Photoperiod Manipulation

Purpose: Encourage flowering in mature seedlings.

Methodology: Adjust light exposure to mimic seasonal cues.

Tools Needed: Grow lights with timers.

Implementation: Gradually reduce daylight hours.

🔄 Integration Protocols

Daily Routine

Morning: Mist seeds, check temperature.

Throughout Day: Light monitoring, mold watch.

Evening: Final mist and check for condensation.

Weekly Intensive

Sanitize dome lids and check for fungal growth.

Rotate trays for light exposure.

Monthly Assessment

Record germination stats.

Thin out weak seedlings.

🧱 Obstacle Mastery

Challenge 1: Mold and Fungus

Solution: Ventilation, cinnamon, sterile practices.

Challenge 2: Low Germination Rates

Solution: Fresh seeds, pre-treatment (soaking, GA3).

Challenge 3: Seedling Damping-Off

Solution: Avoid overwatering, use sterile medium.

Troubleshooting Guide

If no sprouts in 8 weeks: check temperature and light.

Mold? Increase airflow, reduce humidity slightly.

⚡ Acceleration Factors

Factor 1: Bottom Heat

Use a heat mat regularly.

Factor 2: Fresh Seed Viability

Use seeds within 1 year of harvesting.

Factor 3: Mycorrhizal Inoculants

Boosts root development when seedlings are transplanted.

📏 Measurement and Tracking

Progress Indicators

Internal: Seed swell, green sprout tips.

External: Visible leaf pads after 4–6 weeks.

Tracking Methods

Assessment Tools: Germination log.

Documentation Systems: Spreadsheet or garden journal.

Review Protocols: Monthly progress check-in.

🌍 Specialized Applications

Home propagation for rare or exotic species.

Hybrid creation for breeders.

Educational purposes in botany or horticulture.

Orchid cactus farming at scale.

Botanical research on epiphytic germination behavior.

📚 Evidence and Validation

Research: Botanical studies on epiphyllous seed behavior (e.g., Kew Gardens data).

Expert Insights: Cactus and Succulent Society of America guidelines.

Case Studies: Home growers documenting success via seed in 3–4 years.

Theoretical Framework: Seed germination physiology and epiphytic plant ecology.

📘 Resources and Next Steps

Essential Reading

The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson

Cactus and Succulent Journal archives

Practical Tools

Heat mats, humidity domes, sterile trays, seed-starting mix

Learning Opportunities

Online forums (e.g., Epiphyllum Society of America)

YouTube channels by expert growers

Community Connections

Reddit’s r/Cactus

Local botanical garden clubs

Expert Guidance

Seek mentorship in cactus societies or botanical conservatories

✅ Conclusion

Key Takeaways

Moisture, warmth, and light are essential.

Use patience and precision to guide growth.

Seed propagation opens doors to unique hybrids and deep satisfaction.

Immediate Next Steps

Source fresh Epiphyllum seeds.

Prepare germination trays or sphagnum moss.

Set up lighting and temperature controls.

Long-Term Vision

From a tiny seed, a spectacular flowering cactus will bloom— with your unique touch as a hybridizer or grower.

Final Motivation

🌼 “He who plants a seed, plants hope.” With care, knowledge, and patience, you'll witness life unfold from your own hands.

[thatwildyard]

A Master List, Of All The Socials & Sales Platforms

Different ones have different deals, as some items do better than others at each platform. Your best bet is to buy from me through my pinned post, but if you’d like to browse my eBay auctions, etc, DO bare in mind that each of your likes, shares and of course purchases help me so much. Even the traffic from the views and likes help to algorithms (and ultimately lead to more sales!) So thank you in advance for any clicks you can give me on your favorite platform 💚

FB Marketplace

Etsy

eBay

Whatnot

YouTube

^Mostly some kind of janky tutorials, will be updating and improving any day now, promise 😅

IG

^Mostly Epiphyllum

Pinterest

^Aaaand plant care sheets for epiphytes, apple cactus and planting epi seed on my Pinterest

[thatwildyard]

Deals Deals Deals

After getting so much abuse at pretty much ALL of the sales platforms this year, I decided to make a page here in the hopes of retaining some sort of following without all of the algorithms, scams, and hassles.

Please check back often, I am hoping to grow this page as I gain traction.

These are my rock bottom prices and deals, which I can offer here without the 3rd party overhead. If you’d like to make a wholesale purchase, please contact for pricing. If you’ve bought from me before and are comfortable, please feel free to purchase here. Please be prepared to use a fee-free service like Venmo or Zelle, or, prepared to pay associated fees on your end.

If you have any questions, I’m always here. Contact directly at (((username))) at gmail dot com.

Epiphyllum Seeds, $5ea pack + $1 shipping in stamped envelope (no tracking) or $5 tracked parcel shipping for unlimited seeds within US, $6 shipping anywhere else in the world. Ships FREE within US with any other item purchase.

Dragon Fruit Cutting Set, $15 + $8 ground sh

Center Cut Peruvian Apple Cactus, $12 + $12 ground shipping

Tippy Top Peruvian Apple Cactus, $20+ $12 ground

Plumeria Cuttings, limited time!

Celedine @10ea

Madame Poni or Royal Hawaiian@ 20ea

Plus $12 priority mail sh for up to 5 cuttings.

Drop an email my way with your order, any questions, or with your zip for a quote with combined shipping.