third year

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(IN)VISIBLE WASTE

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Making one big yarn:

50 mins

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Responses from employers who work at the Studio

“We archive all the prints that haven't been sold and reuse them when they fit the style that a company is looking for. We do not throw them away. The only waste we produce are the blank spaces from the printed fabric and rests of tape. I would say each week we produce 2 bag full of that kind of waste.” Montse

“Some scraps of fabric cut offs are being used as cleaning cloth. From the printed samples in general nothing is thrown away because there might be the chance to sell it years later after if has been produced. Some old samples are given away to close customers if requested for their sampling/moodboards. Some samples have been kept for about 8 years (and still not sold) but they are not thrown away.

The fabric scraps are stored in boxes in the studio.

We produce around 2 square meter of waste per week. Or more during busy times. This waste stems from cut offs of the fabric roll and is mostly made out of white silk. 

This waste has no use for the company.” Anna-Maria

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Tutorial Ruby 14.3.2017

Now I have to define my role. 

Material, social engagement, landfill? - link these together.

The studio as a waste source within a time frame.

Define a mechanism for this waste that feeds back into the studio?

Making use of this time cycle (every week they produce two bags of this material)

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Notes about re-weaving textiles:

- the fabric belongs to the finish and dye stage (fabric production)

- it is being woven so it does not go to landfill - upcycled

(what do consumers have to do with pre-consumer waste? how do they relate?)

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Pre consumer w a s t e

“Cooklin estimates the average waste to be 15 percent of total fabric used”

“waste reduction is always preferable to recycling or disposal”

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Tutorial with Martin 6/3/2017

Suggestions

- make another timeline??

- select stakeholders/audience to define the concept better

- produce a performance for one audience? and then produce an artefact for another audience? (Eg: have the people in the factory stitching the message??) distribute different chores to the different stakeholders, that way they bring their own identity in 

- engage with politics people instead of actors- sustainability activists

- find data - how many clippings? millends? cutouts? - can I do anything with this to build my message?

Think about

who would you like to benefit from your project?

who’s got the most to loose in the process of this?

who’s making the waste?

do they even think they’re making any waste at all during the process? or do they think they’re being economical with their materials?

how to target the different audiences?

is this about sending multiple messages to different people? one message to the whole industry?

IMPORTANT

designing with particular idea in mind

what story do i want to tell?

Look at

- maypole - what people do to celebrate spring/dance

- NAMES Project AIDS Memorial Quilt - 80’s demonstration where people made memorial quilts for people who died of hiv and aids

- community knitting

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Tutorial with Dash  6/3/2017

This tutorial raised interesting points relating to the following concerns:

this is a collaborative production process // customisation into materiality

DISCURSIVE PERSPECTIVE 

- participants telling stories about their part of the production within the performance

- narrative of production coming through the act of making?

OUTPUT 

- what is their benefit? is it interesting for them? what do people gain from participating and discussing these issues? 

- how would people feel a part of this?

- what else happens there to make it interesting?

MATERIALITY

- maybe use the set space for the performance? attach the yarns to elements in the space

CONCLUSIONS

what new knowledge am i creating?

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WORK IN PROGRESS

- how can this big weave grow? both materially and in number of participants?

- how to film the performance? - what do i want to communicate? and from which viewpoint?

- how will people interact? choreographed? natural? 

- is location relevant? where?

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Stakeholders / Journey / stages of a garment

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Big Weave testing:

length between warp yarns need to be small, more fabric on the weft yarn, maybe make a device to roll the weft yarn around? (big scale version of a bobbin)

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Sketching human scale weaving

minimum amount of people to weave: 7

can maybe build a structure that will help me replace people / make it less dependent on people so there is only one actually weaving? to avoid having a load of people just “staring”.

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Collective garments / unconventional materials for garments / “casing the body”

relationship between space - body - garment / body bridges space and material

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A workshop of social weaving.

task: weave together with waste material in a small size loom.

conclusions:

- not much impact on a social scale, forced conversations; natural tendency to focus on the weaving; individualised activity within the social context.

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A video of the last stage of the process of weaving with onion nets and a DIY loom. 

It aims to show the intuitive process of learning how to weave. An individual approach to weaving with focus on intuitive weaving techniques. Displays minor faults and mistakes which reinforce that idea. 

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“In a small industrial town in Northern India, Panipat, hundreds of antiquated spinning mills recycle old, unwanted clothes from Western countries back into yarn. Unravel follows the clothes on a journey across India, revealing how Western consumption habits are seen on the other side of the globe.

Reshma, a young and perceptive worker in one of these recycling mills, dreams of travelling to the countries the cast off clothes are from. While Reshma and other women work, they construct an image of the West that the clothes spark in their imaginations, and share the rumours that travel with them.”

For full film --> https://aeon.co/videos/this-is-the-final-resting-place-of-your-cast-off-clothing <--