Domaine Chevrot 'Sur le Chêne' Maranges 2011
The Burgundy Wine Shop is, unfortunately, only a couple of blocks away from work. With some unexpected good news about our Australian Tax Returns, I headed up one Friday afternoon with a strict budget, pleading complete ignorance for the wines of Burgundy and asked them to put together a mixed half-dozen for me.
I'd written previously about classed growth (premier cru, grand cru) grapes being something of an indicator of quality. Well, as it turns out, it's not quite as simple as that (of course!) Some unscrupulous winemakers with access to these high quality grapes let the classification do the work for them, rather than put in much effort themselves, making some of these wines very poor value for money. The opposite is true of some village or regional level wines, where in an effort to establish or impress, some producers really overachieve.
The guys at the store were patient and accommodating, explaining that you really need to know the different villages within Burgundy first (akin to Greenock, Marananga, Vine Vale & Seppeltsfield in the Barossa, for example), as they all had different styles, and then get to know the actual wine producers (such as Torbreck, Rockford, Charlie Melton, etc) to work out where your preferences lie.
So bearing all of this in mind, to accompany tonight's dinner of roasted salmon we opened & decanted first of our half doz (4 reds & 2 whites), a Village level Pinot Noir from the southernmost village in the Cote de Beaune, Maranges, from the producer Domaine Chevrot.
Color: a beautiful clear light crimson. For some reason I really quite like the color of this wine. No brickish tint at the edge, in line with it being a relatively youthful wine (although recommended for early drinking)
Nose: a plate full of fresh cherries here, suggesting that this is going to be a lighter style of pinot. It's really opened up after being in the decanter a while (I'm writing this after dinner, with the last of it in my glass..) Initially it seemed a bit green & stalky, which I have been told is suggestive of whole bunch fermentation, something that is often done with Pinot to stimulate a bit of complexity, rather than destemming the grapes.
Palate: Again this has developed as the wine has opened up. Red berry spectrum, pretty much bang on cherry fruit, it's quite an elegant, measured & structured wine - an attribute of the acid I believe - which means that it's not delivering a great fruit hit at the front of the palate, but more about consistency of flavour over the length of the wine. Quite savoury, and although Ester didn't really think much of it initially, she did concede that it was much better as a food wine..
Finish: The tannins are soft, I don't find it particularly oaky, and the finish is quite long and nice. It's a bit of a textural wine,
And so as a wine that accompanied a salmon dish, it's turned out to be quite appropriate (maybe as the acidity has balanced the richness of the fish) and as it's opened up in the decanter, become more interesting as we've gone on. The palate has flattened and lengthened, but it's remained just the slightest bit aloof, almost as if not wanting to share all its attributes with me at once (I'm starting to waffle, this I'm told is also a side effect of Burgundy, although maybe its possible that I'm just a little pissed as well...)
Maranges is by no means one of the more highly regarded villages in the Cote de Beaune region of Burgundy, and I think Ester & I both like the somewhat fuller & funkier Pinots, but as an introduction to one of the many styles of this region, we could certainly do worse... much more interesting than the Oregon Pinot we had, that's for sure..