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Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture

Guo Pei, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There are times where we want fashion to be a slightly elevated version of the everyday, and then there are times where you just need the technical skill, unmitigated escapism and pure spectacle. The collections of Guo Pei, with intricate textiles and atelier craft, are a prime example of […]

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#Design Details #Fabrics and Textiles #brocade #guo pei #haute couture #Paris #PFW #reverse textiles

Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe

Loewe, AW20, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, featured fabric that had been draped and gathered around central ceramic disks or bold matte black central panels. The fabric sections were often carefully segmented and draped individually to draw around these panels, and in turn, draw the eye of the viewer in […]

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#Design Details #Pattern Making #autumn winter #AW20 #ceramic #drape #gathers #Jonathan Anderson #loe

Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake, AW20, Paris. The Issey Miyake Autumn-Winter 2020 collection led by designer Satoshi Kondo, was made up of a series of smaller stories. These stories explored the "words and feelings derived naturally from the process of making things by hand" as a series of mini-collections with interconnected details. Overall, this resulted in a collection […]

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#Design Details #Fabrics and Textiles #A-POC #autumn winter #AW20 #issey miyake #knitwear #monochrome

A Modular Anrealage Silhouette Through Blocks

Anrealage, AW20, Paris. So often a collection is developed from a point where the initial spark is directly related to the final outcome. Like asking a question and knowing roughly what the answer will be. For example, a designer might develop a pattern from the shape of the body, be inspired by the drape of […]

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#Design Details #Pattern Making #Sewing and Construction #anrealage #autumn winter #AW20 #knitwear #k

The Rule of Thirds Applied to JW Anderson

JW Anderson, London, AW20. It can be a fun game (depending on your idea of "fun", of course) to look at the proportions of the looks when you are clicking through the images on a collection. Just like the way that certain photography compositions look more pleasing to the eye based on the 'rule of thirds'», […]

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#Design Details #autumn winter #AW20 #design theory #Jonathan Anderson #JW Anderson #london #proporti

Integrated Jewellery and Lingerie Details at Dion Lee

Dion Lee, AW20, New York. With fishnet inserts, cutouts, and corset-like closures the Dion Lee show for Autumn-Winter 2020 was peppered with references to lingerie. Custom-made jewellery and hardware also meant that chain elements were often integrated into the design of the pieces, at times challenging the typical anchor points of garments. Corsetry references came […]

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#Design Details #AW20 #chain #dion lee #hook and eye #jewellery #lingerie #tailoring

Craig Green Quilted Jacket Details

Craig Green Quilted Jacket, SS20. You have to wonder if there is a psychological advantage to wearing a Craig Green quilted jacket. The quilted sections are like soft armour plates to protect you from the outside world, and when seen in a pink colourway, they look vaguely like the sinewy muscles on an anatomical illustration […]

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#Design Details #Fabrics and Textiles #Pattern Making #Sewing and Construction #collars #craig green

Slightly Dropped Shoulders at The Row

The Row, PF20. Quiet, minimal collections usually require slower viewing to appreciate the details because it is the small tweaks that make the difference. In the case of The Row's Pre Fall 2020 collection, there was a very slightly dropped shoulder that looks carefully shaped to create a gently rounded silhouette. Experimentation with shoulder silhouettes […]

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#Design Details #Pattern Making #dropped shoulder #jackets #knitwear #PF20 #Setting Sleeves #shirt #s

Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There is a certain romanticised view of what haute couture entails - hard-working ateliers full of petite mains, painstakingly cutting every last snip of fabric, and sewing every last stitch by hand. There is a place in fashion, of course, for this preservation of tradition, but in 2020 […]

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#Design Details #Fabrics and Textiles #Pattern Making #3D modelling #3D printing #CAD #couture #coutu

Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams

Bethany Williams, AW20, Menswear, London. While some designers and brands attempt to add a sustainable component to an existing fashion business, Bethany Williams has been steadily working on building a business where her approach to sustainability is intrinsic to the structure and motivation of the business. The sustainability in her work is also multi-faceted - […]

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#Design Details #Fabrics and Textiles #AW20 #bethany williams #london #organic #recycled #sustainabil