Shanghai World Expo: Shiny but Hollow
The first I heard about the World Expo was actually on this blog, thanks to Joe's recommendation that I visit during my stay in China this summer. And I was not in the minority, considering most Westerners have no clue that a World Expo has been underway for almost four months now. However, hop 12 hours East and you can't go a day without word of the Expo! Seriously, I was in a mall in Beijing and there were about 20 locals crowded around a tiny tv in the back of a shop, watching looped video coverage of the Expo...and I passed them in the same spots 35 minutes later...
Luckily, this July I spent six hours on a Sunday traversing the over 5 square kilometer Expo ground, and came away with the awe of having just seen the greatest carnival ride of my life. I was ready the whole time for a guy to hop out from behind a screen and say "ahaha you caught us, it's all just smoke and mirrors." Because there was something just off about the whole thing. The fairgrounds and architecture themselves were mind-blowing, don't get me wrong. Some of the most diverse, creative and just plain amazing architecture I've ever seen. From Denmark's spiraling white conch shell-like building (that visitors could bike up) to England's perplexing explosion-y structure (it's like someone put a gaussian blur on what would have been a boring grey cube), viewing the structures was worth the price of admission alone...which was about $25 USD for the day, pretty reasonable.
And of course China made sure that their pavilion dominated the rest, with a massive red pagoda that housed within it a series of pavilions for each province. These provincial pavilions were each the size of another country's entire structure! Surprisingly, the wait to get into the China Pavilion was only about 30 minutes (compared to the average wait time of over 1.5 hours for any other country's pavilion). And inside was one of the greatest displays of technology I've ever seen, with bright lights and swirls of neon everywhere. It was definitely something for the Chinese people to be proud of...and they were. The Expo teamed with Chinese people, especially the China Pavilion, to the point where our group of 10 were often the only foreign delegation to be seen.
The USA was represented at the Expo, however the government's policy of not funding a pavilion meant that it had to be completely corporate-sponsored. As such, visitors to the USA pavilion were greeted by the likes of Microsoft, KFC and Pizza Hut...even the no-smoking signs were sponsored by Pfizer! And at the end you could purchase cowboy hats, star-spangled beach balls and stuffed buffalos carrying American flags.
Maybe you can start to feel what was wrong with the whole thing? At least in my opinion...there was no soul! Each pavilion was just an exercise in bombast and grandeur, a shiny but hollow shell. Sure it was wonderful to walk around and be dazzled by the amazing architecture and technology, but for an event that brought an unprecedented number of countries together (over 190) I felt and saw almost no exchange of culture, nor honest application of the Expo's theme: Better City, Better Life. I'll admit I was able to enter very few of the pavilions due to the extreme wait times (I'm told it would take over a week to visit all pavilions), and apparently some countries do uphold the theme and spirit of the expo. Russia highlights their advances in nuclear power technologies, including off-shore, floating nuclear power plants.
But overall the pavilions were empty. And in the case of the Finland Pavilion I mean that literally, it was just a massive egg with nothing in it. China was the worst offender, considering it encompassed over 13 pavilions for each province. The wait times for some of these indoor pavilions (though remember they rivaled other countries' pavilions in size) ran over 2 hours, with the payoff often being a ten-minute video extolling the wonderful qualities of the region but not really highlighting any specific cultural elements. Or take the North Korean pavilion, which had almost no wait so we had time to go in, inside was just a small obelisk in front of a photo of a city pasted on the wall. On the opposing walls were a small covered pagoda and a fountain depicting children. None of this had any signage (in any language) indicating what was being viewed or the significance of it. Of course, as with all pavilions, it all ushered into a gift shop at the end, which I did find kinda amusing.
In the end I left the pavilions, and the Expo itself without any great cultural revelation, without any more appreciation of any country, and sadly without even a greater sense of connectivity or spirit or support for global connectivity. I felt really as if I had left a great carnival ride, impressive and striking but ultimately cardboard and forgettable. A World Expo to me should celebrate cultural sharing and global connectivity, as well as usher-in further advances in those realms. But as far as I'm aware, this Expo does neither. If the pavilions could talk, to me they'd be shouting "Look at me! I exist!" Though they'd do it in the most beautiful voice you've ever heard.
(Cuba's Pavilion housed a bar...and that's it)